Mileposts/Events

But avoided the dwellings. Amazingly these isolated cliff dwellings remained unknown to the Spanish, Mexican, and American explorers and settlers until 1909.

To make this 160-mile roundtrip from the Hopi reservation, drive northeast on the paved road directly east of the Hopi Cultural Center Museum parking lot. Seven miles later, watch for the right-hand cutoff to Pinon (marked with a sign). This road, Indian Route 43, remains unpaved and rutted in places for about 20 miles, until it reaches the small community of Pinon.

At Pinon there is a junction of Indian routes 43, 41, and 4. At the big Bashas' store, turn left (north) onto Route 41 toward the smaller village of Forest Lake. From the turnoff at Pinon, the next 17 or so miles to the Forest Lake Chapter House are an excellent paved road through hills covered with stunted bushes, small trees, isolated hogans, and grazing horses.

About four miles west of Forest Lake, the pavement disappears and becomes a finicky route that is hard and smooth in some places and rutted in others. An ordinary sedan could make the trip, but a high-clearance vehicle is recommended because road conditions are unpredictable. The dirt road continues for nearly 13 miles, gradually winding up to Black Mesa, where the Peabody Coal Co. has a major mining operation. At about 4.4 miles into this stretch, you'll come to a fork. At one time, there was a makeshift sign there, saying Kayenta. Take the left fork. The closer you get to the coal mine, the better the road becomes. Soon after the fork, the last 13.6 miles between Black Mesa and U.S. Route 160 are on a well-paved road.

Navajo National Monument is located on State Route 564, 9.5 miles north of where the junction of Indian 41 crosses U.S. 160 and becomes 564. Food and fuel are available at the junction. State 564, the road to the monument visitors center, is paved and narrow and straddles the red sandy dunes and thick pines of Marsh Canyon, the area where the ancient Anasazi planted their crops. This is scenic country, and an overlook just before you reach the visitors center is worth a stop.

From the Sandal Trail, which begins at the visitors center, it's a half-mile walk - (one way) to the viewpoint for Betatakin. The downhill trail is paved,

BACK ROAD ADVENTURE

and there are several benches along the route, but it is not recommended for wheelchairs: there are widely spaced "steps" and a number of bridges to cross. Visitors with respiratory or heart problems, as well as those unaccustomed to high mountain air, should be aware that the elevation at the canyon's rim is about 7,300 feet. Thirty campsites and a picnic area are adjacent to the visitors center. For those up to it, the ranger-escorted hike down to the ruins is well worth the several hours round-trip. The hikes generally are offered once in the morning and once in the afternoon from early summer to fall, while before Memorial Day and after Labor Day there is only one hike a day. Escorted hikes are first-come, first-served with limited numbers allowed each time.

Visitors should keep in mind that, unlike the rest of Arizona, the Navajo reservation observes daylight savings time during summer months, which means it is one hour later there than it is off the reservation. Betatakin is usually open from May 1 to late October with the visitors center closing at 6 P.M. reservation time during the summer months. The visitors center is open every day of the year, except Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year's, at 8 A.M. with closing time varying depending on the season. For more information about the Navajo National Monument, write or call HC-71 Box 3, Tonalea, AZ 86044-9704; (520) 672-2366 or (520) 672-2367. To inquire about the Hopi Cultural Center Museum, write or call Box F, Hwy 264, Second Mesa AZ 86043; (520) 734-6650.

Whether you take the more challenging back roads to Betatakin or the highway route, the rewards are awesome.

Editor's Note: See the story on Keet Seel, another ruin at Navajo National Monument, on page 56.

TIPS FOR TRAVELERS

Back-road travel in remote areas can be hazardous if you are not prepared for the unexpected. Whether traveling in the desert or in the high country, be aware of weather and road conditions, and make sure you and your vehicle are in top shape and you have plenty of water.

Don't travel alone, and let someone at home know where you're going and when you plan to return.

MILEPOSTS Kids' Zoo Sleep Over

Spending the night at the Wildlife World Zoo, near Litchfield Park, west of Phoenix, will give youngsters plenty to talk about when their teachers ask what they did on summer vacation. August 11 and 25, youngsters can participate in the Sunset Safari Program, learning about nocturnal animals and their role in the environment and having a lot of fun. Other Sunset Safari activities include a night hike through the zoo, crafts, and games. When they're all tuckered out, the kids will sleep where else? - in the small mammals building. The program begins at 7 P.M. and ends at 8 A.M. the next day. It costs $35 for nonmembers and $30 for members, and includes dinner, breakfast, and supplies. To inquire, call the zoo, (602) 935-WILD.

Lost Treasure Tales

Raw gold! Buried treasure! A mysterious lost mission said to hide a rich Spanish mine! Breyfogle's lost lode in that furnace called Death Valley! The Dutchman's lost Peralta Mine in the Super stitions! They're all out there and ready for the taking.

Well, not quite. But Choral Pepper's newest book, Treasure Legends of the West, takes readers along on a marvelous bit of prospecting, following up these old legends and many more. The former editor and owner of Desert magazine, Pepper draws on historic records and personal on-site explorations in an effort to uncover The Trinidad Treasure, Custer's Lost Payroll, the Lost Dutchman, Noisy Mountain's Silent Secret, and more.

Says the book jacket: "Nine fascinating maps help set the mood and point the way to lost treasures." That may be a tad misleading, but whether or not the book is a ticket to riches, the easy reading text will give you the thrill of treasure hunting without leaving your easy chair.

The 90-page softcover book is available from Arizona Highways for $19.95 plus shipping and handling. To order telephone toll-free (800) 543-5432. In the Phoenix area or outside the U.S., call (602) 258-1000.

Red River Opry

King of the Cowboys Roy Rogers said, "We absolutely loved it." And legendary TV comic Dick Van Dyke opined that it was, "An exceptional evening of entertainment." Both these show biz icons were paying tribute to Tempe's Red River Opry, a country music showcase that keeps winning awards: in 1994 it was named Country Music Show of the Year by the Country Music Associa-tions of America, and in 1995 it was lauded as the Most Beautiful Country Music Venue in the country. Red River Opry's Arizona Country Music Show, featuring classic and contemporary music, bluegrass, rock 'n' roll, gospel, and comedy, runs all year. The Legends of Country Music show, highlighting the hits of such singers as Patsy Cline and George Jones, runs January through May and September through December. The Christmas Jubilee Show of traditional holiday fa-vorites plays in late November and December. For informa-tion, call (602) 829-6779 or toll-free (800) 466-6779.

Coronado Trail Honored

Pineand aspencovered mountains, rugged canyons, fastflowing streams, secluded meadows, and dramatic overlooks are just some of the reasons that the Coronado Trail from Morenci north to Eagar remains one of Arizona's most alluring and famous high-ways. The road, well known at home as an "Arizona Scenic Highway," as designated by the Arizona Department of Trans-portation, has earned itself a national honor as one of "America's 20 Most Important Scenic Byways." This award, given by Scenic America maga-zine, puts the 123-mile Coro-nado Trail in a special class with only two other Arizona byways, State 89A through Oak Creek Canyon and State Route 260 through the White Mountains.

To drive the Coronado Trail, take U.S. Route 60 east from Phoenix to Globe, U.S. 70 to U.S. 191 just east of Safford, and then head north for one of the most scenic rides in the state and all of the U.S.

For more information on Arizona's Scenic Highways, contact Arizona Department of Transportation's Community Relations Office, 206 S. 17th Ave., 118A, Phoenix, AZ 850073213; (602) 255-7355.

Picnicking at the Museum

Jerome State Historic Park offers a triple-threat attraction for visitors to the old miningtown-turned-artists'-colony. Sitting on the side of Mingus Mountain at the site of the onetime mansion of mining baron James Douglas, the museum offers picnic spots with tables and dramatic views in every direction, along with an impressive display of minerals, dioramas, and historical photographs. The museum's open daily except Christmas; admission is $2 for adults, $1 for ages 12 to 17, and free for 11 and under. For more information, call (520) 634-5381, or write P.O. Box D, Jerome, AZ 86331.

Red, White, and Brew

Beside The Pointe at The Pointe Hilton Resort at Squaw Peak continues its monthly wine and beer tastings in the Arizona Room. The event, August 16, from 5:30 to 7:30 P.M., will feature "Beers of Merchant Du Vin," and admission will be $10 per person.

The monthly tastings offer four to six wines or beers, appetizers, and the chance to chat with representatives from the wineries or breweries. Featured wines or beers will be available for purchase. The cost per tasting ranges from $8 to $20, depending upon the beverage featured. To inquire about this month's tasting or upcoming events through December, contact Beside the Pointe at The Pointe Hilton Resort at Squaw Peak, 7677 N. 16th St., Phoenix, AZ 85020; (602) 9975850.

Scuba-diving Vacation

Through November, 1995, Best Western Papago Inn & Resort in Scottsdale offers a special package deal, "Dive Arizona," that goes south of the border and features scuba-diving instruction. Included in the