Old Yavapai is Cattle Country

OLD YAVAPAI IS

The early days of the castle industry in Yavapai Country are replete with the names of people who lived and events that happened back in those times when the area was first being settled although only too often a note of sad ness creeps in when one comes across the names of these rugged pioneers who are no longer ensured-they who know only too well and lived through these trying times and, having completed their work here, have ridden on over that last distant horizon in search of new adventure. One can only hope that per haps they may have found new ranges as open as warm those they first knew in Yavapai County. In memory of these old-timers we have a heritage to cherish for all time.

For the purpose of this story only the area covered by Yavapai County today will be considered and not the early day area that extended east to the New Mexico line. Little or nothing has been written about these early days, and hence the main reliance must be placed on those now living in the first and second generations, who can recall things that their parents and others may have told them about that early life on Yavapai ranges. Since memories do not always serve their own too well, some of the early beginnings of ranches recorded here may be at slight variance with the true facts. However, the main thing is for some of these early names to be written on the pages of history before they are lost forever. As to the actual start of the cattle industry in Yavapai County we find one of the few written records in a story by James E. Kister wherein he makes the state ment that the first cattle was brought into the county in 1864 by a man named Stevens and were located in Williamson Valley about twenty-five miles northwest of Prescott. This was corroborated by a similar statement in McClintock's History, "Arizona, the Youngest State" with the added information that the number brought in was forty head. Thus it seems that the beef cattle indus try can celebrate its centennial along with Prescott in the year of 1964. Other scant records reveal that in 1866 James Baker brought in a small bunch of cattle from California and that in the following year he brought in some four hundred head of Mexican cattle from the Pecos River country in Texas. With this small beginning cattle started coming in rapidly and by the late seventies there were about a hundred and thirty brands of record and probably an equal number not recorded since recording of brands was not required until after the Act of February 2, 1885. A short article in the Courier - dated August 4, 1882 - stated that there was between eighty and a hundred thousand cattle in the county with room for five times that many. How erroneous this latter statement was come to light during the severe drought years of 1894 and 1895 when cattle died by the thousands from star vation. There were perhaps close to a hundred and fifty thousand cattle on the ranges before the drought and estimates made at the time seem to indicate that perhaps a third of this number were lost by 1896. At any rate, in this latter year some forty thousand cattle - repre senting over a hundred and thirty different brands were shipped out by rail from Del Rio, and only scat tered remnants were left in the county..

Most of the early stock coming into the county was of very poor grade from Old Mexico and Texas. Along in the eighties several small bunches of Shorthorn cattle were brought in from Oregon and northern California. About the same time George E. Brown was said to have brought in perhaps the first white face cattle and located them just east of Cordes. Charles and Tom Eusen also

CATTLE COUNTRY

brought in same white face cattle to the Clout Creek area in Verde Valley. There were perhaps many others act of record but the fact remains that the quality of stock generally did not improve much until some years after the turn of the century.

Going back to where our story began with the arrival of the flot cattle in Yavepal County, it seems early logical that we begin to meet some of those early ploncas who beived the hardshipe of the thoes, incked ing the eve-possat danger of Indiza saids, and hollt the cattle inkestty up from thet small beginning in 1864, and what would be moss appropriate than to start on the Long Meadow Ranch near where those first cattle was located. The Long Meadow Ranch was started back in the early sightiss by Joe Staphers - who came from Oregon with his father in 1880 - ming the Diamond and a Half (A) beend. This outfit is now owned by Place Farma Inc., using the Walking T(A) brand, along with the Las Vegas Ranch - started by P. J. McCormick in the mid-sighdes - where the Qouter Cacle LV () brand is used.

Most of the old-time ranches changed hands may times down through the year and to give all the difer ent owners would requiem several volames; for this remon the passn who either started or owned a mach back near the beginning will be named along with the present day ounce.

Just west of the Long Meadow Ranch lies the 7V (V) outfit - started by Bill Stewart in the late seventies - and now owned by Kamper Chefm. A Budv fecther south we find the Bar U Bar (--) reach holy stented by a man named Ploe and now owned by Scamy and Sesy Walker. North of this Bes the well-known Spicks () outfit stated by Jack Jones in the seventhse - and just recently acquired by Mrs. Margaret Mozi, branding the E Slash : (A). Moving up into the Camp Wood and Walnut Creek ommes we come to ome of the best known of the old-time cutin, the Yolo () Ranch - started by Tip Wilder in the eaty eightles sad now owned by Gil Bock. Nearby was the old 7 UP (UP) anala started in 1882 on Walnut Crack by W. H. Denny, who came in from Oregon. Afte vanching here watil zgos he moved to Califonia and his son Clarence-born on Walnut Cask - orationed the brand and has run cattle over most of the westan part of Yavepal County ever since. Jos Coolsey started a sunch near Camp Wood in the saldalle eighties and non the Wrench S () band. Nosby was the Der 37 (-37) Ranch started in the late eighties by Ned Andrews. North of Camp Wood Bes the Becs Great with headquarters at the Oaks and Willows. This we an old Spanish Grant owned at ons early time by man bers of the Penin family sad now opented by the Groene Caule Co. using the RO bend. East of this we find the Clanega stared by Guy Bennett in the aniddle seventise and banding JML (JM). The out it is now owned by Ray Cowden wing the C brand. North of this is another well known outfit, the Double O (00) starned about 1890 by Jerry Sullivan and now owned by Rex Ellsworth, owner of the famous zase horse Swape. Northwest of the Bara. Grant is the old Fort Rock Rouch established originally as a State Station in the mid-sintes by Lad Becen and laue à cattle mach running the 4 H Diamond (*) brend. The south part of this sanch was owned by Dan Bacon under the Cross U(A) brand. In the Walnut Creek area was another oldtimer, John A. Bozarth, who came west from Indiana in 1887 and established the Lazy H (1) outfit. Below the Double O Reach on Chine Wash there were a number of anall cutits established in the

From with the Hice (0) brand. 1. H. Wingfield started with cattle and farming and later was in grain and store business which the family still owns. One of his producers, Kenny Wingfield, owns the Agatite Maid Ranch and brands Bar S (W). Other old-timers in the Valley were Dave and Joe Mercer using the J M Bar (M) brands Charlie and Tom Brown with the Diamond S (S); Charlie Mock using the 4-4 (4) brands W. N. Fols with x 6. This later group was probably started along in the eighties. Today Neucesue. This area both the 4-4 and Diamond S brands in the same vicinity. Another early outfit that was probably started in the late eighties by Jim Pope & now owned by Frank Gyberg using the 2 Open A (ZA) brand. Other ranches in this area which have consisted old-time outfits are the Miller Bros., running the old Comanche Cattle Company; Bates Brecker with the V Bar V (V) cattle near Rimesville. Ed Fox a little farther north and many others.

Moving north from Camp Verde we find the Florence Pot (S) Ranch owned by Wales Arnold back in the eighties and now owned by Fred Paulk. South of this is the Quarter Circle V Bar (2) started in the seventies by a man named Morrison and now owned by Chick Coats who runs the famous Olive Ranch School. South of this is the old A Dot Ranch started as a sheep ranch in 1874 but turned into a cattle ranch in 1889. On to the East is the T Anchor (1) partly started by a man named McDonald and running into the lands of the Stewart family in 1907, and is now owned by Brad Forester along with the Double T (E) owned prior to 1907 by Jim Alexander and the Lazy UL (2) area owned by Willie Forsbergen. In the same vicinitythe Brown Springs Ranch probably started by Adison Hoek using the Dot Cross Brand and now owned by Jack Stewart running this Bar Cross Bar (-|-).

Going over the mountains to the west, we drop into the Walnut Creek Country. Here we find T. B. Carter who came to Lampasas County in 1878 and finally landed in Walnut Creek in 1888 and took up a homestead. His son, James O. Carter, keeps homesteaded and runs the Nachito (X.) brand north as far as the Bendovera grazing the outfit on to his son Clint who still runs the same ranch-one of few instances where a ranch has stayed in the same family from early days up to the present time. Another pioneer in this section was William Pierce, who purchased the original homestead taken up by Pauline Weaver in 1854. Nearby is the K T Bar (2) outfit owned in the middle eighties by Claude Barnes and now run by Mrs. Pierce. Farther down the Elmsysons is the Diamond a place owned by William Slover to the late seventies and now run by R. C. Lucky.Nearby is the old 3 A outfit, likely started by a man named Jackson. South of Wagoner is a ranch owned by Jim Crimmons in the eighties and now run by John Cooper and his makes, Nell Cooper.

Over in Peoples Valley, to the west, are one of the earliest settlers was Charles George who came down from the states and runs the 4 Triangle Bar (199). Charles son, Ed George, still lives in the Valley, though he has sold his 7 outfit to Mrs. Glen Perry. Though Joe Alford plans-doing back to the ranches-was registered in 1912 by Roy Hays who has run the Bar Middlesex Bar (1) brand there ever since. In recent years he sold part of his land to Don Coughlin who runs the T Lazy C (Jas). Over in the valley, southeast offKirkland, is the old Fred Gaines ranch established in the eighties and running the G brand. This outfit was acquired by Charlie Rigden about 1902 and run in partnership with Jack Lawler. It has been in the Rigden family ever since, being run today by Tom Rigden under the G Spear (6) brand. Just South of Kirkland is an old-time ranch acquired by Clint Carter and today operated by Earl Carter. Just west of Kirkland we find a ranch started back in the seventies by a man named Robinson and today run by F. N. Bard using the N O brand. Still farther down Kirkland Creek is the Solomon Jackson place started by him in the late eighties and now known as the Toe Hold Ranch owned by Jack Walden, using the Y 4 (4) brand. Still farther West is the ranch started by William Kirkland about 1864 using the double V (V) brand. Acquired by Ed Ritter in 1908 this ranch still remains in the Ritter family being run by Curtis Ritter using the same brand. Just south of Hillside Jacob Ritter settled on a place about 1882 and ran the T Upside down brand and this is still run by Charlie Weeks. Also near Hillside is the old O U outfit started by Sam Miller and now run by Mrs. Orville Hazelwood. North of Yava lies the old Mule Shoe (0) ranch probably started by a man named Schultz and now run by L. K. Lindahl together with the SH outfit owned in the early days by a man named Skip.

Dinnertime!

So much for a few of the old-time ranches and the men responsible for starting them or at least having a hand in their early development. Many more ranches as well as pioneer men, equally deserving of mention, have necessarily been passed over due to lack of space and in many instances to the absence of information on them.

While the pioneer cattlemen were, of course, the prime force in developing the range cattle industry in Yavapai County, there were other factors that undoubtedly played an important, though perhaps indirect part. Perhaps the most important of these was the old-time general merchant who not only supplied all the essential needs of the cattlemen in the way of food, clothing, hardware, cooking utensils and the like, but did it on a credit basis getting paid but once a year when the stockman sold his steers (they sold steers in those days instead of calves as is the general practice today). Involved was a sense of mutual trust between the cattlemen and the merchant no such thing as signing a sales slip was ever thought of the merchant merely kept track of what the cowman bought and the latter paid for it without any question. One of the best known of these merchants was James I. Gardner who came to Prescott in 1879 by burro pack train and ran a general store from 1883 to 1918. Another well-known name in the general store business was that of the Wingfields, who have been in the business in Camp Verde from the late nineties up to the present time.

Another factor that helped indirectly to keep the cattle industry going was the old-time freighter who hauled the supplies that kept the merchant in business. Most of the supplies came in from points on the Colorado River though on occasion from as far away as Yuma and even Los Angeles. Back in the beginning oxen were used but finally gave way to mule teams. Freighting was a rugged life at best, constantly exposed to Indian attacks, with little in the way of roads and all kinds of weather conditions to put up with.

Another thing that may have helped them to bear the hardships and privations of those early days was their feeling for religion not perhaps the formal religion we think of today, but more a religion of their own developed from long years of communion with themselves and with Nature on the vast open spaces of the West: Evidence of this showed up in the early days, on Texas cattle ranges, when widely separated cattlemen got together and started the camp meeting idea held way out in the sticks, with a minister from the nearest town brought out to conduct the services. These meetings often lasted for a week or more so as to allow time for all surrounding cattlemen to take part. The Deep Well Ranch, north of Prescott, is the scene of one of these camp meetings each year.

The quality of livestock has improved by leaps and bounds in the last thirty years and today Yavapai County produces Herefords that are as good as any in the country. While the cash income from cattle may not be large in comparison with that of mining being roughly a third at the present time and with possibly an even greater spread at times in the past still it has undoubtedly had a much more profound and lasting effect upon the economy of the county as a whole since it has spread into every corner and not just in a few places. The number of range livestock in the county at present is somewhat in excess of a hundred thousand head. In closing this story it may be of interest to know that Texas and some other states were not alone in having their colorful cattle barons which fiction writers have so often told about. Yavapai County had its own cattle baron in the person of Charlie Mullen who appeared on the scene in 1917 and proceeded to buy up many of the big ranches in the western half of the county, boasting that he would put a fence around Yavapai County. By 1920 he was branding better than four thousand calves a year and controlled probably close to a million acres of range lands. He prospered for a number of years then began to run into trouble and by 1928 lost everything through a bank foreclosure.

BIRDS

Redbird of the dawning, Bluebird of the day - Goldbird of the evening, All must fly away. Beyond the purple twilight, Into the spume of stars - An angel with a silver staff Is lowering the bars . . .

AY! AY! AY!

Siesta . . . siesta . . . the word rocks to and fro like a gayly painted cradle from the land of Mexico. Siesta . . . siesta . . . now deeper grows the sleep, but just change one little letter and mañana's dreams will keep . . . Fiesta! Fiesta! Guitars and dark eyes dance . . . Ay! Mañana is for sleeping but tonight is for romance!

ALWAYS SOMETHING SINGS

From autumn's debris Spring gaily roofs her dwelling With apple blossoms.

LITTLE MOON

The moon rose the other night: Nothing unusual. Yet it barely got off the ground When it was caught in a tree. There it stayed For two days and three nights; Until a little girl Found it shivering on the topmost branch. And that's where I saw it, Wrapped in a blanket in front of the stove. I hope she will let it go again.

THUNDER

Thunder rumbling over the mountain top. Canyons echoing it afar. Bellowing, crashing, then suddenly stop. Leaving half of heaven ajar.

INDIAN LORE SONG

Lonely is the song I sing Like a lonely bird am I Searching . . . searching for my love Under the open sky. I ask my flute to speak for me As my heart sings its only tune Lonely as the farthest star Under the Planting-Moon.

APRIL

I found the first sweet violet today, The April clouds were weeping and wore gray But with the violets, spring had come to stay. The willow was a lovely maid, rain-kissed, She wore a scarf of filmy pale-green lace, And lilac gently swayed in purple mist, And held a plumy fan before her face. Sweet April with her laughter and her tears Brings youth forever to the rolling years.

YOURS SINCERELY OUT WICKENBURG WAY:

Our appreciation of the Wickenburg story cannot be expressed with a simple thank you but believe us we owe you a mass vote of gratitude for doing so much in such a wonderful way for Wickenburg. General feel ing of those who have seen the magazine is that nothing like this has ever happened to us. Many, many thanks.

Dana Burden, Boss Andy Hervey, Wrangler Carl Beillen, Office Mgr. Round-Up Club Wickenburg, Arizona

JANUARY (Continued):

Now this is another of those times when this poor illiterate Midwestern Hillbilly deplores her limited vocabulary because how can I ever possibly express my appreciation, enjoyment, amazement "They've done it again" topped previous 'un-toppable' issues and excitement over your January issue of ARIZONA HIGHWAYS. Page by page, step by step I've watched the building of Glen Canyon Dam, also the building of Page, Arizona, and travelled through every magnificen mile of Lake Powell. What an experience! and especially for the average person who can never hope to have the opportunity of actually visiting these fabulously fascinating and beautiful spots and what a great service is rendered us by all of you there at the magazine offices.

Helen Hester Cincinnati, Ohio I have just read your issue devoted to Lake Powell and have never seen a more nauseating whitewash within a magazine. I had the fortune to travel through the Glen Canyon a month before the floodgates were closed on the Glen Canyon Dam and could only think how fortunate we were as Americans to be the heirs of so much beauty. I have traveled for years, both in the American West and in other parts of the world, and never elsewhere have I seen anything remotely like it.

I have searched the back issues in vain for any pictures or reference to the Glen Canyon while the dam was in progress. But now that the dam is an accomplished fact I find that you have printed within the same issue pictures of the area as it was before the dam plus new pictures and glowing descriptions of the lake-a combination of bad taste and hypocrisy I had not thought possible. Your magazine is highly thought of and its opinion carries considerable weight; you could have been an influential organ of public opinion in fighting to preserve this irredeemable heritage. Instead you must bear part of the guilt for the destruction of something that is a loss to all Americans, present and future.

Bruce N. Berger Aspen, Colorado

LETTER FROM SWEDEN:

I would like to thank you for the copies of ARIZONA HIGHWAYS. I have received a subscription to your magazine as a gift from my sister in Arizona, and I can't explain what it means to me. This February issue is especially beautiful with the shots of the desert in Spring.

I am on a mission for the Mormon Church here in Sweden. My home is in Mesa, Arizona, and you can imagine I miss the desert and mountains around where I was born and raised. I especially miss Superstition Mountain which you have featured in ARIZONA HIGHWAYS. I feel as though I am personally acquainted with every rock and cactus on that mountain. Each color picture and the black and whites for that matter, brings me closer to the land that I love.

My landlady just returned my magazine and said, "If Arizona looks like that, what did you come to Sweden for?"

Peter L. Peterson Postfak Tumba, Sweden

INSIDE BACK COVER

"GOLDWATER LAKE" BY HERB MCLAUGHLIN. Goldwater Lake, shown here, supplies the city of Prescott with water. This scenic jewel in a setting of stately pines was named in honor of Morris Goldwater, prominent citizen-merchant and one-time mayor of Prescott, whose grandson, Barry Goldwater, is U. S. Senator from Arizona. 4x5 Speed Graphic; Eastman E-3; f.22 at 1/25th sec.; 6" Ektar lens; July; sunny day; 250 Norwood meter reading; ASA rating 64.

BACK COVER

"QUIET DAY IN THE DELLS" BY DARWIN VAN CAMPEN. This photograph was taken in Granite Dells, scenic area near Prescott. Here Granite Creek flows through a wilderness of jumbled rocks forming miniature lakes which offer recreational opportunities throughout the year. The area is one of the most photographed in Yavapai County. 4x5 Linhof camera; Ektachrome; f.30 at 1/25th sec.; 127mm Ektar lens; June; bright sunlight; Weston Meter 400; ASA rating 50.

SPECIAL INTRODUCTORY OFFER ARIZONA HIGHWAYS

With the fulfillment at last of a long, cherished dream to have one of the most beautiful binders we believe is available on the market for a permanent collection of our magazines, we are pleased to make this special, introductory offer to our new friends and readers: ONE NEW OR GIFT SUBSCRIPTION TO ARIZONA HIGHWAYS FOR ONE YEAR PLUS OUR NEW BINDER FOR ONLY SEVEN DOLLARS, A SAVINGS OF ONE DOLLAR. (Add fifty cents for recipient's name embossed on front.) Send order to ARIZONA HIGHWAYS, 2039 W. Lewis Avenue, Phoenix, Arizona 85009.

Meet Our New Binder

Here is the perfect way to preserve your monthly issues of ARIZONA HIGHWAYS for a permanent file for your library our new binder. For this binder, a grey colored book cloth Group C-1 has been chosen for the outside cover and buckram being used for the joining strip for the inside lining. The cardboard used is a 110 point binders board. The rounded back contains a turtle back metal with 12 wires to accommodate one year of Arizona Highways. The decoration on the cover is in six lithographed colors and stamped with one impression of red foil. Distinctive features of the binders are as follows It is colorful and neat in appearance rounded corners the round back and the compact appearance which resembles a bound volume The inside covers are lined with pictures of beauty from Arizona Highways. Price per binder: $4.00 (fifty cents additional for name embossed on front of binder. No charge for identifying year numbers 1961, 1962, 1963, 1964.) Send orders to ARIZONA HIGHWAYS, 2039 W. Lewis Ave., Phoenix, Arizona 85009.