In Time's Laboratory

In Time's Laboratory History of Mother Earth Is Written On Walls of Grand Canyon, the World's Unexcelled Spectacle

HERE is only one thing in the world that could make one feel more insignificant than an attempt to describe the Grand Canyon of Northern Arizona, and that is to stand on the rim of the chasm. It is the unexcelled spectacle of the world. It suddenly comes to view below the surface of a plateau-like country, appearing as though the earth's crust had severed into a frightful abyss. The most impressive thing about this gorge is its vastness. Its depth is fearful and inconceiveable; its everchanging colors delicate and profound. The canyon's dominant characteristic, or it may be called personality or spirit, is a mysterious reflection which always compels the observer to an attitude of meditation. It is at once enigmatical and understandable; the riddle of its creation is not entirely answerable, its moods are unpredictable and infinite; yet on its walls the geologic history of the earth is defineable in the almost horizontal strata, the folds, and the fossil imprints. From the brink, the Colorado River streaks only briefly to view on its threatening journey through hard crystalline walls of Archean rock, the deep est deposit in the canyon and the oldest exposed formation in the world. These rocks were laid down probably fifteen hundred million years ago before animal or plant life existed. Above them, variegated layers of sandstone, limestone, and shale jut into promontories, peninsulas, and plateaus. Their summits are crowned with statuesque minerets, turrets, and citadels.

The Grand Canyon is the world's greatest example of erosion; although other processes were important in its history. Four times, geologists tell us, the whole intermountain area was inundated. The canyon rocks were anciently laid down in these waters as sand, mud, and lime substance. During the millenniums, great crustal movements of the earth submerged them. Four different times subterranean forces slowly thrust them up again while time and the great weight above them hardened the layers. Lime and silica they contained cemented them together and they became layers of what scientists call sedimentary rock. The last great upthrust prepared them for the cutting and carving of the Colorado River. The rushing waters were assisted by chemical processes, gravity, and the elements, in modeling the architectural forms of the gorge. Faulting shattered the earth's surface creating box-like canyons and crevices. Today, erosion and these various agents slowly but persistantly sculpture the landscape.

In the far western end of the park is Havasu Canyon. Here, in a place of unusual beauty, rarely visited, is the Havasupai Indian Reservation. Some of the nomadic Navajo Indians find homes in the park, and the Hopis, each evening give a series of dances for visitors. These are conducted at Hopi House on the south rim, This pueblo dwelling is a type of characteristic Indian architecture. Drives along the south rim cover nearly 35 miles of excellent highways. One may travel by motor bus, or personal car. Westward is Hermit's Rest, a cobblestone rustic cliff house, partly carved into solidrock. It is one of America's finest examples of hidden architecture. Hopi, Powell, Mohave, and Pima Points afford unrivalled views of the canyon, On the route eastward is Yavapai Observation Station, with a museum of maps, charts and models. Fixed telescopes extend the vision to places about the canyon walls where impressions of marine shells, seaweeds, shellfish, and worm trails are identifiable. The different rock formations are made clearly visible. Farther through the forest is Yake, Moran, and Lipan Points, and the Wayside Museum of Archeology. At Desert View is the Hopi observation tower, a fascinating structure built of native stone. Here telescopes permit views of the Painted Desert and a panorama of the Kaibab National Forest on the north rim.

Visitors at the north rim may see in one day, by auto, Point Imperial, Fairview, and Cape Royal. Roads are good during the summer season. Those charming drives wind through dense forests of pine, fir, spruce, and aspen. Gentle deer, from the great herds that are frequently seen to dart thru the woods, (Continued on Page 22)