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Zane Grey left Payson in a huff — probably because there weren’t any authentic Italian restaurants. Well, now there is.
By Leah Duran
A placard that reads “Cucina Creativa Italiana” hangs on the wall of Gerardo’s Italian Bistro in Payson. It’s a testament to the innovative Italian dishes offered by Gerardo Moceri, the restaurant’s owner and chef.
“Other people open Italian restaurants, but they’ve never cooked in Italy,” says Moceri, who left his family’s produce business in Detroit at the age of 19 to study in Italy under renowned chef Angelo Paracucchi. From there, he traveled to France, Switzerland and Mexico, learning the specialties of each area.
Today, Moceri brings his worldly influence to the tables at Gerardo’s, which opened in 2000. For example, his appreciation for Asian cuisine inspired his use of Japanese-style panko breadcrumbs in his meatballs, while his time in Hawaii gave rise to his calamari Caesar salad.
Whatever culinary theme imbues his dishes, the staple of fresh ingredients never changes. Goat cheese for his specialty flatbread — an exquisite combination of chicken, basil, roasted red peppers and diced tomatoes drizzled with olive oil — comes from Fossil Creek Creamery, 15 minutes up the road in Strawberry. Tomatoes are shipped from Modesto, California, where Moceri once spent two days in the fields hand-picking the finest specimens.
The staff’s favorite dish, Organic Capellini alla Checca, combines these imported tomatoes with fresh basil and garlic atop a bed of organic whole-wheat capellini sautéed with organic Italian extra virgin olive oil. “We like to toss shrimp and red chile flakes in it,” Moceri says. “It’s a nice dish that’s very light.”
On the heavier side, homemade lasagna baked to order by the slice oozes with ricotta, mozzarella and Romano cheeses. A miniature Italian flag tops off each mouthwatering piece. Of course, for many people, Italian means pizza, and the “Le Pizze” menu allows customers to get creative and style their own pies. Oak wood fires the brick oven where hand-thrown pizza dough bakes to thin, crispy perfection.
For a hands-on creative experience, Moceri offers cooking classes where participants can fashion thick, Sicilian-style pizza and fresh mozzarella cheese. For those who would rather watch the experts, Moceri plans to transform the rear storage section of the restaurant into an exhibition area where customers can observe chefs making pasta in the traditional Italian manner.
Meanwhile, the bar features exclusive wines from Small Vineyards, a Seattle-based company that imports wines from Italy. The labels are decorated with pictures of Moceri’s relatives, echoing the importance of cultural tradition and heritage. The same themes show up in the photographs decorating the restaurant’s mint- and brick-colored walls, and in the patrons themselves, who are treated like family.
“It’s a simple family bistro,” Moceri says. “We take our time.”
Gerardo’s Italian Bistro is located at 512 N. Beeline Highway in Payson. Information: 928-468-6500.
El Rancho, Payson
Arizona is known for its Sonoran-style Mexican food, and in that vein, this list would be incomplete without a couple of real Mexican restaurants. For more than 30 years, El Rancho has been plating some of the Southwest’s finest fare — a fact that’s been noted by the Payson Roundup, which consistently honors the restaurant as having the “best margarita in town” and as being the town’s “best Mexican restaurant.” And it’s no wonder. El Rancho’s menu is stocked with the requisite tacos, chimis and burritos, along with a fine sampling of signature fare, including a bowl of piping hot green chile stew.
El Rancho is located at 200 S. Beeline Highway, Payson. Information: 928-474-3111 or www.elranchorestaurant.net.
House and Homey
Built in 1881, Randall House serves homemade meals in a homey atmosphere that feels a lot like grandma’s house.
By Keridwen Cornelius
In the early 1900s, George and Mary Ellen Randall’s house was the place to go in Pine to socialize over a cup of coffee and indulge in homemade pastries. Fast-forward to today, and Randall House is the place to go in Pine to socialize over a cup of coffee and indulge in homemade pastries.
When Mary Ellen Randall passed away in 1998, it was her wish that her home be turned into a coffeehouse for the community to enjoy. Barbara Frazin-O’Connor and her husband, Patrick O’Connor, granted that wish: They bought and renovated the home, which dates from 1881, continuing its tradition of hospitality.
With its evergreen-trimmed white clapboard, Randall House immediately charms. You can dine alfresco by a giant blue spruce, among the scent of flowers and the chatter of locusts. Or venture inside, which is like eating in an antiques shop.
“It’s a homey atmosphere, with it being Mary Ellen’s home,” Barbara says. “People come in and they feel like they’re in grandma’s house.” The snug dining rooms are painted periwinkle, sea foam and butter, and decorated country-style. The tables might be decked with doilies, wildflowers in a Mason jar, and snowmen-shaped ceramic salt and pepper shakers. Some of the knickknacks are even for sale, including Route 66 memorabilia, mugs and toys.
One of the rooms displays the building’s original log and adobe walls, constructed in 1881 by blacksmith Alfred Jason Randall while his family endured the winter in a covered wagon. Some of the garland-draped windows overlook the original Pine Library, which is about the size of a single-horse stable, and decorated as such.
But just because the setting is atavistic doesn’t mean the food is tired and stodgy. “Everything is made to order,” Barbara says. “We use good quality meats and cheeses, fresh vegetables and fruits. The pastries, dressing and sauces are all homemade.”
You can breakfast on a wild salmon scramble, a wedge of quiche studded with fresh vegetables, or a stack of generously blueberried multigrain pancakes drizzled with maple syrup.
The lunch menu features several salads — including one chock-full of dried cranberries, sun-dried tomatoes, blue cheese and candied pecans. Heartier appetites can choose from numerous burgers, wraps and grilled sandwiches. Even vegetarians and vegans won’t leave hungry, but they will have difficulty deciding between the grilled vegetable wrap, the black-bean burger with avocado salsa, or the balsamic-marinated portobello mushroom burger.
Regardless of the main course, save room for dessert. “We get people who come from the Verde Valley or Fountain Hills just for a piece of pie,” Barbara says. “A lot of our customers have been coming here for years. We see their kids grow up.”
It’s just what Mary Ellen Randall would have wanted.
Randall House is located at 3821 Highway 87 in Pine. Information: 928-476-4077.
Brickman’s Grill, Pinetop
Show up in tennis shoes or a tux — It’s all the same to Bob and Vicki Brickman, who label their friendly operation “casual fine dining.” Factor in the NASCAR memorabilia and comprehensive wine list, and that sounds about right. An eclectic but ultimately American menu offers everything from coconut shrimp to chicken Marsala, the specialties being steak and seafood, including rainbow trout, Alaskan king crab legs and broiled lobster tail. Cozy up to the fireplace in cold weather; head for the patio come summer.
Brickman’s is located at1450 E. White Mountain Boulevard, Pinetop. Information: 928-367-7400 or www.brickmansgrill.com.
Charlie Clark’s Steakhouse, Pinetop
Charlie Clark’s is old — not in the Grand Canyon sense of the word, but old nonetheless. In fact, the two log cabins that currently house this steakhouse were built long before Prohibition. After the nation’s liquor began flowing freely again in the early 1930s, Jake Renfro added on to the original structures and began operating his very own “Famous Log Cabin Café.” Renfro sold the property to Charlie Clark in 1938, and ever since, hand-cut steaks, ribs and prime rib have become staples.
Charlie Clark’s is located at 1701 E. White Mountain Boulevard, Pinetop. Information: 928-367-4900 or www.charlieclarks.com.
Molly Butler, Greer
Molly Butler began offering food and lodging to local ranchers, travelers (and probably outlaws) back in 1910, and the rustic restaurant that bears her name has been operating continuously for nearly 100 years. When the weather’s nice, lunch and dinner are served on the deck overlooking Greer Meadow — where deer, bears and coyotes are often spotted. But this cozy little piece of White Mountains history caters to locals, too, just the way Molly did, keeping them happy with Hot Dang Chili, signature prime rib and Molly’s special steak smothered in creamy Mormon gravy.
Molly Butler’s is located at 109 Main Street, Greer. Information: 928-735-7226 or www.mollybutlerlodge.com.
Rendezvous Diner, Greer
There’s something particularly rustic about life in the White Mountains, and it’s a characteristic that translates well into the local cuisine. Take, for instance, Greer’s Rendezvous Diner. Built in 1909, the quaint little restaurant, which has been in business for a little more than 30 years, is in one of the town’s oldest buildings, and prides itself on down-home, homemade cooking. The simple menu features soups, sandwiches and a slew of just-like-mom-used-to-make desserts, along with chef-owner Pauline Merrill’s famous sweet rolls, meatloaf, and biscuits and gravy.
Rendezvous Diner is located at 117 N. Main Street, Greer. Information: 928-735-7483.
Los Dos Molinos, Springerville
If you have an asbestos-plated palate and profuse head-sweating doesn’t embarrass you, take your heat-seeking self to the original Los Dos, dishing out fiery New Mexico-style Mexican food since 1978. Decorated with cowboy hats and branding irons, this tidy operation is run by Antoinette Chavez (daughter of founder Victoria), who makes everything to her mother’s specs, including signature adovada ribs, chile rellenos and blue- corn enchiladas smothered in red or green chile and topped with a fried egg. Save room for honey-dripped sopapillas, and come summer, ask for fruity house-made sangria.
Los Dos Molinos is located at 900 E. Main Street, Springerville. Information: 928-333-4846 or www.losdosmolinosaz.com.
