CHIRICAHUA

A thousand curses! There I stood in the heart of the Wonder-land of Rocks, five miles by trail from any human habitation, the mellow light of mid-afternoon at its finest for photography and the lousy film pulled loose inside my camera. What to do! The annoying exposed film contained all the results of a perfect morning's take of picturesque Bonita Canyon, at spectacular Massai Point, and along the Upper Rhyo-lite Canyon Trail. My one remaining unexposed roll was to record the weird forms and fantastic stone figures of Heart-of-Rocks carved by Nature's twin tools, Time and Erosion, from massive volcanic rhyolite, to complete my colorfilm story of Chiricahua National Monu-ment.What a dilemma! Opening the camera would ruin in a flash the product of an entire morning's strenuous hike, but unless I removed the offending film, the camera was useless for the afternoon's project of photographing the assortment of weird and gro-tesque figures, the startling and bizarre like-nesses, in monstrous proportions, of fantastic beasts and men, assembled in motionless con-clave in this amazing rockbound glade deep in the heart of the Chiricahua Mountains.

If I were writing fiction, some creature of the wild would appear at this crucial moment to lead me to a deep and awe-inspiring cave in whose Stygian darkness I could open the camera and repack the offending film in perfect safety. Unfortunately, the volcanic outbursts that sired Chiricahua's spectacular rhyolitic remnants begot no caves. Crevices, cracks, fissures and overhanging ledges stared at me from all sides in stony silence, casting deep shadows, but none of sufficient gloom to pinch-hit as a darkroom. Perhaps my film-and-filter box would help. Searching about I selected a cavity beneath a massive boulder, pushed the box into the opening, placed the offending camera inside, and then, glancing about to be sure that I was unobserved, removed my trousers and tucked them around the opening. By careful manipulation, I was able to insert my arms through the trouser legs into the makeshift changing bag and in this cramped and doubly exposed position, rewound the film and tucked it into its cylindrical container. Believe it or not, later processing indicated that the operation was successful and only two of the 18 frames were lightstruck.

Even to the single-track mind of a photographer whose attention is absorbed with problems of contrast, lighting, and composition and whose thought processes are occupied with transposing exposure meter readings to fit emulsion speeds and diaphragm apertures, the amazingly lifelike rock forms stimulate questions of origin and derivation. My interest was so aroused that my first act, on reaching monument headquarters, was to look up the custodian and flood him with questions. Perhaps I can pass along the gist of his explanation, if you're interested.

Away back in tertiary times, according to geologists, all of the region that is now southwestern Arizona was relatively level, perhaps sloping slightly westward. Then Hell began to pop, and, accompanied by violent earthquakes, molten lava broke through the earth's crust and spread out over the surrounding plain. Eruption followed eruption, a few, explosive in nature, spread a blanket of cinders and ash over the crust of previous molten flows. Some of the deeper lavas cooled slowly forming regular patterns of vertical shrinkage cracks in the solidifying material. Lesser outpourings spread thin sheets of rapidly cooling lava over the surface of previous accumulations building up a vast lava field with laminations of various thicknesses. Then Nature changed her tactics and in the throes of terrific terrestrial pressures lifted and tilted great lava-capped blocks to form a mountain range, the Chiricahuas.

With the uplift of masses of the earth's crust, the agencies of erosion powered by gravity went into action. Freezing and thawing, running water edged with bits of stone, even windblown sand, all biting and clawing at the rough edges of vertical shrinkage cracks and dissolving or loosening softer materials along horizontal planes between lava flows, have been continuously at work throughout the millenia. Thus the sculptor, Erosion, working in the medium of volcanic rhyolite, has produced, throughout the centuries, and is continuing to produce the fantastic galaxy of rock-hewn images which populate this unique outdoor museum.

Although the results of nature-chiseling hold the strongest appeal to the eye of a photographer turned loose among the pinnacled canyons of Chiricahua National Monument, there is a great deal more diversified camera fodder in this 17 square miles of tree and shrub-covered terrain. Due to elevational and exposure differences, moisture variations, and other conditions, a great variety of plants and animals have found suitable habitats for their requirements so that there is a wide range of interest for the biologically minded camera man. Surrounded as it is by plains of relatively low elevation, the Chiricahua mountain range is actually a biological island in a desert sea. Plants and animals from other mountain areas have wandered into the Chiricahuas and established themselves here, some of them through thousands of generations having undergone sufficient evolutionary adaptation to be considered by scientists as distinct species, called "products of isolation." Among these are the Chiricahua red squirrel and the Chiricahua green rock rattlesnake. Occasionally animal visitors from other uplands spend a month or more in the Chiricahuas, then return to their native mountains. Among these are the coppery-tailed trogon, the Mexican jaguar, and the thickbilled parrot. Arizona white-tailed deer find ideal conditions within the national monument where, in common with all forms of wildlife, they enjoy year around protection. Many species of birds nest in the oaks and sycamores or search for food beneath the dense cover afforded by the heavy growth of manzanita and other chaparral.

Unfortunately for the photographer, the activities of Indians and pioneers left little of a tangible nature to tell the intensely interesting historical story of the struggle between dark-skinned native and eastern invader that reached its final stages in these very mountains. Here the Apaches made their last stand, first under the leadership of the wily Mangus Colorado, later led by the patriot and strategist Cochise, finally as followers of the fanatical and rebellious Geronimo. Predatory by nature, the Apaches originally held as their strongholds the mountain ranges of what is now New Mexico and eastern Arizona, raiding the fields and homes of the rancheria tribes, the Pima, the Papago, and the pueblos of the village dwellers along the Rio Grande and its tributaries. With the coming of the Spaniards, their sphere of activity greatly enlarged through the use of horses stolen from the invaders, the Apaches increased the tempo of their depredations. With the Gadsden Purchase in 1853 and the opening of the country to settlement by United States citizens, another and more powerful foe appeared, but the Apaches rose to meet them. Gradually they were pushed backward until eventually the Chiricahua Mountains became their last retreat. Raiding the homes of settlers, burning and pillaging smaller communities, attacking stage coaches and small bands of travelers and prospectors, these wily fighters stemmed for years the pressure of colonization of the Southwest. Finally the United States government established cavalry posts among which Fort Bowie, the remains of which still stand a few miles to the northwest of Chiricahua National Monument, served as base for counter raids against the Indians.

For more than a decade, the white settlers in southeastern Arizona were continually in fear of an Apache attack, and it was not until 1886 that Geronimo and many of his followers were finally rounded up.

Once the easily defended stronghold for bands of predatory Apaches, the Chiricahua Mountains now afford a cool retreat in summer to dwellers in Douglas, Tucson, Benson and other cities and towns of southeastern Arizona. The unique attraction afforded by the peculiar rock formations and the interesting geological phenomena displayed in Rhyolite Canyon and vicinity brought the area nationwide recognition and in April, 1924, the most spectacular portion was proclaimed Chiricahua National Monument by President Calvin Coolidge. Thus these spectacular erosional remnants and the plant and animal species that live among them are assured perpetual protection, and visitors entranced by the strange and majestic carvings of Nature may secure an accurate and understandable explanation of the various natural forces which have brought them into being. The National Park Service has constructed seven miles of excellent road and 14 miles of well graded trail, making all portions of the monument accessible to visitors. Campgrounds with fire-places, water, and sanitary facilities are available and for visitors who are not equipped for camping, there is overnight meal service at Silver Spur Camp. Saddle horses may be rented.

Here is a photographer's paradise, all of the spectacular features of the area readily accessible by graded road or well kept trail. Saddle horses are available for those who prefer to ride or need help in carrying large cameras or bulky equipment. Here is a land of varied and delicate coloring for the color film enthusiast, or bold and clearcut contrast for the fancier of the silhouette in black and white. But, whatever your favorite emulsion, brother, listen to the word of one who knows and take along your changing bag for there are no darkrooms available in Chiricahua's wonderland of rocks.

ARIZONA NATIONAL PARK SERVICE AREAS

The wealth of scenic, historical and archaeological treasures to be found in Arizona is graphically shown by this map which marks those areas in the state under the jurisdiction of the National Park Service. There are sixteen national monuments, counting Grand Canyon National Monument, the greater area of which is a national park. The Boulder Dam Recreational Area is becoming an outstanding tourist attraction. Also shown here is Rainbow Bridge National Monument, in southern Utah, which can be reached only through Arizona. Hundreds of thousands visit these areas.

"GOING PLACES?"

It is July and deep summer! The sun has moved in and anyone can see he has decided to hang around for a long time. He gets up early and goes to bed late, enjoying the scenery and having a high old time. A July day is a long day, a drowsy day, a day for dreaming. The cottonwoods are bright and green and they sing the song of summer. In the mountains the rains, that have been so long coming, have come at last and the air is heavy with the odor of pine washed clean by the rain and the odor of the good fragrant earth thankful for the rain. In the Salt River Valley the watermelons are ripe and the alfalfa ready for cutting. The peach trees in Oak Creek are heavy with fruit. In the desert, where it is hot, cattle seek the shade of the mesquite and the palo verde.

It is July and deep summer! A fine time for traveling and seeing the country and the broad highways are filled with the flowing traffic. The land is bright in the July sunshine and now is a good time to be seeing it. People, in July, cover a lot of country.

This month Arizona Highways, too, covers a lot of country all those areas in our state under the supervision of the National Park Service and even as briefly as we present them, because of space limitations, we are amazed at the wealth and variety of natural wonders and points of historic interest within Arizona's broad and endless acres. Sixteen national monuments, one national park and a recreational area, whose possibilities are just beginning to be realized, are visited herein and for good measure we serve as a special travel highlight a national monument that is in Utah the Rainbow Bridge National Monument, to dress it up in its full title-an intimate part of our travel field. No state in the Union has more national monuments, nor is there in this land, or any other land for that matter, anything to compare to Arizona's National Park, the Grand Canyon.

Each of the subjects that we have so briefly touched in this issue would require pages and pages to properly describe as they should be described. Our subjects cover history and pre-history. Archeology, geology, the story of ancient peoples and ancient times and the story of time before people! We take you briefly to two national monuments dedicated to living things-Saguaro and Organ Pipe Cactus, textbooks of natural beauty and botany. In short, under one cover we give you brief glimpses of vast and absorbing subjects that have given such pleasure to so many travelers in the past and will give greater pleasure to generations of travelers to come. This issue was designed to serve as a guide and a reference.

Why a national park or a national monument? The reason for their being is quite simple to protect and preserve parts of our land that possess unusual natural and scenic beauty, historic or scientific interest and to keep them unsullied and unchanged not only for our pleasure but for those who come after us. To protect and preserve from what? From the careless, the thoughtless, the selfish, and to maintain them against the destructiveness of weather, vandalism and tawdry commercialism. Because of the National Park Service there will never be a beer joint on Bright Angel Trail in Grand Canyon or a juke dive in Blue Forest of Petrified Forest National Monument.

Because of the Park Service Tumacacori Mission will never become a mud mound beaten down by rain and weather, nor will some of America's outstanding prehistoric ruins be torn up and mutilated by curious, unthinking people, who could in a few hours destroy something that has stood for hundreds of years. Without this protection, the petrified logs of Petrified Forest would be carted away and sold as curios. These logs have lain where they are for a million years or more telling their story of the time when the world was made. The logs and their story will remain unmolested for another million years or so simply because not too many years ago some farseeing and inspired men in Congress passed a law creating the National Park Service. We appreciate that fact now. Travelers of the next century will appreciate that fact even more.

In getting these pages together we had the generous help of National Park Service personnel; so while our stories are short they should at least be authentic. In passing, we would like to tip our hats to the men and women of the National Park Service here in the West, those who serve as the rangers and custodians in our parks and monuments. They are truly public servants, in the finest sense of the word. In their hands is the heritage America of today hands down to America of tomorrow. They do a lot of work and have a great responsibility, for which they are not particularly well paid. Yet they, by their zeal and interest, and knowledge of their subjects, add so much to the travel pleasures of thousands of people each and every day. To these men and women of the Park Service Areas in the Southwest is this issue of Arizona Highways respectfully dedicated... R. C.

ARIZONA HIGHWAYS

"Civilization Follows the Improved Highway"

The magazine, Arizona Highways, is presented by the people of Arizona to bring you in word and picture the story of our state, yesterday, today and tomorrow; to guide your pleasant journey through this smiling land of time enough and room enough and to tell you of the unhurried life therein; to point your way to the distant places throughout our great Southwest, which add to your travels the spice of adventure and discovery; and, to share with you our pride in our own corner of America, the deep West, so rich in scenic enchantment, so colorful, so real.

ARIZONA HIGHWAY COMMISSION

H. O. Pace, Chairman................................................................Casa Grande Marcel N. Forman, Vice-Chairman.......................................................Yuma J. M. Smith, Commissioner................................................................Central Dewey Farr, Commissioner................................................................St. Johns Bernard MacDonald, Commissioner....................................................Kingman Gene Eagles, Executive Secretary........................................................Phoenix W. C. Lefebvre, State Highway Engineer................................................Phoenix R. G. Langmade, Special Counsel........................................................Phoenix

LEGEND

For July--the sunny month-Arizona Highways takes pleasure in taking you to each of the areas in Arizona operated by the National Park Service, as follows: "PUNCH AND JUDY".The Cover A study by Joseph Muench of one of Dame Nature's whimsical show pieces in Wonderland of Rocks.

CHIRICAHUA1 Rocks! Weird of shape and form! And more rocks!

TUMACACORI4 Of an ancient mission that remembers the Conquest.

ORGAN PIPE6 A cactus wilderness preserved for tomorrow.

CASA GRANDE8 Recalling people who lived long, long ago.

GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK10 In all the world, nothing can compare to our Canyon.

TONTO RUINS12 Of a village built high up in a cliff.

SAGUARO12 A forest of cactus, carefully tended as a garden.

ANASAZI BOGHAN of Navajo Nat'l Monument15 Where lived ancient people in an ancient land.

Portraits in color of Arizona's National Monuments, the Grand Canyon National Park and Boulder Dam Recreational area. So you can see for yourself why this is the colorful land.The Insert LAKE MEAD BECOMES A PLAYGROUND25 There's boating, fishing, and lots of scenery.

RAINBOW BRIDGE26 The monument is in Utah, just over the line.

WALNUT CANYON27 Of prehistoric ruins in steep canyon walls.

WUPATKI28 The village in Coconino born from a volcano.

PETRIFIED FOREST30 Time's story told in aeons and wood turned to stone.

CANYON DE CHELLY32 History, archaeology, time and wind-swept sand.

PIPE SPRINGS34 The people were pioneers-those were brave days.

MONTEZUMA CASTLE36 An apartment house overlooking the Verde country.

SUNSET CRATER38 The good earth just busted out all over.

TUZIGOOT39 Of peaceful farming folk in a peaceful valley.

YOURS SINCERELY40 Some of the folks come in to set a spell.

ARIZONA HIGHWAYS is published monthly by the Arizona Highway Department, Phoenix, Arizona. All communications should be addressed to ARIZONA HIGHWAYS, Arizona Highway Department, Phoenix, Arizona. The Tariff: $2.00 per year. 35 cents per copy. "Entered as second-class matter Nov. 5, 1941, at the post office at Phoenix, Arizona, under the Act of Mar. 3, 1879." Narrative and illustrated material herein published are the property of the person to whom credited and cannot be reproduced without permission. ARIZONA HIGHWAYS will not be responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or illustrations. Material contributed for editorial consideration should be accompanied by return postage. ARIZONA HIGHWAYS is copyrighted, 1946, by the Arizona Highway Department, Phoenix, Arizona.