SUMMER HIKING GUIDE

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After photography, hiking is the thing most people write, e-mail or call us about. We get it. Hiking is a big deal in the Grand Canyon State. Thus, our annual Summer Hiking Guide. Whether you’re looking for a strenuous trek in the White Mountains or an easy stroll along the Mogollon Rim, Arizona has a trail for everyone. What follows are 12 of our favorites.

Featured in the June 2009 Issue of Arizona Highways

BY: Robert Stieve

1. Florida Canyon Trail
Coronado National Forest: When you see the name of this hike, you might think it has something to do with orange trees, or maybe the Miami Dolphins. It doesn’t. In this case, Florida (pronounced Flo-ree’-da) refers to the Spanish word for “flowered.” Flowers are one of the main attractions along this quiet hike, especially among the riparian seeps and springs that make it so appealing in the summer. As you make your way up into the canyon, the sycamores take center stage, followed by stands of Douglas fir at the head of the canyon, near Florida Saddle. By all means, appreciate the vegetation along the way, but don’t forget to look off into the distance — the views are wide angle. Looking back toward the trailhead, the Santa Cruz Valley and a couple of copper mines can be seen, while up-canyon, the Santa Rita Crest and the summit of Mount Wrightson stand out. Literally. You’ll get an eyeful, for sure. What you won’t see are orange trees and Miami Dolphins.

Directions: From Tucson, take Interstate 19 south to Continental Road/Madera Canyon Road (Exit 63). Go east on Madera Canyon Road for about 7.3 miles to the Forest Road 62 cutoff, then immediately bear right onto Forest Road 62A and continue about 3.6 miles. The Florida Canyon trailhead is on the left, just outside the entrance to the Florida Work Center.
Elevation: 4,340 to 7,800 feet
Distance: 4.6 miles round-trip
Difficulty: Difficult
Information: Nogales Ranger District, 520-281-2296 or www.fs.fed.us/r3/coronado
 

2. Finger Rock Trail
Coronado National Forest: In Tucson, most folks will tell you that this trail’s namesake refers to the Wildcats. Sun Devils and Lumberjacks fans might disagree, but there’s no debate about the landmark itself: It resembles a closed hand with the index finger extended to make a No. 1 sign. The finger, by the way, is 100 feet high. The trail itself is equally impressive. It begins as an easy trek among saguaros and climbs through the Upper Sonoran Zone into a habitat of yucca, live oak and juniper. Along the way, it gets progressively more difficult, especially for those who opt to push themselves and continue past Mount Kimball to Linda Vista Ridge. Most hikers, though, choose Finger Rock Spring as the turnaround point. If you decide to go beyond the spring, pay attention, because the trail gets hard to follow. It’s worth the effort, though — the higher you go, the better the views are. One last thing, the trail leads into the Pusch Ridge Desert Bighorn Sheep Management Area, so dogs aren’t allowed. Wildcats, Sun Devils and Lumberjacks, however, are more than welcome.
Directions: In Tucson, go north on Oracle Road to Ina Road, turn right (east) and drive about a mile to Skyline Road, which branches off to the south (right). Follow Skyline to Alvernon Way and turn left (north) to the trailhead at the end of the pavement.
Elevation: 3,100 to 6,200 feet
Distance: 6.3 miles round-trip
Difficulty: Difficult
Information: Santa Catalina Ranger District, 520-749-8700 or www.fs.fed.us/r3/coronado
 

3. Mount Lemmon Trail
Coronado National Forest: With most mountain hikes, you start at the bottom and work your way to the top. Mount Lemmon is different. It starts near the summit, about a mile from the ski resort of the same name. If you’re a peak-bagger, you’ll essentially get credit for this one as soon as you step out of the car. Initially, the trail follows an access road, but then finds its way to the backcountry and winds down one of the mountain’s most prominent ridges. It’s a rocky route, and it gets steep in some places, most notably among the switchbacks where the trail drops off the high ridge of the Santa Catalina Mountains down toward the Wilderness of Rock. As you’ll see, this trail, which features great views of Pusch Ridge to the west, provides access to several other trails in the area. If you veer off, remember: A good topo map is always a good idea, regardless of whether you’re going up or down a mountain.

Directions: From Tanque Verde Road in Tucson, drive 4.2 miles on Catalina Highway to the forest service boundary and continue 28 miles, past Mount Lemmon Ski Valley, to the power substation on Radio Ridge. Hike west on the trail to a dirt road. Hike down the road to the trail junction.
Elevation: 7,500 to 9,100 feet
Distance: 5.8 miles round-trip
Difficulty: Difficult
Information: Santa Catalina Ranger District, 520-749-8700 or www.fs.fed.us/r3/coronado
 

4. West Baldy Trail
Apache-Sitgreaves National Forests: For peak-baggers in Arizona, Mount Baldy is one leg of the Triple Crown — along with Humphreys Peak and Escudilla Mountain. The first 2 miles of Baldy cut through a series of wide alpine meadows and follow the West Fork of the Little Colorado River, climbing gradually. This is the busiest stretch, but as the trail gets a little tougher, the crowds thin out — the hike won’t kill you, but the altitude does have an effect. After the 2-mile mark, the trail enters a thick forest dominated by spruce, fir and aspen — other than a few small meadows, the trail won’t break out of the timber until the top. From there, it climbs gradually to a series of steep switchbacks, and eventually merges with the East Baldy Trail near the Fort Apache Indian Reservation boundary. The summit of Mount Baldy is on the reservation, and it’s closed to nontribal members. You’ll be tempted to “sneak” to the top; however, this is sacred land, and it should be respected. Trespassers who ignore the boundary are subject to fines and could have their packs confiscated. If you’re a peak-bagger, here’s the good news: The highest point of the ridge isn’t Baldy’s peak (11,403 feet), but an unnamed area (11,420 feet) on Forest Service land to the north.

Directions: From the Eagar stoplight, drive west on State Route 260 for 17.1 miles to State Route 273. Turn left and go south for 7.6 miles. The trailhead is on the right. If SR 273 is closed from its junction at Forest Road 87 to Crescent Lake for road reconstruction, parallel park your vehicle at the junction of FR 87 and SR 273 and follow the temporary three-quarter-mile trail to the trailhead at Sheeps Crossing.
Elevation: 9,000 to 11,200 feet
Distance: 14 miles round-trip (from parking lot at Sheeps Crossing)
Difficulty: Moderate
Information: Springerville Ranger District, 928-333-4372 or www.fs.fed.us/r3/asnf

 


5. Grant Creek Trail
Apache-Sitgreaves National Forests: Grizzly Adams wasn’t filmed here, but it might have been. The flora and fauna along the Grant Creek Trail are reminiscent of John Adams’ stomping ground in the Sierra Nevada. From the lush alpine forests and deep red-rock canyons to the crisscrossing of wildlife, this trail is ideal for anyone in need of a quiet date with Mother Nature. The trail, which is accessed via the Foote Creek Trail near Hannagan Meadow Campground, is one of the main routes between the rim and the floor of Blue River Canyon. It winds through an idyllic forest for the first few miles, and then begins its downward slope. As the gradient steepens, the forest opens up and the panoramas of the Blue River Canyon take your breath away. By the time you catch your breath, those views will be replaced by close-ups of the red rocks that form the canyon walls, along with the box elders, cottonwoods and sycamores that thrive in the moist, sheltered habitat. From this riparian rest area, the trail follows its namesake toward the Blue River. Feel free to hum the Grizzly Adams theme as you make your way.

Directions: From Alpine, drive 23 miles south on U.S. Route 191 to the south end of Hannagan Meadow, turn left (east) onto Forest Road 29A and continue to the Steeple/Foote Creek Trailhead and parking lot. Access the Grant Creek Trail via the Foote Creek Trail.
Elevation: 8,800 to 5,440 feet
Distance: 10 miles round-trip
Difficulty: Difficult
Information: Alpine Ranger District, 928-339-5000 or www.fs.fed.us/r3/asnf
 

6. General Crook Trail
Coconino National Forest: For those of you who live in other parts of the world, there’s a little thing in Arizona called the Mogollon Rim. No one really knows how to pronounce it — Spanish scholars go with “mo-go-yawn,” locals use “muggy-own,” while others simply refer to it as “the Rim.” Whatever you call it, you can’t miss it. Literally. Named for one of the Spanish colonial governors of New Mexico, the Rim stretches diagonally across most of Arizona. Naturally, its precipitous drop-off is the main feature of the General Crook Trail, which follows a historic wagon route that was used in the 1870s and 1880s in General George Crook’s war against the Apaches. The trail itself parallels the Rim for about 25 miles, and the scenery is something special. As Captain George M. Wheeler once wrote: “Mountain, forest, valley and streams are blended in one harmonious whole … few worldwide travelers in a lifetime could be treated to a more perfect landscape, a true virgin solitude, undefiled by the presence of man.” Indeed, that’s why we selected this area for this month’s cover shot. Regardless of the pronunciation, the Mogollon Rim is a sight for sore eyes.

Directions: From Flagstaff, drive approximately 55 miles south on Lake Mary Road (Forest Highway 3) to State Route 87. Go south (right) on SR 87 for approximately 9 miles to Forest Road 300, along which there are several access points. FR 300 is graveled and suitable for passenger vehicles except during winter when it is closed.
Elevation: 7,900 to 7,000 feet
Distance: 25 miles one way
Difficulty: Easy
Information: Mogollon Rim Ranger District, 928-477-2255 or www.fs.fed.us/r3/coconino
 

7. Groom Creek Loop Trail
Prescott National Forest: At one time, Prescott was the capital city of Arizona. There are many reasons it was moved to Phoenix. The Groom Creek Loop wasn’t among them. This challenging trek is one of Prescott’s points of pride. In fact, it’s one of the best trails in the Prescott National Forest. Along with the workout, the loop offers more than its share of scenery, especially from the top of Spruce Mountain, from which you can see Crown King, Prescott and, on a clear day, the San Francisco Peaks. From the trailhead, the loop (which is marked Trail 307) passes through an oak and juniper woodland, and one of the most impressive stands of ponderosa pines in the forest. In all, the trail climbs 1,200 feet over 3 miles through the upper Wolf Creek drainage to the top of Spruce Mountain. From there, the trail heads southwest and follows the South Spruce Ridge for about 1.6 miles to the junction with the Isabella Trail, which connects to Walker Road (pay attention to the trail signs). The loop then begins a long, twisting descent down the mountain to the trailhead, which is just a short drive from one of Prescott’s other points of pride: Whiskey Row.

Directions: In Prescott, take Gurley Street east to Mt. Vernon Avenue (Senator Highway, Forest Road 52). Turn south and drive approximately 6.5 miles to Forest Road 52A at Groom Creek. Continue on FR 52A for 4.5 miles to the picnic area.
Elevation: 6,400 to 7,750 feet
Distance: 8.7-mile loop
Difficulty: Difficult
Information: Bradshaw Ranger District, 928-443-8000 or www.fs.fed.us/r3/prescott
 

8. Sandys Canyon Trail
Coconino National Forest: When it comes to summer hikes, Flagstaff has plenty of bragging rights. Humphreys Peak, the king of the hills in Arizona, is among the many that come to mind. It might be the best hike in the state, but it’s not for everybody. It’s a serious hike. At the other end of the spectrum is the Sandys Canyon Trail, which is located just a few minutes from downtown Flagstaff. The trail begins along the rim of Walnut Canyon — if you look toward the west, you can see Humphreys Peak. After a short trek, the trail drops down Sandys Canyon into the main gorge. From there, it continues along the Walnut Canyon floor on an old jeep track to an intersection with the Arizona Trail. Geology is one of the main features of this hike. In particular, you’ll see a series of petrified Permian Age sand dunes. You might see some horses, as well — a nearby concessionaire offers guided tours into this scenic canyon. Whether you hoof it yourself, or giddyup on Old Paint, Sandys Canyon is yet another trail that Flagstaff can brag about.
Directions: In Flagstaff, go southeast on Lake Mary Road (Forest Highway 3) for 6 miles and turn left onto the road that leads to Canyon Vista Campground. From there, go north for a quarter-mile to the trailhead.
Elevation: 6,950 to 6,820 feet
Distance: 2 miles round-trip
Difficulty: Easy
Information: Peaks/Mormon Lake Ranger Districts, 928-526-0866 or www.fs.fed.us/r3/coconino
 

9. Kendrick Mountain Trail
Kaibab National Forest: There’s a lot of history on this mountain. Two things in particular stand out. The first is just below the 10,418-foot summit. That’s where you’ll see the old lookout cabin, which was built in the early 1900s and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The second dates back to the year 2000. That’s when a devastating fire touched most of the Kendrick Peak Wilderness Area. Fortunately, the recovery process has begun, but it’ll take decades, even centuries, before it’s fully restored. Meantime, a hike to the peak offers a great lesson in ecology. It also offers impressive views of the Grand Canyon to the north and Oak Creek Canyon to the south. In addition, it’s a good place to see wildlife, especially elk and mule deer. The trail itself includes a trek through ponderosa pines and climbs into the mixed conifer forests of Douglas fir, white fir and Engelmann spruce. At the top is the cabin. Check it out, look into the distance and consider this possibility: If people would stop throwing their cigarettes out the window, history would quit repeating itself.

Directions: From Flagstaff, drive northwest on U.S. Route 180 to Forest Road 193, about 10 miles north of the turnoff for Arizona Snowbowl, and turn left (west) onto FR 193. At the end of that road (about 3 miles), make a right onto Forest Road 171 and go 2 miles to Forest Road 190. Turn right onto FR 190 and go 1 mile to the parking area.
Elevation: 7,700 to 10,418 feet
Distance: 8 miles round-trip
Difficulty: Moderate
Information: Williams Ranger District, 928-635-5600 or www.fs.fed.us/r3/kai
 

10. Red Mountain Trail
Coconino National Forest: “Go Big Red.” That’s what Arizona fans were chanting back in February, when the Cardinals played the Steelers in the Super Bowl. About 740,000 years earlier, a volcano erupted 25 miles northwest of Flagstaff. Coincidentally, that was the last time the Cardinals were in the Super Bowl. The eruption formed what is known today as Red Mountain — “Go Big Red” — which is technically a volcanic cinder cone that rises 1,000 feet above the surrounding landscape. The trail is easy and winds through junipers toward a broken rise of cinder and red rocks. The last half-mile of the hike follows a normally dry streambed. The reward at the end is a large natural amphitheater that cuts into the cone’s northeast flank. Erosional pillars, called hoodoos, decorate the amphitheater, and many dark mineral crystals erode from its walls. As you look around, remind yourself that you’re actually standing inside an ancient volcano. It’s an experience almost as rare as watching the Cardinals play in a Super Bowl.

Directions: From Flagstaff, drive northwest on U.S. Route 180 for approximately 25 miles to Milepost 247. Turn left at a large Forest Service sign that announces the Red Mountain Geologic Area. Drive about a quarter-mile on the dirt road to a parking space at the trailhead.
Elevation: 6,800 to 7,200 feet
Distance: Approximately 2.5 miles round-trip
Difficulty: Easy
Information: Peaks/Mormon Lakes Ranger Districts, 928-526-0866 or www.fs.fed.us/r3/coconino
 

11. Sycamore Rim Trail
Kaibab National Forest: People like to poke fun at the 1970s. Bell-bottoms, shag carpeting, 8-tracks … they were out of sight back then, but now, they’re punch lines. Of course, the ’70s produced some gems, too, including the Sycamore Rim Trail, which was proposed in 1975 to protect a unique environment of ponds, streams, cliffs and deep canyons. The route was originally cleared and marked in 1979. Since then, it’s been improved with treadwork over its entire length. About 3 miles from the trailhead, the loop hits the rim of Sycamore Canyon, and continues along the boundary of the Sycamore Wilderness Area. Moving north and west for the second half of the hike, the trail cuts through a ponderosa pine forest that leads to the top of KA Hill, which offers a great look at nearby Garland Prairie. The views are out of sight, man.

Directions: From Flagstaff, go west on Interstate 40 for approximately 25 miles to Garland Prairie Boulevard, Exit 178, turn left and go south on Forest Road 141 for approximately 12 miles to Forest Road 56. Turn right (southeast) onto FR 56 and continue 1.5 miles to the trailhead parking lot.
Elevation: 6,000 to 6,700 feet
Distance: 11 miles round-trip
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
Information: Williams Ranger District, 928-635-5600 or www.fs.fed.us/r3/kai
 

12. Uncle Jim Trail
North Rim, Grand Canyon: “The North and the South.” Mention that to most Americans and they’ll start rattling off names like Gettysburg, Fredericksburg … and maybe even Ken Burns. Here in Arizona, the North and the South are two rims of the Grand Canyon, and they’re very different. Consider the hikes. On the South Rim, the trails are usually crowded. On the North, they’re not. If you prefer the latter, head north to the Uncle Jim Trail, which is named for “Uncle Jim” Owens, a game warden who reportedly killed 500 mountain lions to strengthen the area’s deer population. Like other trails on the North Rim, this one winds through a mix of ponderosa pines, white fir, Douglas fir, blue spruce and quaking aspens. Mule deer are common, too. The first mile of the trail parallels the Ken Patrick Trail, so don’t be confused. As you get rolling, check out the views of Roaring Springs Canyon. They’re incredible. Of course, great views are typical at the North Rim, including those from Uncle Jim Point, which is a great place to sit and contemplate the merits of the two rims. They’re both special, but as you’ll see, the North wins when it comes to solitude.
Directions: From the Grand Canyon Lodge on the North Rim, drive north for 3 miles to the signed right turn for the North Kaibab Trailhead. Uncle Jim shares a trailhead with the North Kaibab Trail.
Elevation: 8,240 to 8,320 feet
Distance: 5 miles round-trip
Difficulty: Easy
Information: Backcountry Office, Grand Canyon National Park, 520-638-7875 or nps.gov/grca