Jalisco

It is difficult to decide which has the more glamour, the State of Jalisco, (Hah-lees'co) or its charming and romantic capital, Guadalajara (Gwah-dah-lah-hah-rah). Both have been the inspiration for song and dance. Who has not seen the "Jarabe Tapatío" (the Mexican hat dance) or heard the rollicking song, "Guadalajara"? Perhaps the State is only enhanced by its beautiful capital, one of the loveliest cities in all of Mexico. Jalisco is one of the largest, richest and most progressive States in the Republic, covering an area of approximately 58,000 square miles. Its west coastline runs for 210 miles along the Pacific Ocean and the altitude varies from sea level to 6000 feet. The climate is tropical along the seacoast but cool on the plateaus. Its exports include minerals, cereals, fine fruits, textiles, pottery, glassware, leather goods, liquor, (tequila-tay-kee-lah) tiles and many other lesser products.

While it is estimated that from one fourth to one third of the entire population of Mexico consists of pure-blooded Indians, Jalisco has probably a smaller percentage of residents of pure Indian blood than the country as a whole. Perhaps 5% of the population are pure Spanish descent while the vast majority are of mixed races with Indian and Spanish blood predominating.

Spanish is the common language in Jalisco but in a few remote regions Indian dialects are still spoken. A considerable number of people, especially among the business communities of urban areas, also speak English.

Economically, the population of Jalisco falls into the same general classification as those applicable to all of Mexico; a large group living at a subsistence level, about 84%; a small middle class, about 15%; and a very small group of wealthy people, about 1%. However, with Jalisco becoming more and more important as an industrial center, the percentage of its residents either in the middle class or in the wealthy group is probably greater than the national average of the Republic.

The able and popular Governor of the State of Jalisco is Licenciado (Attorney) Jesús Gonzales Gallo.

The region that comprises the present State of Jalisco was conquered by the Spaniard, Nuño Beltrán de Guzmán (Gooze-mahn) and his army in 1529. In January 1532, one of his subordinates, Captain Juan de Oñate, founded "Villa de Guadalajara" in honor of his Commander who was born in the Spanish City of the same name. However, the site chosen proved to be undesirable and the town was moved in August 1533 to Tonalá. This site did not please Guzmán and early in 1535 he caused a further removal to Tlacomán, north of the gorge of the Rio Grande, which at that point is now more generally known as the Santiago River. Finally, in February 1542, Guadalajara was moved to its fourth and present site in the Valley of Atemajac (Ah-tay'-mah-hak). The city celebrated its 400th anniversary only eight years ago.

The phenomenal growth of Guadalajara is plainly demonstrated by the 1950 census. In 1940 the population was 236,557 while the 1950 census shows the figure to be 382,710, a 62% increase over a ten-year period. The States as a whole showed a 23% increase, the population of Jalisco now being 1,744,770. One of the reasons for Guadalajara's spectacular growth could well be its almost perfect climate. It is one of the cleanest, brightest and most healthful cities in Mexico. It is situated 5000 feet above sea level in the midst of low, gently rolling hills. The sun shines daily and the heat is never oppressive, 67° being the normal temperature during June and July. The atmosphere is exceptionally dry from September to June.

Guadalajara is certainly a combination of the old and the new. Horsedrawn carriages share the streets with the most up-to-date station-wagons; and heavily laden burros amble along the cobble streets with the latest in Coca-Cola delivery trucks; hand-drawn carts compete with up-to-date moving vans; newly-widened paved avenues are only a block removed from the narrow, one-way cobble streets. Sarapes, sombreros

and rebozos rub shoulders with young Mexicans whose smartly tailored suits might well have come from the pages of "Esquire."

Guadalajara homes are a contrast, too, but both cling to the inside patios and an abundance of grillwork. The gardens are luxurious with flowering trees and tropical plants. Except for the doors, practically no wood is used in construction. All floors are of tile, and glass is use effectively and profusely. Be the home a hut or mansion the bougainvilla and bright tropical flowers grow lavishly, adding color and beauty the year round. Guadalajara is a city of church and the most beautiful of all is the Cathedral which boasts, among other treasures, Murillo's magnificient "Assumption of the Virgin." One of the loveliest smaller churches is Santa Monica whose marvellously carved stone grapes of the elaborately decorated facade suggests an early pagan temple dedicated to Bacchus.

Guadalajara's Museum and Library are housed in an ancient seminary building, which, constructed in 1700, is one of the finest examples of early eighteenth century architecture on the American Continent. Recently the museum was the scene of a very fine art exhibit presented by the American G.I.'s who are studying here in Guadalajara. El Teatro Degollado, (Day-go-yah-doh) is one of the city's most cherished landmarks. Patterned after La Scala in Milán, it was begun in 1855 and when completed in 1866 was the largest and finest buildings of its kind in the Republic. It seats 3000, and is the home of the University-sponsored Symphony Orchestra.

The most celebrated and interesting fiesta in Guadalajara takes place from June until October of each year when Our Lady of Zapopan (Sah-pó-pahn) comes to the city from her own village about five miles distant, to be with the Guadalajarans during the rainy season. It is said that before her arrival in the 17th century, the storms were so violent that each year many people were killed by lightning. Since the arrival of Our Lady, however, the "tormentas" have been less severe, and the people attribute this phenomenon to their beloved Virgin of Zapopan. Like her two sister images. Talpa and San Juan de Los Lagos, Zapopan is rich in jewels and finery. She carries a jeweled sword and enjoys the title of general. She rides in her own coach which is completely covered with fresh flowers, and is pulled by hand. She is surrounded by a human chain of 100 or more, members of the guard of honor of the Virgin of Zapopan, who chanting and praying. accompany her from church to church. Always in the procession, are Indian dancers who execute their traditional and energetic patterns to the beat of drums and the piping of shrill fife-like instruments. The costumes are of brightly colored silks. adorned with bits of glass and tin, beads and other objects. The head dresses are of feathers, elaborate and colorful. Many authentic Mexican costumes, fresh flowers, bright rebozos, not to mention confetti and the inevitable firecrackers make the pilgrimage of Our Lady of Zapopan a never-to-be-forgotten experience. After having visited every one of the seventy-odd churches in Guadalajara, the Virgin returns to her own shrine. accompanied by practically the entire population of Guadalajara and the surrounding villages.

Only thirty-two miles southeast of Guadalajara is the largest lake in the Republic, Chapala (Chah-pah-lah). It is seventy miles long, 20 miles wide, covers 270 square miles and is 5,159 feet above the ocean. It straddles the boundary between the States of Jalisco and Michoacan (Mich-oh-ahkahn). On the banks of the Lake Chapala is an attractive resort town where one may enjoy a famous "white fish" dinner while listening to the music of the Mariachi (mah-reeach-ee...roving singers), or just watching the beautiful sunset. At Lake Chapala there are several hotels and many beautiful homes belonging to Guadalajarans who spend their summer vacations and week-ends at the Lake.Another State attraction, also convenient to Guadalajara, is San Pedro Tlaquepaque, (Tlah-kay-pah-kay) famous for its pottery works which produce great quantities of figurines, enormous jars and plates, macetas, cooking and tableware. In the plaza at Tlaquepaque one may enjoy tequila, beer or other refreshments while listening to the Mariachi or cancioneros (kalın-see-o-neh-rolis) (street singers).

One of the prettiest short trips from Guadalajara is the one to Tequila. For over three centuries this old Spanish town has maintained its precarious position on the edge of a gorgeous ravine down which clear, tumultuous waters rush. This charming rural village is finely flavoured by tradition and liquor, for it is the original home of Mexico's national drink.

The regional dish of Jalisco is “pozole” (poh-zó-lay). It is made of maiz and is cooked with either pork or chicken and served with shredded lettuce, sliced radishes, chopped onions, a dash of lime juice and a “salsa picante.” It is delicious and like all other Mexican “comidas” is preceded by “una copita” of tequila taken with a pinch of salt and a dash of lime.

To leave resorts and “refrescos” for a moment... Jalisco is very proud of its native son or Tapatío, (tah-pah-teé-oh) the late José Clemente Orozco, Mexico's genius painter of murals. His work is well represented in Guadalajara and as a result, painters and art lovers are beginning to make pilgrimages to the city where they can see and study the famous murals which are to be found in the huge dome and on the walls of the Paranymph (lecture hall) of the University of Guadalajara; the Hospicio (os-pee-see-oh) de Niños (orphanage) and in the Governor's Palace.

Perhaps it might be interesting to state some of the differences one finds when making his home in Mexico. The most noteworthy item is that of servants. They may be hired for as little as 50 pesos per month (about $6.50) or as much as 200 pesos or approximately $28. Usually they prefer to live in the home where they are employed. They are especially good with children and have untold patience with their young charges. A servant might spend a whole lifetime in the services of a particular family having become an indispensable and useful member of that home; she may have begun her career as the young “nana” (nurse) to the first newborn and have been his faithful companion throughout his early life, never quite relinquishing her vigilance and affection for the child. Naturally, the foreign children grow up speaking the native tongue and frequently when spoken to in English respond in Spanish. It is curious to attend a children's party given by the American Society and find that the children revert to Spanish when playing together.

The Mexican servants launder beautifully and iron most expertly, charging on an average of four pesos or about 65 cents per day.

Rents are comparatively cheap. An attractive four-bedroom house will cost from 400 to 500 pesos, roughly 65 dollars a month. Telephone, electricity and water rates are much

cheaper than in the States but the service is not as good. Meat is much cheaper and often eaten the day it is killed. Chickens are usually selected and killed before the eyes of the purchaser. The most common fruits to be had are oranges, pineapples, bananas, papayos, mangos and other tropical fruits in season. The orange juice is especially sweet and delicious.

Taxis are plentiful and cheap and frequently it is wiser and no more expensive to hire a car and driver for a trip than to take one's own automobile.

Marketing is always an interesting experience and one usually bargains for every item; in fact, that is an accepted practice except in certain stores which state that their prices are fixed.

Another curious thing is the number of people who come to one's door to sell or to repair various items. Each has his own distinctive whistle, or call, and soon one learns to listen for his favorite "Mr. Fixer." The man most welcome is the "zapatero" (zah-pah-táy-ro) who repairs and shines shoes. He usually settles himself in a shady place on the sidewalk and with several pairs of shoes arranged before him begins to repair or polish. The cost is small, only about five cents a shine; and it is a very good one, indeed.

The most amazing delivery boy is the one who rides his bicycle while carrying on his head a huge flat basket full of hard rolls or the favorite Mexican "pan dulce" or sweet bread. His balance is amazing despite wind and other street hazards.

One could hardly write about Mexico without some reference to the type of fiesta enjoyed here. In addition to the many national and church festivals, there are the private parties which are so much a part of the everyday life of the Mexican. The most important, of course, is the birthday party, the chief attraction of which is always the piñata. This is an olla or earthen jar which has been beautifully decorated with crepe paper-it may be an airplane, a ship, a watermelon, a monkey or practically any object. The jar is filled with candies, peanuts, limes, oranges, gum, etc. It is suspended from a rope and may be swung from side to side or raised up and down. In turn, the children are blindfolded and with a stout stick try to break the piñata. Of course when someone finally succeeds there is a mad scramble to get as many of the contents as possible. A piñata is not confined to birthday anniversaries but may be enjoyed on most any occasion. A birthday celebration sometimes begins at 3 o'clock in the morning when one is awakened by the "mañanitas" sung by friends and professional musicians who serenade for about thirty minutes after which breakfast is usually served.

It is not always necessary to have a birthday in order to be serenaded. Frequently young men honor their “novias” (sweethearts) by hiring singers or stringed music to speak their messages of love. This particular form of serenade is called the “gallo” (guy-yo). It can be a very romantic experience but if the parents of the señorita are not sympathetic with the courtship, the music can be terminated somewhat abruptly, and the young man must pay the musicians without having received the desired reward for his efforts.

Better even than the birthday party is the celebration of one's Saint's Day-when friends and relatives pay a call and usually bring flowers or other gifts. If it is during the orchid season one might even receive a basket containing a hundred or more orchids. The most popular feast day is Guadalupe Day on December 12th when Mexico pays homage to the national patron saint, and to all the girls who have been named in her honor.

Christmas is celebrated in a most beautiful and impressive manner. In place of Christmas trees, practically every home has a “Nacimiento” (Nah-see-me-en'-to) and for nine days the story of Mary and Joseph's ride to Jerusalem is re-enacted by those who assemble at various homes. Included are the recitation of the Rosary, the singing of traditional music and the procession, with lighted candles, wanders from patio to patio re-enacting the search for lodging by Mary and Joseph. Christmas is purely a religious celebration, and the exchange of gifts is postponed until January 6th, the day of the Three Wise Men when the children expect their presents as a gift from the Magi.

Volumes more could be written about Mexico, considered by many the ideal vacation spot of the world. Those of us who live here find it charming and attractive; however, in order to enjoy it to the fullest, we must remember that manana does not always mean “tomorrow” as we learned it in our textbooks, but perhaps . . . sometime in the not-too-distant-future . . . Quien sabe?