By Kelly Vaughn | Photograph by Steven Meckler
It’s a Tuesday evening in spring, and L.A. Witch is playing at The Quarry Bisbee. The psych-rock band is preparing for a big European tour, in front of crowds that will far outnumber the one here, but the room glitters with tinsel, the queue at the bar is long, and there are plenty of empty plates on the tables that line the perimeter of the room.
That’s because The Quarry’s menu is loaded with chef and owner Dana House’s take on Southwestern comfort food, from smoked Gouda mac and cheese to the Bang Bang BLT, which the menu describes as “an abomination” — adding house ranch (instead of mayonnaise), caramelized onions and avocado to the standard sammie.
Through and through, the food is reflective of Bisbee’s famed quirky vibe.
“Bisbee has a strong pull for certain kinds of people, and I believe this is one of the reasons I moved here seven years ago from San Diego,” House says. “I like to think The Quarry is an excellent representation of Bisbee, in that I’m an artist. My medium is food and harboring creative people through music, performance art and quality entertainment overall. Customers have significant emotional experiences in Bisbee — and [in the restaurant], due to the environment and vibe I set.”
That vibe resonates during Sunday brunches, too, and you won’t be disappointed by the offerings. Think drippy egg sandwiches on House’s soft brioche buns, scratch biscuits with sausage gravy, and eggs Benedict with made-to-order hollandaise.
House sources her ingredients locally as much as possible and feels strongly about customers knowing where their food comes from.
“Americans as a whole are so disconnected from their food supply,” House says. “I’m trying to raise my children and impart knowledge to our customers about where our food actually comes from. In that sentiment, I believe that if you can’t sit under a cattle skull and eat a medium-rare burger without feeling uncomfortable, one may have some re-evaluating to do.”
That said, The Quarry’s craft cocktails — served at brunch, Saturday lunch or daily dinner — require no re-evaluation. If you hit a show on Saturday, a Sunday morning Bloody Mary, garnished with house-made pickled veggies, is the perfect antidote to those late-night-to-early-morning rock ’n’ roll blues.
The Quarry Bisbee is located at 40 Brewery Avenue in Bisbee. For more information, call 520-366-6868 or visit www.facebook.com/thequarrybisbee.