The Patient Navajo

Mission in the Valley

PHOTOGRAPHS BY THE AUTHOR Monument Valley is a blend of a beautiful land and a beautiful people. As hydrogen and oxygen combine to make water, so does this land of fantastic monuments, mesas, arches, distance, sand and sage blend with the sheep, the hogans, the ceremonies and the colorful ways of the Navajo to complete the equasion the formula that is Monument Valley. One can hardly visit Monument Valley without being conscious of both elements simultaneously: the people and the land, fused as one, wedded to live in apparent harmony. But beautiful as the land may be, when one is wedded to it, dependent upon it alone for food, shelter, warmth and livelihood, it can at times in its many moods be a harsh mate, too hot, too cold, too dry, too windy, too relentless, too devil-may-care.

The tourist arrives. To him it is all a breathless dream. In two or three days he is gone and he has a lot of exposed film and a never-to-be-forgotten experience to take along. But the Navajo stays and the elements stay and they in their own good time scar and errode his life as they do the land. The Navajo loves his lonely land but his living habits have had little chance to adjust to ever-changing conditions in the past hundred years since the white man came. Too often he is hungry and thirsty, too often he is cold and sick and too often there is no place near to turn for understanding and proper care.

In 1950, a Seventh Day Adventist minister, Elder Marvin Walter and his wife, Gwendolyn, a registered nurse, arrived on the scene in Monument Valley with a mobile clinic trailer. Until then the nearest medical assistance was at the government hospital at Tuba City, 103 miles away over poor reservation roads. In twelve months, the Walters treated 1,500 patients. The need for a permanent clinic was established without a doubt. Harry Goulding, beloved godfather and trader to the Navajos, always anxious to lend his Indians a helping hand, donated seven acres of choice land in Rock Door Canyon for the clinic site. The first permanent buildings were constructed of materials from a nearby motion picture set that had been used in filming "She Wore A Yellow Ribbon."

At first many of the Navajos were hesitant to forsake the sand paintings and eagle feathers of their own medicine men to try the white man's instruments of health.

Nurse Gwen Walter travels far to treat Navajo patients in their bogans, and many come to the clinic for care.

Then word of the wonderful results got around and down the sandy washes, across the barren wasteland they came: Indians who had never experienced medical care, on foot, on horseback, carrying sick children in their arms. When the sick can't come to the clinic, no hogan is too remote, no road or trail too poor to keep the Walters from going to the patient in their four-wheel-drive jeep ambulance to treat them, or to bring them back to the clinic, or to rush them all the way to the hospital at Tuba City if the case so warrants. It is not uncommon for a Navajo baby to be born by the side of the dusty road to Tuba with Gwen taking charge of the situation. Recently a Navajo baby boy arriving in this untimely manner was christened "Jeep" in honor of his place of birth.

Much of the mission program for the Navajos is dependent upon donations of money and clothing from private individuals. Visitors to Monument Valley who have witnessed this outstanding work contribute much to the Walters' success and ability to carry on, through personal donations and by passing word of this worthy cause along to others. With this outside aid, combined with the sponsorship and support of the Seventh Day Adventist Church and the tireless devotion and zeal of Marvin and Gwen Walter, the mission is steadily expanding in both size, benefits and services for the Navajos.

Today this little community consists of living quarters for the Waiters and their three children and living quarters as well for visiting medical and dental specialists who come from all parts of the country to see this scenic wonderland and at the same time give of their time and skill examining and treating cases that need special attention and care. There is a new school house with a full-time Marvin Walter keeps in touch with the outside world. The Mission school educates the Valley children. teacher. Free hot lunches are supplied to the students, and many Navajo families that might otherwise go hungry, receive the blessing of nourishing food sent along with the children when they return to their hogans in the evening. The recently enlarged clinic has 1,800 square feet of floor area to accommodate a clinical room, examination room, treatment room, laboratory, x-ray equipment, two dental chairs and a dental lab. Radio contact is maintained with the outside world to summon medical assistance or an ambulance plane in case of severe emergency, or to inform a distant hospital to stand by to receive an emergency case that is on its way: There are to date over 1,600 Navajo names on the clinic's medical history card index and an average of 200 patients are treated each month. The Navajo death rate in an area of 30 by 60 miles around the clinic has dropped from around 28 a year to five or less. In this project, medical needs have top priority, then comes education. After the body has been healed and the mind enlightened, to complete the pattern and feed the soul it is the hope of Reverend Walter to add a place of worship... a church in the valley.

The Navajo still uses his sand paintings, eagle feathers and chants for medicine in Monument Valley, but often in cooperation with Gwen's penicillin, pills and therapy. The Navajos reason that Navajo medicine men make strong medicine, the white man makes strong medicine, together they make medicine twice as strong.

A Navajo mother, comforting her sick child, breathes a prayer of relief as the Mission ambulance arrives.

MONUMENT VALLEY

Yours Sincerely FARM PRODUCTS-SALT RIVER VALLEY:

In your February issue . . . you say that since 1910, when the Project first started, crop production, now totalling $57,000 annually, is twenty times greater than the output before the project was built. I just wonder if you didn't intend to put $57,000,000.

SCHOOL IN FLORIDA:

I thought it might be of interest to you to know that your issues of ARIZONA HIGHWAYS have greatly aided me in providing projects from my Eighth Grade classes in English.

A specific project that was beneficial to the students as well as a beautifying aspect to the classroom was constructed in the following manner: The children, after having selected a picture of their own choice, cut the picture to be framed. The frames were of their own design and making. Once this was completed they wrote poems relating to the pictures they had selected. Within several weeks we had an art gallery.

RECEPTION IN AUSTRALIA:

Once a month the six members of our family are the fortunate recipients of your delightful ARIZONA HIGHWAYS-a magazine which knows no equal in our part of the world. Our growing collection of ARIZONA HIGHWAYS is constantly admired by friends, and I know not one person who has failed to be captivated by the beauty of art, science and colour so outstandingly exemplified in your publication. How refreshing it is to see a work of this calibre free from commercials and advertising!

U. S. 80:

Congratulations on your January issue featuring U. S. 80. Having traveled extensively through the United States, Canada, Mexico and Europe, I feel that Highway 80 through Cochise County, via Douglas, Bisbee and historic Tombstone, offers more scenery, color and history than any comparable distance I have ever traversed.

Incidentally, your readers I am sure, will be happy to hear that Tombstone's historic courthouse (pictured on Page 19), the oldest standing courthouse in the State, is being restored by the Tombstone Restoration Commission. It will be used for a library, community center and Museum for all of Chochise County. Contributions will be appreciated.

In reference to Montezuma Pass, page 16, please note it is located in the Huachuca Mountains and not the Chiricahuas.

OPTICIAN VS. OPTOMETRIST:

May I congratulate you on your beautiful Christmas issue of ARIZONA HIGHWAYS. Mrs. Molenaar and I, being photographers, enjoy your publications so much. My patients often find their time in the reception room too short to see all they want so sometimes I give them a number of issues in a binder for home enjoyment.

I do have a correction to suggest, however. In your printed matter under the picture, "Painted Sands-Painted Skies," you write, "Our unobserving friend, of course, is due for a visit to his optician." I think you mean optometrist. An optician is the technician. He fabricates the glasses. The optometrist would examine the eyes of the unobserving friends, diagnose his case, and if necessary, prescribe glasses so that he could enjoy the beauties of Arizona. He might also see an opthalmologist, who prescribes glasses also, but specializes in diseased conditions and medical care of the eye.

COFFEE STOP IN ARIZONA

Suddenly, after driving all day in the changing sky, There will be JOE'S beneath red cliffs Near red cattle... a shack smoking blue In the late sun: DESERT BURGERS, HOT COFFEE, LAST STOP FOR GAS (to eternity?), BEER.

Inside, out of the spreading land and sky, It will be anywhere KC, Chicago, the Bowery Tired people waiting on tired tablesCatsup, sugar and salt, beside dusty ash traysThe all-over smell of beer noticed and forgotten.

Then a pleasant moment of wonderment On coming out again into a moon-high planet, Pinnacles stabbing the flesh-pink clouds; One, half-uneasy feeling... suggesting Of the insignificance of man The questions Who? and Why? and Where? Pricking three times, sharply Before key, and car, and conversation, Retake the moment from the stars.

SHOWER AT TWILIGHT

After the still, hot day, brief rain Revives the sun, now almost down, And coaxes slim, orange-pencil rays To copper-etch the roofs of town.

PROFIT AND LOSS

I took the straight, the in-a-hurry road To save an hour, as mortals calculate. I lost the boon my journey had bestowed Had I been slow enough to contemplate The means to reach the end that spurred me on; Going relinquished, time itself was gone!

WHAT SMALL FRACTION

Had I the skill to paint The brilliance of an autumn dawn; Delineate The mantled grace of winter's charmIf I could fashion clay In likeness of a weathered clod, Or sculpture stone To match the face of desert rockIf I could clothe the loom As vines entwine a woodland floor; Weave silk as gossamer As the morning meadow's misty capeIf I had voice to call As do winds along a canyon's rim, Or sound one note of joy All birds would sing response toIf I could do all this and more, Think what small fraction I'd possess The beauty we of Earth are heir to.

CANYON. DE CHELLY

Though blown by Heaven's mightiest gale, A single grain of sand would fail To leave a trace To mark its race Along these towering walls.

Yet, slowly carved through centuries past, With wind to blow and sand to blast, The ruddy, rough Resistant stuff Became this masterpiece.

BACK COVER

"ROAD BY AGATHLAN PEAK" BY JOSEF MUENCH. A few miles north of Kayenta, Arizona, the lonely road to Monument Valley and the Arizona-Utah border passes by the historic landmark-Agathlan Peak. Kit Carson called it "El Capitan." The peak marks the beginning of Monument Valley.

OPPOSITE PAGE

"PAINTING IN WOOL-MONUMENT VALLEY" BY ALLEN C. REED. This Navajo weaver is carefully recording the distant scene in Monument Valley, by weav-ing it into a rug. Her subjects are the Totent Pole and the Yei-bi-chai. Speed Graphic, 4x5 daylight Ektachrome with blue flash to fill in shadow detail, 1/10 second at f22 on