Chinle

Founded: 1882 (first trading post established)
County: Apache
Population: 4,573
Elevation: 5,506 feet
High School Mascot: Wildcats

Chinle (Ch’ínílį in Diné) is best known as the gateway to Canyon de Chelly National Monument, which was established in 1931. But the history of the community runs much deeper, and it’s one that’s both beautiful and tragic. The Navajo people and their ancestors — including the Archaic people, Basketmakers and Ancestral Puebloans — have inhabited the region for more than 5,000 years, working crops and thriving in the shadows of cottonwood, willow and juniper trees. When Spanish soldiers arrived in the early 19th century, they brought violence with them. In 1805, Lieutenant Antonio Narbona led an expedition into Canyon de Chelly that resulted in the murder of more than 100 Navajos at Massacre Cave.

Decades later, after the Mexican-American War, the relationship between the Navajo people and the United States government deteriorated. Kit Carson and his soldiers raided Canyon de Chelly, slashing crops, slaughtering livestock and driving the Navajo people out of the canyon as part of what now is known as the Long Walk to captivity at Fort Sumner, New Mexico. An 1868 treaty enabled the Navajos to return to their ancestral homelands, and trading posts began to emerge. One of those, Thunderbird, was built in 1896, and today, it serves as a lodge and restaurant, catering to the 400,000 people who visit Canyon de Chelly each year.
 

For the people who live in Chinle, though, the canyon is more than a stop during a road trip. Shaun Martin is Diné and the principal of Chinle Junior High School. He’s also the founder of the Canyon de Chelly Ultra, a 55-kilometer ultramarathon through the canyon.

“Canyon de Chelly is considered a sacred place to all Navajo people,” Martin says. “There are many significances of the canyon in our creation story and how we came about in this world, and why we have some of the things we have in our culture, like weaving. Navajo rugs are a big part of our culture, and Spider Woman is the deity who taught the Navajo people how to weave. We believe Spider Woman herself lived and continues to live as a deity on Spider Rock.”

Martin grew up in a small community south of Lake Powell but moved to Chinle after meeting his wife. (In the Navajo tradition, men move to live with the wife’s family; that wasn’t necessarily the couple’s intention, but Martin calls it “fortuitous” that it worked out that way.) They both graduated with degrees in education from Northern Arizona University, and Chinle had teaching positions for both of them, as well as an opening to coach cross country and track and field — sports in which Martin was an athlete at NAU.

It was an ideal fit: The Chinle Unified School District is well known for its athletic programs, including basketball. In 2019, Netflix even released a six-part documentary series about the 2017–18 Chinle High School Wildcats as they pursued a 3A basketball state title.

“Chinle’s home,” Martin says. “It’s where my wife’s family is and has been. Her ancestral roots and traditional Navajo homesite and dwellings are here, near Spider Rock, which is a very significant cultural place to all Navajo people, but especially to us. We had a traditional Navajo wedding in our hogan up there at the family’s homesite.”
 

 

WHERE TO STAY

Thunderbird Lodge
As the only hotel at Canyon de Chelly, the historic Thunderbird Lodge serves as lodging, restaurant, tour operator and trading post. Its 74 rooms offer king or queen beds, satellite television and other standard amenities. Some rooms are even pet friendly.
Navajo Route 7, Chinle, 928-674-5842, thunderbirdlodge.com
 

WHERE TO EAT

Thunderbird Lodge
The cafeteria-style restaurant at Thunderbird Lodge features a menu stocked with tradition, including Navajo tacos, chili beans, fry bread and a stew of the day. Breakfast, served daily until 10:30 a.m., means blue corn pancakes and plenty of eggs, sausage and biscuits.
Navajo Route 7, Chinle, 928-674-5842, thunderbirdlodge.com
 

ATTRACTIONS

Canyon de Chelly National Monument
The Navajo Nation and National Park Service work in tandem to manage this national monument, which was established in 1931. Visitors can absorb the views from lookouts on the north and south rims of the canyon for free; there’s also no fee for the White House Trail, a 2.5-mile round-trip journey that descends 600 feet into Canyon de Chelly. However, exploring the ancient dwellings, petroglyphs and more at the bottom of the canyon requires a tour with an experienced Navajo guide, many of whom live in Canyon de Chelly.
928-674-5500, nps.gov/cach

Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Site
This historic destination, less than 40 miles south of Chinle, is the oldest continually operating trading post in the American Southwest. It supports Navajo artists who have mastered weaving, jewelry-making, beading and other traditional crafts. It’s open daily from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.
U.S. Route 191, Ganado, 928-755-3475, nps.gov/hutr