TAKING THE OFF-RAMP

taking the off-ramp GREETINGS FROM ARIZONA Petrified Forest National Park Marks 100th Year

AN ARKANSAS SENATOR ALMOST voted down Petrified Forest National Park. He noticed the bill contained the word "forest," and protested that the government shouldn't take over any more timberland. Even in 1899, Arizona Territorial Gov. Nathan Murphy said ". the so-called Petrified Forest... is not attractive in the way of natural scenery... [and] much expense on the part of the government in creating a reserve for scenic purposes does not seem to me justified." Politicians weren't the only ones against the park. Businessmen saw profits in those stone trees. Railroad cars full of petrified wood were hauled to rock polishing companies, and petrified trees were dynamited for crystals. One company even built a mill to grind up the logs. Finally, President Theodore Roosevelt designated the Petrified Forest National Monument in 1906. Now visitors who steal pieces of petrified wood often mail them back with a letter claiming the stolen rock brought bad luck. A National Historic Landmark situated within the Petrified Forest National Park, the Painted Desert Inn Museum and Bookstore (above) underwent a complete renovation in 2005, and now offers guided tours of the park. Information: (928) 524-6228; www.nps.gov/pefo.

Friday Mornings in Tuba City

THE BIGGEST, NOISIEST, LIVELIEST attraction of Tuba City, on the Navajo Indian Reservation, is missed by many tourists. You need to be there on Friday morning if you want to see the Tuba City Flea Market. Tables and tents rise on a dusty lot, and all the usual broken appliances and used clothing go on sale. But side by side with ordinary swap-meet stuff, tables of beaded work, jewelry, hand-woven fabrics and deerskins vie for attention.

Navajo elders, leathery men in cowboy hats and women wearing strands of silver and turquoise over their brilliant green, rose or blue velvet blouses pick their way across the dusty lot. The smoky aroma of mutton browning on mesquite-fired grills floats through the air. The meat and other goodies wait to be wrapped in thick tortillas, to accompany piles of roasted corn on the cob. Pots of stew simmer, frybread sizzles and parts of animals you may not even want to know about cook over hot coals at a dozen food booths.

The flea market is open every Friday from 7 A.M. to 4 P.M., barring bad weather. The Tuba City Chapter (To'Nanees'Dizi) of the Navajo Nation sponsors both the weekly flea market and a daily swap meet at their Chapter House.

To get there from U.S. Route 160 at State Route 264, turn northwest on Main Street. At the stoplight, turn right (east) onto Edgewater Drive. Look for the sign that says "Refuse Transfer Station" on the right. Turn right, and at the dead end, turn left onto the dirt road into the unpaved parking lot.

Information: (928) 283-3284.

Shoo Fly Diners Had Help With Pests

IN 1869, A POPULAR PLACE to dine in Tucson was the Shoo Fly Restaurant. Diners were made more comfortable by young swatters, who wore white cotton jackets and kept the pests at bay. Locals claimed the restaurant got its name from the fies that hung out there and wouldn't "shoo."

'Ready-to-eat' Desert Trout

IN ARIZONA, extensive damming has caused many of the state's desert rivers to slow to a trickle or less, turning the once running waters into dry streambeds. But humorist and official Arizona State Historian Marshall Trimble believes there are advantages to catching native desert trout in southern Arizona's dry rivers. In his book Arizoniana, Trimble notes, "They're already fried and ready to eat when you catch 'em."

Solomon's Dove Maintains an Old Tradition

IN JEWISH FOLKLORE, King Solomon relies on an eagle to carry him upward to angels who reveal God's mysteries. In Arizona, the little town of Solomon relies on a dove.

Established as Solomonville in 1876 by Jewish settlers from Pennsylvania, the town thrived on the founders' banking business, the Gila Valley Bank, a forerunner to Valley National Bank, which eventually moved to greener pastures. In later years, the town's name was shortened to Solomon, and its survival ultimately fell on the shoulders of a different establishment known as La Paloma, which is Spanish for "the dove."

A remote Mexican food eatery, La Paloma was opened by Raul and Prajedes Hernandez in the late 1970s, and became a popular stop for Phelps Dodge Mine workers in Morenci who commuted along State Route 70. In 1986, Nancy and Charles Curtis bought the adobe restaurant, expanding it into the building next door, while maintaining the original menu, recipes and methods of Prajedes Hernandez.

Purchased in January by Tom and Shelly Claridge, La Paloma still upholds the Hernandez's simple but successful tradition of authentic Mexican taste, drawing devotees from as far as Tucson. The unpretentious place, at 5185 E. Clifton St., has kept the town of Solomon on the map for more than 25 years.

Information: (928) 428-2094.

off-ramp A Ham-ane Society?

CONSUMING TOO MANY OREOS and Mr. Pibbs might make you feel like a pig, but on 70 acres in the Sonoran Desert near Marana, Oreo and Mr. Pibb are pigs. They are two of the more than 600 potbellied pigs that have been rescued by the Ironwood Pig Sanctuary over the past six years.

Traditionally considered farm animals, potbellied pigs assumed the role of "exotic pet" after celebrities like George Clooney made headlines with their unusual adoptees. While the breeding of potbellied pigs has increased and purchase prices have skyrocketed to as much as $20,000-some of the pigs themselves have fallen by the wayside.

Though highly trainable and surprisingly clean, potbellied pigs' specialized care often proves boorish for average pet owners. Failing to consider the weight of responsibility that comes with pig parenting (not to mention the bulk and longevity of the pigs, which weigh several hundred pounds and can live for more than 15 years), many owners opt to abandon or neglect them.

Co-founded by Mary Schanz and Ben Watkins, the Ironwood Pig Sanctuary offers a humane solution to the problem by providing a safe haven for the domesticated swine, while promoting spaying and neutering and offering assistance to pig owners. Potential adopters or sponsors interested in the sanctuary's approximately 450 rotund residents are welcome by appointment year-round.

Information: (520) 631-6015; www.ironwoodpigsanctuary.org.

Bring the Southwest's Colorful Bounty to Your Garden

IF YOU THOUGHT ONLY CACTI GREW IN THE DESERT, get acquainted with the Southwest's botanical bountyincluding corn, beans, cotton, garish purple-and-white devil's claw blooms and burgundy-red amaranth seedlings and bring some to your own garden. Native Harvest: Authentic Southwestern Gardening by Kevin Dahl claims anyone's backyard garden can host plants indigenous to the American Southwest. From Hopi blue corn to Tohono O'odham yellow watermelon, Native Harvest marries history and agriculture, covering techniques used for thousands of years. Promote growth and control pests naturally, and learn how the plants have been used for centuries, from fresh eating (Tohono O'odham yellow, crisp and sweet watermelon) to basket-making (from fibrous devil's claw pods and candy made with amaranth seeds, popped and mixed with honey). The book, enhanced with detailed photographs, is a joint effort of Western National Parks Association and Native Seeds/SEARCH, an organization working to preserve Indian cultures and agriculture.

Information: (888) 569-7762; www.wnpa.org.