In Over His Head?

COCONINO NATIONAL FOREST Taylor Cabin Loop

There may be more-isolated, unspoiled spots in the state, but from deep in the crimson belly of Sycamore Canyon, none spring to mind. The Dogie Trail drops to the canyon floor crossing the normally parched Sycamore Creek, connecting to Taylor Basin Trail, which then becomes Taylor Cabin Trail. It parallels the streambed and passes an old cowboy line shack, finally scrambling atop a slender ridge with wild views across this sandstone outback. It junctions with Casner Mountain Trail, which dishes up more great views, then deposits footsore visitors on the road just 200 yards from their starting point.

Length: 20 miles.

Elevation Gain: 2,150 feet.

Difficulty: Strenuous.

Payoff: Historic cabin, seclusion and views.

Location: Trailhead is 12 miles southwest of Sedona on Forest Service Road 525C.

Additional Information: Red Rock Ranger District, (928) 282-4119; www.redrockcountry.org.

WEST CLEAR CREEK WILDERNESS West Clear Creek

Plenty of dusty ditches claim river status in Arizona, yet this furious canyon-slicing torrent qualifies as just a creek. Go figure. Naturally, hordes of cooler-toting swimmers, waders and rope-swingers cluster near pools all summer long but flee when the air turns nippy. The trail alternately traces the canyon bottom, then clambers onto arid stone benches above. After four stream crossings, it lurches steeply for the top of the Mogollon Rim and rewards with awe-inspiring views.

Length: 7.7 miles one-way.

Elevation Gain: 2,100 feet.

Difficulty: Easy to strenuous.

Payoff: Swimming, fishing and views.

Location: Trailhead is at the end of Forest Service Road 215.

Additional Information: Red Rock Ranger District, (928) 282-4119; www.fs.fed.us/r3/coconino/recreation/red_rock/west-clear-creek-tr.

Nearly 40 years ago, a man from Indiana was looking for an adrenaline rush. He was already a skydiver, but he wanted more. So, he decided to swim the length of the Grand Canyon. All 277 miles. This is his story.

BY JOHN FINDLEY

In 1968, I was 43 years old, bored and in need of a new challenge. After 10 years, even exhibition skydiving just wasn't exciting enough anymore. Then I read that Georgie White Clark ran 277-mile float trips through the Grand Canyon from Lee's Ferry to Lake Mead. That's when it hit me: I would swim through the Grand Canyon. This would be the granddaddy of all my adventures. But how? How long would it take? What supplies would I need? What surprises did the river have in store? Since my application for a swim permit had been refused, I figured the park rangers would try to stop my adventure, so I had to be careful.