TAKING THE OFF-RAMP

Tea With Style

The Amado Territory Inn, about 30 minutes south of Tucson, has taken the observation of afternoon tea to new heights. They serve up the everso-dainty finger sandwiches, fruit tarts and lemon cakes one might expect. But get a load of the real confectionsthe ones perched on the tea drinkers' heads.

At the inn's Monday and Tuesday teas, the ladies wear hats, and just to make sure they do, the inn supplies them. Guests may choose from a pile of vintage nests of feathers, flowers, net and lace, hats the way your

grandmother loved them. Ladies, hatpins at the ready, let the tea begin. Information and reservations: toll-free (888) 398-8684.

Spirit of Ocotillo

In 1927, the citizens of Tucson stood ready when Charles Lindbergh flew into town as the hero who conquered the Atlantic in a tiny plane. The parade had been scheduled and the gift prepared. They had built "Lucky Lindy," a full-size replica of his Spirit of St. Louis. And, in the true spirit of the desert, the Tucsonans built the plane out of ocotillo limbs, thorns and all. Lindbergh must have been duly impressed with the innovative use of materials. However, he did not attempt to take the controls.

Hillside Shrine Has a Heavenly View

Jerry and Pat Chouinard operate a public religious shrine at their mountaintop home in Ash Canyon, 8 miles south of Sierra Vista off State Route 92. A 75-foot-tall fiberglassreinforced concrete cross adorns the hillside, just above a 31-foottall earth-colored Madonna. A short distance down the hill is a 684-square-foot rock chapel. The cross and Madonna face out across 40 miles of desert to the Mule Mountains, and can be seen in the morning by people driving into Sierra Vista from Bisbee. The Chouinards built the Our Lady of the Sierras Shrine, completed in 1998, after a visit to Medjugorje, Yugoslavia, to investigate reports of apparitions of the Virgin Mary. Jerry, who was raised in the Depression and became a successful printer, said it was the best way he knew to say thank you for a great life. Visitors are welcome from 9 A.M. to sunset, seven days a week. Information: (520) 378-1764; www.ourladyofthesierras.org.

TAKING THE SHORT ROUTE - STRAIGHT UPRIVER

Several designers often comment how old mining and ranching trails took the shortest route between two points, no matter how steep or treacherous the landscape. When DeWitt Cosper bought a car right after World War I, he chose a peculiar route home. In rancher fashion, he took the shortest route between Clifton and his ranch on the Blue River, heading right up the river. "The man at the garage asked my dad if he wanted to be shown how to drive the car," says Cosper's daughter, Cleo Cosper Coor, "but my dad told the salesman that he would learn as he went along. Then he started home up the river." Cosper drove along the San Francisco River, then continued north along the Blue River. Coor correctly says some places are "hemmed in by cliffs on either side and have boulders in the middle of the river. But those old cars were high-clearance.' During one long stretch, Cosper told his daughter that he got the car up to 25 mph, then decided he'd "better slow down or he'd kill himself at such a fast speed." Nevertheless, Cosper and the car apparently made it home safely to the ranch.

Enjoy a Yurt

Have you been yurting yet? Yurts, canvas-shelled domed tents, are similar to those used in Central Asia for thousands of years. You can rent a 16-foot-diameter yurt at Lyman Lake State Park, 11 miles south of St. Johns in eastern Arizona, March 15 through November 15. The yurt is outfitted with two futons, a table, four chairs and electricity. Showers and rest rooms are within walking distance.

Visitors can enjoy watching the stars through the yurt's skylight or sit inside during seasonal storms. With an open floorplan, a yurt sleeps six people (the park provides two additional cots free) and comes with picnic tables and charcoal grills.

While at Lyman Lake State Park, enjoy waterskiing, fishing and hiking, or tour ruins and see petroglyphs. Reserve your yurt up to 12 months in advance. Information: (928) 337-4441.

Unwanted and Unloved

The Havasu National Wildlife Refuge along the Colorado River supports nearly 400 species of birds, mammals, reptiles and amphibians. But there's one uninvited guest-feral hogs.

These critters, descendants of domestic pigs, thrive in the marshy environment of the 37,515-acre refuge north of Parker. The wild pigs have been there for more than 100 years, long before the refuge was established in 1941. In the wild, the domestic pigs quickly adapt. Their hair and snouts elongate, their tusks lengthen and they develop thick hides. Feral hogs can weigh up to 400 pounds, said the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. There may be as many as 1,600 hogs in the refuge, it said. Efforts to hunt the hogs failed because they hide in the thick stands of cattails and salt cedars along the river, a spokesman said, adding a study is being made to find ways to contain the beasts.

Question of the Month

How old is the San Francisco Volcanic Field in northern Arizona? The volcanic eruptions began 6 million years ago in an area west of present-day Flagstaff. More than 600 eruptions later, the last live volcano in the 1,800-square-mile field fizzled out only a thousand years ago, leaving a cinder cone that became Sunset Crater. According to scientists, the volcanic show isn't over yet. More eruptions will occur in several thousand years.

The south trailhead near Pat Knoll has rest rooms, a covered area, parking lot and a "tot lot" for beginners. Wildlife viewing, spectacular scenery, old cabins and breathtaking views lure riders to this mountain trail.

Be prepared for rain during summer, and in fall enjoy the golden aspens.

To get to the trail from State Route 260 south of Eagar, take Forest Service Road 285 south for about 3 miles. At Forest Service Road 74, marked 76 on older forest maps, turn left (east) at the sign indicating the way to the OHV trail. The well-marked northern trailhead is about onehalf mile down the road. The southern trailhead near Pat Knoll is another 18 miles south on FR 285.

Information: Apache-Sitgreaves National Forests, Springerville Ranger District, (928) 333-4372.

Explore White Mountains by OHV

The Saffel Canyon Off Highway Vehicle Trail in the Apache-Sitgreaves National Forests near Eagar in eastern Arizona combines cool mountain pines, spectacular views and just plain fun. Built by the Forest Service in 2001 for OHV use, this 26-mile trail winds through the White Mountains at more than 8,000 feet elevation.

Accessible from various points, the Saffel Canyon OHV Trail is perfect for shorter trips. The

Dirt trails open up majestic scenery . . . and self-discovery BY CHARLES BOWDEN PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACK DYKINGA

CROSSING