Archive All Issues May 1953

WHITE MOUNTAINS OF ARIZONA

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Summer''s fast approach turns our thoughts to cool, green highlands.

Featured in the May 1953 Issue of Arizona Highways

The White Mountains in east-central Arizona form the largest and most important range in the state. This heavily forested region, with its cool streams and jewel-like lakes, gainsays the common belief of the uninformed that Arizona is just a desert state, all cactus and sand and sunshine.

Small in comparison to some of the great ranges of the country, the White Mountains, nevertheless, bow to few other ranges in matters of utility, interest, scenery, and historical lore.

These mountains were first seen by Europeans in the 1500's when Coronado led his party into Arizona searching for the lost cities of Cibola. He referred to the area as "the Wilderness," an apt description, then as now. But the gallant Spanish captain would have been surprised to know that a pre-historic civilization flourished hundreds of years before near where he passed. The story of that civilization has been told in the excavation of Kin-ishba Ruins, near Fort Apache, by the distinguished archeaologist, Byron Cummings. Kinishba was once a large and thriving community, whose inhabitants looked to the mountains for sustenance and recreation. After Coronado made his way out of the New World and into history, he was followed, no doubt, by some inquiring Franciscans who, seeing the lofty snow-clad peaks after months of wandering through the arid land, gave them the Spanish name of "Sierra Blanca," to be later the "White Mountains."

ishba Ruins, near Fort Apache, by the distinguished archeaologist, Byron Cummings. Kinishba was once a large and thriving community, whose inhabitants looked to the mountains for sustenance and recreation. After Coronado made his way out of the New World and into history, he was followed, no doubt, by some inquiring Franciscans who, seeing the lofty snow-clad peaks after months of wandering through the arid land, gave them the Spanish name of "Sierra Blanca," to be later the "White Mountains."

In the early 1870's Mormon settlers, peopling Round Valley, entered the mountains with axe and saw to begin the first lumbering operations. Since then the range has produced bountiful harvests each year, with an extensive lumber industry being centered today around McNary and Maverick. Ponderosa pine, with which the Whites are heavily covered, forms the commercial crop. This forest is part of a vast forest extending southward through the Blues and northward to the San Francisco Peaks, forming the largest stand of virgin Ponderosa pine in the United States.

Among the early residents of the White Mountains were more aggressive and high-spirited of the citizenry who found in them convenient hiding places from posses and energetic sheriffs who looked with displeasure on such hazardous, if exciting, occupations as bank robbing and horse and cattle stealing. The "wild bunch" could holdup a train or rob a bank in New Mexico and in a few hours be lost in the depths of the Whites where they could loaf amid pleasant, surroundings until things quietened down.

A bearded gentleman by the name of Ulysses S. Grant, president of the United States, issued an executive order on November 9, 1871, setting up what is now the Fort Apache Indian Reservation, upon recommendation of the War Department “as a reservation for the roving Apache Indians of New Mexico and Arizona.” The reservation to-day covers a large part of the White Mountains. Among the “roving Apaches” who found themselves, against their will at Fort Apache, was the courageous Victorio, a chieftain from the tribe of Warm Springs Apaches in New Mexico. He told General Crook at Fort Apache: "My fathers lived and died at Ojo Caliente. We want to live and die there. Send us back and we will always be friends. Keep us here and we will die fighting like brave men.' He was not sent back so he and his people died "fighting like brave men" five years later, only after the death of hundreds of innocent people and at a cost to the United States government of several millions of dollars in waging war against him.

Mexico. He told General Crook at Fort Apache: "My fathers lived and died at Ojo Caliente. We want to live and die there. Send us back and we will always be friends. Keep us here and we will die fighting like brave men.' He was not sent back so he and his people died "fighting like brave men" five years later, only after the death of hundreds of innocent people and at a cost to the United States government of several millions of dollars in waging war against him.

The Apaches today in the White Mountains are prosperous and happy. They have their cattle and small farms and receive, from their lumber, royalties that are used in part to support the aged and needy of the tribe. The Indians are friendly and welcome visitors, but if you go to their reservation to fish you must not only have a state fishing license but also a special license from the tribe, quite reasonable to be sure, but a reminder, at least, that pale faces are not lords and owners of all creation.

The completion of U. S. 60, from Springerville to Globe, started a new chapter in the history of the White Mountains the era of the fisherman, camper, vacationist. You can get there quick and easy, as the saying goes. Showlow, Springerville, McNary, Lakeside, Pinetop, Fort Apache, Whiteriver, Greer, Eagar, Alpine, and Nutrioso cater to the needs of the sportsman and visitors. Business, needless to say, is brisk as more and more people discover the lovely mountains.

The reigning majesty of the Whites is Thomas Peak, affectionately known as Old Baldy, some 11,500 feet in elevation, whose deep snow banks give forth little streams that eventually join each other to form the Salt River, whose waters are mainly responsible for the broad, green, productive acres of the Salt River Valley. The principal drainage on the eastern slopes of the mountains becomes the Little Colorado, which has helped in a small way to dig the Grand Canyon, build Lake Mead, and make power for industry all over the West.

The Whites rise rich, regal and serene, a green and beautiful forested oasis in the middle of a vast expanse of aridity. Folks living in the arid country, because of good roads, find the White Mountains almost as accessible, and just as friendly, as their back yards. . . . R. C.