BEST RESTAURANTS 2009

ARIZONA HIGHWAYS' BEST RESTAURANTS 2009

from the big lake in the north to the grasslands of Sonoita in the south, we've combed the state in search of Arizona's best restaurants. Why? Because we know that tramping around, taking photos and buying trinkets tends to make people hungry. Some of the restaurants on this list are classics, beloved by their communities for decades, while others are newcomers, destined for long-lived success. Some are upscale. Some are down-home.

We hope you'll appreciate them for precisely what they offer - whether it's charming décor, great food, friendly service, gorgeous views or maybe a piece of Arizona history. Each, in its own way, is noteworthy.

So, buckle your seat belt. We promise a delicious trip.

Bisbee Breakfast Club {BISBEE}

IN 2005, PAT AND HEATHER GRIMM turned the old Rexall Pharmacy into a sweet, cluttered café; now they can't beat the locals away with a stick. Using real maple syrup for their blueberryand walnut-studded buttermilk pancakes, locally roasted beans for their espresso, and homemade, Jim Beam-spiked bar-ecue sauce for their Huckburger (stacked with ham and Swiss cheese), this quality-driven operation has been featured in both Gourmet magazine and Jane and Michael Stern's Road Food. Save room for house-baked pies, scones and cinnamon sticky rolls. 75 Erie Street, bisbeebreakfastclub.com or 520-432-5885.

BeDillon's Restaurant & Cactus Garden {CASA GRANDE}

IF YOU HAVE A TASTE FOR HISTORY, you'll love BeDillon's, a graceful adobe home built in 1917 and quietly falling apart until its rescue by Michael Jackson (no, not that Michael Jackson) in 1990. Jackson kept and restored as much of it as possible, including the stunning cactus garden (featuring 85 global varieties) and the museum, which houses an amazing collection of Native American artifacts. That said, most people come to BeDillon's for the food, driving from Tucson or Phoenix for bacon-wrapped black olives stuffed with jalapeño cheese, hand-cut steaks and ultra-buttery apple cake. 800 N. Park Avenue, 520-836-2045 or bedillons.com.

Kai {CHANDLER}

FOR THE QUINTESSENTIAL ARIZONA EXPERIENCE, there's nothing quite like Kai, the Native American-inflected, AAA Five Diamond dining room at the Sheraton Wild Horse Pass Resort & Spa, situated on a vast tract of desert owned by the Gila River Indian Community. Stunning sunset views and striking art are the backdrop for chef de cuisine Jack Strong's astonishing food, a seamless melding of classical technique with indigenous ingredients, many of them grown on the surrounding reservation. Smoky wood-grilled squash soup, floated with a spicy-sweet wisp of cotton candy (a playful nod to the Pima cottongrowing culture), is one of many luscious examples of Strong's talent for taking flying leaps of creativity yet remaining grounded. 5594 W. Wild Horse Pass Boulevard, 602-225-0100 or wildhorsepassresort.com.

El Conquistador

ORIGINALLY BUILT IN 1907 AND REBUILT IN 1929 AFTER A DEVASTATING fire, The Gadsden Hotel is called "the last of the grand hotels," a moniker you'll appreciate when you see the white Italian marble staircase in the lobby and the Tiffany stained-glass mural on the wall of the mezzanine above it. The hotel's dining room, El Conquistador, is modest by comparison, but still maintains a stately air. Its Mexican-American menu is mostly old school, too, featuring super-nachos, burritos, steaks, fried shrimp, baby beef liver and roast turkey with cranberry dressing. The Gadsden Hotel, 1046 G Avenue, 520-364-4481 or hotelgadsden.com.

ENSCONCED IN A CRAFTSMAN BUNGALOW

built in 1911, this Modern American bistro is charming and homey, boasting two cozy fireplaces, a relaxing garden and a wide porch for outdoor dining. Chef Tony Cosentino and his sister, Jill (who named the restaurant for their late mother), change their globe-hopping menu to reflect the seasons. Selections might include a fried green tomato and turkey sandwich, baklava-baked Brie with peach-fig chutney or cider-brined pork loin with poblano-cheddar polenta. The wine list has received an Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator, while the restaurant has earned three diamonds from AAA. Josephine would surely be proud. 503 N. Humphreys Street, 928-779-3400 or josephinesrestaurant.com.

Josephine's Libby's El Rey Café LOYALISTS SWEAR EL REY IS THE KING

of Mexican food, not just in Eastern Arizona, but in the whole state, and they've been saying so since Viviano and Marian Bracamonte opened this tiny spot in 1947. Their daughter Libby took over in 1988, and aside from adding two soups to the menu, she does everything exactly the way her parents taught her grinding corn for the tamales, making flour tortillas and salsas fresh each day, and pouring butter (an El Rey distinction) over the house-made corn chips. 999 N. Broad Street, 928-425-2054.

MOLLY BUTLER BEGAN OFFERING FOOD

and lodging to local ranchers, travelers (and probably outlaws) back in 1910, and the rustic restaurant that bears her name has been operating continuously for nearly 100 years. When the weather's nice, lunch and dinner are served on the deck overlooking Greer Meadow - where deer, bears and coyotes are often spotted. But this cozy little piece of White Mountains history caters to locals, too, just the way Molly did, keeping them happy with Hot Dang Chili, signature prime rib and Molly's special steak smothered in creamy Mormon gravy. 109 Main Street, 928-735-7226 or mollybutlerlodge.com.

Molly Butler's

The Asylum

WITH ITS BREATHTAKING VIEWS of the Verde Valley, this tranquil haven, housed in the historic hilltop Jerome Grand Hotel, really does offer asylum from the rat race below. Maybe that's why it's John McCain's favorite restaurant. Of course, it couldn't hurt that the boutique wine list, honored by Wine Spectator, offers 40 by-the-glass selections. Or that inspired New American menu selections, such as prickly pear barbecue pork tenderloin and roasted duck breast with spicy orange-plum salsa, are first-rate. Thanks to McCain, The Asylum has now been featured in dozens of major publications, including The Wall Street Journal. Let's hope all the publicity doesn't create bedlam. 200 Hill Street, 928-639-3197 or theasylum.biz.

Hubb's Bistro {KINGMAN)

WHEN HURRICANE KATRINA STRUCK, Jason and Jennifer Pfaff left their jobs at the Beau Rivage Resort in Biloxi to buy the historic Hotel Brunswick on Historic Route 66. Mississippi's loss is Arizona's gain. Thanks to their talent, attention to detail and wine knowledge (both are certified sommeliers), gracious Hubb's brings fine dining to this former cowboy town. Although the lunch menu has a slight Southern accent (featuring muffalata and blackened catfish), the dinner menu offers eclectic options such as pan-seared diver scallops with wasabi mashed potatoes and ginger-braised beef shortribs with brown sugar and bourbon glaze. 315 E. Andy Devine Avenue, 928-718-1800 or hotel-brunswick.com.

Valerie's Sugar Brook Bakery & Café

BEFORE SHE OPENED HER DRAMATICALLY decorated, upscale bakery-café, Valerie Howard-Goldney repeated this mantra, “If I bake it, they will come.” And she was right. Everyone's crazy about her fancy breakfasts, lunchtime sandwiches on fresh-baked breads, house-made jams and syrups and incredible selection of sweets - including pastries, muffins, brownies, cookies, pies, cakes and the most adorable cupcakes you've ever seen. Nowadays, Valerie offers Friday and Saturday night dinners (the menu changes weekly), while making amazing one-of-a-kind cakes for her catering business. But does she ever sleep? 1695 Mesquite Avenue, Suite 106-107, 928-855-2253 or sugarbrookbakery.com.

CUSTOMERS WHO VISIT THIS PRETTY, papaya-colored restaurant cluttered with crafts from Mexico often want to buy what they see, but the only items for sale are the terrific margaritas (watch out for The Baby-Maker) and generously portioned, made-from-scratch Mexican specialties. The Flaming Fiesta Combo - a sizzling Tex-Mex assemblage of carne asada, pollo asada and shrimp, brought to the table in flames is a showstopper, but don't miss more authentic selections such as steak Tampiqueña (topped with grilled shrimp, onions, peppers and cheese) or mojarra rellena (tilapia smothered in seafood sauce). 125 S. Lake Powell Boulevard, 928-645-4082.

Fiesta Mexicana Family

GERARDO MOCERI, WHO APPRENTICED IN Venice and worked in restaurants all over Italy, brings the real deal to Rim Country, buying organic pasta, using fresh herbs from his garden and making his own mozzarella, breads and desserts each day. From the wood-burning oven come wonderful pizzas and baked pastas such as bacon-studded ziti mac & cheese. His legendary calamari, Florentine bistecca and butternut squash ravioli are all the more delicious for the cozy, family oriented environment he and his own hardworking family have created. 512 Beeline Highway, 928-468-6500.

Gerardo's Italian Bistro Barrio Café BARRIO Café

CHEF-OWNER SILVANA SALCIDO ESPARZA EXPLODES THE MYTH THAT MEXICAN FOOD is a bland assemblage of carbohydrates and cheese, taking her customers on a culinary tour of southern Mexico that invariably leaves them breathless or would that be the potent margaritas? Succulent, achiote-rubbed pork roast, pomegranate seed-studded guacamole, dreamy chiles en nogada and cajeta-filled churros are the not-to-be-missed signatures. Meanwhile, Barrio's edgy local artwork and wildly decorated bathrooms, rife with Mexican kitsch, are always conversation starters, and the Mexican wine list is the best in the state. 2814 N. 16th Street, 602-636-0240 or barriocafe.com.

SHOW UP IN TENNIS SHOES OR A TUX IT'S all the same to Bob and Vicki Brickman, who label their friendly operation "casual fine dining." Factor in the NASCAR memorabilia and comprehensive wine list, and that sounds about right. An eclectic but ultimately American menu offers everything from coconut shrimp to chicken Marsala, the specialties being steak and seafood, including rainbow trout, Alaskan king crab legs and broiled lobster tail. Cozy up to the fireplace in cold weather; head for the patio come summer. 1450 E. White Mountain Boulevard, 928-367-7400 or brickmansgrill.com.

Brickman's Grill Firehouse Kitchen

"COMFORT" IS THE OPERATIVE WORD AT the Firehouse, where butterscotch and burnt sienna-colored walls are hung with vintage food and beverage posters, and seating runs to high-backed upholstered banquettes or plush, black leather Parsons chairs. The menu is a medley of American mom classics meatloaf, pot roast, pork chops, barbecued chicken, brisket, cream-enriched mashed potatoes and gooey mac & cheese. Clean your plate and maybe you can have s'mores or homemade apple pie à la mode. 218 W. Goodwin Street, 928-776-4566.

oodies flock to this cowboy-chic venue, decorated with Western memorabilia, for dozens of reasons — first and foremost, chef-owner Chrysa Robertson's sophisticated version of American comfort food, inspired by her Italian family and informed by her passion for local, seasonal, organic ingredients. A master of the mesquite grill, she works wonders with quail, duck and chicken, makes ravishingly simple salads and bakes up homey, satisfying desserts such as ginger cake with honey-roasted local pears and house-made ice cream. Partner Tom Kaufman, who maintains an impressive cellar of boutique wines and hard-to-find vintages, charms the room with his wine lore and down-to-earth approach. 6208 N. Scottsdale Road, 480-367-8030 or ranchopinot.com.

Rancho Pinot

{SCOTTSDALE} Second-floor digs allude to the colorful cantinas of Mexico, while the spacious open-air deck affords gorgeous views of the red rocks.

Elote Café

{SEDONA}

NEARLY TWO YEARS AGO, JEFF SMEDSTAD

said “adios” to Scottsdale and moved to Sedona, where he dishes out the extraordinarily good regional Mexican food that earned him such acclaim in the Valley of the Sun. His market-inspired menu features fire-roasted corn kernels tossed with spicy mayo, lime and cotija cheese (the elote for which the restaurant is named), braised lamb shank smothered in earthy ancho chile sauce and sweet, griddled corn cake with cajeta and vanilla ice cream. His second-floor digs allude to the colorful cantinas of Mexico, while the spacious open-air deck affords gorgeous views of the red rocks. 771 Highway 179 (Kings Ransom Sedona Hotel), 928-203-0105 or elotecafe.com.

Tanuki Sushi Bar & Garden

{SIERRA VISTA}

OKINAWA-BORN MICHIKO MAGGIE GRACE SETS

high standards for her first-class operation, crammed with Japanese mementos from loyal customers. She drives to Tucson a couple of times a week to pick up fresh fish, flown in from Los Angeles, and hires trained Japanese sushi chefs (not Caucasian 20-somethings in samurai headbands) to sweat the details. All sauces are made from scratch, and cooked dishes such as sukiyaki, tempura and udon are prepared with the same concern for quality and authenticity. 1221 E. Fry Boulevard, 520-459-6853.

IT'S BEEN NEARLY FOUR YEARS SINCE

chef-owners John Hall and Joy Vargo moved from Seattle to Sonoita (Southern Arizona's wine country) to open winsome, wood-beamed Canela, which deftly expresses wine-country sensibilities by showcasing locally produced food and wine. Their frequently changing menu, built around what's fresh and in season, might feature seared pork belly with grilled radic chio, raisins and blood orange vinaigrette; roast quail with cornbread stuffing; and powdered sugar beignets with pineapple compote. If you're lucky, you'll stumble across one of their four-course, special occasion tasting menus, priced at $45-$60 with wine pairings. 3252 Highway 82, 520-455-5873 or canelabistro.com.

Canela

{SONOITA}

IF YOU HAVE AN ASBESTOSplated palate and profuse head-sweating doesn't embarrass you, take your heatseeking self to the original Los Dos, dishing out fiery New Mexico-style Mexican food since 1978. Decorated with cowboy hats and branding irons, this tidy operation is run by Antoinette Chavez (daughter of founder Victoria), who makes everything to her mother's specs, including signature adovada ribs, chile rellenos and bluecorn enchiladas smothered in red or green chile and topped with a fried egg. Save room for honey-dripped sopapillas, and come summer, ask for fruity house-made sangria. 900 E. Main Street, 928-333-4846 or losdosmolinosaz.com.

Los Dos Molinos Vogue Bistro

From its designer-named martinis and bold, black-and-white color scheme to its French-inspired menu and TV clips of fashion models walking the runway, Vogue is everything its name implies: a stylish restaurant that reflects trends without being trendy. Chef-owner Aurore de Beauduy brings her Le Cordon Bleu training to bear on an all-day menu that allows customers to eat as lavishly or budget-consciously as they please. Will it be a not-so-humble hamburger (topped with Gorgonzola, applewood-smoked bacon, arugula and caramelized onion chutney), buttery escargots swathed in puff pastry or foie gras cured in Cognac? 15411 W. Waddell Road, 623-544-9109 or voguebistro.com.

What tiny Shelby's lacks in size, it makes up for in charm, sporting an eclectic collection of tchotchkes and a pleasant patio overlooking a pond. Owner Anthony Tay's Mediterranean-inspired menu, which focuses on the foods of his childhood, features pastas; light, thin-crust pizzas (try the Mediterranean, topped with grilled chicken, pesto, kalamatas, artichokes and feta); and lots of seafood, including the signature Southwestern Seafood Bouillabaisse, accented with lime and cilantro. 19 Tubac Road, 520398-8075.

Shelby's Bistro

VinTabla

AT STYLISH VINTABLA (WHICH MEANS “WINE CASKET”), there is much ado about wine, thanks to Laura Williamson, one of only 130 master sommeliers in the world. She oversees the restaurant's retail wine shop, conducts wine-tastings and classes and maintains a Wine Spectator award-winning global list that reads like a bodice ripper (“juicy & lush” reds, “vibrant & sleek” whites). Executive chef - and Postrio alum - Bruce Yim complements her efforts with an appealing menu of wine-friendly small plates, wood-fired dishes and entrees, including duck sausage and sun-dried cherry pizzetta, salumi, artisanal cheeses and sticky pudding toffee cake. 2890 E. Skyline Drive, Suite 100, 520-577-6210 or vintabla.com.

Twisters 50's Soda Fountain

LOCATED ON THE MOTHER ROAD, this spotlessly clean, sweetly nostalgic time warp - a black and white-floored soda fountain, furnished with shiny red booths and lots of Coca-Cola memorabilia - is a yummy blast from the past for Boomers. But you don't have to be old enough to remember Chubby Checker to appreciate the excellent burgers, fries, onion rings, malts, shakes, ice cream sodas and banana splits served here. The adjacent Route 66-inspired gift shop is a kick, too. 417 E. Route 66, 928-635-0266 or route66place.com.

Julieanna's Patio Café {YUMA}

BURBLING FOUNTAINS, SWAYING PALMS, LUSH LAWNS and live macaws make this tropical oasis in the desert Yuma's favorite spot for romantic dinners, corporate functions and weddings. While the recently updated lunch menu runs to salads and sandwiches, upscale dinner options include a trendy tower of ahi, avocado and mango; signature prime rib; Chateaubriand; and salmon Wellington. Decorated with local art, the colorful main dining room has its charms, but nothing beats a tiled table on the tropical patio. 1951 W. 25th Street, 928-317-1961 or julieannaspatiocafe.com.

ONLINE For more more restaurants around the state, visit arizonahighways.com and click on “Dining.”

ARIZONA HIGHWAYS.COM

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