TAKING THE OFF-RAMP

{taking the off-ramp} John Wayne Slept Here Shine on Brewery Gulch

On the banks of the Santa Cruz River in Nogales stands a bed and breakfast full of history. The newly restored Hacienda Corona de Guevavi Bed & Breakfast used to be the headquarters of Guevavi Ranch, one of the oldest cattle ranches in Arizona. Courtyard walls are covered with murals by the famous Mexican artist and bullfighter, Salvador Corona, for whom the hacienda was named. The room John Wayne frequently stayed in (pictured) because of his friendship with former owner Ralph Wingfield, bears the name The Duke, while the room called Out of Africa combines decor from American Indian and African cultures. Although the small inn's setting may feel secluded, visitors find various activities within a 15-minute drive. Nearby are three golf courses, horseback riding, boating on Patagonia Lake and shopping in Nogales' street markets and curio shops. The peaceful surroundings, For many years, the Bisbee newspaper, the Brewery Gulch Gazette, bragged about a notorious stretch of bars and bordellos with the slogan, "The sun shines on Brewery Gulch 330 days a year, but there is moonshine every night."

historical connection and local diversions make this B&B a popular place to stay when visiting southern Arizona. Information: (520) 287-6503; www.haciendacorona.com.

ACCUSED KILLER FINDS A 'HIDEOUT' IN THE LAW

Charles Bradley, deputy sheriff of Tombstone in 1894, had it allrespectable job, faithful friends and the community's trust. But he also had a secret that could cost him everything. More than 900 miles away, Arkansas lawmen sought James McAnally for killing a man the year before. Imagine their surprise when they spotted him wearing a badge in a photograph of an Arizona courthouse. Bradley and McAnally were the same man. However, while shooting suspect McAnally had shown cowardice by fleeing, his alter ego, Deputy Bradley, returned to Arkansas to face justice after learning of his imminent arrest. Residents of Tombstone could hardly believe that McAnally and Bradley were the same man.

Bradley were one and the same. Many people traveled West to start over, but could "Charley," the town jailer, really be a murderer? And how should the community respond to this news? In the end, they decided although he was McAnally before coming to the Arizona Territory, Bradley was now a new man. He was allowed to post $1,000 bail in Arkansas, ending the case there. Two weeks later, Charles Bradley returned to Tombstone and his duties as a lawman.

Go Ahead, Search Me

When two roadside robbers on horseback pointed pistols at Mineral Park mercantile owner W.J. Roe in 1883, they probably rejoiced at the gentleman's sudden surrender. Roe had just finished purchasing goods in nearby Kingman, so his fully loaded wagon and expensive suit

marked him as a prosperous man. With nary a protest, he told the villains to search him. One robber eagerly dismounted and began pawing through Roe's numerous pockets, eventually finding $4.75. Satisfied with their respectable haul, equivalent to about $85 today, the robbers fled toward Kingman.

Perhaps the scoundrels lacked experience in searching prosperous gentlemen's suits. Maybe they just needed to get back to town quickly. But either way, in their haste, the robbers overlooked Roe's inner vest pocket where a fat wallet nestled.

Roe's cool demeanor and quick thinking, combined with the robbers' bungling, safeguarded his $1,200 stash, worth a cool $22,000 in today's dollars.

Holy Angels Church Graces Globe

When French-born Father Virgil Genevrier arrived in October 1915 as the new head of the Sacred Heart Parish in Globe, he immediately decided that his congregation of miners and their families deserved a new place of worship. The historic Holy Angels Church is what they got.

Built in the Romanesque revival style from tufa stone quarried at the nearby San Carlos Apache Indian Reservation, Holy Angels Church blends centuries of Roman Catholic tradition with the desert-town feel of Globe. At the entrance, three pairs of copper-clad doors stand among four marble columns, topped by Corinthian capitals. Inside, stainedglass windows glow overhead, refracting the desert sun. Above the church rises a single corner tower, overlooking the mining town.

The elegant simplicity of the Holy Angels Church at 201-231 S. Broad St. has earned it a place on the National Register of Historic Places, ensuring the preservation of Father Genevrier's gift to his congregation.

To learn more about this Arizona building and more than 45 others, pick up a new travel guide by Ann Patterson and Mark Vinson, Landmark Buildings: Arizona's Architectural Heritage, published by Arizona Highways Books. To order, call toll-free (800) 543-5432 or visit arizonahighways.com.

The Farm at South Mountain Grows Organics and Feeds You, Too

The Farm at South Mountain in south Phoenix is a pecan orchard and working farm that supplies organic vegetables to many of the area's leading restaurants. The Farm Kitchen serves breakfast and lunch on the patio or at picnic tables in the pecan groves-fresh-baked muffins, scones, pecan pie, homemade soups, salads and grilled organic turkey sandwiches. There's also the Quiessence Restaurant & Wine Bar, a fine-dining room, featuring rural tranquility.

Tarry awhile and you'll find there's lots more cooking at this mirocosmic frontier desert farming community-special classes in everything from organic gardening to candle-making, kids projects, cooking, floral arranging and more.

The Garden Territory gift shop is filled with antiques, tag sale relics, jars of honey and preserves, and collectibles of every style and variety.

The Farm at South Mountain is located at 6106 S. 32nd St. in Phoenix, just south of Southern Avenue on the west side of the street. Information: (602) 276-6360, www.thefarmatsouthmountain.com.

Question of the Month

What illness brought people to Arizona in droves during the late 19th century?

Health-seeking consumptives, those suffering from tuberculosis, moved to the state for its disease-free climate, clean dry air and curative waters. They lived in tent cities that sprang up to accommodate them. Later these sanitariums grew into the medical centers of today.

STORIES IN STONE TREKKING IN CANYON DE CHELLY