Bisbee's School House Inn

lavatory on one end and the girls' on the other. Garfield Grade School didn't stay open for long and was the first school in the district to close its doors when the boomtown's population began to decline.

However, it didn't stay closed for long. In the 1940s, the large classrooms were divided into individual apartments, which were leased primarily by military families stationed at Fort Huachuca on the other side of the San Pedro River valley. The common area and kitchen downstairs were shared by all.

"They were one big happy family," said Jeff. The schoolhouse made its last transition in 1989 when it became a bed and breakfast. The Blankenbecklers took over in 1996 as the third owners of the School House Inn.

"Jeff likes to fix things, and I like to cook, clean and entertain, so this seemed a natural fit," said Bobby.

Each suite retains its structure from the days when the building was used as housing, and has its own theme: history, music, library, reading, arithmetic, art, geography and the principal's office. The Blankenbecklers reside in the teachers' lounge.

Old-fashioned toys, knickknacks, books, pictures and antiques add cozy charm to the corners of the halls and rooms. The upstairs deck provides a place to lounge or to set up the telescope for an impromptu astronomy lesson. There's even an old-fashioned soda machine where guests can get an ice-cold drink to sip while watching the sun set. Jeff recommends several restaurants in town for dinner, including the renowned Cafe Roka, his personal favorite. There's also a binder full of menus from all of the eateries in Bisbee next to the hall phone. Many guests hit the shops in Old Town Bisbee before dining downtown, but others prefer just to lounge around or walk down the quiet streets.

The individual rooms at the inn all have sitting areas stocked with books. Best of all, the open windows catch the cool evening breezes to complement a night tucked in cozy comfort. The next morning, the smell of coffee, the creak of floorboards and the sounds of Bisbee waking to bright sunrise encourage guests to amble downstairs for one of Bobby's breakfast creations. She alternates between egg dishes, such as baked eggs and cornbread, and sweet treats, like French toast topped with bananas and pecans. On nice mornings, breakfast is served at tables on the patio and, once everyone is settled, Jeff and Bobby come out to visit with their guests.

Bobby regales visitors with tales she's been told by residents and guests over the years, including stories of Garfield Grade School related to her by a gentleman who had been a pupil there.

"One woman who lived on the other side of Mule Pass would bring her kids to school on a donkey," said Bobby. "And then when school was over, she'd come back and put the kids in the donkey packs and head back through the pass." On a wall in the School House Inn, a sampler proclaims, "A teacher plants the seeds of knowledge, sprinkles them with love and patiently nurtures their growth to produce tomorrow's dreams."

Dreams continue to be commonplace at the School House Inn. Jeff and Bobby have every intention of keeping it that way. AH [LEFT] No signage detracts from the original red-brickschoolhouse look of the School House Inn, whose nine rooms lodge visitors year-round. [BELOW] Situated on the east side of the building and cooled by a light breeze from Tombstone Canyon, the inn's patio makes a pleasant breakfast setting for its guests.

LOCATION: Approximately 95 miles southeast of Tucson. GETTING THERE: Follow Interstate 10 southeast to Benson, Exit 303. Turn south on State Route 80 and travel about 50 miles to Bisbee. RESTAURANTS: Cafe Roka, (520) 4325153, www.caferoka.com. ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: School House Inn, (520) 432-2996 or toll-free (800) 537-4333; City of Bisbee, (520) 432-5446, www.cityofbisbee.com; home.earthlink.net/ ~schoolhouseinnbisbeeaz/.

{hike of the month} Pinnacle Peak May Be 'Citified,' but a Scenic Workout Still Awaits

In 1969, I HIKED PINNACLE PEAK, a rocky mountain northeast of Phoenix. Back then there were no houses or pavement, and the city was in the distance. These days Scottsdale has crowded into the area, but the hike still offers wonderful elements of a backcountry experience as well as a good workout. The Pinnacle Peak Trail in north Scottsdale, established in April 2002, offers a 1.75-mile (one way) hike through some of the most lush Sonoran Desert vegetation found anywhere close to a large city. Much of Pinnacle Peak Park is covered with large granite boulders that seem to cascade down each side of the peak. At the trail's apex, hikers can see Camelback Mountain to the southwest, Humboldt Mountain on the north, and the most dramatic view, Four Peaks, some 25 miles to the east. Near the trail parking lot stand visitor buildings, which offer interpretive information, water and rest rooms.

A visitor may see a lot more than vistas, however. Wildlife is not hard to find if you come at the right time of day. Cottontail rabbits, coyotes, snakes, lizards and birds make the peak their home. Park rangers told me that a youngster once saw 13 chuckwalla lizards on a hike. Very lucky hikers might even chance upon a bobcat or mule deer resting in the shade of a tree. The trail continues a bit to its high point of 2,889 feet and then descends a pass that looks down on multimillion-dollar homes. After another short climb, the trail drops to 2,366 feet at the western end. There is no exit from the park at this point, so turn around and go back up the trail, completing an invigorating 3.5-mile hike. Al ADDITIONAL READING: For 67 more urban and backcountry hikes around Arizona, complete with tips, directions, contact information and full-color photographs, read Arizona Hiking: Urban Trails, Easy Paths & Overnight Treks ($16.95) from Arizona Highways Books. To order, call toll-free (800) 543-5432 or go online to arizonahighways.com.

LOCATION: This desert park is within the city limits of Scottsdale, northeast of Phoenix, at 26802 N. 102nd Way.

GETTING THERE: From north Phoenix, drive east on Dynamite Boulevard to Alma School Parkway and turn south for 1 mile.

HOURS: Access to the trailhead available from dawn to dusk.

TRAVEL ADVISORY: Always carry water when hiking any Arizona trail.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: (480) 312-0990; www.scottsdaleaz.gov/parks/pinnacle.

Starting at an elevation of 2,570 feet, I feel a sense of ease as the trail passes by specimens of foothills paloverde trees, banana yuccas and saguaro cacti. Despite being inside the city limits of Scottsdale, these saguaros are large and healthy looking. Many are tall and have multiple arms, characteristic of the classic saguaro shape. Shortly, the trail switchbacks steeply up nearly 300 feet to Grandview Point, a good place to rest and take in the sights. A