Time for a Swim in the Great Outdoors

Arizona's Backcountry Water Holes are World-class Spots for a Dip

Boasting three of the four deserts in North America, Arizona gets pegged as severe and searing-a land of wailing dust devils, windblown tumbleweeds and bleached white skies. But look again. Arizona also has six life zones-from desert scrub to high tundra. And here's one refreshing secret: The state harbors some of the world's best swimming holes-from cool, shadowed glades to lush, neartropical retreats.

The dog days of summer bring on visions of relaxing blue waters, most in spots easily accessible if you know where to look. From the blue-green waters in the depths of Havasu Canyon to pools in dark volcanic rock at Salome Creek, you can splash about in the state's favorite places to take a dip. After all, nothing beats a nice swim on a sweltering day. Summer never felt so good.

Following are some of Arizona's best locations to wade in and enjoy the water:

Aravaipa CREEK

THE 19,410-ACRE Aravaipa Canyon Wilderness located about 68 miles northeast of Tucson preserves a unique riparian corridor consisting of a sycamore-cottonwood-willow habitat surrounded by the Sonoran Desert. Nestled within the boundaries of the rugged backwoods area, avid hikers will discover the pleasures of the 11-mile-long wilderness and the perennial waters of the creek that created the canyon environment.Not for the faint of heart or those who dis-like getting their feet wet, the route through Aravaipa Creek has an elevation gain of 430 feet From the west trailhead to the east trailhead. More often than not, the trail wanders through the refreshing ankle-deep water, which occasionally forms pools in the canyon's curves. Cottonwood, ash and sycamore trees provide dappled shade in some places, which reinforces the relief offered by the pools from the sultry summer heat. An ambitious half-mile uphill scramble over boulders and crumbly volcanic rock in Virgus Canyon (opposite page) brings determined dippers to this pool in the Aravaipa Canyon Wilderness northeast of Tucson.

HOW TO GET THERE

To reach the west trailhead from Tucson, take State Route 77 about 32 miles past Oracle Junction to Aravaipa Road (at Central Arizona College). Turn right (east) onto the partially paved and graded dirt road and drive 12 miles to the west trailhead. From the trailhead, it is a 1.5-mile hike through Nature Conservancy land to the west wilderness boundary and access to the creek's pools. A permit is required to enter the Aravaipa Canyon Wilderness; entrance is limited to 50 people per day. Preregistration is required. Information: Bureau of Land Management, (928) 348-4400.

Sycamore CREEK

THE HARSH BEAUTY of Sycamore Creek (left and opposite page) in the 55,937-acre Sycamore Canyon Wilderness about 60 miles southwest of Flagstaff summons those who seek the wet and wild. Easily reached by an ancient Indian trail, now dubbed Parson's Spring Trail, the scenic Sycamore Creek creates another watery habitat.

Just 2 miles into the journey, you'll discover the creek's most popular beach and swimming hole. Red rocks, spires and buttes complement the verdant vegetation and clear waters.

The canyon takes on an even rougher and more rugged appearance the farther you travel, but the upper reaches are well worth the work. Those willing to enter the wilderness will discover a profusion of unfrequented pools surrounded by tall forests and colorful cliffs.

HOW TO GET THERE

From Flagstaff, drive south on Interstate 17 to the Verde Valley Exit 287 and turn right (west) onto State Route 260 toward Clarkdale. Follow the signs and turn right into Tuzigoot National Monument. After crossing the Verde River bridge, take the first left onto unpaved Forest Service Road 131, marked Sycamore Canyon Wilderness Area. Continue about 9 miles to the parking area and trailhead, and access to the creek's pools. Information: Peaks Ranger District, (928) 526-0866.

Haigler CREEK

Named AFTER JOSEPH HAIGLER, one of the Territory's pioneering cattlemen, Haigler Creek (right) remains a little-known summer hideaway about 120 miles northeast of Phoenix.

Surrounded by the evergreens of the Mogollon Rim and tucked away in the imposing Hellsgate Wilderness, the creek is easily accessed by Tonto National Forest dirt roads. In fact, you can drive right up to a perfect wading area at the crossing of Forest Service Road 200 and Haigler Creek.

Impressive rock formations beckon swimmers to bushwhack upstream or downstream, along rocky ridges and steep slopes leading from the crossing. Although you can expect the going to be rough, you'll discover the creek's seductive treasures-slick stone tubs cradling cold, crystalline water.

There are primitive rest room facilities but no trash services.

HOW TO GET THERE

From Payson, drive northeast on State Route 260 about 24 miles to Forest Service Road 291. Turn right onto the unpaved road and drive 3 miles to FR 200. Turn right and drive about 5 miles to the creek. Information: Pleasant Valley Ranger District, (928) 462-4300.

Havasu CANYON

NOT ALL SWIMMING HOLES are created equal. The Havasupai Indians in Havasu Canyon know this first-hand as the protectors of the most sacred and the most sought-after waterfalls and pools in the state.

The "People of the Blue-green Waters" live in this isolated side canyon, which is part of the extensive Grand Canyon system in northern Arizona. Havasu Canyon lures visitors seeking the beauty of the three main waterfalls and travertine pools brimming with turquoise water. Torrents rush from the 75-foot Navajo Falls and the nearby 120-foot Havasu Falls to drop playfully down into invigorating natural swimming pools.

However, it takes more work to get to the stunning sacred Mooney Falls, where the stream plummets 190 feet to fill a picturesque plunge pool.

HOW TO GET THERE

From Historic Route 66 just east of Peach Springs, drive north 64 miles on Indian Route 18 to Hualapai Hilltop. You can either make the 8-mile moderately difficult hike into the canyon or opt for a helicopter or mule ride. A limited number of visitors are allowed into Havasu Canyon, and reservations are required. Information: Havasupai Tribe, (928) 448-2121 or (928) 448-2141.

Salome CREEK

JUG TRAIL FOLLOWS A FORMER jeep road as it descends into the 18,531-acre Salome Wilderness Area through a jumble of granite outcroppings to the course of Salome Creek (above) at the box canyon known as “The Jug,” located about 123 miles northeast of Phoenix.

The clear waters wind through a smooth, narrow, cathedral-like chasm, where at places only a sliver of sky can be seen. The deep pools stay chilly year-round, but there are plenty of polished granite boulders toscramble up, providing you a smooth place to warm up before taking the plunge once again into the water.

Those equipped for serious canyoneering can explore the more remote splashing waterfalls and wandering pools shut away from the rest of the world in the natural amphitheaters found in the upper part of the gorge.

HOW TO GET THERE

From Phoenix, drive 85 miles east on U.S. Route 60. Turn left onto State Route 188 and continue 15 miles north to State Route 288. Drive 11 miles north on 288 to Forest Service Road 60 and turn left (west). Follow it northwest for 12 miles to the parking area and trailhead. The Jug is reached by a moderately strenuous 2-mile hike down Jug Trail. Flash floods can occur here during severe thunderstorms in July and August. Information: Tonto Basin Ranger District, (928) 467-3200.

Fossil CREEK

THE MORE THAN 7,000-foot-high Mogollon Rim contains branching canyons, one of which conceals the wondrous Fossil Creek (left) near Payson in central Arizona.

At its head, the spring waters appear in a rush, gushing out of the earth at more than 17,000 gallons per minute. The Childs-Irving Power Plant harnessed the water for electricity for nearly a century and is now in the early stages of being decommissioned, allowing Fossil Creek to return to its natural flow. The 14-mile-long creek travels over travertine basins, one after the other, with turquoise waters rushing downstream.

Deep swimming pools, lush greenery, cascading waterfalls, roaring cataracts and unrivaled beauty led to the protection of the luxuriant oasis, which was designated a 22,149-acre wilderness area in 1984.

So whether swinging on a rope over the deep blue waters or capturing some sun on a smooth boulder, waders enjoy the diversity of this unique site, also home to 100 species of birds, more than 30 species of trees and abundant wildlife including javelinas, ringtails and foxes.

HOW TO GET THERE From Camp Verde, take State Route 260 southeast 7 miles to Forest Road 708 (Fossil Creek Road); turn right and drive 17 miles to the Irving trailhead. It is a 4-mile hike up the canyon to the springs. Information: Red Rock Ranger District, (928) 282-4119.

Grasshopper POINT

OAK CREEK CANYON caters to crowds of outdoors lovers-especially at Slide Rock State Park and Red Rock Crossing. But the lesser-known blue-green waters at Grasshopper Point (right) offer a more tranquil respite.

Easily accessible, this cliffside swimming spot north of Sedona cuts deep into the sandstone floor with depths up to 15 feet. Sycamore and cottonwood trees keep the canyon floor and clear creek comfortable even on the hottest days.

Rangers discourage cliff-jumping, but there are always a few who clamber up the towering red rocks for a better view and a defiant plunge into the pool.

The location is also a perfect place for a leisurely picnic lunch, bird-watching and stunning views of Sedona's red rocks. The area has picnic tables, cooking grills and primitive rest room facilities.

HOW TO GET THERE At 2 miles north of Sedona on State Route 89A, take the well-marked exit on the east side of the highway and follow the paved road down to the creek. Information: Red Rock Ranger District, (928) 282-4119.

West Clear CREEK

TUCKED AWAY IN a secluded corner of the Coconino National Forest, West Clear Creek tumbles through more than 20 miles of canyon country in the isolated 15,238acre West Clear Creek Wilderness area. There are four footpaths leading into the clear-cut canyon with the most accessible being the 7.5-mile West Clear Creek Trail, located about 57 miles southeast of Flagstaff. Along the way, adventurers seeking cool getaways can pick sites from the water-carved passageway winding though the canyon. Some of the incentives for traversing this waterway that sculpted the southern edge of the Colorado Plateau include hidden swimming holes, cascading waterfalls and rocky riffles. The largest of about 20 pools stretches a quarter-mile, hemmed in by steep canyon walls, but it takes extra effort to reach these pools near the canyon's middle.

HOW TO GET THERE

From Flagstaff, drive south on Interstate 17 to Exit 298. Turn left (southeast) onto Forest Service Road 618. Drive 7 miles south on FR 618 to Forest Road 215 and turn left (east). Drive 3 miles to the Bullpen Ranch trailhead. Watch for flash floods during July and August. Information: Red Rock Ranger District, (928) 282-4119.

Wet Beaver CREEK

SURROUNDED BY HIGH DESERT, Wet Beaver Creek (above) near Sedona slips through a secluded red sandstone canyon, offering a cool reprieve from the summer sun. Shaded by sycamore, cottonwood and ash trees in a moist, narrow corridor, this clear creek attracts water enthusiasts seeking deep pools contained by rocky cliffs. The pleasantries of this popular destination require a minimum of a 4-mile hike to Bell Crossing, where you will most likely encounter competition in finding the perfect sunning spot. Those intrepid explorers continuing upstream will enjoy increasingly larger water pockets, many of which plunge deeply between the sheer sandstone slots. Once you work your way far enough into the wilderness, the only company you'll likely encounter is songbirds playing in the brush and wellsprings trickling in the distance. Al

HOW TO GET THERE

Also From Flagstaff, drive south on Interstate 17 to Exit 298. Turn left (southeast) on Forest Service Road 618. Drive 2 miles to the Bell Trailhead. The first couple of miles pass through high desert terrain. The first and most popular swimming hole is located at Bell Crossing, about 4 miles from the trailhead. Information: Red Rock Ranger District, (928) 282-4119.

In stony desert crevices, creepy crawlies have quite a society going

Life in the Rocks