WEEKEND GETAWAYS

WHITE-WATER-RAFTING
Upper Salt River

Whitewater-rafting is not for the faint of heart. Nor is it for people who hear the phrase “Splash Zone” at Sea World and run screaming for the car. Nor is it for people who care more about their hair and makeup than they do about anything else. In other words, hair-sprayed, freaked-out people need not apply.

Whitewater-rafting is for people who like a little bit of speed, a surge of adrenaline and water. Lots of water. Canyon Rio Rafting is staffed by people who fit that criteria. People like “Scratchy,” a guide who’s part comedian and part rugged boatman. The company’s one-day whitewater tours of the Upper Salt River Canyon are geared to people who fit that bill, too.

When you arrive at Canyon Rio’s Salt River hub — a trailer located in a parking lot shared with other outfitters just past the Salt River Canyon bridge, northeast of Globe — you’ll meet your guides and fellow adventurers, then get fitted for a wetsuit and personal flotation device. You might think you look like a sausage in a floatie, but you’ll be grateful for the suit once the first rush of water smacks you in the chest. After a safety briefing, you’re ready to hit the water.

Flanked by cactus-and-brush-covered granite cliffs, the river runs between the San Carlos and Fort Apache reservations, and, depending on the melting White Mountains’ snowpack that feeds the river, rapids range between Class III and Class V. After a particularly wet and snowy winter, the river ran at a rate of 65,000 cubic feet per second at its peak in the spring of 2010. That means if you were to pick a point on the river’s bank, the equivalent of 65,000 basketballs would bounce past that point in a single second.

Heed the rowing commands of your guide and you won’t have to worry about becoming a basketball yourself. “Forward two,” “back one,” “stop.” The commands are that simple. Pretty soon, you’ll be amazed by how quickly you’re bounding through the water, encountering rapids with names like Grumman, so-called for the famed boat manufacturer. Some rapids are bigger and choppier than others, and some are a bit calmer, inspiring only mild gasps and plenty of opportunities to enjoy the amazing scenery that surrounds you.

Mid-trip, you’ll disembark at the guides’ camp — a funny, modern-hippie slice of rugged habitation — where you’ll be treated to lunch à la Scratchy and crew, including hamburgers, veggie burgers, hot dogs and all the fixings. After you get your fill, it’s back into the raft for the remainder of the trip, and that might include a little bit of surfing. Yes, surfing.

It’s not surfing in the headed-to-Malibu-in-my-vintage-Woody sense of the word. Rather, you’ll help turn the raft against the current, then sideways, resulting in the sensation of surfing. It’s exciting, just like the rest of the trip, and a fabulous end to your whitewater journey. Or maybe it’s just the beginning. 

— Kelly Kramer

Information: Canyon Rio Rafting, 800-272-3353 or www.canyonrio.com
In the Neighborhood: Irene’s Real Mexican Food, Globe, 928-425-7904; Show Low Historical Society Museum, 928-532-7115 or www.showlowmuseum.com; Besh-Ba-Gowah Archaeological Park, Globe, 928-425-0320
 

HORSEBACK-RIDING
Canyon Creek Ranch, Black Canyon City

There was a time, not so long ago, when getting from Point A to Point B in Black Canyon required a long day, a sturdy horse and a well-stocked saddlebag. Today, it takes about 20 minutes in the driver’s seat of a Toyota Sequoia. One option isn’t better than the other, but if you subscribe to the gospel of Will Rogers, who once said, “There is nothing better for the inside of a man than the outside of a horse,” you’ll want to park the Toyota at Canyon Creek Ranch.

The ranch, which sits on 130 acres in nearby Cold Water Canyon, is located about 20 miles north of Phoenix. It’s close, but not too close. More importantly, it’s surrounded by the spectacular topography — rugged hills, volcanic rock, desert flora — of Agua Fria National Monument. As a whole, the area is one of the least-visited and most-spectacular areas in Arizona.

Like the early days, the only sensible way to explore the canyon is on foot or on the back of a horse. If you’re tired of walking, the wranglers at Canyon Creek can set you up with a number of different guided horseback tours, which are suitable for just about everyone — including 6-year-old nieces named Ava.

“I loved it,” Ava told her uncle. “And I wasn’t scared one bit, not even when we crossed the river. All I could think was, ‘This is very fun.’ ”

The horses, which follow the lead of the wrangler, take riders from the corral into the lush Sonoran Desert, where the trail winds past saguaros, paloverdes and mesquite trees, and over the Agua Fria River. Although there are several other horseback outfitters in Arizona, this one gets high marks because the entire ride takes place out in the wilderness — there’s no urbanization in sight.

Another thing that sets Canyon Creek Ranch apart is its Old West town, which is a replica of what you might have seen in episodes of Bonanza or Gunsmoke. In addition to gunfights and other Wild West entertainment, the town features a saloon, complete with cowboy grub and cold drinks, as well as hands-on activities such as ax-throwing, pistol-shooting and steer-roping. (If you’re a vegetarian, don’t worry, there aren’t any heavy-breathing bovines in town. Instead, the steer-roping is done with a good-sized hay bale that sports a well-worn set of longhorns.)

The cowboy kitsch is great for kids, especially kids who spend most of their time watching DVDs in the backseat of a Toyota Sequoia, but the best part of the adventure is the trail ride itself. The desert landscape is beautiful, the wranglers are entertaining and there’s nothing better for the inside of a man — or a niece — than the outside of a horse.                  

— Robert Stieve

Information: Canyon Creek Ranch, 623-374-5245 or www.westerndestinations.com
In the Neighborhood: Rock Springs Café, 623-374-5794 or www.rockspringscafe.com; Agua Fria National Monument, 623-580-5500 or www.blm.gov/az; Arcosanti, 928-632-7135 or www.arcosanti.org
 

HOUSEBOATING
Lake Powell Resorts & Marinas, Lake Powell

“Lake Powell: America’s Newest Playground.”

That was the headline on the cover of the January 1964 issue of Arizona Highways. It was the first of many times the great lake would be featured in this prestigious magazine. In that first occurrence, Editor Raymond Carlson, the godfather of Arizona Highways, wrote: “Glen Canyon! Remote, lonely and hauntingly beautiful, was known to ancient people, to the Navajos, to a few early day explorers, and then in modern times to a few hardy and adventuresome river enthusiasts. The mighty river flowed on and on through the silent canyon. To harness the strength of that river, a dam was built in Glen Canyon, and just last spring a lake began to form behind the dam.”

That “playground,” now almost 50 years old, has become one of Arizona’s most popular destinations, and for good reason: It’s gorgeous. From the towering red-rock sandstone cliffs and picturesque canyons to the brilliant blue-green water and beautiful sandy beaches, Lake Powell is a panoramic postcard. Although Glen Canyon was regarded as one of the most amazing canyons in the Southwest, Lake Powell is astounding as well, and it’s the epitome of a weekend getaway.

Powell had been on the drawing board for years, but it was born on October 1, 1956. That’s when President Dwight D. Eisenhower pushed the button that ignited the first charge of dynamite used in the construction of Glen Canyon Dam. With that one simple act, the once quiet wilderness now known as “the place no one knew” became a 24-hour construction zone dominated by cranes and concrete and Brobdingnagian Tonka trucks.

It would stay that way until March 13, 1963, when high-pressure gates in the left diversion tunnel were partially closed and the Colorado River began backing up, thus forming the first few drops of Lake Powell. Of course, it wasn’t much of a lake in the beginning. In fact, it would be another 17 years before the lake would hit its high-water mark on June 22, 1980. Even today, that mark (3,700 feet above sea level) is considered “full pool,” which isn’t likely to occur again anytime soon.

Because of the drought that’s plagued the West for more than a decade, the lake is a lot lower than most people would like. At press time, according to the U.S. Bureau of Reclamation, Lake Powell was down approximately 62 feet from the high-water mark. Prior to the drought, which began in September 1999, the lake was at 97 percent of capacity. That number, however, dropped all the way to 33 percent in April 2005.

A few wet winters have helped reverse the trend, at least temporarily, and now Lake Powell is at 64 percent of capacity. Even though that’s a long way from full, there’s plenty of water to keep a houseboat afloat, and, in case you’ve never been, a houseboat is the ultimate way to experience Arizona’s world-famous water park.

Anytime is a good time to be on Lake Powell. The summer is prime time, but spring is great too because the crowds are thinner and the daytime highs are like those in San Diego — in April, the average high is 71 with lows in the mid-40s. Naturally, the water’s a little too cold that time of year for anything other than getting your feet wet, but you’ll have the lake to yourself. Figuratively. Whenever you go, winter, spring, summer or fall, getting to the lake is easy.

From Flagstaff, the route heads north across the Navajo Nation, hops over Glen Canyon Dam just past Page, and ends at Wahweap Marina, which is where you’ll pick up your houseboat and probably spend the first night — although it’s not necessary, it’s a good idea to crash at Lake Powell Resort when you get there, that way you can get an early start the next day. Another option is the Wahweap RV Park & Campground (see sidebar, above).

Before you roll in, though, you’re going to want to stock up on the four basic food groups, along with cold beverages, paper towels, Oreos, more cold beverages, several bags of Cheetos ... whatever floats your boat. If you forget something, the marinas on the lake have some limited supplies, but nothing like what you’ll find at Trader Joe’s or Safeway. If a grocery list for a week on a houseboat seems a little overwhelming, don’t worry, the folks at ARAMARK, the concessionaire that manages Lake Powell Resorts & Marinas (and also rents the houseboats), will give you a list of what to pack. You’ll be glad they did, because it’s easy to forget things like garbage bags, bug spray, extra blankets and bottle openers.

Once you’re at Wahweap, the southernmost of the five marinas on the lake, you’ll be given an hour-long lesson on how to operate the boat, and what to do if things go wrong. Despite the tutorial, you’ll probably walk away thinking: That’s it? I’m pretty sure I know less about boating than Gilligan, and yet they’re giving me the wheel to a 15-ton monster that makes the one in Loch Ness look like Flipper. Did he even tell me which side is starboard? How do I turn this thing on? Oh god!

Nevertheless, that’s how it works. You load your booty onto the boat, climb into the captain’s chair and start chugging upstream. By the way, because Lake Powell is fed by the Colorado River, there is a current, which, if you’re not properly anchored, would eventually drag you to the top of the 710-foot Glen Canyon Dam. It’s not likely, but you should keep that in mind. Of course, if you do start drifting, you’ll have plenty of time to get things turned around — the lake is big and so are the houseboats.

They range in size from the 46-foot Expedition to the 75-foot Excursion, with a handful of other sizes in between. Any one of them will work, but if “roughing it” goes against your better judgment, the Excursion is the way to go.

With five staterooms, this 928-square-foot luxury liner comfortably sleeps 12. When you’re not in the land of Nod, there are all kinds of amenities onboard to make you feel at home, including a hot tub, a fireplace, a waterslide, a wide-screen TV and home theater system, two barbecue grills, an auto-tracking satellite system, and a wine cooler that holds up to 24 bottles of Cabernet, or whatever wine suits your fancy. Central air and a full kitchen make the Excursion feel even more like home. That is, until you look out the window — the combination of Mother Nature and more than 21 million acre-feet of water makes Lake Powell one of the most visually intoxicating places on Earth.

The Glen Canyon National Recreation Area was established in 1972 to protect hundreds of thousands of acres straddling Northern Arizona and Southern Utah. The centerpiece of the national park is Lake Powell, which is named for John Wesley Powell, the one-armed Civil War veteran who explored the Colorado River back in 1869. Long before he showed up, though — about 11,000 years earlier — native tribes known as Desert Archaic people roamed the canyon. They liked it there, and stuck around for a while. Then, several millennia later, around a.d. 1050, the Anasazis moved in and built their marvelous cliff dwellings, most of which were submerged with the creation of the lake.

Although the Spaniards and Mormons also explored the area, it was J.W. Powell who shared Glen Canyon’s beauty with the rest of the world. Of course, he wouldn’t recognize it today, with the exception of Rainbow Bridge, which stands as the largest natural bridge in the world. Like everything else associated with the lake, Rainbow Bridge is big. Very big.

In all, it rises 290 feet above the riverbed below — about the same height as the Statue of Liberty — and spans 275 feet across. When the lake is full, boats can cruise almost to the base of the bridge. When it’s not, a short hike (1.5 miles round-trip) is required. It’s worth it, though. As you’ll see, Rainbow Bridge is the lake’s premier sideshow, but it’s not the only site worth seeing.

In fact, one of the best things about Powell is exploring the lake’s 1,900 miles of shoreline and 96 side canyons. But you don’t want to use the houseboat for that. Instead, you’ll want to dock the big boat on a beach somewhere and use a powerboat for cruising around. They’re faster, cheaper and much easier to maneuver — the houseboats go less than 10 mph and guzzle about 1.5 gallons of gas per mile. Powerboats, along with Jet Skis, kayaks and other water toys, are available for rent at Wahweap, and can easily be towed behind the mother ship.

It’s a good system, and it’s the way you’ll spend most of your time on Lake Powell. Like the man for whom the lake is named, exploration is the real reason you’re there. As you head out, however, remember that even though there are five marinas, there’s a lot of lake in between them, and no matter how beautiful the red rocks and blue-green water can be, the last thing you want to do is run out of gas in the middle of nowhere. And there’s a lot of nowhere on Lake Powell, which makes it an ideal “playground” for anyone wanting to hop off the grid. Nevertheless, being nowhere with no gas would be a real drag. Plan ahead, have a safe trip and don’t forget the Cheetos.

— Robert Stieve

Lodging: Lake Powell Resort at Wahweap Marina offers 350 rooms, and Wahweap RV Park & Campground offers 139 full hookup sites and 60 pull-through spaces, as well as 112 tent/self-contained RV sites. Lodging facilities are also available at Hite, Halls Crossing and Bullfrog marinas. For more information, call 888-896-3829 or visit www.lakepowell.com.
Houseboat Rentals: Houseboat rentals vary in price depending on boat size and length of stay. The 46-foot Expedition, for example, runs $1,698 for 5 days, while the 75-foot Excursion is $10,595 for 7 days. Powerboats and other water toys can be rented by the hour, day or week. For specific prices and special rates, call 888-896-3829.
Information: Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, 928-608-6404 or www.nps.gov/glca; Lake Powell Resorts & Marinas, 888-896-3829 or www.lakepowell.com; Rainbow Bridge National Monument, 928-608-6200 or www.nps.gov/rabr
 

A Site for Sore Eyes  
Although Lake Powell is best explored from the upper deck of a houseboat, day trips are an option as well — Lake Powell Resorts & Marinas rents powerboats, Jet Skis, kayaks and other water toys. If you go that route, you’ll need to crash at Wahweap Marina, which means staying at the Lake Powell Resort or securing a site at the adjacent campground. If you’re pulling an RV, there are 139 full hookup sites and 60 pull-through spaces. Each site includes a picnic table, charcoal grill and/or fire pit, among other things. There’s even free Wi-Fi. In addition, Wahweap RV Park & Campground offers 112 tent/self-contained RV sites. With the lake as a backdrop, there aren’t any bad sites, but the best bet is site No. 26. Situated at the top of a hill overlooking the bay, the views are second-to-none — it’s definitely a site for sore eyes.
Information: Lake Powell Resorts & Marinas, 888-896-3829 or www.lakepowell.com

 

EXPLORING TUBAC
Southern Arizona

There are three things you’ll learn about Tubac when you visit: 1) It’s a real place, not just a dot on a map; 2) it’s the epitome of an artist’s town; and 3) there’s a little something for everyone, whether you like to eat, shop or explore art galleries.

If you’ve never been, Tubac is an easy place to pass when you’re driving up or down Interstate 19, but if you have some time to spare, you won’t regret a stop. Better yet, make it a destination — with only three meals in a day, you’ll want more time to try every restaurant, bistro and café on the town map.

There’s plenty to choose from. Cafés and delis line the streets. If you’re looking for a light meal, grab a hot dog or panini at The Snack Bar Gallery and eat while surrounded by amazing local art. Or, enjoy free Wi-Fi, a cup of joe and freshly made pizza at the Tubac Deli & Coffee Co. If Mexican is your cuisine of choice, head to Wisdom’s Café, which is run by three generations of the Wisdom family. Don’t be fooled by the giant chicken statues that stand guard at the entrance; the food is anything but foolish — even if you only order an original, mango or strawberry margarita, which the menu promises will “knock your socks off.” And don’t forget a devilish seasonal fruit burrito à la mode.

When you aren’t wiping the drool from your chin, explore the more than 30 art galleries in Tubac. The artwork ranges from Southwestern (Hal Empie Studio) to pottery (Clay Hands Gallery & Studio) to wrought-iron sculptures (Karin Newby Gallery & Sculpture Garden). In Tubac, you not only have a chance to purchase original artwork, but you can also watch the artists hard at work on their masterpieces, and they’re more than willing to answer any questions you might have about the pieces in their studios.

In addition to burritos and pottery, another option in Tubac is a game of golf at the Tubac Golf Resort & Spa. The historic Otero Ranch sits on 500 acres and features 98 guestrooms, a 27-hole championship golf course, spa, salon and restaurant that is “great for couples, singles and families,” according to Cristella Lopez, the resort’s groups coordinator. By the way, movie fans might recognize the resort as the primary setting for the Kevin Costner film Tin Cup. After spending a weekend in Tubac, you’ll be able to tell your friends and family that it is, in fact, a real place, not just a dot on the Arizona map. And your impression of the tiny town will evolve from “that easily missed place along the highway” to an enormous, living, breathing piece of communal art that has been carefully crafted over the decades by one-of-a-kind people who bring truth to the town’s tagline: “Where Art and History Meet.”

— Jodi Cisman

Information: Tubac Chamber of Commerce, 520-398-2704 or www.tubacaz.com
In the Neighborhood: Tubac Golf Resort & Spa, 1 Avenue de Otero, 520-398-2211 or www.tubacgolfresort.com; The Snack Bar Gallery, 2221 E. Frontage Road, Suite E102, 520-370-1556 or www.laentradadetubac.com; Tubac Deli & Coffee Co., 6 Plaza Road, 520-398-3330 or www.tubacdeli.com; Wisdom’s Café, 1931 E. Frontage Road, 520-398-2397 or www.wisdomscafe.com; Hal Empie Studio, 33 Tubac Road, 520-398-2811 or www.halempiestudio-gallery.com; Clay Hands Gallery & Studio, 5 Camino Otero, 520-398-2885 or www.clayhands.com; Karin Newby Gallery & Sculpture Garden, 19 Tubac Road, 520-398-9662 or www.karinnewbygallery.com

 

BACKPACKING THE CANYON
Grand Canyon Field Institute, South Rim

Standing at sunset on the edge of Plateau Point, past and present stretch out before me. Trilobite tracks, formed 525 million years ago, lay imprinted in the Tapeats sandstone beneath my feet. During this introductory backpacking class, my classmates and I have, in a way, stepped back in time.

Nowhere do the layers of time stand more exposed than here at the Grand Canyon. Yet the Canyon retains some mysteries. Time twists in unexpected ways. There are unexplained gaps in the geologic memory.

“Right above is the Supergroup,” explains “Slim” Woodruff, our Grand Canyon Field Institute instructor. “The older rock is above the Tapeats. That’s called an unconformity.”

Tomorrow, we’ll rest our backpacks on the Great Unconformity, in which a billion years of geologic time is missing.

“There’s Zoroaster,” Slim says, pointing out her favorite formation. At nearly every stop during our 3-day trek, Slim places the formation like a navigational star.

From there, we can also see our immediate past and future. Lights from the South Rim, which we left this morning, twinkle above us. Below us lies the Devil’s Corkscrew, an imposing bit of trail we’ll tackle tomorrow. Farther below, the
Colorado River, normally green, appears to be the color of chocolate milk.

After hiking 4.5 miles with a full pack, I feel almost giddy. My classmates chatter happily and take turns snapping photos of each other.

“Give me some attitude,” Marty goads from behind a pocket-sized camera.

Elaine, watching a cliff swallow dive and swoop, jokes, “He wouldn’t be so spry if he had to walk down here.”

As the sun slides below the Canyon rim, I wander off to sit by myself. Taking in the layers of geologic time, I wonder how I will stack up.

We silently reassemble as the stars begin to emerge. Lying on our backs, we pick out the Big Dipper, Cassiopeia, Scorpio. The Milky Way stretches overhead like a veil.

Finally, as if on cue, we rouse tired bodies and head back to camp, our headlamps winking in the dark like a secret code.

Over the course of 3 days, we hike 22 miles between the South Rim and Phantom Ranch, camping for 2 nights at Indian Garden. Slim teaches us a little of everything: backpacking, history, archaeology, geology. We ford cottonwood-shaded creeks and traverse a slot canyon lined with evening primroses and monkeyflowers. We pass mines and visit historical structures. We play on a sandy beach. Along the way, we glimpse mule deer, a comically defensive baby kingsnake, the tail end of a bighorn sheep. Slowly, I begin to understand the pull of the Canyon.

“It was worth any effort to get here,” says Ron, who has already decided to come back.

Hiking out on the last day, photographer Larry Lindahl and I debate formations and geologic layers, and what our favorites say about us. A kind of “which tree would you be?” game.

I considered the possibilities. Would I be strong as Vishnu schist? Permeable as Kaibab limestone? Graceful as Coconino sandstone? In the end, I can’t decide. And maybe I don’t need to. My own path has yet to be set in stone.

— Kathy Montgomery

Information: Grand Canyon Field Institute, 866-471-4435 or www.grand canyon.org/fieldinstitute
In the Neighborhood: El Tovar, 888-297-2757 or www.grandcanyon lodges.com; Cruisers 66 Café, Williams, 928-635-2445 or www.cruisers66.com; Grand Canyon Caverns, Seligman, 928-422-4565 or www.gccav erns.com

 

HOPI RESERVATION ADVENTURE
First, Second & Third Mesas

While on my tour of the Hopi Reservation, also known as a Hopi Lands Tour, our group was taken to a small house on First Mesa to buy piki bread (traditional, pastry-thin sheets of blue-corn and wood-ash batter cooked over a hot fire). I giddily bought one of the few remaining plastic-wrapped rolls.

Souvenir mission: Accomplished.

“You’re lucky,” said a fellow traveler, eyeing my bluish burrito-looking find. “You live here. You can always come back for more.”

My face went red, like the countless locals at a Phoenix travel expo who confessed that they’d never been to the Grand Canyon. Yes, but I haven’t been here since I was 8 years old! This was almost as rare an adventure for me as it was for someone from Ohio or California. And like all great adventures that I’ve ever put off, I wish I’d done it sooner.

Surrounded by the Navajo Nation, the scenic Hopi Reservation consists of three mesas, which house several different pueblo-style villages, including Orayvi (also known as Old Oraibi) and Walpi, two of the oldest continuously inhabited villages in North America.

While the Hopis may share access roads and some modern-day symbiosis, their predominantly patriarchal, clan-oriented culture and heritage is very different from that of their Navajo neighbors. The Hopis are so old school, they’re ahead of the new global curve. They live minimally, some without running water or plumbing. In protest of hovering power lines, some villages have very happily gone solar. And instead of using irrigation systems, the Hopis are dry-farmers who rely on the seasonal rains to water such crops as squash, melons and corn, a very important cultural staple.

The Hopi mesas are the land of kachinas — spirit dolls hand-carved from the roots of cottonwood trees. Authentic kachinas can be purchased from reputable dealers around the state, but there’s nothing quite like meeting the artist in person as he (or she, if you’re on First Mesa) puts on the finishing touches and warmheartedly offers the meaning behind each intricate detail, sometimes right from their own home. The Hopis are also known for their impeccably handcrafted baskets, pottery and dawas (suns), as well as their elaborate Katsina costumes, which are worn during special events and celebrations.

While there are several Hopi events that are open to the public — seasonal ceremonies that are usually held on Second Mesa — the Hopis are very protective of their culture and tribal land. Photography is prohibited and, in some places, even sketching and note-taking are not permitted. Certain areas are not accessible to the public without a certified native guide, while other areas are not accessible at all. Unless you are Hopi, self-guided tours are ill-advised. Your best bet for the full experience is a guided tour with a reputable company.

— JoBeth Jamison

Information: Great Ventures Tours, 928-282-4451 or www.greatventures.com
Travel Advisory: While bargaining is acceptable, Hopi crafts still fetch a handsome fee. There are a couple of accredited stores that take credit cards, but home and street vendors do not, so cash is highly recommended if you’re there to buy. Kachinas and pottery vary in quality and craftsmanship for the price, so shop around. Be respectful of the culture and observe all signs and rules.
In the Neighborhood: Standin’ on the Corner Park, Winslow, www.standinonthecornerpark.com; La Posada Hotel & Gardens, Winslow, 928-289-4366 or www.laposada.org; Clear Creek, Winslow, 928-289-5714

 

BIPLANE TOURS
Red Rock Biplane Tours, Sedona

This is how they used to do it in the good old days,” James, your trusty pilot, yells over his shoulder as you exit the terminal and walk toward the big red biplane that awaits on the Sedona Airport tarmac. It’s a typical beginning to one of Red Rock Biplane Tours’ biplane excursions.

After strapping on a soft, vintage flying helmet, you’ll step up onto the wing and climb into the front seat. Although you might be contemplating an escape, James is as cool as Top Gun’s Maverick pulling a 3-G negative dive in a thunderstorm at night. That said, if heights give you the hives, you might want to ride the pine on this one.

As you weave down the runway in the single-engine, open-cockpit biplane, memories of the steep ascent you trekked to reach the U.S.S. Sedona (the nickname Sedona Airport picked up for its long, narrow battleship shape as seen from the air) will undoubtedly re-enter your consciousness. The airport sits atop a towering mesa that overlooks the city, and you’re about to fly straight off the end of its runway into the wild blue yonder. At some point, logic prevails. Planes fly in and out of there all day, every day, and as James assures you via the headphones in your helmet: You’re about to embark on the aviation adventure of a lifetime.

Once you’re airborne, James narrates with a continuous stream of landmark identification. For the first half of the 20-minute flight, you’ll listen anxiously as you pass over Cathedral Rock, Courthouse Butte, the lush Coconino National Forest, colorful Oak Creek Canyon and the Mogollon Rim. You’ll spot Thunder Mountain and catch a rare glimpse of the sprawling Enchantment Resort hidden inside Boynton Canyon. But as the ride begins to steady and your nerves settle, calm consumes you and the euphoria of gliding freely above the red rocks temporarily puts James’ voice on mute. Relax and enjoy the ethereal breeze and the warm sun on your face — peace this perfect is hard to come by with two feet on the ground.

One of the most exquisite sightings on your journey, one that only a bird’s-eye view like this can showcase properly, is an impressive outcropping of red rocks just past Lee Mountain called the “Merry-Go-Round,” so named for its circular configuration. Simply put, the view from above is extraordinary. Then, as you zoom tightly between, and fly shoulder-to-shoulder with Sedona’s highest ridges, you’ll learn that sharks’ teeth can be found on many of the plateaus in the area — the daggers were left behind by an ocean that covered the area some 320 million years ago.

All too soon, it’s time to return from whence you came. But this time you’ll strut across the tarmac with some swagger in your step and the hum of Danger Zone running through your brain.

— Maryal Miller

Information: Red Rock Biplane Tours, 888-866-7433 or www.sedonaairtours.com
In the Neighborhood: Enchantment Resort, 800-826-4180 or www.enchantmentresort.com; Palatki Heritage Site, 928-282-4119 or www.fs.fed.us/r3/coconino/recreation; Fournos restaurant, 928-282-3331