WATERFALLS OF GRAND CANYON

HAVASU FALLS

The story of Grand Canyon's waterfalls is like a majestic symphony the crescendo of singing streams, of tumbling cataracts, to the rushing of great waterfalls, the roaring of summer flash floods; and soft interludes of wind music. Predating these were the thunderings of ancient volcanoes that eventually left their molten lava flows in "frozen" cascades. Not to be outdone completely are the dry waterfalls waiting silently between canyon walls for spring and summer freshets to bring them to life. Waterfalls and their attending streams have played a major part in the shaping of Grand Canyon. Trails to many of these are among the ruggedest and most beautiful in America.

Fifty Foot Falls, in Havasu Canyon, is just below and north of Supai Village. It was once a picturesque waterfall, created in 1932 by a flash flood. Twenty-two years later another flash flood destroyed it and changed its majestic appearance.

Another minor falls is Deer Creek Falls, reached by way of Thunder River Trail outside the Park boundaries on the North Rim. The falls is situated in the extreme north central edge of the western half of Grand Canyon National Park. Its stream, Deer Creek, flows south into the Colorado River. The trip to Deer Creek Falls is a tough one not recommended for the inexperienced.

The lower part of the Old Hance Trail is blocked by dry waterfalls. The trail was built in the 1880's by Captain John Hance. Much of it was so obliterated by slides that Captain Hance did not attempt to reconstruct it. The Old Hance Trail, Grand Canyon authorities say, is not scenic and contains little to recommend it.

The Hance Trail (sometimes called the Red Canyon Trail) is a later one. It contains two dry waterfalls which have to be circumvented. These are two of dozens and dozens of dry waterfalls in remote places of the Grand Canyon. The Hance Trail is said to be the most perverse trail of the South Rim. In some places it's there, and in other places it isn't. Those who lose it add to their tragedy by attempting to hike on blindly, for there is no (easy-to-find) water along the way.

For those whose hobby is "collecting" waterfalls, here is the proper place to quote from a national park leaflet: "All persons hiking within the Grand Canyon National Park, except on the Bright Angel and Kaibab Trails, must register at a Ranger Station, giving their route and expected time of return. They must be suitably equipped and physically able for the proposed trip. All inner canyon travel is at the hiker's own risk.

In the northeast corner of Grand Canyon National Park, and little known, is Nankoweap Falls. Apparently the trail to the falls is a hazardous one. During 1966, George Beck, a hydrologist, flew in by helicopter and photographed it.

Within the Grand Canyon are numerous springs, creeks, cascades and the Colorado and Thunder Rivers. Each had its humble beginning as raindrops or snowflakes on the high plateaus and mountains, even lovely Havasu Creek, which starts its outward journey from springs bubbling up from the ground; and each that contributes to a waterfall does so in its own spectacular way.

Cheyava (She-AVA) Falls is a little-known falls near Clear Creek, midway in the east half of Grand Canyon. Clear Creek flows southwest into the Colorado River. When Cheyava is active it can be seen with binoculars from Yavapai and Mather Points around the middle of March and later.

WATERFALLS of the GRAND CANYON

Cheyava was visited by Emery and Ellsworth Kolb in 1903, after it had been described to them by William Beeson. Beeson said it resembled a "big sheet of ice." Ellsworth Kolb gave it its Hopi name, meaning intermittent, after discovering that its flow is determined by the amount of snowfall on the North Rim.

Emery C. Kolb, now 86, in describing trips which he and his brother, Ellsworth, made to Cheyava Falls, says, "Cheyava Falls gushes out of the upper part of the Blue Lime Wall (known today as the Redwall Limestone due to the wash-down of iron oxide coloring). It makes a mighty roar in the early spring when the North Rim receives sufficient precipitation."

The Clear Creek Trail is around ten miles from the Kaibab Trail, mostly uphill. Three more rugged miles, still uphill, Cheyava Falls nestles challengingly where hikers can glimpse it from the South Rim through their binoculars. In May, 1966, John W. Stockert, Park Naturalist, Grand Canyon National Park, visited Cheyava Falls and photographed it in color. He went by way of Clear Creek. "There is no question about the trail's ruggedness!" he agrees emphatically. "The falls is not actually on Clear Creek," he says, "but a short distance away on the east side. It descends in three falls. In 1965 its flow could be seen from Yavapai and Mather Points. In 1966 it was not visible from there due to limited precipitation on the North Rim. The Clear Creek Trail ends at a small side canyon, about 200 to 300 yards from the creek."

At the head of Bright Angel Creek (which flows south-west to the Colorado River), in the eastern half of Grand Canyon, Roaring Springs roars out from the canyon wall with such force that it virtually named itself. The water plunges down over a 300-foot fern-draped slope. Roaring Springs is a cascade rather than a waterfall, as it pours down over a slope instead of a vertical wall. But waterfall or cascade, it is one of Grand Canyon's majestic spots.

Kaibab and Bright Angel Trails are joined together by the River Trail, which runs to the suspension bridge.

Wilfred (Bill) Bryant has hiked at least four times to Roaring Springs on various photographing trips. On one trip he and his companions checked in at the Grand Canyon Ranger Station at nine o'clock at night. The South Rim was covered with snow. The boys slipped and slid down the snow-packed Kaibab Trail to Cedar Ridge, where the snow terminated. They hiked on to Phantom Ranch, and spent the night there, what was left of it. Next morning they hiked up to Roaring Springs, stopping at Ribbon Falls on the way.

Ribbon Falls is located southwest of Roaring Springs in a canyon just west of Bright Angel Creek. Over the centuries it has deposited an immense forty-foot mound of travertine at its base. On either side are moss-covered slopes. As the water strikes the mound it sprays over the green slopes, making a lovely picture in contrast to the canyon's red walls. "Ribbon Falls, with its travertine draperies, is one of the nicest things to see along the trail," says Bill Bryant. "It is roughly about half way from the floor of the canyon to the North Rim. The shortest route to it from the south is by way of the Kaibab Trail. From the North Rim, by way of Bright Angel Trail."

"There is another beautiful waterfall about one and a half miles above Ribbon Falls," says John Stockert. "It is known as Upper Ribbon Falls. A small forest of cottonwoods grows at its base."

Now let's take a quick trip, as the raven flies, back to Havasu Canyon, in the west half of Grand Canyon. Fifty-foot Falls, mentioned previously, is the first, just below Supai Village. About a mile and a half below the village, north, we come to Navajo Falls. This beautiful falls is narrower than formerly. Its cliffs are predominantly dirt instead of rock, therefore more subject to crumbling away. Wherever green foliage can get a foothold, it encroaches on the falls. Various descriptions of Navajo Falls throughout the years show that it is quite subject to change. An earlier account also tells of a travertine overhang that was washed away. Navajo's approximate height has been given as seventy-five feet.

One account states that Navajo Falls was named for a prominent Navajo chief who died in the late 1800's. In her article "Mooney Falls," ARIZONA HIGHWAYS, August 1959, the late Helen Humphreys Seargeant quotes from a letter from her pioneer uncle, Alphonso Humphreys, "I claim the honor of naming Bridal Veil Falls, Navajo Falls, In my book I give a reason for the naming of these places. What I write you is true." Helen's uncle was 87 when he wrote the letter. He died two years later, his book unpublished.

Havasu Falls lies about two miles below Supai Village. Both falls and village are named for the Havasupai Indians, whose home for centuries has been in Havasu Canyon. They call themselves the People of the Blue-green water; Havasu (blue-green water), pai (people). Reminiscent of an ancient Indian legend, it is said the women are sometimes called Daughters of the Waterfall. Havasu Canyon was once called Cataract Canyon by early white prospectors.

Havasu Creek, whose origin was mentioned earlier, has meandered, gurgled, and plunged through mineral laden areas. It is said that its lovely blue-green color is caused by light refraction from fine clay particles. Another explanation is that the color derives from certain mineral salts, in addition to the reflection of Arizona's blue sky. For many generations it has watered the gardens of the Havasupais, and furnished them the most enchanting recreation area in the world. Today they are finding a profitable business guiding tourists by way of a pack-horse train from their Hualapai Hilltop down to their secluded "fairyland." A campground, which they have provided for visitors, is just below Havasu Falls and two and a half miles below the village, where lovely pools mirror the sky and provide luxurious swimming.

Havasu Falls was once the "Bridal Veil Falls," named by Alphonso Humphreys. At one time, states Byrd H. Granger in his Arizona Place Names, lacy streams were 170 feet high and 500 feet broad. They were considered the most exquisite waterfalls in the world. Once the falls fell in two silvery streams due to a stone divider which was swept away in a flood. Havasu Falls has been called the "Mother of the Mist." Its height today is probably a little less than 100 feet.

Probably the most dramatic of Havasu Canyon's waterfalls is Mooney Falls, a mile or so below Havasu Falls. You go down over a rocky hill, through a tunnel to a balcony overlooking a blue pool. You then go down a series of stepping pins, and two small ladders and you are at pool level.

Back in 1882 there were no stepping pins or ladders. A young ex-sailor by the name of D. W. Mooney tried to descend on a rope and fell to his death. He had come to Havasu Canyon with a party of prospectors which included Helen Seargeant's father, Matthew Humphreys, her uncle, Alphonso Humphreys, E. L. Doheny (later well-known California oil man), and several others. Some records name Mooney as James Mooney, which Mrs. Seargent challenged vigorously.

On the first recorded mining claim in Havasu Canyon (1879 to 1883), Alphonso Humphrey's name heads the list, with D. W. Mooney second.

Mooney Falls is about 196 feet high. It has beautiful travertine aprons.

Beaver Falls, nearly two miles below Mooney, is Havasu Canyon's last and northernmost falls. In the early days numerous beavers plied their building vocation here, but due to unfavorable conditions and periodic floods, their numbers diminished. The last beaver was seen in 1958. From here Havasu Creek flows down through the rugged canyon to the Colorado River.

The water of Thunder River Falls, in the western half of Grand Canyon, flows out from Thunder Spring into the one-half-mile long Thunder River, to join Tapeats Creek (which is larger than the river), and thence it flows southwest to the Colorado River. Thunder Spring, Thunder Falls and Thunder River were discovered around 1904, and were so named because their vociferous music thunders through a deep rocky gorge.

Water has many voices. In their book, Through the Grand Canyon from Wyoming to Mexico, the Kolb brothers referred to these. The late Ellsworth Kolb described the "shattering vibration of air that is associated with waterfalls;" and of the cataract he said, "The air vibrated with the impact of water against rock."

Tapeats Creek was named by Major John Wesley Powell after a Paiute Indian. It is said that the Indian once owned Tapeats Creek.

A national park guide leaflet describes the hazardous trail to Thunder River, which is by way of the North Rim, from May to October. "Experienced hikers may safely make the trip," says the leaflet, "but should be properly equipped, and carry in all food, bedrolls, first aid supplies, et cetera. The hike down has been made in seven hours; fourteen or more hours are required for the return trip. Only experienced hikers in good condition should attempt the trip." Arrangements for guided pack trips may be made.

It is awe-inspiring indeed to sit at the foot of a Grand Canyon waterfall and contemplate the ages of Earth's history that built up the great wall over which the waters come tum-

tumbling down. The drop of around 5,000 feet between Rim and Colorado River represents millions of years of geologic history recorded in its breath-taking, multi-colored walls, during which the area that is now Grand Canyon was at least seven times under ancient seas.

Invariably one looks up to see the source of the mists and tumbling waters but one must look up and beyond the “stepping off” place.

Grand Canyon receives its northern drainage from four great plateaus; the Shivwits, Unikaret, Kanab, and Kaibab. Shivwits was named for the Shivwits Indians; Uinkaret is a Paiute word meaning Where the Pines Grow; Kanab is Paiute for Willow; and Kaibab means Mountain Lying Down. North-east of these plateaus lies the Paria Plateau, which drains into Marble Canyon. Clarence E. Dutton, in his Tertiary History of the Grand Cañon District, states that Marble Canyon is the Prelude to Grand Canyon, and is only surpassed in depth and grandeur by Grand Canyon itself.

The four great plateaus are thought to have formed sometime around 300 million years ago, during the Permian Period. Paria (from the Spanish) Plateau is lower, and belongs to the Triassic Period, when the trees of the Petrified Forest were growing in their swamp land around 200 million years ago.

The Colorado River runs west and southwest across the middle of the previously mentioned Grand Canyon District. Its river valley is Grand Canyon and Marble Canyon.

Three living streams enter the Colorado River from the plateaus on the north in the Grand Canyon District; the Virgin River, which is westernmost, Kanab Creek, which enters Grand Canyon through a gorge, and Paria River, which enters the Colorado at the head of Marble Canyon.

The four great plateaus all lie north of the Colorado River; Shivwits, with its volcanic masses, is westernmost, Uinkaret is the narrowest, and Kanab, the broadest. Kanab's one interesting ing feature is a spectacular canyon that penetrates into the center of Grand Canyon. Kaibab Plateau, which includes the North Rim of Grand Canyon, is the highest, with an elevation of 7,500 to 9,300 feet. The Kaibab Plateau is around ninety miles in length from the Vermillion Cliffs to Grand Canyon, and is about thirty-five miles wide. East of the Kaibab Plateau the terrain drops 4,000 feet upon the region draining into Marble Canyon. Its northern part is Paria Plateau, which terminates southward in cliffs that are extensions of the Vermillion Cliffs. Still eastward and northward lies Kaiparoivit Plateau. At the southern boundary of the Grand Canyon District lies another expanse of plateau land which drains into Grand Canyon from the south, the Coconino Plateau, the elevation of which averages 6,000 to 7,500 feet.

From these plateaus once flowed the molten lavas of ancient volcanoes. Their great peaks stand as silent reminders of a world which time changes: Mt. Dellenbaugh on Shivwits Plateau; Mt. Emma, Mt. Logan and Mt. Trumbull on Uinkaret Plateau; and the San Francisco Peaks and Bill Williams Mountain on the Coconino Plateau. Lava Cascades, formed of lava flows from the Uinkaret Plateau, are the most spectacular recent geological feature in the western Grand Canyon.

In that distant volcanic time Earth's untrammeled power was water, wind, and other forces of nature. In our time, man's ingenuity is directed toward harnessing and putting to his own uses the forces of nature. How much this will change the face of the earth, and what the long-range results will be, is a matter of present-day concern. Will we be able to use our increasing knowledge wisely?

The great drainage systems of the plateaus start from precipitations of rain and snow, in the ever-moving, mysterious cycle of water; from cloud mist to raindrop or snowflake, to singing streams, to lakes and rivers, and thundering waterfalls to be collected again from lakes and rivers, and wafted in new mists over the land. It is water's natural, circuitous journey, guided by an intelligence clearly outside the realm of man.

JUNE

When the birds wake singing, And the dawn comes winging Down the skyways of the sun Before the heat's begun, Then the air is so soft You could eat it with a spoon Oh it's barefoot weather It is ice cream weather, It is swimming pool weather, It is June.

JOURNEY TO SUMMER

In green beginning, Spring Has moved across the land With wind-song, Frequent rain; Illusive birds In the constantly changing woods.

Now, With a different design, More mature promise, The slow, Official journey Into Summer.

PAINTING THE DESERT SCENE

Paint box bulges at the seams With oils of every hue To capture brilliant colors Of exotic desert view. Crimson and viridian, Cerulean, and cobalt blue, Raw sienna, yellow ochre, Orange, white, and umber too. Fingers tingle on the brush To spark the world of humdrum, Talent now must do the rest Only wish I had some!

AT PALO VERDE TIME

Sunshine hangs in tassels From a scarf of sky Spreading sudden glory That halts the passer-by.

Champagne bubbles on a Stem. An amber fall Sparkling desert laughter Answering Spring's call.

JUNE MADNESS

I rushed to meet the morning As dawn raced across the dune And all the world was music, And all the world was June!

I drank the elixir of silence, Saw day being born anew And all the sand was golden, And all the mountains blue.

I reveled in dawn's enchantment: The rosy hue of the sky, Sand dunes whispering secrets, The wind a lover's sigh.

Then suddenly out of nowhere The birds sang a rigadoon And all the world was music, And all the world was June!

LAND OF THE SUN:

It is very rare that I sit down to write a "Letter to the Editor," but I feel that I just have to do it now. I wish to tell you how delighted I am about your April 1968 issue, "The Sun is King."

While I was still in California I subscribed to your magazine and enjoyed it very much. Last fall I moved to Tucson to join the staff of Kitt Peak National Observatory and now I get an even better view of Arizona and I still enjoy your magazine. But you and David Muench have really worked wonders to bring us this outstand-ing April issue. Being a member of the Solar Division of the Observatory, I was thrilled to see this issue being devoted to the object of our studies. I will be leaving in approximately two weeks and will be visiting solar observatories and some of my friends overseas. Since I expect them to enjoy the April issue of ARIZONA HIGHWAYS as much as I did, would you please send me ten copies so that I can take them along on my trip. I can think of no better way of showing my friends and fellow scientists of how beautiful this part of the country really is.

Congratulations bright as the sun, and wide as the sky.

The April issue of ARIZONA HIGHWAYS is a star of first magnitude. Color and excitement leap from the pages to overwhelm me with wonder and admiration. This is truly one of the most beautiful and dramatic issues I've had the honor to enjoy.

I'm going to use this issue not only in my Physics classes here at Campion High School, but especially in my Physics classes this summer when I'll be teaching teachers at Creighton University in Omaha.

What a magnificent spectacle your April issue of ARIZONA HIGHWAYS is! I'm certain it must be one of the finest you've ever produced.

Even here in what I hope is only temporary "exile" in California, the instincts of a devoted Arizonan prevailed, as I fired off copies of that issue around the country one to such a remote outpost as Littleton, New Hampshire.

YOURS SINCERELY

In particular, the appearance of the distinguished Nancy Newhall-Ansel Adams team in Arizona's own magazine is a proud achievement for ARIZONA HIGHWAYS and for the state as a whole and gives your pages a grand new dimension. I can highly recommend their book on Mission San Xavier del Bac to all Arizonans.

OF FRANK HOLME:

As I glanced through the lovely pictures and read a little of the January, 1968, ARIZONA HIGHWAYS, I put it down, thinking, "I'll read it later when I have more time." Then last night while my husband was reading, I picked up the magazine and started to read the legend, "All about the Bandar Log Press." In a very few minutes I said in an excited voice to my husband. "Frank Holme! Frank Holme! Look! That picPicture of ours! I can't believe it!"

Our picture is a desert scene with two camels, and three Indians in the foreground resting. In the distance there is a cathedral with spires and palm trees. I believe it is a water color and the colors are purple rose and blue.

When I look at the picture I think of a mirage. Sometimes the colors look deep but with changing light, they seem to become almost misty. The picture is signed "Frank Holme" on the lower left corner and I believe in pencil or indelible pencil.

OPPOSITE PAGE "ETERNAL MUSIC OF FALLING WATER" BY WAYNE DAVIS. Havasu Falls,

In the Havasupai Indian Reservation, one of the Grand Canyon's most spectacular waterfalls, is situated on Cataract Creek below the village of Supai. The creek, which runs through Havasu Canyon (sometimes listed as Cataract Canyon, a name now generally used for the upper end of the canyon only) is usually placid and harmless, but can become both dangerous and destructive during severe floods following unusually heavy rainstorms, usually in summer, over the rims surrounding the canyon. 4 x 5 Linhof camera; Ektachrome; f.22 at 1/10th sec.; 150mm Symmar lens; early afternoon on a June day; side-lighted.

BACK COVER BY JOSEF MUENCH.

Photograph taken from Vista Encantadora on the North Rim of Grand Canyon. This view point on the Walhalla Plateau is reached by taking the road to Cape Royal and is situated about halfway between the turn-off and the end of the road. The North Rim, rising on an average 1,200 feet higher in elevation than the South Rim, offers different, and sometimes more interesting, aspects of the Canyon with its variety of trees and plants growing in abundance to the Rim's edge and in many cases growing down the Canyon's sloping walls. 4 x 5 Linhof camera; Ektachrome; f.16 at 150th sec.; 6" Xenar lens; Sept.