BACK ROAD ADVENTURE CHIVO FALLS

Watery Reward In Season, the Jarring Drive to Chivo Falls Pays Off

AS I WATCHED the long, silver ribbons of rain splatter against the wind shield, I remembered my wife's words of wisdom, “Be careful what you ask for.” Now, sitting in my truck, listening to the soft rumble of Chivo Falls and knowing we had to cross an ever-deepening stream to make it back to Tucson, I realized what she meant.

For weeks prior to my planned trip to Chivo Falls in spring 2004, I had been hoping for rain and snow. Snow-capped and rain-saturated winter mountains followed by a dramatic spring heat wave causes streams to swell, their usual languid water turning into rushing torrents. This is how I wanted tocapture the essence of hard-to-get-to Chivo Falls. While exploring the Sonoran Desert for almost 20 years, I have found nothing that kindles my inner spirit like a desert waterfall. They are so infrequent, so seemingly out of place, so beautiful.

This time, I got what I asked for, and more. Nestled in the shadows of Mica Mountain in the Rincon Mountains east of Tucson, Chivo Falls received a few wonderful storms early in the year. The week prior to the trip, the temperatures rose towards 90 degrees. Perfect. I didn't foresee (neither did the weather forecasters) the storms that rolled inthe morning of our trip. The sun had yet to rise on an overcast morning when I met photographer Randy Prentice and friends Scott Duecker and Luis Rodriguez at the intersection of Catalina Highway and Tanque Verde Road. We set off toward the thickly shrouded mountains with Luis in Scott's rugged four-wheel-drive vehicle and Randy with me in my new pickup truck.

We drove east on Tanque Verde Road for 8 miles. The smooth pavement becomes a well-graded dirt road as it turns into Redington Road, which meanders through the pass of the same name between the Catalina and Rincon mountains. The morning light filtered through the ripening clouds as we started our ascent up the winding dirt route. After 1.4 miles, we passed the parking area for Lower Tanque Verde Falls, one of the best hikes for Tucson water-seekers.

We continued up the pass, spellbound at times by the early morning view of Tucson, the predawn lights twinkling like jewels on the desert floor. At 8 miles, we turned onto Forest Service Road 4417. I put my truck into four-wheel drive and started down the trail. Immediately, the trail threw its worst at us as we climbed over boulders and dropped over cliffs. Clearly, only a well-equipped four-wheel drive with high clearance and an experienced offroad driver should attempt this road.

We bumped and gnawed along for 2.75 miles until we reached the junction of FR 4417 and FR 4426. A right turn to stay on FR 4417 leads back to Redington Road-an even more treacherous trail than the one we came in on. We continued straight onto Forest Service Road 4426 toward Chivo Falls. After a half-mile, we stopped for a break at the weathered remains of an old structure and corral, allegedly once part of a stagecoach line. Immediately after the ruin, we turned right onto Forest Service Road 4405 at the fork and came face to face with our first water crossing.

Directly in our path, Tanque Verde Creek and a tributary converged and rushed past, deeper than I had ever seen it.

We dubiously surveyed our intended path, then made the crossing with only inches Vehicle Requirements: Accessible only by high-clearance, fourwheel-drive vehicles.

Warning: Back-road travel can be hazardous. Be aware of weather and road conditions. Carry plenty of water. Don't travel alone, and let someone know where you're going and when you plan to return.

Additional Information: Coronado National Forest, Santa Catalina Ranger District, (520) 749-8700; www. fs.fed.us/r3/coronado.

back road adventure

between the dry truck interior and the icy snowmelt. The last three-quarters of a mile through Joaquin Canyon to Chivo Falls was brutal, with the boulder-strewn road punishing my kidneys. Then the sky finally let loose its wet contents in buckets. We stopped, less than half a mile from the falls and waited for the rain to end, although the roar of the falls beckoned. Be careful what you ask for. The words were coming back to haunt me.

After an hour of waiting, we decided to ignore the sheets of rain and hike the remaining distance to the falls it was what we had come to see.

Chivo Falls was entrancing. Water, rock and spray mingling in the pool below created the continuous rumble of distant thunder. It was more than I had asked for.

After too short a visit, the thunder overhead encouraged us to race back to the trucks and set off for a series of small falls and pools a mile northeast on Tanque Verde Creek from the ruin. Our concern about making it back across the creek before the rain made the crossing impassable overpowered our desire to stay.

The rain stopped before we reached the pools, and we ate lunch in the back of my truck under a clearing sky. We retraced our steps back to FR 4417 and were all relieved when we made the last water crossing. We each took a deep breath before we battled the trail again back to Redington Road.

Once back to the relatively smooth surface of Redington Road, we headed west, back toward Tucson and our final stop. Between the upper and lower Tanque Verde Falls parking areas, a short hiking trail leads to a breathtaking overlook of the falls. I could feel my body tense as we came upon the cliff's ledge. Even from a few hundred feet above and a third of a mile away, I could hear the powerful roar of the falls. I could almost feel the spray on my face. Amazingly, atop the rock precipice leaning into the canyon, the view was a more commanding sight than Chivo Falls.

We rode in silence for the remaining few miles back to our starting point, each reflecting on the day's events. Maybe I should be more specific about what I wish for. But, as we parted ways with friendly handshakes and a little relief at making it back safely, I decided not to take my wife's advice. That would take all the fun out of it. Al

EDITOR'S NOTE: Many readers in the Tucson area know this location as "Chiva" Falls, not Chivo Falls. The U.S. Geological Survey lists the name Chivo Falls, which is, interestingly enough, next to Chiva Tank (with the "a"), a spelling also listed by the USGS.

Disregarding the danger of shaky footholds and unpredictable water depth, more than 30 people have lost their lives at triple-tiered Tanque Verde Falls, right, a site to enjoy with caution.

route finder

Note: Mileages and GPS coordinates are approximate.