DESTINATION San Jose de Tumacacori Mission

A live-in teacher that my mother interviewed, so you know she was good."

Ward recalled accompanying her parents to the Yolo bunkhouse to vote. The entire community of 11 adults partook in the civic ceremony. "I missed Camp Wood when I left for high school," said Ward. "All those people were my friends."

Don and I found Forest Service Road 95C, opposite the Camp Wood campground, and followed it west for almost a mile to a burnedout patch of forest. More old foundations are seen along 95C. We hiked through the charred trees to a rise and, as Eby had predicted, we saw another wellpreserved fort, about a mile away to the northeast.

From the burn on FR 95C, hikers can continue up to Hyde Mountain Lookout, elevation 7,272 feet, the highest point in theSanta Marias. Don describes the walk as difficult, but the views from the peak encompass much of northern Arizona, including Flagstaff.

Also Most roads around Camp Wood are easily traveled by high-clearance vehicles. Take binoculars, a picnic lunch and good hiking shoes to explore this country rich in ancient history, ranch history and history yet to be made. Also WARNING: Back road travel can be hazardous if you are not prepared for the unexpected. Whether traveling in the desert or in the high country, be aware of weather and road conditions, and make sure you and your vehicle are in top shape. Carry plenty of water. Don't travel alone, and let someone at home know where you're going and when you plan to return. Odometer readings in the story may vary by vehicle. ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: Prescott National Forest, Prescott Ranger District, (928) 443-8000, www.fs.fed.us/r3/prescott. A map of the Prescott National Forest is recommended for this back road route.

Tumacacori Mission Provided Communal Respite in Times of Upheaval

Priestly piety in New Spain and conversion of the friendly Pima Indians. New prayers and new ways of living on the Indians' ancient land. Then, political upheaval, violence and, finally, flight. That's the 300-year-old story of San Jose de Tumacacori Mission, whose beautiful ruins stand 48 miles south of Tucson, along the Santa Cruz River and southwest of the Santa Rita Mountains, where the priests and Pimasrisked provoking Apaches to acquire timber and limestone. The mission is the main unit of Tumacacori National Historical Park, which includes less extensive ruins of two other missions, Guevavi and Calabazas, about 15 miles north of Tumacacori (pronounced “toomaCAHcoree”).

“When people hear the word ‘mission,’ they think of a church building,” said Ranger Don Garate, Tumacacori's chief of interpretation. “But a mission was the community, with dwellings, farm fields, livestock pens, classrooms, workrooms, priests' quarters and, ideally-but not necessarily - a church.” Tumacacori had it all, including eventually - the church, which was probably designed by a master artist from Mexico and built by Pima and Spanish workers, he added. The mission also encompassed a mortuary chapel, a cemetery, a lime kiln for making plaster and an orchard. Wheat and cattle flourished in the fields.

Today a visitors center houses a museum and gift shop, and traditional plants such as gourds grow in a patio garden along with grapevines and olive, pomegranate and other trees. On weekends, spring through fall, local artisans demonstrate basketmaking and other traditional crafts. I recently “lunched” on tortillas and refried beans after watching Carmen Chavez prepare them using an iron-topped open fire. Other demonstrators make paper flowers, weave baskets