SCENIC DRIVE

For folks on a mission, the surest route to Flagstaff from Phoenix is a straight shot up Interstate 17. It's quick, and it's scenic in its own rite, especially as it runs into the cool ponderosa pine forest. But travelers looking for a quieter route will find Stoneman Lake Road (Forest Road 213) the per fect byway to connect to Forest Highway 3, a back road into Flagstaff.

The 15-mile trip begins off I-17, some 19 miles north of Camp Verde at Exit 306, and takes about 40 minutes. There are, however, plenty of opportunities to stop and enjoy the scenery, which might lead to a longer excursion. The first 8.5 miles are paved, and although the last 6.5 traverse a rustic road, it's well maintained and easily passable in a standard passenger vehicle, but not after heavy rains.

As the juniper-lined paved road ends, you'll bear left and continue on FR 213 - onto a red dirt road - and begin a slow, steady climb in elevation.

After approximately 2 miles, the road splits to the day-use area for Stoneman Lake. The road to the lake comprises several semihairy turns, but the few seconds of adrenaline amplification are worth it. At the end of the road, bear right into the public parking lot.

Created more than 8 million years ago by a volcanic depression, the lake is a closed system, meaning there's no outflow to remove pollutants.

That, however, hasn't stopped a veritable menagerie of wildlife from flocking to the area. Among the fish that inhabit the lake - which, of late, has experienced record low water levels - are yellow perch and northern pike. In addition, countless songbirds nest in the area, and on any given day, you might catch the blue-winged flash of a Steller's jay out of the corner of your eye. Bald eagles are also fond of the lake and its surrounding trees and basalt boulders during winter, the area becomes a nesting ground for the national bird.

Single-motor boats are allowed on the lake and can launch from a public gravel boat landing. If you're more interested in a leisurely picnic before hitting the road to Flagstaff, make use of one of the shaded picnic tables, or pick a pretty place on the lakeshore. Take care, though, not to disturb any of the private cottages that line the lake.

After you explore Stoneman Lake, return to FR 213 and continue on as the road rambles in and out of private land and through pine and aspen forests and a speckling of wide-open meadows and public campgrounds. After another 6 miles, you'll reach a junction with Forest Road 230, which ultimately leads to the base of Apache Maid Mountain, looming more than 7,000 feet over Wet Beaver Creek. That route loops back to Stoneman Lake Road. Or, you can bypass the scenic drive to Apache Maid Mountain and continue directly to FH 3, which is yet another scenic drive that leads to Flagstaff.

tour guide

DIRECTIONS: From Phoenix, go north on Interstate 17 to Exit 306. Turn right at the end of the exit ramp onto Stoneman Lake Road, Forest Road 213. In the first 1.5 miles, the road comes to intersections with dirt roads, but continue on FR 213 until the paved road ends, approximately 8.5 miles from the interstate. Bear left on FR 213 and continue for approximately 2 miles to the day-use area or for 6.5 miles to Forest Highway 3, also called Lake Mary Road.

VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: Accessible to all vehicles.

INFORMATION: Coconino National Forest, Red Rock Ranger District, 928-282-4119 or www. fs.fed.us/r3/coconino/recreation/red_rock/ stoneman-boat.shtml.

Travelers in Arizona can visit www.az511. gov or dial 511 to get information on road closures, construction, delays, weather and more.