SCENIC DRIVE

Three decades of working at El Tovar have given Thomas Ratz time to assemble perhaps the world's most impressive collection of Grand Canyon correspondence.

Rise of opulent accommodations perched on the edge of the South Rim. Ratz's col-lections document not only what visitors did while staying at El Tovar, but also the ways the resort sought to please its guests, who apparently spent a lot of time sitting in the hotel writing letters and postcards.

"There was a solarium room for the ladies, and also a smoking lounge on the mezzanine level," Ratz says. "Fresh food was brought in daily on trains so that the restaurant could offer a different chef's special every day. The food was kept cool in troughs in the basement."

Because Ratz has been a server at El Tovar's restaurant for more than three decades, he knows the difficulty of pro-viding fine dining at a remote place such as the Grand Canyon, and he's fascinat-ed with the menu options from earlier times. A 1908 El Tovar dinner menu fea-tures lamb's tongue. For breakfast, the offerings included sirloin steak, veal cut-lets and pork with fried apples. In 1909, dinner choices included prime rib and prune soufflé. During World War II, food rationing resulted in patrons being lim-ited to one pat of butter each.

Of all the correspondence that he's amassed, Ratz's favorite is what he calls the Grace Watkins Collection. The set of letters, which he purchased online for $60, was written by Watkins between 1916 and 1932, when she worked as a clerk at El Tovar's art gallery and gift shop. "She was such a name-dropper," Ratz says. "The letters show all the famous people who came to the Grand Canyon during that period."

A 1919 letter from Watkins to her family reads, in part: "We have the Russian composer S. Rachmaninoff registered. Goodness! I hope someone will ask him to play." In a 1921 letter she writes: "Madame Curie was here. We saw very little of her. She was ill and looked very frail." Watkins also writes about a 1920 visit from the Prince of India and, in 1926, one from the Prince of Sweden.

As the unofficial historian of El Tovar, Ratz is the go-to guy for guests seeking informa-tion about the hotel's past. He also authored a book, Grand Canyon National Park, which was published in 2009 by Arcadia Publishing as part of its Postcard History Series. For Ratz, the collections of postcards and letters sent from Grand Canyon are his legacy and a significant contribution to the national park's history. But there's also a deeply personal connection to the past that drives his fascination.

"Some days, I'll just sit and read the letters," he says. "[They're] like messages in bottles from the people who wrote them. I can hear their voices."

For reservations at El Tovar, call 928-638-2631 or visit www.grandcanyonlodges.com/eltovar. AH

scenic drive Mount Ord

Some scenic drives require a certain amount of commitment. Whether it's time, vehicle require-ments or sheer guts, you often have to give a little in order to get Arizona's spectacular views in return. Fortunately, the drive to Mount Ord is the exception. No sacrifice is required. In fact, this drive is more about bang than buck, so to speak. The views are breath-taking, the trip itself is quick and the fist-clenching moments are few and far between. Really, this drive is ideal for out-of-town visitors on the go or in-laws in need of entertainment.From Fountain Hills, take State Route 87 (the Beeline Highway) northeast toward Payson. Turn right (east) at the clearly marked turnoff for Mount Ord, Forest Road 626, near Milepost 223. The road goes from pavement to graded dirt in a

matter of seconds. Although it's well maintained, there are a few bumps in this road, and a standard SUV is your best bet. In inclement weather, a high-clearance vehicle is an absolute must. Heading uphill, it isn't long before you'll be treated to gorgeous views of the Mazatzal Mountains. Tight switch-backs and no guardrail give thrill-seekers a temporary rush as the road climbs steadily - steeply in some parts. At Mile 1.6, there's room to pull over and enjoy the beauty. Despite how easily accessible FR 626 is, it's remarkably quiet. There's only the hum of Mother Nature in the air. In less than a mile, the landscape - dotted with scrub oaks, piñon pines and agaves - dramatically shifts, and you'll be lost in a forest of pine trees.

As the road continues to climb, a real “wow” moment occurs near the 3-mile mark. A dramatic, panoramic view of the Mogollon Rim reveals itself, and from this vantage point, you can clearly see the sheer cliff face that is the southern-most edge of the Colorado Plateau. It's an impressive sight that will leave even the