New Navihopi Highway Pictures

July, 1935 ARIZONA HIGHWAYS

No second to Commissioner Addams' motion, however, a great deal of discussion was had on the matter.

It was regularly moved by Commissioner Addams, seconded by Commissioner Seale, and unanimously carried, that a resolution designating as a State Route the road from Globe to Showlow, be approved.

It was regularly moved by Commissioner Addams, seconded by Commissioners Seale and Barth, and unanimously carried, that a resolution authorizing the Secretary to notify the Boards of Supervisors of Apache and Navajo Counties of the intention of the Highway Commission to designate as a State Highway the road from Globe to Showlow, be approved.

It was regularly moved by Commissioner Seale, seconded by Commissioners Addams and Barth, and unanimously carried, that a resolution declaring a state route of that portion of State Route 287, from Florence, Arizona, to the Junction of 87, near Coolidge, Arizona, be adopted.

It was regularly moved by Commissioner Angle, seconded by Commissioner Barth and unanimously carried, that a resolution authorizing the Secretary to notify the Board of Supervisors of Pinal County of the intention of the Highway Commissioner to designate as a State Highway that portion of State Route 287, from Florence, Arizona, to the Junction of 87, near Coolidge, Arizona, be adopted.

It was regularly moved by Commissioner Seale, seconded by Commissioners Barth and Addams, and unanimously carried, that a resolution designating as a State Route the highway from the National Park Boundary near Desert View, East to the Junction of Highway 89 near Cameron, be adopted. It was regularly moved by Commissioner Addams, seconded by Commissioner Barth, and unanimously carried, that a resolution authorizing the Secretary to notify the Board of Supervisors of Coconino County of the intention of the Commission to designate as a State Highway that road from the National Park Boundary near Desert View East to the Junction of Highway 89 near Cameron, be adonted.

It was regularly moved by Commissioner Barth, seconded by Commissioner Addams, and unanimously carried, that the Secretary be authorized to notify the Apache County and the Navajo County Boards of Supervisors of the intention of the Highway Commission to designate as a State Highway that road from Showlow to Springerville. The matter of the permit requested to use the highway right of way to lay a 2 inch pipe line for a distance of about 1500 feet in order to pipe water from McDermot Springs to the Parks School District, on which action was deferred at the last meeting, was again presented by the Secretary. It was regularly moved by Commissioner Seale and seconded by Commissioner Angle that the permit, as requested, be granted. On the call of the roll, Commissioner Addams voted "No", Commissioner Seale "Yes", Commissioner Barth "No", Commissioner Angle "Yes", and Commissioner Dowell "No". The motion was lost.

It was regularly moved by Commissioner Barth, seconded by Commissioner Addams, and unanimously carried, that the Secretary be instructed to notify the Boards of Supervisors of Apache and Navajo Counties, of the intention of the Highway Commission to designate as a State Highway that road between Showlow, Arizona, and Concho, Arizona. It was regularly moved, seconded and carried that the Commission adjourr. at 5.10 m., June 12, 1935, to meet again in their offices in the Highway Building at 10:00 a. m., June 17, 1935.

June 17, 1935

The Arizona State Highway Commissin met in regular session in their ofThe Arizona State Highway Commission met in regular session in their offices in the Highway Building at 10:00 a. m., June 17, 1935. Those present were Chairman Dowell, Vice-Chairman Angle, Commissions Addams, Barth and Seale, also the State Engineer, the Secretary and Assistant Attorney General Murphy.

The Secretary read an excerpt as forwarded by the Cochise County Board of Supervisors, taken from their minutes of June 15, 1935, stating that on a motion made by Supervisor Wimberly, seconded by Supervisor Cox and carried, Supervisor Page voting "No", the resolution adopted by the Board of Supervisors, Cochise County, Arizona, on January 20, 1933, requesting the Arizona State Highway Commission to designate and take over the maintenance of the highway between Steins Pass and Benson, Cochise County, Arizona, as a part of the State Highway System, was rescinded. It was regularly moved b Commissioner Addams, seconded by Commissioner Barth and carried, Commissioner Angle voting "No", that the action of the Board of Supervisors of Cochise County be approved and their former action be rescinded.

ARIZONA HIGHWAYS

designate and take over the maintenance of the highway between Steins Pass and Benson, Cochise County, Arizona, as a part of the State Highway System, was rescinded. It was regu larly moved b Commissioner Addams, seconded by Commissioner Barth and carried, Commissioner Angle voting "No", that the action of the Board of Supervisors of Cochise County be approved and their former action be rescinded.

The Commission recessed to meet in the House Chambers of the Capitol Building to hold the public hearing on the 1935-1936 tentative budget.

The Commission reconvened in the House Chambers in the Capitol Building at 10:15 a. m., June 17, 1935, all members present. Chairman Dowell advised the delegates present that the Commission had met for the purpose of holding a public hearing on the 1935-1936 tentative budget, as is required by law, and that in order to expedite matters, each County would be allowed ten minutes in which to express themselves concerning the tentative budget.

Representatives from every county in the state appeared before the commission and approved the 1935-36 budget, the two exceptions being Pima County and northern Cochise County. Mr. A. H. Condron of the Tucson Chamber of Commerce and Mr. Vernon Davis, of northern Cochise County requested that sufficient funds be set up in the budget to start a project on the Steins Pass Highway.

Mr. W. B. Kelly of Safford, representing the Graham County Chamber of Commerce, and Mr. Glenn Hoopes, Chairman of the Board of Supervisors of Graham County, requested that Graham County be allowed to participate in the distribution of the $1,000,000 available for County Road Systems, in an amount of at least $20,000, which is the amount of the one cent federal gas tax paid in Graham County.

Afternoor Session

State Engineer O'Connell advised the Commission that there is a possibility on the $1400 per year per man limitation, that when the rules and regulations come out, the Department will be able to do only a certain amount of work, similar to the old CWA program. With that in mind, after conferring with the Attorney General and being advised it is perfectly legal, he had prepared a list of contingency projects to cover uncertain requirements or requests of the Federal Government relative to Relief Labor, which he submitted to the Commission for their consideration.

It was regularly moved by Commissioner Angle, and seconded by Commissioner Seale, that an item be set up for the Willcox road off of the State Highway System. On the call of the roll, Commissioner Addams voted "No", Commissioner Angle "Yes", Commissioner Barth "No", Commissioner Seale "Yes", and Commissioner Dowell "No". The motion was lost.

After further consideration, it was regularly moved by Commissioner Barth, seconded by Commissioner Addams, and unanimously carried, that a supplement to the 1935-1936 budget, as submitted by State Engineer O'Connell, be approved.

State Engineer O'Connell advising the Commission that under the limitations of $1400 per man per year, some of the higher type work could not be done, referred the Commission to Pages 23 to 32 inclusive of the 1935-1936 Tentative Budget, on which pages projects set up to be constructed with funds allotted to construction projects on the 7% and Non 7% Highway System, had been broken down into two A.F.E.'s, so that if under the rules and regulations it would be impossible to do the oil surfacing of a project, the oil surfacing could be killed and the work of grading and draining would still be left.

In considering the budget items on the aforementioned pages, it was regularly moved by Commissioner Seale, seconded by Commissioner Barth and unanimously carried, that the road between Congress Junction and Aguila be made a secondary road and $100 be set up for construction only; maintenance to be taken care of by the Counties.

It was regularly moved by Commissioner Seale, seconded by Commissioner Barth and unanimously carried, that the road North of Douglas, from a point at the Junction of Highway 81 to the Wonderland of Rocks, be made a secondary road and $100 be set up for it.

There being no further changes or amendments offered on the proposed budget of the Arizona State Highway Department for the Twenty-fourth fiscal year, 1935-1936, it was regularly

July, 1935

moved by Commissioner Barth and seconded by Commissioner Addams that the budget of the Arizona State Highway Department for the twenty-fourth fiscal year, 1935-1936, be adopted, subject to the rules and regulations of the Federal Government and subject to changes made on the break-down of projects on Pages 23 to 32 inclusive of the Tentative Budget.

The State Engineer was authorized to proceed in compliance with the Highway Code and provisions contained in the budget, with all maintenance, betterment, construction, and administration of the Department. On the call of the roll, Commissioner Addams voted "Yes", Commissioner Seale, "Yes", Commissioner Barth "Yes", Commissioner Angle "Yes", and Commissioner Dowell "Yes". The motion was carried unanimously.

Awarding of bids received on Obsolete Equipment.

It was regularly moved by Commissioner Angle, seconded by Commissioner Seale, and carried, Commissioner Addams and Commissioner Barth not voting, that on the recommendation of the Superintendent of Equipment, Mr. W. L. Carpenter, that the lot numbers be awarded to the high bidders and the balance of the bids be rejected.

It was regularly moved by Commissioner Angle, seconded by Commissioner Barth, and unanimously carried, that Mr. E. H. Whitworth's salary as Special Advisory Assistant to the Motor Vehicle Division for the month of June, 1935, be fixed at $350.00.

Mr. C. R. McDowell, Superintendent of the Highway Patrol, appeared before the Commission and requested that $1500 be transferred from his expense account to salaries. in order that the men who are to be transferred from the Stations to the Highways, and whose places are to be taken by new men, might be raised from $165 to $175 per month, which is the salary now being paid to the Patr:lmen on the highways. Mr. McDowell's request was refused on the grounds that the budget had been adopted and, also, due to the fact the Commission had agreed there would be no raise in salaries and this would be considered a raise.

Commissioner Addams brought up the matter of Highway 70, which at the present time according to the American Association of State Highway Officials, enters Arizona East of Duncanand leaves at Ehrenberg, and made a motion that Highway 180 be eliminated and this highway be known and signed as Highway 70. After a thorough discussion, Commissioner Barth seconded Commissioner Addams' motion and it was unanimously carried.

ARIZONA HIGHWAYS

and leaves at Ehrenberg, and made a motion that Highway 180 be eliminated and this highway be known and signed as Highway 70. After a thorough discussion, Commissioner Barth seconded Commissioner Addams' motion and it was unanimously carried.

It was regularly moved by Commissioner Addams, seconded by Commissioner Barth, and unanimously carried, that all previous actions taken by the Highway Commission in regard to the numbering of Highway 70 be rescinded.

It was regularly moved, seconded, and carried that the Commission adjourn at 4:00 p. m., June 17, 1935, to meet again at 9:00 a. m., June 28, 1935.

THE ROMANTIC STRIP IS THE LAST FRONTIER

(Continued from Page 7) Principally to the rugged nature of its topography and the difficulties of transportation. Wild life of every variety known in the Southwest abounds there, and the character of the country ranges from barren desert and rocky hills to pine clad mountains and the verdant, fertile valleys of the Kaibab Plateau. The only towns of consequence on the Arizona side of the border are Littlefield and Beaver Dam, where U. S. Highway 91 cuts through the extreme northwest corner of the state, and Fredonia, on U. S. 89, Arizona's northernmost settlement.

History of the Strip country is steeped in romance and there are points where it reads like fiction. It was visited by Maj. J. W. Powell and F. S. Dellenbaugh on Powell's first voyage down the Colorado in 1869, and was more thoroughly explored during the period from 1857 to 1874 by Jacob Hamblin, Mormon apostle, who has been called the "Leatherstocking of the Southwest" and who was more the trail-blazer and scout than the bearer of the new religion. Hamblin settled in the Southern Utah country sometime about the year 1854 and soon became Brigham Young's right hand man in the district and his principal emissary and missionary to the Indians. He figured in nearly every pioneer activity which was inaugurated in the Strip for almost two decades.

The Strip may be sub-divided into three major districts the Kaibab forest and North Rim country, with an elevation of more than 7,000 feet, one of the most beautiful forests of the Southwest, which is bounded on the west by Kanab Creek, rising in Southern Utah and emptying into the Colorado in the Grand Canyon; the Uinkaret Plateau and Hurricane Cliff region, bordered in turn on the west by Andrus canyon, which enters the Colorado gorge just below the Grand Canyon; and the Shivwitz Plateau and Sanup Plateau country lying in the big bend where the Colorado turns to form the northern boundary between Arizona and Nevada. Grand Wash flows out of the north into the Colorado almost at the Nevada border line.

The Uinkaret Plateau was named by Powell on his first Canyon expedition from a Paiute Indian word meaning "pine mountain, or where the pines grow". "The Indian name Uinka-rets has been adopted by the people who live in sight of these highest peaks," he says, "so I have adopted that name." The hills embrace a group of dead volcanoes with many black cinder cones, included among which are Mt. Logan, Mt. Trumbull and Mt. Emma, rising to an elevation of nearly 8,000 feet, all named by Powell respectively for Sen. John A. Logan, Sen. Lyman Trumbull of Connecticut and Powell's wife, whose given name was Emma. According to Bolton, all of the timbers for the famous Mormon Temple at St. George, Utah, were cut on Mt. Trumbull and hauled over the so-called "Temple Road" to St. George. The sawmill which was used there was later dismantled and removed to Flagstaff.

Hurricane Cliffs, which run into the Uinkaret Mountains from the north, are more than 2,000 feet in height. "It is related," says Powell in his report, "that a regular hurricane overtook a party of Mormon officials while exploring a route for a wagon road up the gulch. Hence its name, 'Hurricane Ledge."

The Shivwitz Plateau is a stretch of nearly barren table land rising to a height of 6,200 feet, surmounted by a number of buttes, principal of which is Mt. Dellenbaugh, elevation 6,750 feet, named for his associate by Powell on his first expedition. The name comes from the Paiute words, "shinibitz spitz", meaning coyote springs, and the canyons and recesses of the plateau formerly were occupied by a Paiute tribe which took the same name. They resided principally adjacent to a district known as Shivwitz Springs. "They cultivated little patches of corn," says Powell, "gathering seeds, eating the fruit and fleshy stalks of cactus plants, catching a rabbit or a lizard now and then; dirty, squalid, but happy."

"That the Shivwitz were susceptible to missionary argument," says McClintock, "was indicated about 1862, when James E. Pearce brought from Arizona into St. George a band of 300 Indians, believed to comprise the whole tribe. All were duly baptized into the (Mormon) church, the ceremony performed by David H. Cannon. Then Erastus Snow distributed largess of clothing and food. Ten years later, Pearce again was with the Indians, greeted in affectionate remembrance. But there was complaint from the Shivwitz they 'had not heard from the Lord' since he left. Then followed fervent suggestions from the tribesmen that they be taken to St. George and baptized again. They wanted more shirts. They also wanted Pearce to write to the Lord and to tell him the Shivwitz had been pretty good Indians."

Three of Powell's party on the first Canyon expedition were killed by Shivwitz in the vicinity of Mt. Trumbull. Desiring to prevent, if possible, repetition of the tragedy, Powell joined Hamblin, September, 1870, in calling a conference with the tribesmen for the purpose of discussing their problems, and a few days later met with some fifteen of them in the Mt. Trumbull country. The high regard in which Hamblin was held by the savages is well indicated in Powell's report of the powwow: "This evening, the Shivwitz, for whom we have sent, come in, and after supper we hold a long council. A blazing fire is built, and around this we sit the Indians living here, the Shivwitz, Jacob Hamblin and myself. This man, Hamblin, speaks their language well and has a great influence over all the Indians in the region round about. He is a silent, reserved man, and when he speaks it is in a slow, quiet way that inspires great awe. His talk is so low that they must listen attentively to hear, and they sit around him in deathlike silence. When he finishes a measured sentence the chief repeats it and they all give a solemn grunt.

"But, first, I fill my pipe, light it, and take a few whiffs, and then pass it to Hamblin; he smokes and gives it to the man next, and so it goes around. When it has passed the chief, he takes out his own pipe, fills and lights it, and passes it around after mine. I can smoke my own pipe in turn, but when the Indian pipe comes around, I am nonplussed. It has a large stem, which has at some time been broken, and now there is a buckskin rag wound around it and tied with sinew, so that the end of the stem is a huge mouthful, exceedingly repulsive. To gain time, I refill it, then engage in very earnest conversation, and, all unawares, I pass it to my neighbor unlighted.

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"I tell the Indians that I wish to spend some months in their country during the coming year and that I would like them to treat me as a friend. I do not wish to trade; do not want their lands. Heretofore I have found it very difficult to make the natives understand my object, but the gravity of the Mormon missionary helps me much.

"Then their chief replies: 'Your talk is good and we believe what you say. We believe in Jacob, and look upon you as a father. When you are hungry, you may have our game. You may gather our sweet fruits. We will give you food when you come to our land. We will show you the springs and you may drink; the water is good. We will be friends and when you come we will be glad. We will tell the Indians who live on the other side of the great river that we have seen Kapurats (meaning one-armed; the Indian name for Powell, who had but one arm) and that he is the Indian's friend. We will tell them that he is Jacob's friend.' "

Powell and Hamblin were told that the three men of the expedition who lost their lives had been killed in the belief that they were miners suspected of having slain several members of the tribe. The whites had come upon a Shivwitz village after wandering in the hills without food, exhausted and almost starved. They had been supplied with rations and directed to the Utah settlements, but about this time the Indians received news of the killing of their comrades and followed the men, ambushing and slaying them with a flight of many arrows. Powell observes that on the night of the council he slept in peace, "although these murderers of my men were sleeping not five hundred yards away".

According to McClintock, "Hamblin had had no special training for the work he was to do so well. It seemed to 'merely happen' that he was in Southwestern Utah, as early as 1854, whenhis church was looking toward expansion to the southward."

The Sanup Plateau and peak comprise an extension to the south of the Shivwitz Plateau, and the character of the country is similar. According to Hodge, the name comes from a word used by whites in Massachusetts to designate a married Indian man.

Early Mormon explorers and settlers found crossing of the Colorado from the north a difficult matter. The river could be ferried at only a few points between the Grand Canyon and the site of Boulder Dam. Two of the most notable of these ferry landings will be covered by the waters of Boulder Lake, that at the mouth of Grand Wash, established in 1876 by Harrison Pearce and noted on the maps as "Pierce's" ferry, and a similar point near the mouth of the Virgin, where a ferry was operated by David Bonelli, known also as Stone's ferry.

Original settlement of the Arizona Strip, such as it was and for the most part doomed to failure, was by parties sent out under authority of the church from the Southern Utah villages and confined largely to two districts, that bearing south and west from Kanab and the region in the extreme northwestern corner of the state in the vicinity of Littlefield.

McClintock relates that Moccasin Springs, a few miles south of the Utah line and eighteen miles by road southwest of Kanab, was occupied sometime before 1864 by William B. Maxwell, but was vacated in 1866 on account of Indian troubles and in 1900 had no population except approximately one hundred Indians. It got its name not from the serpent but from moccasin prints in the sand. In the spring of 1870, Levi Stewart and others stopped there for awhile with a considerable company, breaking land, but soon moved on to found Kanab, also making some improvements around Pipe Springs. About a year later a company under Lewis Allen, from the Muddy River Valley, located at Pipe Springs and Moccasin, and the place for a number of years was mainly a Mormon missionary settlement, but it was officially reported that "even when the brethren would plow and plant for them, the Indians were actually too lazy to attend to the growing crops".

Three miles south of Moccasin and eight miles from the Utah line is Pipe Springs, now a national monument. It was settled about 1863 by Dr. James M. Whitmore, who owned the place when he and his herder, Robert McIntire, were killed by Indians, January 8, 1866. The two men were surrounded between The Springs and the Utah border by a band of Paiede Paiutes and Navajos, who drove off their horses, sheep and cattle. Col. D. D. McArthur and a company of men from St. George set out in pursuit of the raiding savages. Anthony W. Ivins, a member of the party, then a mere boy who set out on a mule with a quilt for a saddle, writes that the weather was bitterly cold and that the bodies of Whitmore and McIntire were found covered with snow to a depth of three feet. Each had many arrow and bullet wounds. The men had been attacked while they were riding the range. There was only one gun between them. A detachment under Capt. James Andrus a few days later found the murderous Indians in camp and in a short engagement killed nine of them.

"President Brigham Young purchased the claims of the Whitmore estate," relates McClintock, "and in 1870 there established headquarters of a church herd, in charge of Anson P. Winsor. Later was organized the Winsor Castle Stock Growing Company, in which the church and President Young held controlling interest. At the spring, late in 1870, was erected a sizeable stone building, usually known as Winsor Castle, a safe refuge from savages, or others, with portholes in the walls. In 1879, the company had consolidation with the Canaan Co-operative Stock Company.

"The name, Pipe Springs, had its origin, according to A. W. Ivins, in a halt made there by Jacob Hamblin and others. William Hamblin claimed he could shoot the bottom out of Dudley Leavitt's pipe at 25 yards, without breaking the bowl. This he proceeded to do."

Pipe Springs was a station of the Deseret Telegraph, which had been extended in 1871 from Rockville to Kanab, Utah, probably the first telegraph instrument in Arizona, as the first line in the south, a military wire from Fort Yuma to Maricopa Wells, Phoenix, Prescott and Tucson, was not built until 1873. Miss Ella Stewart, later wife of David K. Udall, St. Johns, was the first telegraph operator at Pipe Springs. She had learned the code on a wooden instrument during a year's study at Toquerville, Utah.

Fredonia, northernmost settlement in Arizona, is only three miles south of the Utah line. It lies on the east bank of Kanab Creek, and is the center of a small tract of farming land, ample in extent for the needs of its residents, whose principal source of livelihood is stock raising. The first settlement

July, 1935

There was by Thomas Frain Dobson, who came from Kanab in the spring of 1865, and located his family in a log house two miles from the present Fredonia townsite. The following year a number of other settlers arrived and the town was surveyed. The name was suggested by Erastus Snow and came from the fact that a number of the residents who came from Utah were seeking freedom from the enforcement of distasteful federal laws.

Fredonia was described by Miss Sharlot M. Hall, Arizona pioneer historian, as "the greenest, cleanest, quaintest village of about thirty families, with a nice schoolhouse and church and a picturesque charm not often found, and this most northerly Arizona town is also one of the prettiest. The fields of alfalfa and grain lie outside of the town along a level valley and are dotted over with haystacks, showing that crops have been good. It is one of the most beautiful valleys I have seen in Arizona, and has a fine climate the year round."

Probably the first real attempt to colonize any portion of the Arizona Strip was by a Mormon party under Henry W. Miller, which made a location at Beaver Dams, on the north bank of the Virgin at a point where the

ARIZONA HIGHWAYS

Old Spanish Trail and the later Old Mormon Road traverse the extreme northwest corner of the state. Land was cleared there in the fall of 1864, crops were put in and "the enterprise was dedicated to the Lord", according to a report sent to Salt Lake by the leader. An item in the Deseret News says that Miller was "called" in 1863 to head the expedition to the Virgin.

Early in 1865, according to another report, "affairs in the settlements are progressing very satisfactorily. A large number of fruit trees and grapevines have been set out. Corn, wheat and other vegetation are growing thriftily and the settlers are very industriously prosecuting their several useful vocations, with good prospects of success." There was a notation of some trouble because beavers were numerous and persisted in damming irrigation ditches; and in 1867 after a river flood had destroyed much of the colonists' improvements, the location was abandoned.

Between the years 1875 and 1878, a decade after the abandonment, settlers began to come again, and a thriving, modern settlement now is in existence at the point, called Littlefield. The waters of the Virgin are diverted at the site of Beaver Dam, for irrigation purposes. Littlefield is five miles south of the Utah line and three miles east of the Nevada boundary.

At about the time of the original settlement of Beavers dams, a large party headed by Thomas S. Smith established St. Thomas, in the valley of the Muddy River, now in the state of Nevada. St. Thomas has been described as a beautiful village, its streets outlined by rows of tall cottonwoods that still survive. There were 85 city lots of one acre each, about the same number of vineyard lots of two and a half acres each and a similar number of farm lots of five acres. The townsite, though a hundred miles from the dam, will be completely submerged by the waters of Boulder Lake, which already have backed up-stream for a distance of fifty miles.

The Arizona Strip, now completely encircled by high-type highways (pavement for the greater part), with the rapidly increasing shoreline of Boulder Lake on the west; Utah's Dixie Land, Zion National Park, Cedar Breaks National Monument, Bryce Canyon National Park to the northward; Rainbow Natural Bridge and the Navajo country to the east; the North Rim of the Grand