Old Maricopa Wells

By JAMES M. BARNEY (Continued From Last Month) W WHEN the Confederate forces invaded Arizona during the Civil War, and penetrated into the interior as far as the Pima Villages, and even beyond. Mr. White's mill was already constructed and had been in operation for some time. When the Southern leaders reached the place, they found the mill grinding out flour, of which Mr. White had a large quantity on hand, while his storehouses were filled with grain, corn, and other products raised by the Indians on the nearby reservation. The Confederates immediately confiscated Mr. White's property and supplies, alleging that the latter had been purchased and stored for the use of the California Volunteers, who were then marching up the Gila to give battle to the invaders. Mr. White was taken prisoner by the Confederates and sent under an escort to thevinced that his arrest and detention had been illegal, to seek his immediate relase by Habeas Corpus proceedings. Soon after Mr. Bashford's arrival at Tucson, Mr. White was released, having been restrained of his liberty for about two years.

After the abandonment of Maricopa Wells by the stage company that had constructed the station, John B. (Pie) Allen, widely known resident of Southern Arizona, took up the Maricopa Wells site in the following notice, which he filed with the U. S. Surveyor-General of Arizona, and is now in the records of that office: "The Surveyor-General of Arizona is hereby notified that in pursuance of law, I, John B. Allen, of the First Judicial District, in the Territory of Arizona, having pre-empted a tract of land containing one hundred and sixty (160) acres, lying about two miles west of the northwest corner of the Pima and Maricopa Reservation and includes what is known and designated as the 'Maricopa Well'. JOHN B. ALLEN."

"Tucson, July 27, 1864."

When Mr. Allen pre-empted the Maricopa Wells site, he repaired buildings and corrals and made other improvements of a substantial character about the place. Here he established a store and grain station and carried on an ex-tensive trade with the nearby Indian farmers. In a biographical sketch of Colonel James M. Barney, which appears in "California Biography", by Alonzo Phelps, 1882, the following information is found:

"Arriving at Fort Yuma (April, 1865),

Army base at Tucson. About April, 1862, the Southern forces, failing to receive proper support from their military department, commenced their famous retreat through Arizona, New Mexico, and on into Texas. In the meantime, Mr. White languished in confinement, being unable to obtain his liberty even after the California Volunteers had reached Tucson. On February 1, 1864, Governor Goodwin made his first official appoint-ment for Arizona, naming Coles Bashford as Attorney-General of the Territory, and, upon the same day, he addressed a letter to the newly-appointed official, requesting him to investigate carefully the case of Mr. White and, if he became con-he (James M. Barney) at once took a contract to transport supplies to the suffering military at Tubac, three hundred and fifty miles across the Territory, uninhabited by whites save at Maricopa Wells-one hundred and seventy-five miles from Yuma-where J. B. Allen had a grain station, and, a few miles farther on, where a primitive flouring mill was located, and at Tucson, twohundred and seventy-five miles from Yuma."

farther on, where a primitive flouring mill was located, and at Tucson, two hundred and seventy-five miles from Yuma."

In 1867, Allen sold out his interests at Maricopa Wells to George F. Hooper and Co. of Arizona City, now Yuma. The rich and influential Yuma concern took over the old station and erected extensive store-houses, work-shops, stables, and corrals; and, as all travellers coming to or passing through the Territory could hardly avoid visiting The Wells, it soon became a favorite stopping place for notable and prominent citizens touring Arizona, and much of its early history was there made. As it was the most important branch of Hooper and Company, Colonel James M. Barney, one of the partners, took special charge of the business and devoted his chief attention to it for several years. The branch store at The Wells was heavily stocked and great quantities of grain were purchased from the nearby Indian wheat-growers. Colonel Barney laid out and opened to travel a road direct from the Gila, opposite Florence, to Camp McDowell, and so gave a market to the white settlers of that section. He established hostelries or stations, at intervals, along the 175 miles of dreary and desolate road between Yuma and The Wells to facilitate the movement of persons, mail and government freight.

In 1867, a mail line was again established along the old Butterfield or southern route, and service inaugurated from Western Texas to Los Angeles, California. The service was made tri-weekly and supplied a long-felt want in Arizona. Thus, after some six years of disuse, ex-cept by freight and emigrant trains, the the southern overland road once again became an important postal highway of the country. And with the renewed activity came good times and prosperity to Maricopa Wells.

In 1870, Maricopa Wells came into the possession of James A. Moore and Larkin W. Carr, by purchase from the Yuma owners. The new proprietors continuedto operate a large store at the place, Well stocked with goods of every kind; nearby was a good well of water which never dried; while around the station, as has already been stated, was a grassy valley covered with considerable mesquite timber. Before the coming of the rail road, scores of freighting trains were always encamped around the station, re pairing wagons and making ready, in general, for the road.

By the time the Salt River Settlements had become fairly well established, Maricopa Wells had grown into a place of great activity and importance, being the largest stage station on the road between Tucson and Arizona City. There was a good wagon road from Phoenix to The Wells, along which, before reaching the Gila, the traveller had a good view of the Maricopa Indian Village and also passed Henry Morgan's trading post and then crossed the Gila on his ferry.

From Maricopa Wells a good view was had of the stone face on the south western end of what was called Maricopa Mountain, which looked very much like the face and head of an Indian, and which the Pimas believed was a profile of their God, whom they called "Monte zuma". When the water became scarce in the Gila River, and a shortage in their crops of wheat, corn, and pumpkins seemed imminent, these Indians were accustomed to beseech this God to send rain and snow that the Gila might again fill up and enable them to raise plenty of corn and vegetables.

On the overland road, as one neared the station-coming from the west-a still better view could be obtained of this interesting profile of stone, and Mrs. Clif ford, in her "Overland Tales", speaks of it in the following beautiful words: "Among the most beautiful of all the legends told here, is that concerning this face. It is Montezuma's face, so the Indians believe (even those in Mex ico, who have never seen the image), and he will awaken from his long sleep some day, will gather all the brave and faithful around him, raise and uplift his downtrodden people, and restore to his kingdom the old power and the old glory, as it was before the Hidalgos invaded it. So strong in this belief in some parts of Mexico, that people who passed through that country years ago tell me of some localities where fires are kept constantly burning, in anticipation of Montezuma's early coming. It looks as though the stern face up there was just a little softened in its expression by the deep slumber that holds the eyelids over the commanding eye; and all nature seemed hushed into deathlike stillness.

ARIZONA HIGHWAYS

Day after day, year after year, century after century, slumbers the man up there on the height, and life and vegetation sleep on the arid plains below-a slumber never disturbed, a sleep never broken -for the battle cry of Yuma, Pima, and Maricopa, that once rang at the foot of the mountain, did not reach Montezuma's ear; and the dying shrieks of the children of those who came from far over the seas to rob him of his scepter and crown, fall unheeded on the rocks and the deserts that guard his sleep."

In January, 1870, a mail route was established "from Maricopa Wells to Phoenix," which was a source of great benefit to the residents of the Salt River Valley, as it gave the mail communication between Phoenix and the east and west, via the overland stages which passed by the station on regular schedules.

When in 1874-a telegraph system was established throughout Arizona, Maricopa Wells became one of the main branch offices, while the U. S. Customs Service also maintained an official representative at this centrally located point.

Charles M. Clark (who first passed through Yuma on November 13, 1874) and Sergeant Gearhart were among the operators stationed at Maricopa Wells at one time or another. Henry McWard was the first deputy collector of customs; he died in the month of February, 1870, and was succeeded by Alexander McKey. The latter was an uncle of the Kirkland brothers, Brent, Frank, Ed and Jake early settlers in Arizona, of whom Jake, for many years connected with the U. S. Indian Service, is now the only survivor. Ed Kirkland was the last territorial treasurer of Arizona. McKey came to Arizona in 1863, and was a member of the house in the second and a member of the council in the third and fourth territorial legislatures, from Yuma County; in the fifth legislative session he was a member of the Coun cil from Pima County. While Alexander McKey, a very early settler in Arizona, was for a while the U. S. Customs Inspector there. Mr. E. O. Stratton of Tucson, was, for a time, book-keeper for Carr & Moore. He died at San Francisco, California, on August 16, 1925. His daughter-Mrs. George F. Kitt-is the present secretary of the Arizona Pioneers' Historical Society at Tucson. Charlie Naylor, of Yuma, was also a later resident at the old station, and moved to California when the place was given up as a business center.

Santiago, a Papago Indian, chore-man at The Wells, was one of the best-knowncharacters around the station. It was his duty to clean up the grounds near the buildings-fill the ollas and barrels with drinking water-gather firewood and perform other tasks of a similar nature. His squaw was called Tonica by the white folks thereabouts.

JULY, 1936

characters around the station. It was his duty to clean up the grounds near the buildings-fill the ollas and barrels with drinking water-gather firewood and perform other tasks of a similar na ture. His squaw was called Tonica by the white folks thereabouts.

The partnership between Carr and Moore was later dissolved, Mr. Moore retaining possession and selling out in 1878 to Aaron Barnett and Ben Block, early Phoenix merchants. Upon the building of the Southern Pacific Railroad, the prestige and importance of Maricopa Wells diminished, and when in 1887-a branch railroad connected Phoenix with the Southern Pacific at Maricopa Junction, it was gradually abandoned.

A mass of shapeless adobe ruins overgrown with desert shrubs and trees -now mark the spot where Maricopa Wells once flourished in the days of long ago; its name brings but a fleeting memory of its one-time greatness to a few of the very oldest residents, who once partook of the shelter and hospitality of the memorable old station which-in a past that has long since vanished-represented the very heart of social and business activity in the Territory of Arizona.

James Armor Moore, whose name is inseparably linked with the story of Maricopa Wells, was one of the earliest settlers of Arizona, and it is well to make, at this time, a brief record of his activities during the years that he resided in this Territory. He was a native of Portsmouth, England, where he was born on April 19, 1825, the second of four sons. While yet but a youth, he took to the sea and followed the business of whaling, reaching the position of captain in that rough and dangerous calling. He came to California by way of Panama and arrived in San Francisco about the year 1860. After a short experience in the mining camps of Central California, he located, during the following year, at San Bernardino, in the southern part of the state. At that time, San Bernardino was the center of much business activity and a sort of terminus for overland stage and freight lines from Arizona and points farther east. At San Bernardino he conducted a meat market, and in 1861 married Matilda Crampton, a native of North Carolina, where she was born on August 10, 1834. Hearing of rich mineral discoveries in Western Arizona-La Paz and Vulture he started, accompanied by his older brother, Horace, for that region.

When the Moores started for Arizona they brought with them a band of horses, then commanding good prices, which they disposed of at a profit upon reaching this Territory. After their horses had been sold the older brother returned to California, but James A. remained in Arizona and threw in his lot with Henry Wickenburg, then located on the Hassayampa, just below the present town that still bears his name, and who was engaged at the time in the development of the great Vulture mine.

JULY, 1936 ARIZONA HIGHWAYS 17

then commanding good prices, which they disposed of at a profit upon reaching this Territory. After their horses had been sold the older brother returned to California, but James A. remained in Arizona and threw in his lot with Henry Wickenburg, then located on the Hassayampa, just below the present town that still bears his name, and who was engaged at the time in the development of the great Vulture mine.

Mr. Moore enjoyed the distinction of having hauled, in the year 1864, the first wagon load of flour from the south to the north side of the Gilia river from White's flour mill at Casa Blanca to some of the mining camps beyond Wickenburg. An incident occurring on this trip was later described in the territorial press by John M. Marion, one of his companions, as follows: "Now, this Mr. Moore was an old friend of ours, whom we met at Wickenburg early in 1864, and, in company with whom, while he was engaged in hauling the first wagon load of flour that was ever brought from the south to the north of the Gila, we one night went through the Canyon of the Hassayampa under the following drawbacks: Indians skulking around us, but afraid to attack; team played out, when Mr. Moore, Joe Green (since killed by an Apache at Camp McDowell), and one other man set to work and packed the flour, sack by sack, to the top of a big hill, to which we 'coaxed' the team, when the flour was reloaded, and we set out for Weaver."

When Camp McDowell was established in 1865, Mr. Moore went there and took charge of the Sutler's store, which was owned at that time by George F. Hooper and James M. Barney, of Yuma. In 1867, upon the establishment of Camp Reno as an auxiliary military post to Camp McDowell, Mr. Moore, acting for his employers, opened a branch store there and placed Captain William A. Hancock in charge, with George Mowry as assistant. Not long after, in company with Larkin W. Carr, he bought out the Hooper-Barney interests at McDowell and Reno and conducted those enterprises until 1869, when he and his partner sold out to William B. Hellings, later a prominent merchant of the Salt River Valley. In 1870, Moore and Carr bought Maricopa Wells, and operated it as partners until 1878, when Moore bought out Carr's interest.

About June, 1870, Mr. Moore became postmaster at Maricopa Wells, while in February, 1872, the partners purchased that portion of John G. Capron's stage line-mail and passenger-running between Tucson and Arizona City, agreeing at the time to carry out all existing mail contracts held by the former owner. Being located about the center of the line, with well equipped wagon and blacksmith shops of their own, they were enabled to run it at much less expense than their predecessor. Both Carr and Moore were fine men and did everything in their power to give satisfaction by furnishing ample accommodations for travellers and by carrying the mails with regularity, while their station at The Wells was a model of convenience.

After disposing of his interests at Maricopa Wells to Barnett & Block, Mr. Moore was employed for a number of years at the Silver King Mine, Pinal County, then under the control of Colonel James M. Barney, of Yuma. While stopping for a brief visit at Yuma, he was taken seriously ill and went to Los Angeles, California, for medical attention, which, however, gave him no relief.

He left the hospital at Los Angeles and took the train for San Francisco where, upon arrival, he sought the advice and help of physicians. But no improvement in his health took place and he passed away at the coast city in the year 1883.

Mr. Moore was laid to rest in Laurel Hill Cemetery, one of the older burial grounds in San Francisco, alongside of his son-in-law, Henry S. Fitzgerald, another pioneer of Arizona, who had died on June 23, 1880 The widow of Mr. Moore spent the latter part of her life at Globe, in this state, where her daughter, Mrs. Kenyon, and a son, John F. Crampton who came to Arizona on April 25, 1866-had made their homes for years. Her death occurred at that place on February 7, 1899, and eight years later Charlie Kenyon, notable and widely known Arizonan, also passed on into that silent and mysterious realm from whence no traveller ever returns.

The pioneers of Arizona are no more, but the result of their labors and their sacrifices are everywhere evident in our prosperous commonwealth of today, which owes its very existence to those fearless trail-blazers of the '60's-the years of danger and romance in the story of Arizona.

A TRIBUTE TO 'OLD BILL'

(Continued From Page 9) was identified by Edwards. Each grave was given a blanket of white quartz and a giant cactus was transplanted along side to stand guard. Weeds cleared, and a substantial fence built, Edwards, assisted by his crew

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After the date of his birth, this last wish of William Bear. And his remains came to rest beside his wife whom he had mourned for twenty-nine years.

These men who helped to fulfill this last request had his body exhumed from the Yuma cemetery and brought to Harrisburg.

As the sun sent its last brilliant rays out over the desert hills, Old Bill's body, resting in a plain silver casket, was strapped to the packsaddle of a mountain burro. Following in double file came ten grizzled prospectors, their grey heads bowed, their steps hesitant as they paid their last respects to a picturesque Arizona pioneer.

These honorary pallbearers were Jim Collins, "Kid" Davis, Harry Myart, Pete Navarez, Jimmy Wilson, Dutch Kriss, Jack Fleming, Archie Campbell, "Six Shooter" Smith, the lone survivor of Harrisburg, and Chappo, a Yaqui Indian, whose years number more than one hundred.

The service was as Old Bill would have liked it. The Rev. Henshaw, in the simple language of the west, welcomed Bill Bear "back home." Taps, that might have been echoes out of the past, broke the quiet of the evening time. Purple shadows gathered over the desert and the casket was lowered into a freshly dug grave.

Many are the legends told of Harrisburg. And all of them have firm believers.

One is that hostile Indians attacked a small train of emigrants on their way to California in the days of '49, killing three people. In the haste to escape, these three were left and buried at the Harrisburg water hole by another group of emigrants that followed.

Another states that three prospectors who were getting too close to the gold secrets of the Harquahalas, were slain by Indians and were the first to be buried at Harrisburg.

Still another relates a story of gold seekers in covered wagons who perished of thirst and were buried there.

But Harrisburg's history was not set down on paper by its early inhabitants and today we have only a graveyard and across the wash a few crumbling adobe walls-reminders of the turbulent days of the old west.

J. L. EDWARDS HIGHWAY MAINTENANCE MAN whose hobby is the preservation of historic spots, is shown beside the Harrisburg cemetery monument which he built. Harrisburg is named for Capt. Charles Harris, Canadian, who served in the U. S. Regulars in the Civil War. He. with Governor Tritle, started the town in 1886. They packed a five-stamp mill from Prescott and operated on ores from the Socorro mine.

of fellow workers, utilizing their spare time and money, built a monument.

Unique in design, constructed of white quartz flecked with gold from the Northern Yuma County mines, it stands more than six feet high with a four and one half foot square top. Black mortar having been used with the quartz. On the top in silhouette against the blue of Arizona skies stands a covered wagon, its body of copper with cover of suver, forged in the Phoenix shop of the Highway Department.

A tablet of copper, cut in the shape of the state of Arizona, bears this inscription: "Harrisburg Cemetery. In rememberance of the pioneers who gave their lives to the development of the West. Arizona Highway Department, 1936."

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