BACK ROAD ADVENTURE Point of Pines

through Florence Junction and on to Globe, where it connects with U.S. Route 70.

If you're coming from Tucson, drive north on Oracle Road, which becomes State Route 77, and follow it to its junction with U.S. 70 on the eastern outskirts of Globe.

From the junction of 77 and 70, drive east on 70. You'll need to buy the tribe's $7 per day recreational-use permit to go to Point of Pines. You can get it at the Chevron station 5 miles east of the junction with 77, adjacent to the Apache Gold Casino on Highway 70.

It's only 23 miles from the junction of 77 and 70 to the left-hand cutoff for Point of Pines. When you see the sign to San Carlos on 70, it's only 6 more miles to Point of Pines road (a road sign gives you plenty of warning). The road off the highway is marked on maps as Indian Route 8 and the one up the mountain as Indian Route 1000, but the designations do not appear on any signs. Still, it's impossible to get lost if you stay on the paved road until you see a small sign, 51 miles northeast of 70, telling you to turn left on the unpaved route to the lake.

The paved road climbs gradually through a

8 miles northeast of the scenic viewpoint. Two miles down the dirt road, there's a cutoff for Dry Lake, which is not dry at all. However, that road is very rough in places. Avoid it and stay on the main dirt road for another mile. That will take you right to the edge of Point of Pines Lake. You can picnic or fish at the lake (you'll need a separate fishing permit), or continue beyond the day-use area to the campground. If you're there in early fall, you'll hear the elk on nippy 40-degree nights announcing their biological instinct to mate, an annual ritual throughout the pine and spruce forests of central and northern Arizona. Judging from the sign at the lake, you may also see bears. I didn't encounter any, and that was fine with me. All Travel Lips WARNING: Back road travel can be hazardous if you are not prepared for the unexpected. Whether traveling in the desert or in the high country, be aware of weather and road conditions, and make sure you and your vehicle are in top shape. Carry plenty of water. Don't travel alone, and let someone at home know where you're going and when you plan to return. Odometer readings in the story may vary by vehicle.

TRAVEL ADVISORY: Permits from the San Carlos Apache Tribe are required for recreation and fishing on the reservation. ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: San Carlos Apache Tribe Recreation and Wildlife, (928) 475-2343.

broad grassy area called Antelope Flat and leads eventually through 6,646-foot-high Barlow Pass. This area is well known as an archaeological trove once inhabited by Mogollon, Hohokam, Puebloan and Salado Indians before the Apaches arrived sometime after 1450. You can get a glimpse of how the ancient peoples lived. As you head up the mountain, stop at the second scenic view pullout on the right. Walk up the road about 50 feet and look to the left to see a very small cliff dwelling built into the side of the rocks. The unpaved road to Point of Pines is

experience.

arizona PHOTOGRAPH THE COLORFUL, CONVOLUTED CORRIDORS OF ARIZONA'S SLOT CANYONS

Join Friends of Arizona Highways for a photography workshop in the dramatic slot canyons of northern Arizona where flash floods have created intriguing sandstone sculptures. Carved into the Colorado Plateau near Page, the narrow canyons are illuminated by delicate shafts of light. This is one of Friends' most popular workshops, so register soon. Former Arizona Highways Photography Editor J. Peter Mortimer will lead the September 23-27 session. Current Photography Editor Richard Maack will conduct the October 23-27 class. For more information or a free workshop brochure, contact Friends of Arizona Highways at (602) 712-2004, toll-free at (888) 790-7042 or visit its Web site at www.friendsofazhighways.com.

OTHER PHOTOGRAPHY WORKSHOPS

November 1-5 "Fall in the Sky Islands," a trip to the Huachuca and Chiricahua mountains with Arizona Highways Director of Photography Peter Ensenberger

November 4-12 "Copper Canyon" with Jack Dykinga

November 6-9 and November 10-13 "Zion National Park" with David Muench November 9-12 "Flora and Fauna of San Diego" with Jim Steinberg and J. Peter Mortimer

MUSIC WITH A VIEW

September 5-20; Grand Canyon In the early 1980s, music aficionados Robert Bonfiglio and Clare Hoffman hiked through the Grand Canyon and decided that seeing the stunning spectacle should be accompanied by the strains of a symphony. One of the park rangers agreed, and the wandering musicians performed an impromptu concert. Bonfiglio and Hoffman started the Grand Canyon Music Festival in 1984. The festival today features nearly a dozen concerts at the Shrine of Ages amphitheater on the South Rim. Call ahead for a complete schedule of performances. Information: (928) 638-9215 or (800) 997-8285, www.grandcanyonmusicfest.org.

WORKING ON THE RAILROAD

September 19-21; Williams The railroad arrived at this mountain settlement in 1882 and opened up the cattle and lumber trades. Tracks also led the 45 miles from the remote town to the Anita Mine at the southern edge of the Grand Canyon. After the mine played out, the Santa Fe Railroad used the tracks to haul tourists to the South Rim, earning Williams the title "Gateway to the Grand Canyon." Learn all about the role of the railroad in northern Arizona's history at the 3rd Annual Railroad Days. Events include train rides, railway exhibits, railway-related arts and crafts and live entertainment. Information: (928) 635-1418 or (800) 863-0546.

SEASONAL SHIFT

September 23; Flagstaff Because the Earth tilts back and forth on its axis as it rotates around the sun, there are only two times each year when the equator lines up with the elliptical orbit-events heralding the seasonal shifts. Each year in September, the sun rises and sets over the Earth's equator, which makes for an equal time division of day and night. This celestial event marks the first day of fall and the coming of the long winter nights in the northern hemisphere. Learn more about the seasons and the lore of the Autumnal Equinox at Lowell Observatory before taking a tour of this historical landmark. Information: (928) 774-2096.

ARTISTIC EXPRESSION

September 27-28; Sedona The Hopi Indians, dwelling on their ancestral mesas in northeastern Arizona, are renowned for their colorful kachina dolls. Hopis are also master silversmiths, potters and weavers. Women on Second and Third mesas still weave baskets from natural d desert fibers, which traditionally held ceremonial ground corn and corn pollen during sacred Hopi ceremonies. Experience the diversity of Hopi artwork at the 3rd Annual Hopi Artists Gathering. Featured activities at Tlaquepaque, Sedona's arts and crafts village, include exhibits, artist demonstrations, an ethnic fashion show and lectures on Hopi history and traditions. Information: (928) 282-4838.

Other Events

Gary Ladd Photo Exhibit; June 20-September 28; Grand Canyon South Rim Village Historic District; (928) 638-2771. At Kolb Studio, images from Grand Canyon: Time Below the Rim, published by Arizona Highways Books, and other work by Gary Ladd.

"A View from the Mountains" Photo Exhibit; June 28October 5; Wickenburg; (928) 684-2272. Michael Collier's photography from The Mountains Know Arizona: Images of the Land and Stories of Its People, published by Arizona Highways Books.

Santa Cruz County Fair; September 11-14; Sonoita; (520) 455-5553. Carnival, 4-H livestock shows, crafts.

Mariachi 2003 Festival; September 13; Chandler; (480) 782-2683. Mariachi groups and folklorico dance.

Gila Valley Cowboy Poetry and Music Gathering; September 19-21; Safford; (888) 837-1841. Cowboy poets, storytellers and singers.

Verde River Days; September 27; Cottonwood; (928) 634-7593. Canoe rides, fishing clinic and nature walks at Dead Horse Ranch State Park.

Andy Devine Days Parade; September 27; Kingman; (928) 753-6106. Parade honoring actor Andy Devine.