THE MAGNIFICENT SEVEN

Copper Queen, Crystal Palace, Zane Grey When it comes to old saloons - the kind you'd see in a classic Western – Arizona offers some of the most interesting places to get water for your horses, whiskey for your men or just a cold bottle of sarsaparilla. What follows are seven of the best.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACQUES BARBEY

CRYSTAL PALACE SALOON, TOMBSTONE

There's a reason Tombstone's Crystal Palace is known as "The Most Famous Saloon in the West." Much of it has to do with its history. When it opened in 1879, the Crystal Palace was known as the Golden Eagle Brewery. Then, in 1881, Virgil Earp was shot as he walked toward the Golden Eagle's front door. From that moment on, the bar was famous. Or, rather, infamous. Earp survived and returned to the Golden Eagle - his office was housed in the building - and Ike and Phin Clanton were arrested for the attack. Though the Golden Eagle became the Crystal Palace, and the building's façade had changed over the years, eventually it was restored to its original appearance and it remains one of Tombstone's favorite watering holes. Information: 436 E. Allen Street, 520457-3611 or www.crystalpalacesaloon.com

PAUL & JERRY'S, JEROME

When it comes to saloons in this former mining town, the Spirit Room gets most of the attention. It's lively and iconic, but it's not the only place to enjoy a cold one or a shot of history. Just down Main Street sits Paul & Jerry's Saloon. Built in 1899, it was originally called Senate Saloon, and at one time it was a hotbed for gambling - Jerome, after all, was dubbed "The Wickedest Town in the West" by the New York Sun. In 1939, Paul Vojnic took over and called the place Kentucky Buffet. He eventually bought the building and renamed the saloon Paul & Jerry's. Since then, the place has stayed in the same family, making it the oldest family owned bar in Arizona. Information: 206 Main Street, 928-634-2603 When John Weatherford opened the doors to his Flagstaff hotel in 1900, he considered it one of the grandest establishments in the West. Today, the hotel's Zane Grey Barroom pays homage to its famous literary patron and treats guests to a full menu of beverages. There are a lot of things to love about Zane Grey, including the fact that it's located on the top floor of the Weatherford, where its deck offers broad views of downtown Flagstaff. It's cool in the summer, cozy in the winter and reflective of the hotel's history and charm. Information: 23 N. Leroux Street, 928-779-1919 or www.weatherford hotel.com

The Palace wasn't a typical frontier saloon. Built in 1877, it was designed “in the most superb style and fitted with choice liquors of every conceivable kind.” No wonder Wyatt and Virgil Earp, Doc Holliday and Big Nose Kate frequented the Palace. Unfortunately, fire struck in 1883, and the saloon was destroyed. Although it was rebuilt, another blaze roared through town about 20 years later, and once again the Palace was destroyed - almost. Loyal patrons managed to carry the mahogany Brunswick bar across the street, where drinks continued to be served. The Palace reopened its doors in 1901 to glorious reviews. The Prescott Journal Miner called it “the most elegant in this part of the country.” Time eventually took its toll, but the Palace has since been restored to its former neoclassical glory – Brunswick bar and all. Information: 120 S. Montezuma Street, 928-541-1996 or www.historic palace.com

orbs and bursts of light, and visitors have reported seeing bar stools flip and apparitions on the upper floors. That’s why, according to an article in the Globe-Miami newspaper, ghost-hunters from around the world have visited the saloon in search of specters. While it’s not certain whether or not you’ll bump into something that goes bump in the night, you will experience a bit of history at the Drift Inn. It’s one of the oldest continuously operating saloons in Arizona. Information: 636 N. Broad Street, 928-4259573 or www.driftinnsaloon.com Just as the Copper Queen (see No. 7) brought a dose of nightlife to Bisbee, its counterpart in Globe did the same. When it opened in 1902, the Drift Inn was a favorite among miners. Today, it’s a fixture along Globe’s Broad Street, and in addition to beer and cocktails, it’s known for another kind of spirit: ghosts. Some photographs made in the Drift Inn feature inexplicable

DRIFT INN, GLOBE GRAND HOTEL, BISBEE

Time has a way of standing still when you visit the Bisbee Grand Saloon, located next to the Bisbee Grand Hotel. Built in 1906, the saloon’s antique back-bar fixture actually predates the building itself. That’s because

"IT'S ONLY HALF-PAST TWELVE, BUT I DON'T CARE. IT'S FIVEO'CLOCK SOMEWHERE."

the piece, which dates back to the 1880s, was hauled from Tombstone's Pony Bar to Bisbee. In addition to the back-bar, the saloon still maintains much of its original look and feel, thanks to the pressed-tin tiles that line the ceiling and the Victorian wallpaper. And like so many other Western saloons, this place is said to be haunted. Ladies beware: Its ghost tends to linger near the women's restroom. Information: 61 Main Street, 520-4325900 or www.bisbeegrandhotel.com In the early part of the 20th century, Bisbee was the largest city between St. Louis and San Francisco. To accommodate the masses, Phelps Dodge built the Copper Queen Hotel. When it opened in 1902, its saloon had seating for 12 people. The rest of the space was devoted to offices for Western Union, the land surveyor and the Bisbee Chamber of Commerce. Today, the saloon has room for up to 50 people, and it retains one of its original pieces of art: a century-old painting of English stage actress Lillie Langtry. Information: 11 Howell Avenue, 520-432-2216 or www.cop perqueen.com AH