LETTERS AND E-MAIL

taking the off-ramp Arizona oddities, attractions and pleasures UA Center Houses Photography's Elite

The most revered photographer of the American landscape, Ansel Adams, may have loved Yosemite National Park best, but when he chose a home for his archive, he picked Tucson. In fact, Adams cofounded the University of Arizona's Center for Creative Photography, which now houses Adams' negatives, contact sheets and prints, including the iconic ones of Half Dome in Yosemite and, arguably his most revered image, "Moonrise, Hernandez, New Mexico."

Unlike most museums, where the public only has access to current exhibits, visitors can view the center's prints through its PrintViewing program. Simply call to make an appointment. In addition to housing Adams' work, the center holds the works of other greats, including photojournalist Lola Alvarez Bravo and famed fashion and portrait photographer Richard Avedon. The center's print collection contains a "who's who" of 20th-century shutterbugs, including Diane Arbus, Eugene Atget, Henri CartierBresson, Imogen Cunningham, Man Ray, Robert Mapplethorpe, Weegee and Garry Winogrand. A small gallery on the first floor holds free exhibits that range from retrospectives to artist-curated contemporary works. Information: (520) 621-7968.

Cactus Flower in a Bottle

To inspire romance this spring, forget roses and think cacti. So says Joann Petz, who has launched a fragrance line that captures the scent of the desert nightblooming cereus, also called the Arizona queen-of-thenight cactus. While cozying up to a cactus doesn't sound like a prelude to love, Petz, owner and president of Once in a Bloom Fragrances, insists there's something "intriguing and sexy" about this scent called "Desert Queen." Perhaps it's the fact that the queen-of-the-night cactus, known in the botanical world as Peniocereus greggii, unfolds its buds to reveal dramatic white blossoms only once a year. For love at first whiff, the fragrance can be sampled at the gift shop at Phoenix's Desert Botanical Garden, which receives a percentage of sales proceeds. Information: toll free (866) 663-2566, www.onceinabloom.com.

THIS MONTH IN ARIZONA

1539 Father Marcos de Niza, looking for cities of gold, explores Arizona and claims it for Spain.

1850 Yuma Indians massacre a group of ferrymen at Yuma Crossing at the confluence of the Colorado and Gila rivers. Fifteen die and three escape to coastal cities.

1869 A mail rider is attacked by Indians at Apache Pass. For the third time in three months, the mail is captured by the Indians.

1870 Separated from the Department of the Pacific, the subdistrict of Arizona becomes its own department, under the terms of President Grant's Peace Policy.

1913 Electric lights are installed in Prescott's homes and businesses for the first time.

ored as "Father of Arizona" with a monument dedication near Florence.

See Grand Canyon Caverns by Flashlight

U.S. Route 66 kitsch lovers have nothing to fear from recent upgrades at the Grand Canyon Caverns, about 60 miles east of Kingman. The scowling Tyrannosaurus rex and the authentic Indian teepee are staying put. New owners John and Frank McEnulty and Mike Kadletz have preserved the old-time charm of the landmark they've visited for 25 years, while renovating the caverns, the 48-room motel and the restaurant/curio shop. The biggest change, along with satellite TV and a modern telephone system, are the cavern tours. Along with the 45-minute narrated walk through the dry limestone caverns, the new owners have added a flashlight tour that highlights the caverns' glittering selenite and mica crystals and mineral deposits. "It's like going into a giant jewel box," McEnulty says. They also have a two-hour explorer's tour for physically fit adults. The explorers don headlamps and nylon suits to visit the cave's mystery room, crawl narrow passageways into an undeveloped, adjoining cavern and climb the 60foot swinging bridge built by Hoover Dam engineers in 1938. Other new offerings at the 800-acre property include hiking trails, a rodeo ring and horseback rides. Information: (928) 422-3223 or 422-3224.