City-slicker Getaways

Saddle Up and Slap Dude-ranch Leather

BY JAYME COOK

If you have a hankering to trade in your Palm Pilot for a palomino pony and a home on the range, we’ve seldom heard a discouraging word about these outfits sanctioned by the Arizona Dude Ranch Association.

Bellota Ranch, Tucson

Quaint, secluded, historic-standing since 1890 in the Santa Catalina and Rincon mountains—Bellota Ranch has ample outdoor activities plus romantic desert bungalows. Open year-round. RATES: $235 to $270. INFORMATION: toll-free (800) 234-DUDE (3833); www.bellotaranch.com.

Circle Z Ranch, Patagonia

In operation since 1926, the Circle Z Ranch ropes in vacationers with its impressive location next to the Patagonia Nature Preserve. On the ranch reside two registered National Champion Big Trees—the Freemont cottonwood and the velvet ash-the largest specimens of their species growing in America. Open October 31 through May 15. RATES: Three-night minimum stay, $390 to $707. INFORMATION: toll-free (888) 854-2525; www.circlez.com.

Elkhorn Ranch, Tucson

Elkhorn Ranch focuses on horseback riding, leading wandering dudes through scenic canyons, mountain passes, serene valleys and open desert 51 miles southwest of Tucson. Open mid-November through April. RATES: Six-night minimum stay, $1080. INFORMATION: (520) 822-1040; www.guestranches.com/elkhorn.

Flying E Ranch, Wickenburg

Flying E Ranch emphasizes the “home” in home on the range, making weekend wranglers feel as comfortable on the ranch as they do in their own dens. In the heart of picturesque Hassayampa Valley, this ranch offers luxury resort amenities in the wide-open West. Open November 1 through May 1. RATES: $165 to $235. INFORMATION: toll-free (888) 684-2650; www.flyingeranch.com.

Grapevine Canyon Ranch, Pearce

Located in the Dragoon Mountains 80 miles southeast of Tucson, Grapevine Canyon Ranch specializes in individual equestrian experiences. Whether a greenhorn in the saddle or veteran trailblazer, riders from all walks of life have a galloping good time. Open year-round. RATES: $178 to $238. INFORMATION: toll-free (800) 245-9202; www.gcranch.com.

Kay El Bar Guest Ranch, Wickenburg

Riding the trail since 1926, the Kay El Bar Guest Ranch makes guests feel like family. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, this ranch offers authenticity and leisure, hand in hand. Open mid-October to May 1. RATES: $200. INFORMATION: toll-free (800) 684-7583; www.kayelbar.com.

Lazy K Bar Ranch, Tucson

Don’t let the name fool you. There’s plenty to do at the Lazy K Bar Ranch, including trail-riding, skeet-shooting, rodeo games and hiking. With ideal weather throughout the year, rest assured that at the Lazy K Bar, the skies are not cloudy all day. Open year-round. RATES: $160 to $250. INFORMATION: toll-free (800) 321-7018; www.lazykbar.com.

Price Canyon Ranch, Douglas

Nestled in the Chiricahua Mountains, Price Canyon Ranch offers guests a chance to ride with a purpose. Go along with ranch hands on cattle drives and chores, or take leisurely rides at this southeastern Arizona working ranch. No need for television at this Western wonderland; the activities and scenery are entertainment enough. Open year-round. RATES: Three-night minimum stay, $675. INFORMATION: toll-free (800) 727-0065; www.pricecanyon.com.

Rancho de la Osa, Sasabe

Originally built by Father Eusebio Francisco Kino as an outpost mission, Rancho de la Osa’s hacienda has withstood the test of time and even gunfire from Pancho Villa’s revolutionaries. With authentic Old West memorabilia and stunning riding trails, this ranch would make Zane Grey happy. Open year-round. RATES: $250 to $315. INFORMATION: toll-free (800) 872-6240; www.ranchodelaosa.com.

Rancho de los Caballeros, Wickenburg

In honor of the Spanish caballeros, “gentlemen on horseback,” the ranch caters to cowboys with golf clubs. A true oasis in the dusty desert, Rancho de los Caballeros boasts a lush 18-hole championship course that Golf Digest named “one of America’s Top 75 Resort Courses,” plus trail rides and traditional ranch fun. Open October 11 to May 14. RATES: $259 to $289. INFORMATION: toll-free (800) 684-5030; www.SunC.com.

Sprucedale Guest Ranch, Alpine

Better catch your breath after seeing the magnificent view of the White Mountains surrounding this range because Sprucedale Guest Ranch offers many unique activities to keep you hopping. Cow-milking, gymkhana rodeos, Western dance lessons and branding provide fun for cowboys young and old. Open late May to mid-September. RATES: Three-night minimum stay, $285 to $405. INFORMATION: (928) 333-4984; www.sprucedaleranch.com.

Tanque Verde Ranch, Tucson

Far from the concrete jungle, Tanque Verde Ranch is a wildlife-lover’s dream. With neighboring mountain lions, coyotes, bobcats, javelinas and other beasts crouched in the surrounding Sonoran Desert, you can forget about keeping up with the Joneses, but remember to keep a close watch for the lions. Open year-round. RATES: $260 to $320. INFORMATION: toll-free (800) 234-DUDE; www.tvgr.com.

White Stallion Ranch, Tucson

road. We rode in single file or in sets of two. Wranglers watched everything, the horses, the land before us, the stragglers behind. The line between staff and guests disappeared. We shared the rides, the meals, the stories.

Like the cowboys of old, wrangler Jim Brady just showed up one day looking for work. Bonnie in the office came first as a guest, went home to Louisiana, made some decisions and came back to join the staff.

“It’s a sanctuary,” said wrangler Rusty Atherton.

Many people have a hard time leaving this safe haven. On my first day, I watched as the women from Great Britain cried openly as they said their goodbyes.

“What ever happened to the stiff upper lip you Brits are known for?” I asked Bob Redman as we rode into the foothills of the Dragoons.

“That’s the upper one,” he threw back over his shoulder. “It’s the lower one you watch.”

On my last day at the ranch, I opted for a daylong ride. At one high point, we could see the land stretching to the eastern horizon, layer upon layer of color, shading from brown to gold to green to blue to purple and on out to the gray wall of the Chiricahuas. We passed a cow getting ready to give birth. The other good ladies of the herd turned to watch us. We stopped to eat our sandwiches, sitting in the shade of a massive oak tree. Our horses stood nearby.

You know, my dad did get back on a horse again, years later, to ride with his daughter in the mountains of central Mexico. A short but good ride. Now, I remounted my horse for the last time.

I had learned something about Dakota. He liked my singing. But I didn’t sing on this last ride, just patted his fine copper neck. As we moved on together, I felt the sun on my shoulders.

That heavy cloak of cynicism I had worn on my way into the ranch had finally, if temporarily, fallen away. AH