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Prescott's Hassayampa Inn Radiates Historic First-class Charm

PRESCOTT'S HASSAYAMPA INN debuted during the era of flappers, hip flasks and Lucky Lindy's solo transatlantic flight. But it became one of my favorite historic hotels just a few Decembers ago.

After getting in the holiday spirit at the Courthouse Lighting Ceremony, I walked a block to the Hassayampa to warm up in front of the lobby's huge fireplace, sip a hot drink and enjoy the display of Christmas trees decorated by schoolchildren. A guest, or maybe a passerby, started to play Christmas carols on the baby grand piano. In the middle of "Jingle Bells," a bunch of us rushed to investigate loud laughter outside. Some fun-loving folks were staging "ice races" on the slanting sidewalk. One would sit on a big block of ice and another would give a shove from behind. Whoever reached the finish line without falling off was declared the winner.

Back in the lobby, looking at the period furniture and the colorful Indian-motif ceiling design, I suddenly realized what the Hassayampa reminded me of-Prescott itself. Both town and hotel offer picturesque architecture-a blend of Old West and Midwest-a lot of history and the chance to enjoy the simple pleasures of a friendlier and less-hurried time.

"Our lobby is Prescott's largest living room," Judith York, the Hassayampa's director of sales, said. "Locals stop in for complimentary morning coffee and to read the newspapers."

President George W. Bush once checked into the Hassayampa, one of the 500 or so Prescott buildings on the National Register of Historic Places. So did Hugh Downs, Loretta Lynn, Tom Selleck and Alec Baldwin. And in earlier years, Clark Gable, Will Rogers and Tom Mix signed the guest register of the hotel dubbed "The Grand Dame of Prescott."

Responding to a growing travel market, the first-class Hassayampa Inn opened in 1927 on the downtown corner of Gurley and Marina streets, in the middle of many of the attractions that lure today's tourists-the nostalgic Courthouse Plaza, once-notorious Whiskey Row, dozens of restaurants, hundreds of antique shops, a string of restored Victorian homes and Sharlot Hall Museum, a 3-acre tribute to Territorial Arizona.

The hotel was named for the Hassayampa River, which, according to legend, renders those who drink from it unable to ever tell the truth again.

Most recently renovated in 2003, the threestory, 67-room Art Nouveau hotel (think Art Deco with a Western twist) stands out with its vibrant red-brick exterior, stately porte cochere, quaint gazebo and a rose garden patio that blooms red and yellow in season. The hand-painted lobby ceiling, Arizona wall murals, period lighting fixtures and furnishings highlight the interior, along with an old-fashioned gated elevator operated by a specially licensed hotel employee. A cozy bar serves patrons beneath the original tin ceiling. The casual but elegant Peacock Dining Room offers American-European cuisine with a French bistro feel and a unique concoction, the "Preskit Rub," which enhances various beef and chicken entrees (and echoes theproper pronunciation of the town's name). The inn's rooms and suites reflect the same style and salmon-and-brown color scheme, but they differ in layout and furnishings, about onethird of which are original, with the rest being faithfully handcrafted reproductions. On a recent visit, my suite overlooked the gazebo and featured one of the eccentricities that make historic hotels fun: The sink, toilet and shower were each located in different parts of the room. Guests sometimes request the Balcony Suite, No. 426. It's said to be haunted. Supposedly in the late '20s a young honeymooning man left on an errand and never returned. His grieving bride, Faith, hanged herself on the balcony and

HOLIDAY EVENTS in Prescott

Her ghost has been in residence ever since. Witnesses say lights and televisions in the rooms and stoves in the kitchen mysteriously turn on and off by themselves. A wreath flew off a door. And Faith makes occasional appearances. "Usually people describe an indistinct female figure," said York, "but they all say she was carrying a small bouquet of flowers." Happier stories abound, though, she added. Men propose in the restaurant, sometimes with the ring arriving on a serving plate or in a glass of champagne. Couples marry in the gazebo and ride through the porte cochere in a horsedrawn carriage. Generations of families return year after year to celebrate holidays or special occasions. The Hassayampa Inn provides a centrally located base for year-round visitors, but December remains my favorite time to enjoy its relaxed Old Arizona charm. And you never know who you'll run into then. Last year as I left, Santa swooped into the lobby and headed for some youngsters around the Christmas trees, handing out decorated cookies. Also The hotel, above, still uses its original neon sign, although the name has changed from Hassayampa Hotel to Hassayampa Inn. Each year, the City of Prescott celebrates the holiday season with a ceremonial lighting of the Yavapai County Courthouse, left.

LOCATION: 122 Ε. Gurley St., Prescott, about 100 miles northwest of Phoenix. GETTING THERE: From Phoenix, take Interstate 17 north 50 miles to State Route 69 (Exit 262), then 40 miles west to East Gurley Street; turn right onto Marina Street to free hotel parking lot. TRAVEL ADVISORY: Make advance reservations, especially around holiday times. ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: Hassayampa Inn, toll-free (800) 322-1927, (928) 778-9434; www. hassayampainn.com; Prescott Chamber of Commerce, toll-free (800) 266-7534; www.prescott.org.