SUMMER HIKING GUIDE 2013

Blobs of congealed lava, petrified Permian Period sand dunes and Vishnu Temple are some of the more unusual things you'll see on the hikes in this month's cover story, and then there's the expected: meadows, mountains and streams. If that's not enough to get you off the couch, we have at least 30 more reasons in the following pages. And that doesn't even include the inspiration you'll get from the photographs. It's one of the easiest hikes on the Coconino National Forest - Coconino, by the way, is the word the Hopis use for Havasupai and Yavapai Indians.

BISMARCK LAKE TRAIL Flagstaff 3 REASONS TO HIT THIS TRAIL

The road to the trailhead passes Hart Prairie Preserve, one of the state's premier Nature Conservancy properties. The views of the San Francisco Peaks are as good as it gets.

FOOT NOTES: Bismarck Lake isn't a lake - at least not by Minnesota standards. It's more like a pond or a lagoon or a big mud puddle, and it functions as a stock tank, which makes it an important source of water for the resident elk and mule deer. It also serves as a milepost that identifies the end of this trail. Like the route into Sandys Canyon (page 24), this is a short hike that hooks up with the Arizona Trail. If you're interested in more distance, the latter extends for 817 miles to the north and south, but if you need a spur-of-the-moment fix of an evergreen forest, this will hit the spot. The trail begins with a gradual uphill climb through a world of ponderosas and aspens. After five minutes, it arrives at a small meadow, where you'll catch your first glimpse of the San Francisco Peaks. It won't be the last, and the best is yet to come. From there, the trail dips back into the woods, and the aspen quotient increases. It stays like that for another 15 minutes, until the dirt path leads to another meadow and the payoff views of the peaks. There, the trail splits. To the right is the Arizona Trail, and to the left is Bismarck Lake. Go left, and keep your eyes peeled for thirsty ungulates.

TRAIL GUIDE

Length: 3 miles round-trip

Difficulty: Easy

Elevation: 8,589 to 8,817 feet

Trailhead GPS: N 35°21.793', W 111°44.082'

Directions: From Flagstaff, drive northeast on U.S. Route 180 for 10 miles to Forest Road 151, turn right and continue 6.3 miles to Forest Road 627. Turn right onto FR 627 and drive 0.75 miles to the trailhead.

Vehicle Requirements: None

Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash)

Horses Allowed: Yes

USGS Map: Humphreys Peak

Information: Flagstaff Ranger District, 928526-0866 or www.fs.usda.gov/coconino

SEE CANYON TRAIL Mogollon Rim 3 REASONS TO HIT THIS TRAIL

The views from the Mogollon Rim stretch as far as Four Peaks near Phoenix.

Water from Christopher Creek, Nappa Spring, Herman Spring and See Spring make the ecosystem lush, green and gorgeous. It's perfect for summer.

Because See Canyon is nestled against the east side of Promontory Butte, summer storms literally dump off the rim above you - beware of lightning.

FOOT NOTES: You can do this the easy way or the hard way. Or you can do it both ways. The hard way (relatively speaking) is to go from the lower trailhead near Christopher Creek to the upper trailhead along Forest Road 300. The easy route goes in reverse, and going both ways speaks for itself. From the bottom, you'll begin by crossing Christopher Creek, and before you've had your first handful of trail mix, you'll arrive at a lush meadow surrounded by old ponderosa pines. A half-mile later, you'll come to a fork. Hang a left and enjoy the scenery. The trail to this point is easy, but after about 2 miles, it begins a steep climb to the top of the Mogollon Rim - this is where "hard" in the "hard way" enters the equation. In addition to the pressure on your lungs and legs, the trail itself can be hard to follow; however, there are cairns and metal tree markers to help guide the way. Take your time, and you'll be OK. Continuing up, you'll start seeing some maples to go with the ponderosas, oaks and aspens. Mint, ferns and grasses grow along the creek. As you'll see, See Canyon is beautiful even the parts that were burned by the Promontory Fire, which was started by a careless human on May 13, 2007, and eventually burned more than 4,000 acres. The final stretch, about the last 15 or 20 minutes, is the toughest part, but it goes quickly, and the views from up on the Rim are well worth all the huffing and puffing.Length: 7 miles round-trip

TRAIL GUIDE

Difficulty: Moderate

Elevation: 6,149 to 7,700 feet

Trailhead GPS: N 34°20.075', W 111°00.362' Directions: From Payson, drive east on State Route 260 for 20.2 miles to the Christopher Creek Loop exit. Turn left onto the loop and drive 1 mile to Forest Road 284. Turn left onto FR 284 and continue 1.5 miles to the trailhead.

Vehicle Requirements: None

Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash)

THE 10 COMMANDMENTS OF HIKING

Horses Allowed: Yes

USGS Map: Promontory Butte

Information: Black Mesa Ranger District, 928-535-7300 or www.fs.usda.gov/asnf

BILL WILLIAMS TRAIL Williams 3 REASONS TO HIT THIS TRAIL

FOOT NOTES: This trail has a tower on top. And like the towers on the Kendrick Mountain, Webb Peak and Vishnu trails, it's worth climb-ing - the views, as George Wharton James wrote in his 1917 book Arizona the Wonderland, “stretch out over a varied panorama, with practically unrestricted vision over a radius of two hundred miles. It is bewildering in its stupendous majesty and uplift-ing in its impressive glory.” But you'll have to do some climbing before you get to that vantage point. The trail begins at the Williams District Ranger Station, about a mile from downtown Williams, and quickly turns into a series of eight switchbacks. They won't take your breath away, but you will know that you're going uphill. The 12 switchbacks at Mile 2 are a different story. Although the work is tougher, the rewards are greater. The pondero-sas are bigger, the spruce are thicker, the aspens seem to quake a little more, the Douglas firs are older, and the ground is covered with ferns, grape-vines and wild roses. Continuing up the switches, the trail crosses paths with the Bixler Saddle Trail and eventually arrives at Forest Road 111, which serves as an access road to the radio towers on top of the mountain. After crossing the road, the trail continues for another half-mile to the top of the mountain and the viewpoint that so impressed George Wharton James.

TRAIL GUIDE

Length: 7 miles round-trip

Difficulty: Moderate

Elevation: 7,000 to 9,256 feet

Trailhead GPS: N 35°14.254', W 112°12.884'

Directions: From downtown Williams, drive west on Railroad Avenue for approximately 1 mile and look for the Williams District Ranger Station sign. Turn left at the sign onto the frontage road and continue approximately 0.5 miles to the ranger station. The trailhead is at the north end of the parking lot.

Vehicle Requirements: None

Dogs Allowed: Yes

Horses Allowed: Yes

USGS Map: Williams South

Information: Williams Ranger District, 928-635-5600 or www.fs.usda.gov/kaibab

KENDRICK MOUNTAIN TRAIL Kaibab National Forest 3 REASONS TO HIT THIS TRAIL

The Kendrick Mountain Wilderness is home to Mexican spotted owls, which are on the list of threatened species.

From the fire tower, you can see the Grand Canyon to the north and Oak Creek Canyon to the south.

For peak-baggers, Kendrick Mountain is No. 10 on Arizona's list of highest peaks.

FOOT NOTES: On May 24, 2000, Mother Nature tossed a bolt of lightning at a small ponderosa pine southwest of Kendrick Mountain. That was the first tree to go in the Pumpkin Fire, whichultimately wiped out 14,760 acres on the north side of the mountain. You'll see ample signs of the blaze on this trail, but it's still a great hike. It begins as a wide path surrounded by ponderosas, and about 45 minutes in, it arrives at a saddle, which offers a glimpse of the peak. From there, the trail zigzags up a narrow route, past an intersection with the Bull

TRAIL GUIDE

Length: 8 miles round-trip

Difficulty: Moderate

Elevation: 7,678 to 10,418 feet

Trailhead GPS: N 35°23.214', W 111°52.056'

Directions: From Flagstaff, drive northwest on U.S. Route 180 for 17.2 miles to Forest Road 193. Turn left onto FR 193 and drive 3.2 miles to Forest Road 171. Turn right onto FR 171 and drive 2 miles to Forest Road 190. Turn right onto FR 190 and continue approximately 0.4 miles to the trailhead.

Vehicle Requirements: None

Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash)

Horses Allowed: Yes

USGS Maps: Kendrick Peak, Moritz Ridge

Information: Williams Ranger District, 928-635-5600 or www.fs.usda.gov/kaibab

WEBB PEAK TRAIL Mount Graham 3 REASONS TO HIT THIS TRAIL

Basin Trail, and on to the summit ridge, where Douglas firs, Engelmann spruce and white firs enter the picture. Another thing you'll see on the ridge is the Kendrick Lookout Cabin. The structure, which was built in 1917 and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places,was protected during the Pumpkin Fire with a fire blanket - imagine a backyard storage shed wrapped in aluminum foil. Hats off to the hotshot crews who saved it. From the old cabin, a short series of switchbacks leads to the summit and the mountain's lookout tower.

FOOTNOTES: Of all the peaks to be bagged in Arizona, Webb Peak might be the easiest. From the trailhead, which is located next to the horse corrals at the Columbine here are two trails located at this beautiful site in the Kaibab National Forest. One is a short, paved loop (0.25 miles) that's wheelchair accessible, and the other is a longer loop (1.5

KENDRICK PARK WATCHABLE WILDLIFE TRAILS

miles) that's made of smooth dirt. Both are easy and feature interpretive signs, which add an educational element to the experience. In addition, the park sits at an elevation of 7,900 feet and bridges the habitats of forest and grassland, making it an ideal place to see northern flickers, red-tailed hawks, mule deer, porcupines, pronghorns, elk, Abert's squirrels, badgers and coyotes.

drive northwest on State Route 180 for approximately 20 miles to Milepost 235.5 and turn left into the parking lot.

INFORMATION: Williams Ranger District, 928-635-5600 or www. fs.usda.gov/kaibab

Visitors Center, it takes only 30 minutes to reach the summit. And the hiking itself is moderate. The uphill climb begins immediately with switchbacks that zigzag through ponderosas, aspens, spruce and firs. After about 10 minutes, you'll see signs of an old fire, along with extensive beds of ferns and a massive boulder the size of Grizzly Adams' cabin. The trail levels momentarily, then arrives at what might be the most impressive Douglas fir on the Coronado National Forest. Just beyond the big tree, the trail splits. To the left is a short spur that leads to the summit, and to the right is the continuation of the Webb Peak Trail, which goes downhill to Ash Creek. You'll come back to the intersection, but first make the fiveminute climb to the summit, where a fire tower will take you even higher than the peak's 10,029 feet. Take a few photos and then head back to the Webb Peak Trail, which switchbacks through a lush forest with hillside meadows covered in grasses and ferns. After 1.7 miles, you'll arrive at Ash Creek and a trail of the same name. Turn right, and follow the wooded trail for a half-mile back to the corrals.

TRAIL GUIDE

Length: 3.2 miles round-trip Difficulty: Moderate Elevation: 9,500 to 10,029 feet Trailhead GPS: N 35°38.701', W 111°86.827' Directions: From Safford, drive south on U.S. Route 191 for 7.3 miles to State Route 366 (the Swift Trail). Turn right onto SR 366 and drive 28.6 miles to the trailhead, which is located at the corrals just beyond the Columbine Visitors Center. Vehicle Requirements: None Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash) Horses Allowed: Yes USGS Map: Webb Peak Information: Safford Ranger District, 928-4284150 or www.fs.usda.gov/coronado

HOUSTON BROTHERS TRAIL Mogollon Rim

Arizona. The views to the south are superb. The Mogollon Rim is home to the FOOTNOTES: Ranching is one of the last things that'll come to mind on the Houston Brothers Trail. Nevertheless, that's what the boys did for a living. They raised cattle, and they used this route to move their livestock from one range to another. The U.S. Forest Service used the trail, too, as a way of getting rangers to the isolated cabins they called home during fire season. Today, the trail is used primarily by hikers who appreciate the natural beauty of the Mogollon Rim and its combination of dense forests and scattered meadows. From the southern trailhead (there's a counterpart 7 miles to the north), the rocky path winds through a woodland of ponderosa pines, spruce, oaks and aspens for about 20 minutes, then begins a descent down a lush, fern-lined hillside where maples come to life. Imagine Robert Frost. A half-hour later, the trail intersects with the Barbershop Trail and continues

north to the bottom of Houston Draw, a picturesque little valley through which a spring-fed perennial stream flows. With the exception of a few rock outcroppings, things remain the same (Frost-like) to the trail's end. It's a long hike, but if you're short on time, go with friends and use a car-shuttle system: Take two cars, park at different trailheads and trade keys when you meet in the middle.

TRAIL GUIDE

Length: 14 miles round-trip

Difficulty: Moderate

Elevation: 7,732 to 7,074 feet

Trailhead GPS: N 34°25.153', W 111°12.962'

Directions: From Payson, drive north on State Route 87 for 28.5 miles to Forest Road 300. Turn right onto FR 300 and drive 16.1 miles to the trailhead on the left. The dirt parking lot is located approximately 100 yards beyond the trailhead on the right.

Vehicle Requirements: None

Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash)

Horses Allowed: Yes

USGS Maps: Blue Ridge Reservoir, Dane Canyon

Information: Mogollon Rim Ranger District, 928-477-2255 or www.fs.usda.gov/coconino

SANDYS CANYON TRAIL Flagstaff 3 REASONS TO HIT THIS TRAIL

FOOT NOTES: The petrified Permian Period sand dunes on this short hike will end up in your long-term memory. They stand out, but they're not the only highlight. The views of the San Francisco Peaks are pretty incredible, too. You'll get your first glimpse of the mountains a few minutes into the hike - just past the side trail that short-cuts to a rock-climbing area. From there, the wide dirt path winds through an open ponderosa forest along the rim of Walnut Canyon. After about

24 JUNE 2013

Vehicle Requirements: None Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash) Horses Allowed: Yes USGS Maps: Lakeside, 256 NW Information: Lakeside Ranger District, 928-368-2100 or www.fs.usda.gov/asnf

O'LEARY PEAK TRAIL Coconino National Forest 3 REASONS TO HIT THIS TRAIL

O'Leary Peak is the highest of the dormant volcanoes in the San Francisco Peaks Volcanic Field, and it's the 42nd-highest peak in Arizona.

The trailhead is located at the O'Leary Group Campground, so you can make a night of it if you have a big group of friends.

The easy-to-follow trail passes the Bonito Lava Flow, which erupted from the northwest base of Sunset Crater Volcano and pooled to as much as 100 feet deep over a 2-square-mile area.

FOOT NOTES: O'Leary Peak is a lava-dome volcano, not a cinder cone like Sunset Crater Volcano, its better-known counter-part to the south. Here's the difference: Cinder cones are created from particles and blobs of congealed lava ejected from a single vent, while lava domes are formed by relatively small, bulbous masses of lava too viscous to flow any great distance. Consequently, on extrusion, the lava piles over and around the vent of a lava dome. There won't be a quiz on this later, but it's something to think about as you make your way up to O'Leary Peak. The trail begins near O'Leary Group Campground and follows an old forest road all the way to the top. It's a gradual climb that initially skirts the Bonito Lava Flow before heading north through a forest of ponderosas and aspens. After about 2 miles, the road gets steeper and features a handful of switchbacks that lead to a saddle between O'Leary Peak and Darton Dome. The views from the saddle, which sits at an elevation of 8,000feet, are spectacular, but they're even better from the lookout tower at the peak. From the top, you can see into Sunset Crater. You also can see the Inner Basin of the San Francisco Peaks and the North Rim of the Grand Canyon.

TRAIL GUIDE

Length: 10 miles round-trip Difficulty: Moderate Elevation: 6,846 to 8,916 feet Trailhead GPS: N 35°22.315', W 111°32.467' Directions: From downtown Flagstaff, drive north on U.S. Route 89 for 15.7 miles to Forest Road 545 (the road to Sunset Crater Volcano-Wupatki National Monument). Turn right onto FR 545 and drive 1.7 miles to Forest Road 545A. Turn left onto FR 545A and drive 0.3 miles to the trailhead, which is located at the O'Leary Group Campground.

Vehicle Requirements: None Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash) Horses Allowed: Yes USGS Map: O'Leary Peak Information: Flagstaff Ranger District, 928-526-0866 or www.fs.usda.gov/coconino

NATIONAL TRAILS DAY

On June 1, 2013, the American Hiking Society will celebrate its 21st annual National Trails Day. It's one more reason to get outside and experience the beauty of Arizona. To learn more about what's happening in your neck of the woods, visit www.americanhiking.org.

VISHNU TRAIL Grand Canyon, South Rim 3 REASONS TO HIT THIS TRAIL

FOOT NOTES: You don't have to be stand-ing on the South Rim to get a South Rim viewpoint of the Grand Canyon. The look to the north from the Coconino Rim is one of the very best. And best of all, you don't have to share it with the 4.5 million people who take a gander from in front of El Tovar every year.

Another bonus is the 15-mile scenic drive through the Kaibab National Forest to the trailhead, which is located in the shadow of the Grandview Fire Tower. The tower is appropriately named, and you'll want to climb up. From the tower, the trail heads north through a healthy stand of oaks and ponderosas. It can be tricky to follow in places, but it's marked with cairns. After about 5 minutes, you'll get your first glimpse of the Canyon. “Wow” will cross your lips, and then, a few minutes later, the views get even bet-ter as Vishnu Temple enters the picture. After about 20 minutes, the trail leads to a barbed-wire fence. Keep left, and take note of the distant views to the east. The plateau that feeds the South Rim is vast and impressive. A few more footsteps will take you to the final lookout, where a wooden bench awaits. Park yourself, enjoy the views and be grateful for the solitude you'll surely be experiencing.

TRAIL GUIDE

Length: 1.1-mile loop Difficulty: Easy Elevation: 7,512 to 7,607 feet Trailhead GPS: N 35°57.445', W 111°57.294' Directions: From the roundabout at the south end of U.S. Route 180 in Tusayan, drive east on Forest Road 302 for 14.2 miles to Forest Road 310. Turn left onto FR 310 and continue 1.4 miles to the trailhead on the left. Vehicle Requirements: None Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash) Horses Allowed: Yes USGS Maps: Tusayan East, Grandview Point Information: Williams Ranger District, 928635-5600 or www.fs.usda.gov/kaibab