SUMMER HIKING GUIDE 2014

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Every June, we single out some of the state's best summer hikes. This month is no exception; however, we've added another dimension in 2014. Instead of just telling you where to hike, we also tell you about some of the best campgrounds within a stone's throw of the trailheads. Think of it as "s'more" information.

Featured in the June 2014 Issue of Arizona Highways

BY: Robert Stieve and Kelly Vaughn Kramer

1. Harding Springs Trail
Oak Creek Canyon
The cover line for this story reads, “Easy Summer Hikes.” This hike is one of two exceptions. Although it’s a quick turnaround — 0.7 miles from one end to the other — the trail climbs more than 800 feet in that short distance. It’s all uphill, but it’s not especially steep. That’s because the route was originally used to move cattle in and out of Oak Creek Canyon. You won’t see any steers today, but you will see a mix of oaks and conifers, and some terrific views at the top. The trail begins at the Cave Springs Campground, which is on the west side of the road. The trail itself is across the street. Be careful when you cross. Almost immediately, you’ll be greeted by two enormous ponderosas. A few minutes later, an opening in the trees gives a glimpse of the canyon. It’s one of several looks along the way. Just beyond that point, the switchbacks begin, and they don’t stop until you reach the top, where a short spur leads to the rim. Enjoy the views. The rest of the hike is easy.

Trail Guide
Length: 1.4 miles round-trip
Difficulty: Moderate
Elevation: 5,398 to 6,208 feet
Trailhead GPS: N 35˚00.019', W 111˚44.228'
Directions: From the roundabout in downtown Sedona, go north on State Route 89A for 11.7 miles to the trailhead.
Vehicle Requirements: None
Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash)
Horses Allowed: Yes
USGS Map: Mountainaire
Information: Red Rock Ranger District, 928-203-2900 or www.fs.usda.gov/coconino

Manzanita Campground
Small and very, very popular, Manzanita Campground is set amid the ash and boxelder trees along Oak Creek. It features 18 sites that fill up early on weekends, thanks to families who love to splash around and fish in the water. It’s so beautiful that you might be tempted to stay awhile, especially after a hike along the nearby Harding Springs Trail or a side trip to Slide Rock State Park.

Camp Notes
Elevation: 4,724 feet
Directions: From the roundabout in downtown Sedona, go north on State Route 89A for about 6.2 miles to the campground on the left.
Information: Red Rock Ranger District, 928-203-2900 or www.fs.usda.gov/coconino
Season: Year-round
Fee: $18 per night
Reservations: Recommended, via www.recreation.gov
 


2. Cliff Spring Trail
North Rim, Grand Canyon
You might think you’re going the wrong way when you start this hike. Not because the trail isn’t well marked, but because it leads away from the Grand Canyon. With most hikes on the North Rim, the payoff is a spectacular panorama of the state’s world-famous natural wonder. With this one, the highlight is a lush side canyon that’s fed by a natural spring. The trail begins with a steep drop into a ravine where ancient peoples built a stone granary. Spruce, firs, oaks and pines shade an already cool stretch downward. About 10 minutes past the granary, a large cliff juts over the trail. As you descend into the small canyon, the vegetation thickens and aspens start to appear. It’s here that the trail changes from rock to sand. You’ll start hearing the sounds of water, too. Not a rush, like Roaring Springs, but a trickle — the drip, drip, drip that makes everything around you green. The water seeps from the cliff — it’s the combination for which the trail is named. The spring marks the turnaround point for the hike, but if you’re willing to do a little bushwhacking, a primitive trail continues through the small canyon to a point where you’ll get views of the big Canyon. It’s a payoff you don’t expect when you start this hike.

Trail Guide
Length: 1 mile round-trip
Difficulty: Easy
Elevation: 7,756 to 7,529 feet
Trailhead GPS: N 36˚07.481', W 111˚56.868'
Directions: From the Grand Canyon Lodge on the North Rim, go north on the park road for 2.8 miles to the turnoff for Cape Final. Turn right and continue 5.3 miles to where the road splits. Stay right and continue toward Cape Final for 13.7 miles to the trailhead on the left.
Vehicle Requirements: None
Dogs Allowed: No
Horses Allowed: No
USGS Maps: Walhalla Plateau, Cape Royal
Information: Grand Canyon National Park, 928-638-7888 or www.nps.gov/grca

North Rim Campground
You might consider the Grand Canyon’s North Rim remote. Indeed, getting there requires some serious travel time. But most people would tell you that it’s well worth the endeavor, and the North Rim Campground is part of the reason why. Located near the Grand Canyon Lodge, and within 22 miles of the Cliff Spring Trail, North Rim Campground — though remote — features plenty of amenities, including a general store, coin-operated laundry machines and flush toilets, the crème de la crème of campground amenities. Plus, it’s at the Grand Canyon, so you can imagine the photo ops that go hand in hand with a stay at one of its sites.

Camp Notes
Elevation: 8,200 feet
Directions: North Rim Campground is located on the North Rim of Grand Canyon National Park.
Information: Grand Canyon National Park, 928-638-7888 or www.nps.gov/grca
Season: Mid-May through mid-October (peak), mid-October through November (walk-in)
Fee: $18-$25 per night
Reservations: Required for peak season, via www.recreation.gov
 


3. Slate Mountain Trail
Flagstaff
It’s hard to stand out in Flagstaff, where mountains named Humphreys, Agassiz and Kendrick dominate the horizon. Most of the others go mostly unnoticed, including Slate Mountain, which sits in the morning shadow of Kendrick Peak. Despite its lack of name recognition, Slate Mountain makes a great summer hike. It’s pretty easy, it’s easy to get to and it’s never crowded like the popular trails to the east. The hike begins with a gradual climb through dwarf mistletoes, alligator junipers and a lot of wild-flowers. After about 10 minutes, you’ll get your first glimpse of the San Francisco Peaks. It won’t be the last. A few steps later, Kendrick shows up, along with the hike’s first ponderosas. The trees are scattered, but after another 10 minutes and a couple of long switchbacks, the trail moves into the forest. As you climb, the gators and ponderosas get bigger. As you get even higher, Douglas firs enter the picture. They’re impressive, and so are the views, which change repeatedly as the trail winds around the mountain — like lines on a barber pole. Toward the top, you’ll see Red Mountain and a series of massive wind turbines. The best views, however, are at the very top. From the summit you can see the Grand Canyon to the north, and Humphreys, Agassiz and Kendrick to the east. As you might expect, those three peaks dominate the horizon.

Trail Guide
Length: 4.8 miles round-trip
Difficulty: Moderate
Elevation: 7,361 to 8,187 feet
Trailhead GPS: N 35˚29.146', W 111˚50.162'
Directions: From Flagstaff, go northwest on U.S. Route 180 for 26.3 miles to Forest Road 191. Turn left onto FR 191 and continue 1.9 miles to the trailhead.
Vehicle Requirements: A high-clearance vehicle is recommended.
Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash)
Horses Allowed: Yes
USGS Map: Kendrick Peak
Information: Flagstaff Ranger District, 928-526-0866 or www.fs.usda.gov/coconino

Camp Notes: Primitive Camping
Although there are no established campgrounds near Slate Mountain, the Coconino National Forest — like most national forests — allows primitive, or dispersed, camping. Essentially, you can pitch a tent wherever you’d like, but there are a few guidelines you should follow. Among them are a 14-day stay limit, the restriction of camping and campfires in the forest within city limits, and the prohibition of camping within a quarter-mile of a watering hole or within a mile of a designated campground. More guidelines can be found at www.fs.usda.gov/coconino.

 

NATIONAL TRAILS DAY
On June 7, 2014, the American Hiking Society will celebrate its 22nd annual National Trails Day. It’s one more reason to get outside and experience the beauty of Arizona. To learn more about what’s happening in your neck of the woods, visit www.americanhiking.org.

 

4. Horse Crossing Trail
Mogollon Rim
This is an easy trail, but getting to it is anything but. It’s remote, and that’s part of the challenge, but the real obstacle is the rough road that leads to the trailhead. There’s one stretch in particular, about a quarter-mile from the end, that will really test your mettle. At the very least, you’ll need a high-clearance vehicle. If you have four-wheel-drive, even better. Once you’ve run the gantlet, you can focus on what’s ahead: East Clear Creek. It’s the highlight of the hike, which begins with an immediate descent down a rocky trail surrounded by ponderosa pines and Gambel oaks. To the left, you’ll get a glimpse of the valley that cradles the creek. After a few minor switchbacks, the trail levels off a little and arrives at a meadow of sorts. If you start early enough in the day, the valley ahead will be shrouded in fog, and you might even see elk eating the lush grasses that grow along the trail. Once the downhill begins again, the trail passes the remains of an old cabin. Just beyond the ruins, you’ll arrive at the creek, which is crystal clear with a gravel bar and thick stands of ferns along the shore. The water eventually drains into the Little Colorado River, but the hike ends at the creek. Enjoy its riparian nature and the solitude you’ll surely be experiencing. They’re nice rewards for having run the gantlet to get there.

Trail Guide
Length: 3 miles round-trip
Difficulty: Easy
Elevation: 6,968 to 6,380 feet
Trailhead GPS: N 34˚35.197', W 111˚08.355'
Directions: From Payson, go north on State Route 87 for 45.4 miles to Forest Road 95. Turn right onto FR 95 and continue 3.8 miles to Forest Road 513B. Turn left onto FR 513B and continue 2 miles to the trailhead.
Vehicle Requirements: A high-clearance vehicle is required; four-wheel-drive is recommended.
Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash)
Horses Allowed: Yes
USGS Map: Blue Ridge Reservoir
Information: Mogollon Rim Ranger District, 928-477-2255 or www.fs.usda.gov/coconino

Blue Ridge Campground
You’ll sleep on a car at Blue Ridge Campground. No, not in your car — on a car. Smashed recycled cars constitute the renovated sites at Blue Ridge. That’s just one of the interesting facts about this destination, which is located 5 miles north of Blue Ridge Reservoir and within a 7-mile drive of the Horse Crossing Trail. Also of note: The reservoir contains plenty of fish, which makes Blue Ridge a great place to camp for hikers who also enjoy casting a line from time to time.

Camp Notes
Elevation: 6,929 feet
Directions: From Pine, go north on State Route 87 for approximately 30 miles to Forest Road 138. Turn right onto FR 138 and continue  1 mile to the campground.
Information: Mogollon Rim Ranger District, 928-477-2255 or www.fs.usda.gov/coconino
Season: Mid-April through September
Fee: $8 per night
Reservations: No
 


5. Buck Ridge Point Trail
Kaibab National Forest
By the time you get to the end of this trail, you’ll be looking at Utah. And if the sky is clear and your eyes are sharp, you might even see Bryce Canyon National Park. Either way, it’s an impressive view that caps a leisurely walk in the woods. The trail begins where two forest roads meet in the Kaibab National Forest. There’s not an established trailhead, which might make you nervous, but the rangers in the area expect to see a few cars there. So, park to the side of the road and hit the trail, which, by the way, isn’t really a trail. Instead, it’s a primitive forest road that rarely sees anything but hiking boots and mountain bikes. Along the road you’ll see ponderosa pines, mule deer, cattle and maybe a few tents. As you head deeper into the woods, the trail begins a slight ascent, and you’ll start seeing ponderosas singled out as “old growth” and “wildlife” trees. Take a bow and keep on trekking past an old radio tower, which is surrounded by oaks and junipers. Just beyond the tower, the road gets rocky and narrow as it arrives at Buck Ridge Point. You can call it quits at the lookout or continue downhill for about 100 yards to an old copper-mine shaft. It’s interesting, but it’s nothing compared to the views of Utah.

Trail Guide
Length: 5 miles round-trip
Difficulty: Easy
Elevation: 7,764 to 7,667 feet
Trailhead GPS: N 36˚41.940', W 112˚17.260'
Directions: From Jacob Lake, go south on State Route 67 for 0.3 miles to Forest Road 461. Turn right onto FR 461 and continue 4.5 miles to the intersection with Forest Road 264. There’s no established trailhead. Park on the right-hand side of FR 264.
Vehicle Requirements: None
Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash)
Horses Allowed: Yes
USGS Maps: Jacob Lake, Warm Springs Canyon
Information: North Kaibab Ranger District, 928-643-7395 or www.fs.usda.gov/kaibab

Jacob Lake Campground
The Buckskin Apostle settled the area near Fredonia during the 19th century — the Buckskin Apostle being Mormon pioneer Jacob Hamblin, and the area near Fredonia being modern-day Jacob Lake. The lake and campground that pay homage to Hamblin are situated in the same neck of the woods as the Buck Ridge Point Trail, and the 51 sites you’ll find at the campground are spacious and scenic. The campground is also open to small RVs and trailers, but no utility hookups are available.

Camp Notes
Elevation: 7,920 feet
Directions: The campground is located at the intersection of State Route 67 and U.S. Route 89A in Jacob Lake.
Information: North Kaibab Ranger District, 928-643-7395 or www.fs.usda.gov/kaibab
Season: Mid-May through October
Fee: $18 per night
Reservations: Recommended, via www.recreation.gov
 


6. Bear Canyon Lake Trail
Mogollon Rim
If this were a trail in Minnesota, it would be like a lot of other trails in Minnesota. The Land of 10,000 Lakes is awash with narrow trails that wind around beautiful bodies of water. In Arizona, our lakes are fewer and farther between, but they’re just as beautiful as the lakes in Minnesota. Bear Canyon Lake is a good example. In fact, when you look at the photo to the right, you might think it was made in the Midwest. It wasn’t. Bear Canyon Lake is on the Mogollon Rim, and the trail of the same name is one of the best summer hikes around. From the trailhead, the well-worn path immediately switches down to the shoreline. Ponderosa pines and Douglas firs shade the way, which is dotted with anglers. The lake, which comprises 60 surface acres and has a maximum depth of 50 feet, is stocked with rainbow trout. About 20 minutes in, the trail arrives at a turning point. You’ll know you’re there when you see the profusion of cattails. After making a 90-degree turn to the left and crossing a marsh, the trail climbs back into the woods, where aspens add another dimension. To your left you’ll see a peninsula and probably a few fishermen, and up ahead you’ll see a concrete bench. It’s an unlikely amenity in the middle of the woods, but it makes a great place to sit and enjoy the views. From there, the trail leads away
from the lake and up to another trailhead at the south end of the lake. The trailhead is nondescript, but compared to Bear Canyon Lake, everything is. Remember, this isn’t Minnesota.

Trail Guide
Length: 3.2 miles round-trip
Difficulty: Easy
Elevation: 7,658 to 7,728 feet
Trailhead GPS: N 34˚24.070', W 111˚00.316'
Directions: From Payson, go east on State Route 260 for 29.2 miles to Forest Road 300. Turn left onto FR 300 and continue 12.2 miles to Forest Road 89. Turn right onto FR 89 and continue 2 miles to Forest Road 89A. Veer right onto FR 89A and continue 0.7 miles to the trailhead.
Vehicle Requirements: None
Dogs Allowed: Yes (on a leash)
Horses Allowed: Yes
USGS Maps: Knoll Lake, Porcupine Ridge
Information: Black Mesa Ranger District, 928-535-7300 or www.fs.usda.gov/apache-sitgreaves

Kehl Springs Campground
Everything around this rustic, eight-site campground is emerald-colored and clean. It’s like Oz, only without the Lollipop Guild and the poppy fields. You will, however, find plenty of dandelions during the summer. But the best part about Kehl Springs isn’t its flora. Rather, it’s its proximity to several hiking trails on the Mogollon Rim, among them the nearby Bear Canyon Lake Trail, the turnoff for which is just 24 miles east on Forest Road 300.

Camp Notes
Elevation: 7,441 feet
Directions: From Pine, go north on State Route 87 for 13.6 miles to its junction with Forest Road 300, also
known as the Rim Road. Turn right onto FR 300 and continue 6.7 miles to the campground.
Information: Mogollon Rim Ranger District, 928-477-2255 or www.fs.usda.gov/coconino
Season: Year-round, weather permitting
Fee: None
Reservations: No
 


7. Cape Final Trail
North Rim, Grand Canyon
Not a lot of people make it to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. And even fewer head out to the Walhalla Plateau, where this trail is located. If you’re among the minority who’ve been up north, but haven’t hiked to Cape Final, put this trail on your list. It’s a wonderful hike that begins in a ponderosa forest that’s carpeted with wildflowers in the summer. Almost immediately, you’ll get a hint of the Canyon to the right, but it’s just a tease. You can’t see anything. After a slight downhill, the trail levels off. Look for quaking aspens and Kaibab squirrels. About a half-hour in, the trail crests a ridge where a short spur leads to the rim. If you need a fix of natural wonder, make the side trip, backtrack and then continue north. The trail parallels the rim, but not close enough to see into the Canyon. Along with the ponderosas and aspens, a few oaks start showing up. Beyond the hardwoods, the trail dips into a ravine that signals the final approach to Cape Final. On the other side of the ravine, you’ll scramble over a pile of rocks and arrive at the cape — a USGS marker marks the spot. The views are as good as any in the Canyon, and because you’ll be standing on the Walhalla Plateau, there’s a good chance you’ll be standing alone. Enjoy the view.

Trail Guide
Length: 4 miles round-trip
Difficulty: Easy
Elevation: 7,890 to 7,919 feet
Trailhead GPS: N 36˚08.743', W 111˚56.129'
Directions: From the Grand Canyon Lodge on the North Rim, go north on the park road for 2.8 miles to the turnoff for Cape Final. Turn right and continue 5.3 miles to where the road splits. Stay right and continue toward Cape Final for 11.8 miles to the trailhead on the left.
Vehicle Requirements: None
Dogs Allowed: No
Horses Allowed: No
USGS Map: Walhalla Plateau
Information: Grand Canyon National Park, 928-638-7888 or www.nps.gov/grca

DeMotte Campground
North of the North Rim and about 45 minutes from the Cape Final Trail, DeMotte Campground, named for mathematics professor and John Wesley Powell compadre Harvey C. DeMotte, features 38 sites and plenty of pine trees. But some of the biggest draws to this campground are its surrounding meadows and the wildlife that inhabits them. In fact, it wouldn’t be surprising to catch a glimpse of a mule deer or watch chipmunks and squirrels scamper around and up the trees.

Camp Notes
Elevation: 8,760 feet
Directions: From the North Rim entrance to Grand Canyon National Park, go north on State Route 67 for 5.3
miles to the campground.
Information: North Kaibab Ranger District, 928-643-7395 or www.fs.usda.gov/kaibab
Season: Mid-May through October
Fee: $18 per night
Reservations: Recommended, via www.recreation.gov
 


The 10 Commandments of Hiking

1. Never hike alone.
2. Tell someone where you’re hiking, the route you’ll be taking and when you’ll be home.
3. Carry identification (driver’s license, etc.) and the name and telephone number of whom to call in case of emergency.
4. Before you leave home, check the forecast, and pay attention to the weather while you’re on the trail.
5. Study the maps before you go, and always carry a compass, not just a GPS device.
6. On the trail, know where you’re going and where you are in relation to the map you’re carrying.
7. Take plenty of food, and carry more water than you think you’ll need.
8. There’s no such thing as too much sunscreen.
9. Don’t overestimate your abilities.
10. Adhere to the Leave No Trace principles (see Hike of the Month ).
 


BUFFALO PARK

This month’s cover photo was made at Flagstaff’s Buffalo Park, which sits atop McMillan Mesa in the shadow of the San Francisco Peaks. The main attraction of the park is an easy 2-mile loop that circles a grassy meadow. The trail itself is wide and wheelchair accessible. Before it became a city park, the area was a private wildlife park. Thus the name.

Buffalo Park is located at 2400 N. Gemini Road in Flagstaff. For more information, call 800-379-0065 or visit www.flagstaffarizona.org.