WEEKEND GETAWAYS

GETAWAYS

CENTRAL ARIZONA SEDONA MAGO RETREAT CENTER

Sedona Not all visitors who gaze at Sedona's red rocks can fully comprehend their magical properties, but the staff at Sedona Mago Retreat Center is ready to share its wisdom of the rocks' hidden wonders. Located not far from Sedona's main drag, on a red dirt road between Sedona and Cottonwood, the retreat gives visitors a different perspective on the area. There is a variety of retreat packages and wellness programs available, as well as meditation, an organic garden tour, exercise classes, and even a free tour that focuses on Sedona's unique geology and vortexes. In addition to all of the greenery outside, Mago is pretty green inside. The center uses water conservation techniques, creates compost for its organic garden, serves vegetarian food in the dining hall, and plans to change its linens to those made of recycled fibers. Information: 800-875-2256 or www.sedonamagoretreat.org.

PARK OF THE CANALS

Mesa It might sound a little surprising that 34 acres of ancient Hohokam canals sit rather inconspicuously in the midst of a longtime neighborhood park in Mesa. Park of the Canals, which also provides visitors a playground and picnic tables, houses the ruins. The park went through a period of downtime, but efforts are under way to raise funds for new playground equipment. Meanwhile, visitors can still make use of the historic park, which is on the National Register of Historic Places. When you're there, check out Brinton Desert Botanical Gardens, which is also located on the grounds. Information: www.parkofthecanals.org.

MARK YOUR CALENDAR WICKENBURG GOLD RUSH DAYS Wickenburg

Although most of the gold was plucked from the hills 100 years ago, there are still plenty of ways to catch gold fever during Wickenburg's celebration of the town's early days. Would-be prospectors can take their time and enjoy gunfights, an old-fashioned melodrama, one of Arizona's largest parades and even some good old-fashioned gold panning. This year's celebration takes place February 11-14. Information: 928-684-5479 or www.wickenburgchamber.com.

COPPER SPIKE RAILROAD

Globe Formerly known as the Arizona Eastern Railway, the new Copper Spike Railroad is officially riding the rails - 50 years after its predecessor's last trip. Almost a century ago, travelers passing between New Orleans and Los Angeles hopped this railroad route to experience the Apache Trail. Today, passengers take the Copper Spike to the Apache Gold Casino & Resort. The train features 1950s-era domed rail cars with glass roofs, as well as restored 1950s Pullman railcars that were originally built for the Long Island Railroad. The train departs from the original historic railway depot on Broad Street in Globe, and tours run four times daily between November and May. Information: 928-645-6996 or www.copperspike.com.

CHERRY CREEK LODGE

Luxury accommodations, gourmet food, spectacular scenery, a stable full of horses... that's just the beginning. The Cherry Creek Lodge also offers a unique dose of history - one that's riddled with gunfights, lynchings and cattle rustling. Waylon Jennings never sang about the Grahams and the Tewksburys. When it comes to feuding families in this country, the Hat-fields and the McCoys get most of the attention, as they did in Luckenbach, Texas, Waylon's hit from 1977. Here in Arizona, however, bragging rights - if there is such a thing go to the Grahams and the Tewksburys. No one knows for sure what started what is now known as the Pleasant Valley War, but accusations of rustling, bloody gunfights, lynchings and multiple courtroom dramas were certainly part of the equation, and in the end, anywhere from 17 to 28 people were killed, depending on which account you read.

Today, the war is over and the Tewksbury land is part of the Tilting H Ranch, which is home to the Cherry Creek Lodge. Not only can you visit the property without fear of being lynched, you'll drive away with a good understanding of why somebody might risk his or her life for this piece of land. The setting is spectacular, and the accommodations at the lodge are equally impressive. In fact, whatever preconceived notions you might have about the word "lodge" should be left in Phoenix, Las Vegas, Los Angeles or wherever else you might be coming from.

Cherry Creek Lodge is indeed a lodge, but owners Sharon and Michael Lechter operate it more like a B&B, which means some meals -the most delicious food you'll ever eat are included and guests are invited to make themselves at home. Come to think of it, you should probably set aside your thoughts about B&B's, too. Cherry Creek is unlike any bed and breakfast you've ever experienced. As you'll see, this B&B/lodge/ranch/historical site will forever change your impression of "roughing it." And it all begins in the main lodge, known as "the commons."

Inside there are five rooms that sleep 16 people the adjacent bunkhouse can accommodate even more. The Owner's Hideaway is the most spacious room in the big house, and you'll want to reserve it if you can. It features a king-size bed, French double doors that lead to a private redwood deck, a stone fireplace, a plasma-screen TV and free Wi-Fi. Not that you're going to feel like surfing the Net or watching television while you're on the ranch. There's too much to see and do.

Although the Grahams and the Tewksburys were likely fighting over cattle orsheep or maybe even a woman, they could have easily been clashing over the landscape. The area is one of the most beautiful and least-visited places in Arizona. The closest town is Young, and that's barely a town — certainly nothing that'll ruin the effect of getting away. The ranch is a few miles down the road, and it's surrounded by rolling grasslands, ponderosa pines, rocky valleys and endless open sky. There's a gorgeous creek, too. Naturally, this kind of environment attracts a wide variety of wildlife: elk, mule deer, mountain lions, black bears, turkeys and javelinas. There are a couple ways to experience the Mother Nature, including hiking and horseback riding.

Hitting the trail with your own two feet is always a good option in Arizona, but in this neck of the woods, considering the history of the ranch and the open sky, you really should saddle up. The ranch is home to several horses, including a few suited to beginners, a few more for intermediate riders and a couple of feisty horses for experts. Whichever group you're in, the ranch hands will make sure you're on the right horse. These folks have been around horses all their lives, and they know what they're doing. Rest assured, you'll be in good hands. Or, if you have your own horse, take it along; there's plenty of room inside the stable.

Either way, you'll want to pack some warm clothes. This time of year, the daytime highs barely hit the mid-60s, and nighttime temperatures can dip below freezing. Not only that, it's not unusual to get a dusting of snow in January and February. If it happens, consider yourself lucky. The snow only makes an already gorgeous landscape that much more impressive. It won't be as blustery as a scene from Currier & Ives, but it will make you appreciate the warmth of the fire in the great room of the main lodge.

It's hard to adequately describe the cozy grandeur of the great room, but imagine Ralph Lauren meets Ben Cartwright with Julia Child whipping something up in the background. The lure of Mother Nature and the luxurious guestrooms will be strong, but the great room, with its plush leather furniture and knotty-pine decor, will put up a pretty good fight of its own. Once you're settled in with a good book or a good conversation, it's hard to leave, which is exactly what the Lechters are striving for. The minute you walk in the door, their home becomes your home. It's a neighborly approach that hasn't always existed in these parts.

Cherry Creek Lodge is located on Forest Road 54 in Young. For more information, call 928462-4029 or visit www.cherrycreeklodge.com.

WESTERN ARIZONA HISTORIC HARQUAHALA OBSERVATORY Harquahala Mountains Wilderness

There might not be a better place to record solar activity than sun-drenched Arizona, which is why in the 1920s, leaders in Washington, D.C., sent a group of scientists and burros to the Harquahala Peak Smithsonian Observatory. For many years, the scientists lived on Harquahala Peak, gathering data and sending it back east to be used in weather forecasting. Of course, it wasn't easy getting there. After an hour's drive from Wenden, the scientists used the burros to carry supplies and delicate laboratory equipment during the three-hour hike up the peak. Burros no longer make the trip to the abandoned observatory, but visitors can use four-wheel-drive vehicles to see the historic site. Information: 623-580-5500.

PALM CANYON Kofa National Wildlife Refuge

The palms that sway in the ravines at Kofa National Wildlife Refuge have the distinction of being some of the only palm trees native to Arizona. Although the tropical-looking trees seem to line every street and backyard in the state's desert cities, Palm Canyon's are believed to be descendants of those that grew in Arizona during the last North American ice age. To see them, you'll have to do a little work. After crossing a 9-mile dirt road off of U.S. Route 95, there's a half-mile hike to the canyon. Getting to the trees themselves involves a more difficult climb. Be sure to take extra water there aren't any services nearby. Information: 928-783-7861 or www.fws.gov/southwest/refuges/ arizona/kofapalm.html.

MARK YOUR CALENDAR LAKE HAVASU ROCKABILLY REUNION Lake Havasu

London Bridge is at its hippest when the rockabillies come out. Circa-1950s hair, a pre-1968 car show, pinup girl and pinstripe contests, and a portable drive-in transform Lake Havasu into a rocking reunion for the weekend. This year's Rockabilly Reunion takes place February 12-14. Information: 928-230-6719 or www.myspace.com/rockabillyreunion.

SANGUINETTI HOUSE MUSEUM Yuma

The history of the lower Colorado River is more than just a record of floods. The Sanguinetti House tells the story of the river's impact on the Arizona Territory and life during the late 1800s. It does so through artifacts, exhibits, photos and even the house itself. Pioneer merchant E.F. Sanguinetti bought the home in the 1890s, 20 years after it was built. He then expanded the adobe building into his own Italian retreat, with gardens and aviaries that are still maintained today. Information: 928-782-1841 or www.arizonahistoricalsociety.org/museums.

WATER TO WINE TOUR

Kayaking down the Verde River is nothing new. Ending the trip with a winetasting, however, is a fresh twist - you'll want to get in line for this one.

Water, wine and one of the best hotels in Sedona. That's the gist of this weekend getaway - one that can be done in the summer as a package deal, including accommodations, or individually whenever you feel like it. The water, which takes center stage, is in the form of the spectacular Verde River; the wine comes courtesy of Alcantara Vineyard, which has more than 13,000 vines and features 12 different varietals; and the hotel is the Sedona Rouge, one of that city's most luxurious properties. Any of the three rate as worthy weekend getaways on their own, but the combination is even better. Tying them all together - the captain of the cruise - is Sedona Adventure Tours, a relatively new outfitter that's impressing people left and right with its expeditions in Sedona, Oak Creek and the Verde Valley.

The Water to Wine Tour lasts about three hours and begins with a shuttle ride from the hotel to the river - that's where the funyaks (a more stable version of a kayak) are waiting. The ride down the river takes about an hour, and along the way you'll see why the Verde has been designated a National Wild & Scenic River. You might see wildlife, too, including eagles, beavers and maybe even bobcats.

The river portion of the tour comes to an end at Alcantara, which is where the wine tasting begins. And what a beginning. The Tuscan farmhouse is the first winery on the Verde, and it's quickly being regarded as one of the best in Arizona. That's because owner Barbara Pred-more comes from a winemaking family with vine-yards in the Paso Robles region of California. She knows everything there is to know about wine, and it shows in her award-winning varietals.

From there, whether you're staying at the hotel or not, the shuttle will take you back to Sedona Rouge, which is a great place to kick back, relax and reflect on the trip. The hotel is beautiful, and the views of the surrounding red rocks from the observation terrace are incredible. Even better, there's a full-service spa, in case your muscles are sore from all the paddling. Or the wine tasting.

The Water to Wine Tour is $129 per person, not including hotel accommodations. For details, call Sedona Adventure Tours at 877-673-3661 or visit www.sedona adventuretours.com. For summer package deals including hotel accommodations, call Sedona Rouge Hotel & Spa at 866-312-4111 or visit www.sedonarouge.com. For winery information, call Alcantara Vineyard at 888-569-0756 or visit www.alcantaravineyard.com.

EASTERN ARIZONA HASHKNIFE PONY EXPRESS RUN

Holbrook It's not too late to get mail delivered first-class by a rider on horseback. Really. The Hashknife Pony Express makes a yearly trip from Holbrook to Scottsdale, running 200 miles on horseback to deliver first-class mail in one of the oldest offi-cially sanctioned Pony Express revival events in the country. In February, visitors will have an opportunity to meet the Pony Express riders and watch as they're sworn in as honorary mail messengers. The highlight, however, is watching as they begin their gallop toward Scottsdale. Information: www.hashknifeponyexpress.com.

CASA MALPAIS

Springerville The name might sound foreboding - Casa Malpais translates to “House of the Badlands” — but this is one very good place to see the intricate and detailed architecture of the ancient Mogollon peo-ple. The complex includes underground rooms, petroglyphs and basalt stair-cases, all surrounded by volcanic rock.The Great Kiva and the ancient astronomical observatory have led archaeologists to believe the area was once a ceremonial center. Travelers must call ahead for guided tours, offered Mondays through Saturdays at 9 a.m., 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. Information: 928-333-5375.

MARK YOUR CALENDAR SHOW LOW DAYS

Show Low After the winter snows melt, the residents of Show Low come out to celebrate. Show Low Days includes an arts and crafts fair and the “Still Cruizin” car show, among other things. Show Low Days takes place June 4-6. Information: 928-537-2326 or www.showlowdays.com.

PUERCO PUEBLO SUMMER SOLSTICE PROGRAM

Petrified Forest National Park Celebrate the true coming of summer and the longest day of the year as ancient civilizations did — by examining the solar calendar that's etched into the petroglyphs at Petrified Forest National Park. The park is home to the largest known number of such calendars, and rangers are on hand during the week surrounding the summer solstice (June 21) to teach visitors about the sun's interaction with the unique rock etchings. Among other things, visitors can learn about how sunlight illuminates the petroglyph at Puerco Pueblo. Information: 928-524-6228 or www.nps.gov/pefo.

SOUTHERN ARIZONA HAL EMPIE STUDIO

Hal Empie wasn't one for an art class, and it didn't really matter. You see, he was the youngest pharmacist ever certified in the state of Arizona, as well as a self-taught Western artist. He passed away in 2002, but before that, the 93-yearold became famous as the creator of Empie Kartoon Kards, which were published for many years in Arizona Highways. Today, visitors to Tubac can stop by Empie's studio and gallery, a wonderful place that's lovingly run by his daughter and son-in-law. While you're there, peruse the artist's spectacular paintings - yes, he painted, too. Information: 520-398-2811 or www. halempiestudio-gallery.com.

Tubac MULESHOE RANCH PRESERVE

There's nothing like slipping into a natural hot spring after a long day of exploring riparian habitat. That's what makes Muleshoe Ranch so special. Crisscrossing this Nature Conservancy preserve are some of the last natural, permanently flowing streams in Southern Arizona. A delicate ecosystem of wildlife depends on this flowing water, as did early Arizona pioneers. The preserve also bubbles with hot springs, and visitors to some of the onsite casitas have access to the rejuvenating waters. Check in at the visitors center for details, maps and information about overnight stays. Information: 520-212-4295 or www. nature.org.

Willcox CHOCOLÁTE

Bisbee is becoming a chocolate mecca, at least in Arizona, with the addition of Chocolate. Pronounced like the Spanish word for chocolate, the little shop is one of about 10 in the country that makes chocolate directly from cacao beans. While most chocolatiers buy their supplies from large manufacturers, the owners of Chocolate go through the process of roasting, cracking, grind-ing, tempering and barring the chocolate themselves. The owners swear that visitors can taste the difference even the region the beans come from. The shop is closed during the summer because warmer temperatures affect the chocolate-making process. This time of year, however, conditions are perfect and the chocolate tastes especially good. Information: 866-221-9722 or www. spiritedchocolate.com.

Bisbee ARIZONA RANGER TERRITORIAL DAYS

Arizona is known for its rough-and-tumble early days, and it likely never would have become a state without the order imposed by the Arizona Rangers (see our story, Too Tough to Die, October 2009). Celebrate their statehood efforts and their continued volunteer law enforcement with a mounted shootout, dancing, a model-airplane tour through the Benson Municipal Airport, and a carnival. Donations help support the Rangers. This year's event takes place February 13-14. Information: 520-586-0952.

Benson

NORTHERN ARIZONA CALIFORNIA CONDOR RELEASE Vermilion Cliffs

California condors are imposing creatures - they're the largest flying land birds in North America and they're capable of gliding up to 50 mph on a good updraft. They're also endangered. Catching a glimpse of one of these majestic birds in the wild is, at a minimum, extremely lucky. Watching one being released from captivity is also something special. Since 1996, the Peregrine Fund, which is in charge of all condor population recovery efforts in Arizona, has reintroduced several condors into the wild near Vermilion Cliffs National Monument. The condors' release, which is a public event, gives visitors an up-close look at these rare, regal creatures. The next release takes place in early March. Information: 208-362-3716 or www.per egrinefund.org.

MARK YOUR CALENDAR GLEN CANYON CHRISTMAS BIRD COUNT Glen Canyon

Although many birds in the northern hemisphere lie low between December and January, Arizona birders shouldn't do the same - now's the perfect time to get moving and check out the fliers in the northern part of the state. Each winter, teams set out by water (Lake Powell and the Colorado River) and by land to photograph the North American bird scene. This year's bird count will take place January 5, and participants will meet at the Glen Canyon Visitors Center. Information: 928-608-6267 or www.nps.gov/glca. Flagstaff is making it easier to explore the area. After a lot of planning and a lot of hard work, many of the city's major outdoor landmarks have been linked together in the form of the Flagstaff Loop Trail. The trail, which underwent initial construction in fall 2008, is a 42-mile path that surrounds Flagstaff and features various access points from within the city. Whether you're a hiker, biker or walker, the trail provides entrée to places such as Mount Elden, Route 66 and Observatory Mesa, as well as terrain that varies from easy to strenuous. The loop, which is still under construction, combines Forest Service trails, abandoned roads, the Flagstaff Urban Trail System and more to create a single multipurpose route that's divided into eight passages, all based on specific geography and attractions. Information: www.looptrail.org.

FLAGSTAFF LOOP TRAIL Flagstaff PARIA CANYON ADVENTURE RANCH Page

Hostels aren't just for youthful adventurers on European backpacking trips anymore. Paria Canyon Ranch melds the group atmosphere of a hostel with a true ranch experience. Visitors can stay in the 14-bed bunkhouse hostel or do some bonding in the group campground. Located about 30 miles from Page, the ranch is one of the best launch points for a horseback ride into Paria Canyon. Along the way you'll get stunning views of the vibrantly colored Vermilion Cliffs. Information: 928-660-2674 or www.pariacampground.com.