Yavapai County: The Mother of Counties and Land of Enchantment

YAVAPAI COUNTY The Mother of Counties and Land of Enchantment by Charles Franklin Parker and Jeanne S. Humburg

Yavapai-"Mother of Arizona counties"-has a history as picturesque as the phrase that best describes her-"the heart of a varied land of enchantment."

Lying in the geographical center of Arizona, with all lines drawn from corners to corners as well as mid-points of the state bisecting the county, Yavapai can claim most of the geographical, zoological and climatic conditions found anywhere in the state. Within its 8,150 square miles (about the size of Massachusetts), it varies from a desert low of 1,900 foot elevation at the southermost point of the county to the height of Mount Union, just shy of 8,000 feet and within sight of Prescott, county seat since its founding in 1864.

Its mountains are timbered with piñon, ponderosa, spruce and aspen and rich in minerals; its valleys rich in farmland, its cattle range dotted with juniper, live oak, mesquite and manzanita in the more than a million acres of grazing land. There is the brilliant red rock charm of lower Oak Creek and the terrain below 3,500 feet is characterized by desert vegetation-the giant saguaro, chollas, yuccas, palo verde and ocotillo. In less than a two hour's drive by car one travels from the palms and orange trees of Castle Hot Springs to forests of ponderosa pine. Thus for variety, Yavapai is possibly the most typical county in Arizona.

Equally varied are its mined resources and manufactured products, its agricultural crops and cattle operations, its recreation and sports, and highly important its health-giving benefits in clear mountain air or sun-dry valleys and desert. More essential in this world today is the stimulating variance in its people-the mingling of frontier ranchers, miners and merchants and staunch New England pioneers with the later influx of new blood-new ideas from all corners of the nation. It is this variety of natural attractions and human endeavor that has produced Yavapai County's past, present and future-a pictorial pageant of more than 1200 years filled with natural splendor and achievement. In many respects it is a county of western tradition, treasurUsing its frontier beginning and perpetuating the era of army forts, gold strikes and "cowboy" days in museums, celebrations and rodeos, including Prescott's Frontier Days. It is also a county with varying cultural resources of artistic, educational, religious and social significance, offering opportunities for sharing in entertainment, hobbies, vocational, civic and recreational activities.

It is a county with both winter and summer resorts, with few towns but many small communities, with new industry that spells a progressive future and with expansion seen readily in home building and real estate transactions. About 3,000 property trans-fers were recorded in 1959.

The estimated population of Yavapai, showing a 31.2 per cent increase over the 1950 census, is 32,776. Prescott is the largest town with 16,000 population; Cottonwood, trading center of the Verde Valley, has 3,500 people. All other communities have smaller populations than these. To many who do not know Yavapai County the figures may paint a sparse picture; to those who do, it is a genuine part of the county's drawing power for new enterprise, for new residents and tourists (both summer and winter). It is the happy partnership of a mining, ranching and agricultural county growing in industry and manufacturing, yet abounding in historic and scenic attractions for relaxed enjoyment.

Named for the Yavapai (Yah-vah-pie) Indians, with a dual and equally applicable translation of "People of the Sun" and "Hill People," the county was one of Arizona's four original counties established by the Territorial Government by an early enactment in 1864. In its original boundaries it encompassed almost three-quarters of the land of the Territory-from the Gila River north to the Utah border and from New Mexico westward to the boundaries of Yuma and Mohave counties.

From Yavapai's original vast area of roughly 85,000 square miles were later created all or part of eight other countiesMaricopa (1871), Pinal (1875), Apache (1879), Graham and Gila (1881), Coconino (1891), Navajo (1895) and Greenlee (1909). Although Yavapai today is but one tenth its original size, it lost none of the quick contrasts and varied features that make it "enchanting."

The earliest known inhabitants and explorers had woven an enduring picture of enterprise and initiative long before rich gold strikes in the 1860's had set a pattern of history and growth for Yavapai County, bringing it to what it is today.

From archeological data now available, it appears that the first migration of peoples to the Yavapai country might have occurred as early as 700 A.D. The early Hohokam (meaning "those who have vanished" in the Pima language) moved north-ward from the Salt and Gila valleys up along the Verde, Has-sayampa and Agua Fria courses into these higher elevations and somewhat remote valleys and fastnesses. These early ones were home builders, pottery makers and agriculturalists. They lived in jacal-like structures whose floors were excavated below the ground surface and a super-structure imposed over it. They dug irrigation ditches and engineered their design to include quite large acreages for cultivation.

Some four hundred years later there appears to have been another migration into the regions of the Verde River, and these people, called Signua, apparently came from the north and east. The remains of this ancient culture is now best evidenced by the remains at Montezuma Castle and Montezuma Well areas on Beaver Creek and Tuzigoot Pueblo Ruins on the Verde near Clarkdale. Actually, caves and ruins dot the entire area of the county. The lofty cliff dwellings of Montezuma Castle, built within the large caves of the limestone cliffs, are among America's oldest apartment house structures. The remains of the ancient irrigation system at nearby Montezuma Well gives evidence of the skill of the early agriculturists.

From the findings at Tuzigoot, Montezuma Castle, the Fitz-maurice and Kings Ruins in the Chino Wash area and from the Fairgrounds Ruins near Prescott, along with the gatherings of pot-hunters who gathered from many caves and unwittingly dug into old mounds, there is evidence of civilization upon civilization in the area in far off times dating back for more than twelve hundred years. The treasures from these ruins are now housed at both of the National Monuments, Montezuma Castle and Tuzigoot, and at the Smoki and Sharlot Hall Museums in Prescott.

By 1400 this ancient culture of the region was left behind by those who had developed it. Why they left is still pondered by the students of archeology, but we do know that at about this time it is possible to project another migration into the region. These newer arrivals probably came from the Colorado River area and since Espejo recounts in his journal that he encountered Indians in the Verde Valley "with crosses on their heads," it is possible that they may have been contacted by Fray Garces or Alarcon in their earlier journeys along the Colorado. It seems thar Yavapais and Hualapais were the Indians that Espejo encountered. The marauding Apaches, who probably appeared in Arizona about 1600, were firmly entrenched when the early settlers arrived. Although they had fought the Yavapais and Hualapais, all three continued to live in the vast region in the 1860's and still do today. The Yavapai saw the coming and going of early Spanish exploration parties, but the penetration was slight and, momentary and of no lasting or impressive character. Since the expeditions, including Estevan, Fray Marcos de Niza and Coronado were all searching for the "seven cities of Cibols" to the north and east of this region, their contacts were only those of passing through. It is known that Espejo journeyed from New Mexico to the area of the Verde Valley in 1983 and that Farfan came in 1598 and Onate in 1604. But not finding wealth in terms of gold and silver, seemed to consider the land and its people not worthy of further concern.

The intervening years between the last coming of the Spanish explorers and the arrival of the Walker and Peeple's parties in 1862-1363 is the period of exploration by that bold and restless breed known as "the mountain men." Many of the best of these roamed the entire Arizona region and doubtless found the beaver along the streams of the Yavapai country. Included would be such names as Jeddiah Smith, Old Bill Williams, William Subletre, Felix Aubrey, Kit Carson and Pauline Weaver. The men from the "old lands beyond the Missouri and Mississippi" were wilderness trained and unconventional, but they were loyal Americans. Reports of their observations were ultimately to attract the pioneers who came over the long wagon trails to the far-off lands of the West. For even as the Walker Party neared the rise of ground marking the divide between the Hassayampa River and Lynx Creek, wagon trains were pulling out of Kansas toward Arizona. When the trek had begun, these mountain men found themselves in demand as guides, both for the wagon trains and the military, thus they form, not only the group that did the early American exploration of the vast western area, but the bridge over and by which others came to populate and settle the West-including Arizona.

Pauline Weaver, one of the greatest of the old mountain men, was the first citizen of present day Prescott. He had come to Arizona many years before as he wandered over the entire Western region and was sufficiently informed of the area to be the guide for the Mormon Battalion that crossed the territory in 1847. Of course, he had not remained in one place for long. He had returned from California as guide to the so-called Peeple's or Weaver's Party, which discovered the gold strikes at Rich Hill and Weaver (both within the present Yavapai County) and was living on Granite Creek near the present site of Prescott when the Walker Party arrived in 1863. In July of 1863, some six months before Governor Goodwin's party was to reach the newly created. Arizona Territory on December 27, 1863, Pauline Weaver had laid possession to a quarter-section of land situated on the Hassayampa River at a point now known as Walnut Grove. The record of this was dated in Prescott May 16, 1865 and may be the first pre-emption made in the territory. Pauline Weaver later became attached to the military in Arizona and in his last years was stationed at old Camp Lincoln in the Verde Valley. Upon his death, June 21, 1867, he was buried with military honors there, but later, when the military posts in Arizona were abandoned, the remains from the cemeteries were all removed to the Presidio in San Francisco. At a later time the Boy Scouts of Prescott, with the aid of Alpheus H. Favour, raised funds to have the remains of this grand old mountain man, who had made Yavapai County his final home, removed from the Presidio and returned to Prescott. A giant granite boulder marks his final resting place on the grounds of the Old Governor's House, near the very spot where Charles G. Genung found him camped in the fall of 1863. In following through the life story of Pauline Weaver, the first citizen of Prescott, the course of development has been evaded. Following in the wake of the mountain men, who knew the land as probably no cartographer could record it but many who themselves could not even write their names, came various military survey parties making the records that would prove invaluable to future generations. Among those who helped to chart the later wagon roads and railroad right-of-ways must be mentioned Beale, Ives, Fremont and Whipple.

However, it was the combination of seeking for gold and silver, coupled with the conflict of the Union and the Confederacy, that ultimately brought both the military and government forces into Arizona. There had been settlements in southern Arizona at Tucson and Tubac from the days of the early Spanish efforts. These areas with rich silver mines, plus Yuma and Ehrenberg, had already attracted widespread interest. It was, nevertheless, the gold strikes in the Prescott area, the prevalence of Indian activity in the region and the pressure of military need for the Union cause that brought both the military headquarters and the seat of Territorial government to the banks of Granite Creek in 1864. The location was not only central for the entire Territory, but far removed from southern Arizona and Confederate sympathizers.Military forces had been operating in the Territory for some years from the headquarters in New Mexico. With the establishment of the Arizona Territory, a new military headquarters, under the command of General James H. Carleton, was established by Major E. B. Willis, 1st California Infantry, in December of 1863 at Postle's Ranch near the Del Rio Springs in Chino Valley.

First Territorial Governor John Goodwin apparently had some doubt regarding the place to locate the new Territorial Capitol. In his history of Arizona, McClintock states: "From private sources the author (McClintock) has learned that Goodwin and his cabinet were still in doubt concerning their destination when they arrived, November 14 (1863) at Santa Fe. There, it is told, they proved willing listeners when General Carleton suggested that they strike out into the wilderness of Central Arizona and there, protected by a military post he was establishing (Ft. Whipple), erect a new capital city that should be wholly American, without Mexican or secession influences, within a land wherein rich discoveries had been made, and which, favored by abundant water and timber and by a delightful climate, would seem destined to soon fill with a high class of American residents."

This correlates what actually happened. The Governor's party journeyed on from Santa Fe, pausing within the assured Territorial limits at Navajo Springs to actually bring into being the Territorial government, and proceeded under military escort to the protective site of Ft. Whipple in Chino Valley. miles southwest to a place on the banks of Granite Creek where the modern Veterans Administration Center of Whipple is today. The Territorial government followed, and thus was the site selected that was soon to become Prescott-the first capital of Arizona.

With the gold discoveries at Lynx Creek and Rich Hill, prospectors had begun pouring into the Yavapai country by the hundreds. So, by the time Ft. Whipple was established and the Governor's party had arrived, a sizeable population already had gathered in the "wilderness of Central Arizona."

At the suggestion of Richard McCormick, voiced during a public meeting on May 30, 1864, the name, Prescott, in honor of William Hickling Prescott, the great historian, was chosen for the new capital in the wilderness. Robert Groom had already been working on a survey and plat for the town and early in July construction began on the Governor's mansion, an eight room log structure on Granite Creek. By September of that same year the building was near completion and the Governor and his staff moved into the building.

In this short time a town was growing and the nearby ranchers had a ready market for all they could produce, either for government contracts for the military or the stores and eating houses of the town. In these days Prescott was a riotous town and the beginnings of famous "Whiskey Row" were already discernible. But, also, it should be recalled that a minister, the Rev. W. H. Reed, came as a member of the Governor's party and so it appears that both of the elements that were to prove important, if not consonant, in the building of the Prescott that was to be, were already present.

Things went well in Prescott with the combination of Government and Military leadership setting the patterns of cultural growth, along with the many substantial merchants and professional men that soon came to locate in the new town. Since both the military personnel and the government officials were definitely of loyal Union background, much of the tradition of New England and the already well established Northwest Territory and Midwest ways were transferred to this new "city of the wilderness." It can be said that General Carleton's prophecy regarding the town's and region's development was to be fulfilled, for this area, unlike some of the others in Arizona, was destined to be "old line" American from its very beginning and for its development to the modern day.

As we have indicated, not all of those who came in the early days of the Territory or before its official designation, were miners and merchants. There were early cattle ranchers and small farmers, and the reports of the rich farm lands of the Verde Valley were soon to beckon to some of those arriving from the agricultural areas of the East and Midwest. In 1864 a sturdy group of emigrants moved into the Verde Valley and established themselves at the point where Clear Creek joins the Verde River. They began farming some of the same lands that had supported the migrations of ancients that had long ago preceded them. Thus began the present day settlement of the Verde Valley, marked each year by the Pioneer's Picnic held on the first Sunday in October at the camp grounds at Montezuma Well.

Soon after the arrivals of these settlers in the Verde Valley there occurred some notorious Apache raids which led to the establishment of Camp Lincoln as a sub-post of Ft. Whipple in 1864. The location was later moved and the name changed in turn to Ft. Lincoln and Ft. Verde. There remains today some of the original buildings of Ft. Verde where an interesting museum is now housed. Recently a very colorful organization has come into being known as the Camp Verde Cavalry. Composed of fifteen men, the mounted troop wears authentic uniforms used by the officers of the cavalry in the period of the old Fort's days of activity. Such organizations of varying purpose are perpetuating the heritage of the past in this historic region of Yavapai.

Other areas of settlement had occurred in Central Arizona, especially by some hardy pioneers who had been attracted by wide valleys of tall grass and well watered areas. Specifically is to be mentioned Chino Valley and along Granite Creek, and in the areas of Walnut Grove on the lower Hassayampa, Walnut Creek, Kirkland Creek, Skull Valley, Peeple's Valley, Williamson Valley and Date Creek, and in even some more remote regions where small oases were found in the high mountain "parks." The early farmers and ranchers, as well as the early miners, all had to be alert and usually worked in pairs-one actually doing the labor while the other stood watch against marauding Apaches. But thus the frontier was won.

The Yavapai country has always been a combination of mining and agriculture and the two are intertwined over the entire period of more than twelve centuries. Because while the earliest inhabitants seem to have had attainments as agriculturists, they also opened at least three mines in those ancient times. These were a pipe stone mine near Del Rio Springs, a salt mine near Camp Verde and the copper mines in the Black Hills near Jerome.

The heart of Yavapai County has been, in many ways, its mining of mineral resources that pursuit of the earth's riches that takes energy, daring, luck and ofttimes a touch of humor with scientific knowledge. At times this heart has palpitated in wild bonanzas, or beat strongly in richness, at times it has fluttered weakly for some areas, but never for the county as a whole has it ever ceased beating nor dimmed the visions of man in searching for new fields to develop. Since August and September 1957, when 500 mining claims were filed in the Eureka area along the Santa Maria River as part of the uranium boom, approximately 4,000 claims have been filed in Yavapai County. The search continues.

The earth's bounty for Yavapai has been roughly 885 million dollars since mining first began here. The county to date leads all others in Arizona in total production of gold and copper with better than three and a half million ounces of gold and three and a half million tons of copper taken from her mines. The 1958-1959 mining output was just over ten million dollars.

The fluttering heart of mining at times spelled the doom for once thriving communities in Yavapai when mines played out or cost of operations proved uneconomical. Many of the oldest bonanza mines and townsites, today are but picturesque ruins, yet many of the communities have held on tenaciously to develop new enterprises and provide fine living for their residents.

The story of mining in Yavapai County holds all the peril of Indian attacks, the wildness of gold camps, the joy of discoveries and the hard work of taking these riches from the earth.

The magic word "gold" cast its first spell in Yavapai around 1837. According to Homer R. Wood in his leaflet, "The History of Mining in Yavapai County" (1935), Captain Joseph R. Walker discovered the metal on a journey through this area, but didn't realize it was gold until years later. In 1861 Walker or-

NOTES FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS CAMERA TOUR OF YAVAPAI COUNTY CAN BE BOTH REWARDING AND INTERESTING OPPOSITE PAGE

"ROCKY SPLENDOR OF GRANITE DELLS" BY HUBERT A. LOWMAN. 4x5 Brand-17 View camera; Ektachrome E-1; f.11 at 1/10th sec.; 5" Ektar lens; late summer; early morning sunlight; ASA rating 12. Granite Dells, shown here, is about a half-mile off U.S. 89, to the right, proceeding north, just out of Prescott. Sign points the way to area. Usually a photographer must get up before breakfast to catch such a reflection, before the wind comes up. This is the method used here. Sunlight was still quite weak that early in the morning, necessitating 1½ stops extra exposure. The Dells is a popular recreation center for residents of Prescott, and is one of the scenic show places of Yavapai County.

FOLLOWING PAGES

"PRESCOTT, ARIZONA" BY MATT CULLEY. 4x5 Speed Graphic camera; Ektachrome; f.16 at 1/25th sec.; f4.5 Kodak Ektar 5" coated lens; August; bright sunlight; ASA rating 12. Photograph was taken from Senator Highway about one-fourth mile from edge of Prescott. The view is looking northwest over Prescott with Granite Mountain in the center background. In center of photo are the Federal Building and the Yavapai County Courthouse in the central Plaza. In right distance is Prescott Heights with Miller Valley in left center distance. Prescott was established in 1864 and was named after the historian. Ottmar Mergenthaler, whose linotype invention revolutionized printing, was a resident of Prescott in the early '80's. Fiorello La Guardia, famous American, lived at Fort Whipple while his father was bandmaster at the post (1892-1897).

"RODEO PARADE-PRESCOTT" BY BOB BRADSHAW. 4x5 Crown Graphic camera; E-3 Ektachrome; f.11 at 1/100th sec.; Ektar lens; bright sunlight; light value of 15 on G.E. DW68 meter; ASA rating 50. The Frontier Days celebration in Prescott, held each year over the Fourth of July holidays, is a merry time for residents and visitors alike. The town goes Western in a great big way starting off with the parade and ending with the topnotch Frontier Days rodeo. Prescott celebrated its first Frontier Days and Cowboy Festival July 4, 1888. This is Montezuma Street, locally known as Whiskey Row. The Row was destroyed by fire in 1900 but was soon rebuilt. During the rebuilding thirsty miners, soldiers and cowboys had service as usual in Courthouse Plaza across the street (to the left in this photograph).

"WATSON LAKE NEAR PRESCOTT" BY MATT CULLEY. 4x5 Speed Graphic camera; Ektachrome; f.16 at 1/50th sec.; 5" Kodak Ektar-coated lens; August; bright sunlight; ASA rating 12. Lake Watson is located three miles north of Prescott on U.S. 89. The lake offers fishing, boating, and water skiing throughout the summer months.

"CASTLE HOT SPRINGS" BY BOB BRADSHAW. 4x5 Crown Graphic camera; Ektachrome: f.8 at 1/50th sec.; Ektar lens; March; bright sunlight; light value of 15 on DW 68 meter; ASA rating 12. Castle Hot Springs resort, one of Arizona's famed hostelries, is located twenty-four miles west of Morristown in a setting of unusual desert beauty. The Hot Springs were discovered by George Monroe and Ed Farley in 1874. They built the first road to the Springs and called them Monroe Hot Springs. The Weekly Arizona Miner reported in 1877 the waters of the springs were able to clean a "miner's shirt after a three months' prospecting tour in about five minutes."

Organized a party to return to what is now the Prescott-Groom Creek area, reaching here in early 1863 after many Indian raids. “They felled trees and built a corral in a hollow square that the savages could not break through,” Wood wrote. Later they built a log cabin or fort and from this stronghold parties went out in all directions to prospect.

Wood goes on to say that “early in May, 1863, Sam Miller and four others went up Lynx Creek” and the discovery of gold-$4.80 worth in the first pan-led to three things. Walker moved the main camp to Lynx Creek and the town of Walker began, he called the first “mineral meeting” in this area with twenty-four men present, and established the first mining district. Lynx Creek developed into the greatest stream bed in Arizona and with dredging operations in modern day, eventually was to yield two million dollars in gold.

In 1863, also, A. H. Peeples, for whom the valley is named, and his guide, Pauline Weaver, discovered acres of gold nuggets on the flat mesa top of Rich Hill, located just below the rim of present day Yarnell. Charles H. Dunning, in his new book, “Rock to Riches” (1959), decribes Rich Hill as the “richest single placer discovery ever made in Arizona.” Finding of the Lynx Creek and Rich Hill gold fields set the future for not only Yavapai but all Arizona. News of the gold brought prospectors by the hundreds. It also reached back to our nation's capital and thus influenced Governor Goodwin's decision on where the Territorial capital was to be located. Fort Whipple was built, Prescott was the first capital, and the gold miners had army protection from the Indians. The mining of mineral resources in Yavapai boomeranged-gold, silver and copper-from the Verde Valley, through the mountains to the desert.

Rich gold placers in the Lynx Creek, Rich Hill, Hassayampa and Big Bug (above present Mayer) districts soon flourished. In 1872, when Apache wars ended and the Indians were on reserva-tions, the miners no longer needed the proximity of army forts for protection and hence roamed far afield through the Brad-shaws, the Black Hills and all other ranges-this time in search of silver-then priced higher than gold. Richard J. Hinton in “Hand-book to Arizona” (1878), states that “up to October 1, 1876, of 11,605 mines located and recorded in the Territory, 7,298 were in the county of Yavapai.” The silver boom roared from the 1870's to 1893. The fabulous Tip Top mine, best silver producer in the county, was located on Humbug Creek (not far from today's Rock Springs on Black Canyon Highway), and was to produce nearly two and a quarter million dollars. The Peck Mine (between Crown King and Wagoner) yielded one and a half million dollars before it was worked out in 1879. A wagon road from the mine to Prescott later became Senator Highway, one of today's most scenic drives through the Bradshaws.

When silver fell in price, the interest in gold was renewed. Copper, however, forged ahead as king and all mining in Yavapai was given new impetus by the completion of the two transcontinental railroads, specifically the Prescott & Arizona Central (Bullock) that reached Prescott from Seligman on January 1, 1887.

To complete the gold story, new mines were discovered that yielded fabulous wealth in comparatively short time. Octave (east of Congress Junction) was to produce four million dollars; Congress, better than seven and a half million dollars; McCabe (on Big Bug) two and one half to three million dollars; Crown King, two million dollars. The Hassayampa district developed strongly after the Walnut Grove dam was built in 1888 and the lake it created supplied miners with adequate water. Tragic end to this gold prosperity enjoyed by thousands working the region came after a heavy rain in 1896. The dam burst, sending a wall of water down the river course, washing out camps and settlements with great loss of life.

Prime mining emphasis after 1900 was on copper, and gold lagged in interest until the depression days. The establishment of higher gold prices in 1933 revived activity in most of the old gold camps; unemployed men and families from many other states also found they could “earn their beans” by working the hills. There are still active gold mines in the county and many mining claims are filed and worked each year, but today's gold production is

NOTES FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS Continued

CENTER PANEL “SHEEP CROSSING-VERDE RIVER” BY DICK CARTER. 4x5 Linhoff camera; Ektachrome; f.20 at 1/50th sec.; Angulon 90mm lens; November; Meter reading Norwood 225; ASA rating 64. The sheep bridge shown here is in a picturesque setting at the end of the road as it terminates at the bank of the Verde River in the Bloody Basin country in the southeast area of the Tonto National Forest in Yavapai County. It is about forty miles east of Highway 69 on the Horseshoe Ranch Road. The graded road is very good to a point a few miles beyond the Horseshoe Ranch. Further on it roughs up a bit. The photographer says: “I certainly would not advise anything less than a pickup truck in making the trip.” Bloody Basin opens up to a terrific view just before the road winds its way down to the Verde and there is a nice spot at the bridge for a picnic lunch. The sheep bridge, as the word implies, is used by the sheep drivers to transport their sheep at this spot over the Verde River. The suspension type bridge is about 350 feet long but only thirty inches wide, with high wooden sides.

On ranch on September 20, 1867. Mrs. Stevens sent word to him to stay in town but to send her ammunition.” The Dells is today a popular recreation area which includes lakes, a clear stream (Granite Creek), shade trees and picnic areas.

“IN CHINO VALLEY” BY CARLOS ELMER. 4x5 Burke & James Press camera; Anscochrome; f.16 at 1/50th sec.; 6” Goertz Aerotar lens; spring; late afternoon; meter reading 250; ASA rating 32. Chino Valley, in northern Yavapai County, traversed by U.S. 89, is a peaceful farming area.

“BLACK CANYON COUNTRY-YAVAPAI COUNTY” BY DAVID MUENCH. 4x5 Graphic View camera; Ektachromedaylight type; f.25 at 1/5th sec.; Zeis Tessar 8” lens; early April; sunny, clear day; meter reading 400; ASA rating 10. View is along State Highway 69 south of Bumble Bee on the Black Canyon Highway, where the road reaches about 4,000 feet in elevation. The desert drops sharply away giving the spectator a fine breadth of view over interesting desert highlands, valley and distant mountains.

“YAVAPAI PANORAMA” BY BOB DAVY. This sweeping panorama gives some idea of the ruggedness and spaciousness of parts of Yavapai County.

“GRANITE DELLS-PRESCOTT” BY BOB DAVY. The beautiful and extensive garden of massive rocks is near Prescott on U.S. 89. Arizona Place Names reports: “In the early days it was a dangerous spot because it formed a perfect place for Indian attacks. The mail rider was frequently attacked here. In 1867 the place was owned by Louis A. Stevens (d. 1878). While he was attending legislative meetings in Prescott, Apaches attacked his OPPOSITE PAGE “SUMMER-HORSE THIEF BASIN” BY BUD DE WALD. 4x5 Speed Graphic camera; Anscochrome; f.13 at 1/50th sec.; f4.7 Graflex Optar lens; August; bright sunny day; 250 ft. candles; ASA rating 32. Horse Thief Basin is a summer recreation area located about fifty miles north of Phoenix and is situated in the high and cool Bradshaw Mountains. In conjunction with the U.S. Forest Service, the city of Phoenix maintains the area as a summer camping and recreation area.

Cattle country-Yavapai County

Largely as a recoverable metal from copper, lead and zinc ores. Largest source is from Iron King Mine near Humboldt, Arizona's largest producer of lead and zinc.

The impact of copper on Yavapai County began in 1876 when M. A. Ruffner discovered an out-cropping of ore and located two claims in the present Jerome area. These claims, along with adjacent ones, in time became the producing properties of the United Verde Copper Company, organized in 1882. In 1880 Dr. James A. Douglas had been sent by eastern financiers to investigate and, finding no railroad possibilities, had advised them not to invest. Eugene Jerome, for whom the town was named, was an officer in the first operating company and interestingly was the grandfather of former British Prime Minister Winston Churchill.

The United Verde constructed a small reduction plant and built a wagon road to Ash Fork, on the Santa Fe Railroad, to haul freight by mule and ox team the sixty miles. Dr. Douglas again showed interest in the mine when production lagged, but in 1888 Senator W. A. Clark of Montana assumed control of the copper company, which was to become the richest individually owned copper mine in the world.

The town of Jerome, propped on the 30 degree side of Cleopatra Mountain some two thousand feet above the floor of the Verde Valley, zoomed in size. Senator Clark built the Montana House, the largest stone structure in Arizona and capable of housing one thousand men-but Jerome itself, with too many tents and shacks, wooden restaurants and saloons, was burned out three times between 1897 and 1899. After its incorporation in 1899, the fifth largest city in Arizona, the town developed on a neater plan, into the fascinating yet seemingly precarious pattern of structures glued to the mountainside. Another community, Clarkdale, company-owned and orderly, was created in 1915 when United Verde built a new smelter.

Alongside the United Verde development was established another copper mining operation on what was to prove to be the faulted top of the entire United Verde ore body. George Hull

In Chino Valley

and J. J. Fisher had located the claim, just down the mountain from United Verde, and named it Little Daisy. In 1912 James S. Douglas, Jr. (nicknamed Rawhide) and two partners, George Tener and Major A. J. Pickrell, took over, continued the exploration and hit real copper paydirt. They found the faulted top-at the 1,400 foot level, 300 feet of fifteen per cent ore; then 40 feet of forty per cent, and at the 1,500 foot level, 5 feet of forty-five per cent ore. The UVX built a smelter at Clemenceau and until 1938, when the mine played out, one hundred twentyfive million dollars in copper was grossed.

By 1929 United Verde's operations in Jerome had increased the population of that city to fifteen thousand, including two thousand three hundred forty-five working miners, and more copper was coming out of Arizona than any other state. United Verde itself produced twenty-nine million dollars worth of ore in one year. But when the depression-driven price of copper dropped to five cents, United Verde closed its mine and smelter and only four thousand seven hundred forty-eight residents remained in Jerome.

Phelps Dodge Corporation bought the company three years later, reopened mine and smelter and worked both feverishly during World War II to meet supply demands. When the grade of ore no longer merited the expense, Phelps Dodge closed its smelter in 1950 and the mine in January, 1953. During its seventy years of active life, the mine had produced values of about one-half billion dollars in copper, gold and silver. Copper production there has not ceased altogether, however, for an open pit operation has been under lease from Phelps Dodge for the past few years and some believe the ultimate story of Jerome might be a vast open pit on the entire mountainside.

Jerome, after the mine closed, became a ghost town, but a loyal band of faithful residents have refused to let it die. They have developed a fine mine museum, an art gallery with the Verde Valley Artists, and laud the ghost time legend in an annual All Ghosts Night each autumn.

Clarkdale underwent drastic changes, too. The townsite was first purchased by the late Earl Halliburton and homes sold as it developed into a haven for retired people. Today Clarkdale again is the industrial center of the Verde Valley. It is incorporated and the Halliburton interests purchased by William Zeckendorf, President of Webb and Knapp Company, the nation's largest real estate firm. It is his company that has plans for a steel mill, utilizing the old United Verde smelter to rework a slag pile estimated to contain one billion dollars in metals.

The real shot-in-the-arm for the entire Verde Valley was the dedication on October 30, 1959, of the sixteen million dollar plant of the Phoenix Cement Company, a division of American Cement Corporation, at Clarkdale. Utilizing a limestone deposit considered almost inexhaustible, the plant has a payroll of about one hundred thirty and a daily production of fifty-five hundred barrels of cement. Phoenix Cement's major output for the next five years will go into supplying five million yards of concrete for the construction of Glen Canyon Dam.

Today's largest copper producer in Yavapai County is Bagdad Copper Company. The mine was discovered in 1880 and worked fitfully under some eight different companies. In 1944 the late John C. Lincoln acquired control and it was decided to open pit mine the ore. The result is stepped up production and the development of the fine community of Bagdad.

The Iron King mine at Humboldt, mentioned previously as Arizona's largest zinc and lead producer, also is the fourth largest producer of gold and silver in the state today. The mine's history is relatively short, but packed with accomplishment. Though discovered early in the twentieth century, it wasn't until 1934, when Fred Gibbs of Prescott bought the mine and built a 100-ton mill that the real potential of the ore body began to be used. In 1942 the Shattuck-Denn Mining Corporation purchased Iron King and the mill capacity was increased to 1000 tons a day. Today diggings at great depths still show no sign the deposit is decreasing.

In this modern age's need for various other minerals in increasing amounts, practically every one has been located somewhere in the county. Important uranium property is along the Santa Maria River in southwest Yavapai, there is mica in Peeples Valley, lithium near Kirkland, manganese in the Congress Junction area, large sand and gravel sources by Ash Fork and in the Verde, scoria north of Paulden and the largest deposits of crude thenardite in the United States are in the Verde Valley near Camp Verde, ready to be worked. Of all natural resources besides those in the large minings mentioned earlier, the most valuable today are in the stone quarries and forests of the county. Flagstone (Coconino sandstone) in its wide variety of colors from off-white to buff and shades of red and purple is in wide demand for patios, houses, store fronts and other decorative uses. It is the most popular stone produced in Arizona today and is found, in its various hues, in the Ask Fork, Seligman and Drake vicinities. Marble also is to be found near Mayer and granite near Prescott.

Cattle ranching since the first Territorial days has had an influence equal with mining on the growth and development of Yavapai County. Cattle herds, driven in from California, Texas and the prairie states, were a necessity to feed the military, growing communities and miners. Rich grazing land in wide valleys and mountain areas attracted the early rancher even though marauding Indians meant constant guard on the herds. Data on the first herds into Yavapai has never been authenticated-it is hoped that some day the true story of ranching in this great cattle county will be written. There must have been some cattle around Del Rio Springs when the military established the first Fort Whipple there because Lt. Whipple wrote of Mexican families living at the springs in 1853. Robert Postle took over 500 acres by the springs for a ranch in 1865. Years later the rich meadowland at Del Rio was used by Fred Harvey to winter pasture the mules used on the trails at Grand Canyon, and water from the springs was hauled in tank cars by the Santa Fe Railroad to supply all the needs at Grand Canyon, and at the towns of Ash Fork and Seligman.

From most records it is believed that J. Q. Stephens brought in a herd of cattle in 1864, settling in the Camp Wood area, and in Williamson Valley. The Ehle family brought a herd into Yavapai over the old Beale trail from Albuquerque and about 1866 James Baker came into Chino Valley with a herd from California. Texas longhorn herds were brought to upper Verde Valley, cattle moved into Peeples Valley, and every wagon train into the area brought some cattle. Building of the Santa Fe railroad across northern Arizona brought cattle in by rail to go on Yavapai ranches and the number of ranches increased rapidly. Pioneer ranchers developed their spreads into huge cattle outfits, running thousands of head, all on open range. The early herds were a general mixture of range cattle, but they laid the foundation for up-breeding to the fine beef cattle on Yavapai ranches today. In Echoes of the Past, published in 1955 by The Yavapai Cow Belles of Arizona, Gail Gardner wrote that "when the cattlemen of Arizona began to sell their cattle by the pound instead of by the head, it was the beginning of the end of wild cattle."

The days of unlimited, open range were closed with the establishment of Prescott Forest in 1898 and the governmental order in 1907 that required ranchers to pay a grazing fee for cattle using forest land. Today's ranching is on fenced range with an estimated 17,250 miles of four-strand fencing in Yavapai County. There are some 1,100,000 patented acres of grazing land, as well as over one and a half million acres of national forests taken up by grazing permits.

Sound range management, good cow-sense and just plain grit have weathered most Yavapai cattlemen through the lean years in the past that have hit every cattleman in the United States.

The desperate days of 1933, when ranchers were cattle poor, brought about the famous Yavapai Cattle Growers' calf-plan-sale. To support the work of the American National Live Stock Association, each member gave a weaner calf or the equivalent in money. About 100 calves were gathered at Kirkland and in the sale brought three quarters cent per pound. The now famous $1,000 check was presented to the American National and the plan adopted by other cattle groups in the country to stimulate beef sales.

Since that day the Yavapai Calf Sale has become an annual event in September and the prices at each sale are a consistent forecast of what cattle will sell for that fall. Held on the Hayes ranch in Peeples Valley, the sale and barbecue bring together a genial gathering of thousands of friends, providing one of the prime stomping grounds for political campaigning as well as the serious buying of calves.

Ranch in hills of Yavapai

The diversity of Yavapai's cattle ranching follows the pattern of variety predominant in other factors in the county. Most ranchers have developed some farming operation to raise at least part of their supplemental feed. White-faced Herefords are in the majority, but there also are herds of cream Charrollaise, black Aberdeen-Angus, red Santa Gertrudis, brahmas and cross-bred cattle. There are commercial herds, registered breeding herds and feeder operations.

In the county today are 220 cattle ranches-ranging from 40-50 acres to some with more than 200,000 acres. Ash Fork Livestock Company, which has the largest herd of Charrollaise in the state, and Greene Cattle Company, whose land includes the Baca Float, an old Spanish grant dating back to 1821, are probably the largest. A registered breeding ranch of national reputation is Long Meadow Ranch whose clear-pedigreed Herefords are located in Williamson Valley where Stephens had his early cattle herd in the 1860's.

There is an annual count of close to 100,000 head of cattle in Yavapai; the largest herd has some 2,700 mother cows and the largest cattle feeder finishes out about 2,500 head a year. Ranching is big business-the second most valuable in the county.

Along with cattle, early ranchers also brought in fine horses and large scale horse ranches flourished for many years to meet the demand for saddle and buggy horses, cow ponies and military mounts. One of the largest was the Baker & Campbell 76 outfit, whose early range stretched from Chino Valley to what is now Perkinsville. Quarterhorses have been and are of high value in Yavapai and there have been important thoroughbred ranches in the county. It is known that at the turn of the century John Marksberry brought into the Verde Valley a famous quarterhorse stallion, Old Crowder, whose blood line is carried down to horses in the county today. Yavapai quarterhorses have made fine racing records and won top placing in shows throughout the country, including the Prescott Quarter Horse Show which will hold its 14th Annual meet in September. Horse racing with pari-mutuel betting is featured every summer at the county fairgrounds track

Home on the range

The Pacific coast, came not overland, but by ships around the horn to San Diego, Los Angeles and San Francisco. From there boats negotiated the Gulf of California and up the Colorado River with goods for wagon freighters to carry inward to Arizona. The two main routes used from the Colorado to supply the new Territorial Capital were from Ehrenburg to Desert Wells, across the desert to Date Creek, then to Kirkland, Skull Valley and through Iron Springs and the Sierra Prieta mountains to reach Prescott, much as the present line of the Santa Fe Railroad on its famous Peavine. The other road was from Hardyville on the river, through Hualapai country to Fort Rock, then to Walnut Creek and into Prescott. Soon another route was much in use within the Territory connecting the central and southern regions and this road followed rather closely the present Highway 69 or Black Canyon Highway from Prescott. Stage coach service followed shortly, the lighter loads and faster horses making travel rough but quicker. The ruts in all roads were worn deeper as wagon trains of new families arrived from east and west.

By the mid 1880's the Santa Fe Railroad had finally completed its route from Chicago to San Francisco across northern Arizona and the rich rewards of gold, silver and copper mining and growing ranching necessitated a railroad to Prescott. In 1886 T. C. Bullock began construction of a rail line the Prescott and Arizona Central-from Seligman to Prescott and the first train arrived there on January 1, 1887. In 1893 the Santa Fe, under the corporate title of the Santa Fe, Prescott and Phoenix, brought a new line from Ash Fork to Prescott which soon proved more efficient than Bullock's railroad. Thus the Territorial Capital and Yavapai County had railroad connections tying them to both coasts.

Communication goes hand in hand with transportation and it is interesting to note that the telegraph, which connected Fort Whipple to the outside world, was put into operation on November 11, 1873. Telephone service came to Prescott in 1899 with 34 original subscribers. Just 60 years later the number of subscribers has reached 6,049.

Today the old Indian trails and freighting roads have been replaced by fine modern highways. U. S. Highways. 66, 89, 80а, 79, 69 and 95 all cross Yavapai County and give open invitation to all who would come from near or far to visit this land of enchantment. The highways and byways take you to and through the scenic splendors and to the lasting evidence of men's accomplishment.

There are two airports in the county, Prescott and Cottonwood, in addition to numerous private and small community landing strips. The Prescott airport is served by both Frontier Airlines and Bonanza Airlines, connecting with other major lines for all points in the United States and foreign lands.

Transportation also has played an important role in the modern development of industry in Prescott, with railroad, highways and air freight available. Royal Manufacturing Company, recently purchased by The Celanese Corporation of America, is a leading producer of plastic squeeze bottles and other items and has its own truck fleet. Prescott Sportswear and Thunderbird Fashions, designers and makers of fine western clothing and squaw dresses, and the Moryart sport shirt factory have good employment totals, and with the big government payroll from Whipple Veterans Administration Center, forest service and other civil offices, in addition to the railroad, provide financial backing for Prescott.

In an arid land the development of hydro-electric power is not as easy as in the eastern lands of many streams. In 1890 Lew Turner filed for the water rights on Fossil Springs flowing regularly forty-three cubic feet of water per second, and in 19oz was able to interest capital that finally in 1907 developed these resources. Under the old Arizona Power Company of Prescott (now a part of Arizona Public Service) electric power was generated that gave great impetus to the large scale mining developments and made possible modern living throughout the area, in both cities and towns and on ranches. In more recent years the generators at both Hoover and Davis Dams have greatly increased the availability of power throughout all of Yavapai and Arizona.

Strange as it might appear, there has been an intertwining of military activity, the development of health services and the coming of health seekers to this region of Arizona. Undoubtedly the first medical men arrived with the army, and the fine modern Veterans Administration Center at Whipple stands on the site of the old Fort established in 1864. The events that brought about these conditions are interesting to all who have any concern about how changing conditions bring new answers.

It was from Whipple that General George Crook directed his operations against the Apaches and from there that General Nelson A. Miles completed the task in which Crook had accomplished so much. With the end of the Indian Wars, the need for troops diminished and after serving as a rallying point for many of Teddy Roosevelt's Rough Riders, the post was abandoned in 1898. Regarrisoned from 1901-1913, Fort Whipple opened again in May, 1918, as a tuberculosis hospital for soldiers, was taken over by the Public Health Service in 1910, a new hospital built, and in 1922 transferred to the Veteran's Bureau. Located on the 1,700 acre military reservation, 57-building Whipple Veterans Administration Center has hospital accommodations for 382 beds, approximately one-third for tuberculosis patients, the remaining for general medical and surgical, and a Domiciliary of 159 beds. It has 433 employees, including 21 physicians and surgeons and 3 dentists.

The Arizona Pioneer's home, built in 1911 on a hill that affords a sweeping view of Prescott and the surrounding mountains, has resident and hospital facilities for 175 guests, both men and wonen. Those admitted to the Home must be 35-year residents of the state.

Yavapai County Hospital, with excellent new additions made recently, is in Prescott and two private hospitals, Prescott Community and Marcus J. Lawrence Memorial in Cottonwood, provide fine facilities reachable by all areas of the county. A small company hospital is maintained in Bagdad. In the Verde Valley and Prescott are well trained professional people in the field of medicine and law, numbering among them respected members of the American College of Surgeons, the American College of General Practitioners and of the American Bar Association, most of whom are located in Prescott since it is the county seat.

The schools of Arizona are well rated on national levels and probably none are better than those within Yavapai County. The schools range from the still remote one-room schools in the smallest communities to fine grade and high schools in the larger centers, such as Mingus High School in the Verde Valley and the Prescott schools. St. Joseph's Academy has just completed seventy-five years of successful operation in Prescott, and two fine private or independent schools are located in Yavapai. The Orme Ranch School is near Mayer and the Verde Valley School in the red rock country near Sedona. Both are members of the American Association of Independent Schools and have attained high standards as is witnessed by the admission of their graduates into the better colleges and universities of the country. This same testimony holds for the graduates of the public schools.

At the first of the year county-wide enrollment in public schools listed 4,200 students in twenty-six elementary schools and 1,500 students in the seven high schools. Educational advantages for Yavapai residents also include adult night courses given in various high schools, university extension courses and summer art classes sponsored by the University of Arizona in Prescott.

It was probably within Yavapai County that Protestantism staked its first claims in Arizona. Will Barnes in Arizona Place Names states that the first Protestant church in Arizona was a Presbyterian church organized in Prescott in 1864, the Methodists lay claim, and possibly with justification, to establishing the first church in Prescott, and the Baptists came early to the Verde Valley. Certainly Protestant churches followed the nominally Protestant leadership of government and emigrants from the old line American regions into Yavapai. Roman Catholicism developed early in Southern Arizona under the influence of the early Padres, but was a comparative late arrival in Prescott. Mormons came into northern Arizona from Utah at an early time, but their migration in numbers into the Yavapai County area was somewhat later. Today there are some 30 churches in Prescott representing almost all of the usual denominational groups in other regions and more. Churches have been developed in most of the areas of the county and today few people find themselves out of reach of a church capable of meeting their religious needs.