TAKING THE OFF-RAMP

Touting Tucson

Back in 1887, potential travelers to the Arizona Territory asked the Arizona Daily Citizen, a Tucson newspaper, for information on that frontier city. A healthy environment took the top position in the paper's idea of selling points. "There are no distinctively local diseases," the newspaper proudly informed all would-be visitors. "The air is neither bracing nor depressing," they assured all. They did warn of occasional sandstorms from the California deserts, but also noted that building a shelter would be inexpensive when using adobe or brick. On such slim pickings, a city and a tourist industry can be built.

Bed, Breakfast and Birds

Birdwatchers flock to Madera Canyon in southern Arizona for some of the best birding in the United States. There's a newplace to stay while exploring the avian wonderland. Chuparosa Inn, at the base of Mount Wrightson on Madera Creek, combines rustic elegance with cozy charm. Three suites-the Hummingbird Suite, the Bird Nest and the Cowboy Room-include private baths and kitchenettes. A gourmet breakfast greets guests in the morning. Hiking trails lead through the rich riparian habitat where bird lovers can catch a glimpse of the more than 200 bird species. Information: (520) 393-7370; www.chuparosainn.com.

LIFE IN ARIZONA 1 9 9 0 s MICHAEL MOORE, THE WHIRLYBIRD HERO

One of the most daring and heroic chapters in Grand Canyon history remains little known-the epic flight of helicopter pilot Michael Moore. A commercial pilot, Moore was making a routine flight in Havasu Canyon in 1997 when he spotted a flash flood roaring down the Canyon's upper reaches. He realized the flood would surely catch dozens of hikers and sunbathers when it reached the junction with the Colorado River. Moore hurtled down the Canyon at a decidedly dangerous and illegal altitude ahead of the flood. Every time he saw a group of hikers and swimmers, he hovered upstream and, using frantic hand gestures, urged them to climb up the walls of the Canyon. He reached the river just barely ahead of the flood, having warned dozens of hikers. A few people were caught in the flood as they scrambled toescape, but only one hiker was washed into the Colorado River. One woman, who left the stream as Moore hovered overhead, returned to the tranquil blue-green waters after he moved on down the Canyon, only to be caught moments later by the leading edge of the flood. At the mouth of the Canyon, river guides quickly moved several of the tied-off rafts and got all their clients to high ground. The floodwaters rose to 10 feet in the stream's narrow mouth. In the end, Moore's daring flight may have saved dozens of lives and averted one of the worst disasters in Canyon history.

This Old House

The Phoenix Historic Districts Coalition has published a self-guided driving tour of the 25 historic neighborhoods in the city with an explanation of the architectural styles and their relationship to the eras in which each was built. The publication won the Arizona Heritage Preservation Honor Award in 2000. Historic Neighborhoods of Phoenix The Phoenix Visitor and Convention Bureau and most antique shops in the city carry the free brochure, "Historic Neighborhoods of Phoenix." Information: (602) 256-7177; www.loveurbanliving.com.

Soap Creek Nudes

Bill McBurney, owner of Fly Shop Shop & Guides at Lee's Ferry Lodge on the Arizona Strip, remembers how one of his commercial fishing trips-among the first offered in the Grand Canyon over 20 years ago - turned provocative. As the boat headed to Soap Creek Rapids, Mile 11 on a river runner's map, one of the passengers commented on the area's remoteness. McBurney recalls, "Just as he asked what we do around here for excitement besides go fishing, we came to the beach at Soap Creek. Normally the place is pretty deserted. But that day, there happened to be about 20 nude people camping there. Well, his eyes nearly popped as we passed the nudes. I guess it was enough excitement for him."

View from the Butterfield

The first Butterfield stage bounced its way across Arizona in 1858. For $200, passengers bought 24 grueling days and nights of travel on the southern route from St. Louis to San Francisco. The trip included a wild-eyed ride through Apache Pass and the area of Dragoon Springs, 70 miles east of Tucson and known for untimely deaths. Rides like this could send some passengers screaming into the night in a form of a breakdown called "stage craziness." Reporter Waterman Ormsby made that trip on the Butterfield, staying sane enough to write what he saw as they approached Tucson in time for sunset.

"The heavy clouds lower over the mountain tops, tinged with the rays of the sun, in all the colors of the rainbow...." He needed that kind of vision. He and the Butterfield still had another 1,163 miles to go.

For a view of the Butterfield route, visit Fort Bowie National Historic Site. Turn south at Bowie Exit 362 from Interstate 10 and follow the signs. The trail to the fort crosses the route of the Butterfield stage.

Bisbee Cooks Up Regional Flavor

Located in a former miner's cabin, the Bisbee Cooking School offers classes for hobbyists or wannabe chefs. Instructor and owner Helen Saul, a longtime caterer and chef who studied under domestic and international chefs, will sometimes infuse local tastes into her classes. Students might pick local produce like tomatoes, beans, corn or herbs to prepare their meals. Or Saul might pair meals with Cochise County wines. Other classes showcase Creole, Cajun seafood and Southwest cooking styles. At the end of all classes, students enjoy a sit-down meal. Information: (520) 4323882; www.geocities.com/ bisbeecookingschool.

Ever Heard of an Observatory Without a Telescope?

The Harquahala Peak Smithsonian Observatory northwest of Phoenix in the Harquahala Mountains, built in 1920 by the Smithsonian Astrophysical Observatory to record solar activity, had no telescope. Instead, a theodolite measured the sun's altitude above the horizon while other delicate devices measured its energy. Scientists meticulously recorded the raw data collected and performed mathematical calculations that were sent to a Washington, D.C., weather center.

The forecast for this project may not have been entirely sunny-it only lasted five years. Protected by the Archaeological Resources Protection Act of 1979, the buildings still stand atop the tallest peak in the area.

Butterfly Kisses

Ever been courted by a butterfly? Spend a summer day in the Dry Lake Hills area, just north of Flagstaff, and you might get your chance. The ponderosa pine trees that grow there are the favorite food of the pine white butterfly (Neophasia menapia). The species usually emerges from late June to September and is best identified by its high, floating flight.

Mountain bikers on Shultz Creek Trail, west of Dry Lake, attest to another unique characteristic of the butterfly: its landing behavior. While taking a breather, riders have watched as the tiny winged creatures drift down and perch on just the white areas of their helmets, gloves and clothing.

Arizona butterfly expert Richard A. Bailowitz says the insects are likely searching for love. To a male butterfly soaring overhead, any glimpse of white down below represents a prospective mate. Butterflies also are attracted to the salts of perspiration, which explains the pine white's preference for sweaty mountain bikers.

Question of the Month

Where are caminos, calles and avenidas nearly as common as roads, streets and avenues?

These thoroughfares run through many Arizona towns. Because southern Arizona was claimed by Spain and then by Mexico before it became part of the United States, Spanish words are sprinkled into the vernacular. Arizona folks often have addresses such as Avenida del Sol (Avenue of the Sun).