HERE LIE THE BODIES

WELCOME to Tombstone and Boothill Graveyard. This sign stands boldly at the western entrance of this once rip-roarin' boom town of Arizona's early mining days.

"Strange welcome," muses the uninformed. But stranger are the facts involved in the sudden passing of many buried there.

Many of Tombstone's less desirable citizens in those days seemed to care little how or when they died. Others, who had had any kind of Christian "bringing up" in their youth, had an unpleasant feeling concerning the result of appearing before their Maker with their boots on. Should one suddenly become the victim of a tragic melee and his presence on earth seemed a matter of fleeting seconds, he or his friends, if he had any, would attempt to remove his boots before he passed out. The fact that many, "unfortunately," were buried there with their boots on, caused the name "Boothill" to be gradually attached to the graveyard. There are 259 graves in this world's largest Boothill.

Undoubtedly the most notorious episode in Tombstone's early history occurred in the tragic Earp-Clanton affray in 1881. The Earps, some of whom were appointed peace officers, were very bitter toward the cowboys since their friend, Doc Holliday, had been accused of taking part in a robbery and killing. At every opportunity thereafter, the Earps would chide and abuse certain of the cowboys until one day the bitter feelings climaxed with a shooting drama; the tenseness and swiftness of which lends question to any version. The following was based generally on court testimony.

Sheriff Behan, informed there was to be trouble, insisted upon disarming everybody in town and proceeded to do so. Ike and Billy Clanton, Tom and Frank McLowery with Billy Claibourn were down near the O. K. corral. Behan demanded Frank McLowery's gun. McLowery refused, saying he intended having no trouble. Ike Clanton was searched and was found unarmed as was Tom McLowery. Claibourn denied being a party to any trouble. Seeing the Earps, Wyatt, Virgil and Morgan, with Doc Holliday, coming down the sidewalk toward the corral, the sheriff told the boys to wait there; he would stop them. "I am sheriff and won't allow any trouble!"

He met them and asked them to stop. They brushed past, paying no attention to his command and came up within a few feet of the Clantons and stopped. Wyatt Earp shouted, "You s-of-a !" "You have been looking for a fight and now you can have it!"

Virgil Earp, town marshal, commanded, "Throw up your hands!" As the boys obeyed, the Earps started shooting. As eighteen-year-old Billy Clanton cried out, "Don't shoot me, I don't want to fight!" he was felled with a bullet. Tom McLowery threw his coat open and shouted, "I have nothing-I am not armed!"

Doc Holliday pulled out a shotgun he was concealing under his overcoat and fired at Tom McLowery, tearing him wide open, death coming immediately. Morgan Earp shot Billy Clanton. Clanton, groping on the ground, after being shot the second time, drew his pistol and fired. Wyatt Earp shot Frank McLowery in the belly. McLowery staggered out into the street. He attempted to pull his pistol. Firing ceased. Billy Clanton cried out, "They have murdered me!" He rolled over dead. He was shot through

MARCH, 1938 ARIZONA HIGHWAYS 19 the arm, wrist, leg and stomach, and there was a gaping hole in his chest.

Contrasts are interesting. The following version of the fight carries all of the blood and thunder of the early flicker days and is accepted and presented in effect by several noted writers.

The Clantons, Billy and Ike, Billy Claibourn and Tom and Frank McLowery loaded up with artillery and ammunition and sent word to the Earps they were waiting to do battle.

The Earps, joined by Doc Holliday, set out to take the Clanton gang into custody. As they walked up Virgil Earp commanded, "Hands up-you are under arrest!" the Clantons reached for their six-shooters and the fight was on.

Guns began to spit fire from all directions. A bullet from Wyatt Earp's gun tore through Frank McLowery's stomach. He let out a yell and made for the street, holding his arm over his stomach. At the same time, Morgan Earp shot Billy Clanton in the breast. Tom McLowery, shooting from behind his horse, fired a shot that bored a hole through Morgan Earp's shoulder.

The Clantons were shooting fast as was Virgil Earp. The Clantons made a break for the street, Billy falling near where Frank McLowery lay. Ike Clanton ran into the building next to the corral. Holliday pumped a charge of buckshot into Tom McLowery, lifting him off his feet, and he crashed lifeless to the ground.

Frank McLowery and Billy Clanton were sitting in the middle of the street, both badly torn and bloody. They were emptying their guns like lightning. One slug hit Virgil Earp in the leg. Ike sent a bullet tearing into Billy Clanton's chest, toppling him on his back. Holding his gun with both hands, Billy fired aimlessly, crying out, "Damn you I've got to kill one of you before I die!" His hands dropped, the gun rolling to the street. His body quivered. He was finished.

Frank McLowery started to his feet and staggered across the street. He was literally "full" of bullets. Ike Clanton began shooting at Morgan Earp, through a window from behind. As Morgan wheeled around and fell on his side he caught sight of Holliday and McLowery aiming their guns at each other. With a quick drop, Morgan had fired, the bullet piercing his skull. McLowery had fired, the bullet lodging in Holliday's hip. McLowery, weak, exhausted, sprawled over dead.

Thus the fight ended. The bloody affray had lasted but a few dramatic seconds, taking as toll, the lives of the McLowerys and Billy Clanton and leaving Virgil and Morgan Earp badly torn and wounded.

In old Boothill today stands a marker thus inscribed; "Tom McLowery, Frank McLowery, Billie Clanton: Murdered on the streets of Tombstone."

Of early western gun-play, none exceed in outright boldness the so-called Bisbee Massacre in 1883, when a number of rustlers "took the town" and in pay for their wanton slaughter, were hanged simultaneously back of the old court-house in Tombstone. One of their members preceding them was "strung up" to a telegraph pole by an infuriated mob.

Goldwater and Castaneda's store was the center of pre-Christmas activity. About seven-thirty in the evening, three members of a gang entered. Quick as a flash they pulled their guns and commanded, "Hands up! Line up against the walls there!" The command was quickly obeyed and the outlaws proceeded to loot the safe, cash registers, and showcases. They sacked everything of value.

Outside, the others kept the street cleared by shooting at everyone in sight. John Tapiner, a bit too slow in getting to cover, was shot dead in the doorway of a saloon. Tom Smith, a deputy, and James Kriegbaum ran out and exchanged shots with them. Smith, hit twice, died instantly. Kriegbaum, more fortunate, wounded one of the outlaws. J. A. Nolly was hit and lay crumpled on the side-walk, dying later. A restaurant keeper, Mrs. Roberts, was shot through the body and killed.

The looters joined their companions in the street and rode away into the night, "shooting up" the lower town as they escaped.

A posse quickly formed under the leadership of John Heath. Heath could "read a trail in the dark." He vigorously condemned the outrage. "Track 'em down-hang 'em to the nearest tree! Let's go get 'em," as they started in hot pursuit. Time and again he threw the posse off the trail. Though they disagreed, they always wound up following his leadership. Given up as futile after an all-night search, they returned through the Chiricahuas toward Bisbee. On the way back they spotted the horses. They had been deliberately driven off a steep cliff to their deaths. Fresh mounts had been stolen from a nearby ranch.

Arriving at Bisbee, Heath continued to curse the deed. "If I'd have run on to 'em, I'd shot 'em down like dogs!" A bystander, Frank Buckles, measured Heath with cold eyes. He stared at him and jabbed his finger toward him. "Those five fellers stopped at my ranch day

KINO and Other Missionaries

(Continued from Page 11) sionaries kept busy. Finally, the Spanish frontier military authorities often found it cheaper and easier to rely upon a padre's moral suasion than to quell the troublesome natives by force. And always, a missionary, being better educated than most Spanish soldiers, could be relied upon to give fairly accurate and full accounts of the new lands and people, which he encountered during his entradas or explorations-journeys much less expensive and troublesome than official expeditions. A missionary then, consciously or unconsciously, was often a servant of His Majesty, the king of Spain, as much as he was the humble worker for the Church. And he was often fully as valuable to the king as a whole army of soldiers equipped and drilled in the European fashion. That is why he is so often found historically upon this or that vital frontier of Spanish settlement, pacifying suspicious Indians and, where possible, establishing himself and his fellow-workers permanently in chapels and mission buildings,

ARIZONA HIGHWAYS

whence they could serve the Indian not only as spiritual guide but as teacher in more practical matters such as agriculture and the simpler trades. The fact that the Spanish monarchs, by the middle of the seventeenth century, were content to protect their New World frontiers by such mild agents, indicates that the great, splendid days of the conquistadors were past, and that Spain needed her manhood now to protect her against European rivals elsewhere in the Americas, as for example against the French in the Mississippi valley or against the English in Georgia.

Meanwhile, there had been a slow but steady movement of sturdy Spanish settlement northward in Mexico. In 1610, a strong Spanish fort was built on the banks of the Rio del Fuerte, near the present boundary between the Mexican states of Sinaloa and Sonora. This structure excited the respect of the bold Yaqui peoples just to the northwest, and made the Mayos also more polite toward Spanish rule so that it was possible in 1613 for Jesuit missionaries to establish themselves in the Mayo valley. Four years later they appeared among the Yaquis, a people who had rather uncertain tempers and who were soon to launch that famous 300-year war of theirs against

SAN XAVIER MARCH, 1938

the white man. Following close upon this soldier-missionary frontier came the cattleman, and, long before 1660, his herds were grazing in the Yaqui and Mayo valleys, unmolested as a rule so long as he was wise enough to let the hungry natives run off a small but definite percentage of his stock every season. Some of the cattlemen even pressed on beyond, into the Sonora valley and before long there were miners prospecting through these hills and making such strikes of gold and silver as that at the famous old southern Sonora hill city of Alamos. These peaceful settlers gained protection both from Spanish forts and from Spanish missionaries, but the latter were often their only spiritual guides and served as priests for whites as well as reds. One of the old Jesuit historians informs us that in 1644 Sinaloa and southern Sonora had thirty-five mission establishments, each functioning for from one to four Indian villages. So says Padre Andres Perez de Ribas, and, since he was one of the missionaries in that field himself, he should be partly qualified to know his facts, though we can indulge in a little skepticism when he also tells us that by the end of that same year there had been 300,000 baptisms in the region rather more people than the country could have supported in those days! Within the next thirty years after 1644, missions, ranchos, mining camps and Spanish military presidios were spreading still farther north. At Arizpe on the upper Sonora and at Cucurpe on the San Miguel River, there were missions established before 1660, missions which were very close to the southern borders of Pimeria. In addition, about that date or a trifle later, there were a number of small reales or mining camps and settlements of rancheros in the upper Sonora and Yaqui valleys: Opodepe, Bacanuche, San Juan, Nacozari and Oposura. These establishments were defended by a few military posts, the northernmost of which was Santa Rosa de Corodegachi, at what is now known as the town of Fronteras.

It was late in the seventeenth century when there arrived on this white man's thinly-populated frontier, one of its greatest pioneers, Padre Eusebio Francisco Kino. His name will always be associated with the advance of Spanish settlement and influence into Sonora and Arizona, not merely because of the many missions that he founded, but because of his untiring explorations of the country. He was, it seems, an Italian by birth, but since his original name is sometimes given as Kuhn rather than Chini or Quini, and, since he was born in the extreme north of Italy near what is now the border of the Austrian Tyrol country, there is more than a possibility that his ancestry may have been in part German. However that may be, his birth in the Alps took place probably in August of Indians whom he might convert to westward from the upper San Miguel 1645, since he was baptized on August and a fellow-missionary leisurely made Altar, the famous Kino chain, composed In 10, 1645, according to the old church their way northward and, on March 13, of half-developed missionary stations at records of Segno. He was educated near1687, they reached the Indian rancheria San Ignacio, Santa Maria Magdalena by, and later attended the universities of Cosari, some fifteen miles north of (now at the town of Magdalena), San of Freiburg and Ingolstadt in Germany, Cucurpe on the San Miguel River. Here Miguel del Tupo, San Pedro del Tucuwhere he took the first steps toward beKino decided to plant his first mission tama, San Antonio de Oquitoa, San Lorbecoming a member of the company of and the religious ceremonies which he enzo del Saric, San Ambrosio de TucuJesus. He also taught at the University performed that day are often taken as bavia, Santiago de Cocospera, San Laof Ingolstadt, and it was while he was marking the founding of his famous miszaro, La Concepcion de Caborca, Nuteaching there, in 1678, that he was sesion of Nuestra Senora de los Dolores, estra Senora de los Remedios, and San lected as one of a group of Jesuit miswhich was to be his headquarters for alJose de Imuris. Some of these were Missionaries to be sent to the New World, most a quarter-century. only branch missions, or visitas, for many although his personal choice seems to As was customary among the Jesuit years but most were at some time full-fledged missions, and around them were to have been in favor of going to the Orient. missionaries, the headman of the village We need not detail the exciting events of Cosari was employed by Kino in sendto grow up many important towns of the of their voyage from Genoa to Spain, ing word around to the nearby ranchAltar valley in later days.

Their long sojourn in Spain awaiting the erias of his arrival. By mid-May of favorable moment to board the Spanish 1687 he had babtized some thirty confor the first time, apparently, in Janking's vessel American-bound, and the verts and had established a routine of uary of 1691. He was accompanied by dreary voyage to the port of Vera Cruz visits to other villages; San Ignacio de Salvatierra, to whom he wished to show in New Spain, where Kino landed in May Coborica, Remedios, and Imuris, giving the type of Indian encountered in these Of 1681. He spent some six months in pious names to most of them, in accordnew fields of conversion. Some forty Mexico City, where he attained considerance with the modest practice of most miles south of Nogales they were greeted Able renown from his published essay on Spanish-American pioneers. He had his by natives of the Sobaipuri branch of the great Comet of 1680, in which he distroubles during the next few months and the Pima nation. "They came to meet played his knowledge of astronomy and years, not only in counteracting the arus," says Kino, "with some crosses, which mathematics. Late in 1681 he was appointed map-maker and geographer to Indian medicine-men, but in meeting the arguments and intrigues of the jealous they gave us, kneeling with great veneration, and asking us on behalf of all an expedition which the viceroy of New criticisms and suspicions of neighboring their tribe to go to their rancherias also.

Spain had authorized for the colonizaSpanish frontier military officials, who The Padre Visitador (Salvatierra) said tion of the peninsula of Baja California, did not altogether approve of the spiritual to me that those crosses which they car-

Tried were tongues that spoke volumes

By Antillon. Kino was with Atondo's exto the Indians by the missionary fathers. and with great force, and that we could pedition while it prepared for its task Yet by 1694, due to the effort of Kino, not fail to go where by means of them in 1682 and sailed with it for Baja the misionary authorities back in Mexithey called us." So the two padres crossCalifornia in January of 1683. At the co City had become impressed with the ed what is now the United States-Mexico In the Bay of La Paz an effort was made to importance of this frontier mission provboundary line, into present-day Arizona.

to establish a colony, but it failed because ince, and were giving him recognition in They seem on this occasion to have come of Indian hostilities. And yet later in the shape of funds and of assistant paat least as far north as the site of old that same year Atondo attempted a secdres while the Spanish frontier officials, San Cayetano (San Jose) del Tumacaond colony at what was called the port converted themselves to the value of cori mission, where they found that the Of San Bruno, farther north on the east Kino's work in keeping the Indian docile, Indians had prepared temporary shel-ters for them. It was not until August coast of the peninsula. The San Bruno added their influence at the viceregal colony lasted about two years, although court in favor of his requests. Soon a of 1692 that Kino came into the valley Kino was not with it all the time, for chain of missions had been extended of the Santa Cruz River, and this time he much of his business, besides being map-maker, was devoted to the conversion of

the Indians to Christianity, in which task

he traveled over a good deal of central

Baja California and made numerous short

voyages about the Gulf of California, in Atondo's ships. Kino returned to Mex-ico City with Atondo in the early part of

1686, to report the colony's failure and

ask for more funds, for another effort.

But the viceroy had other uses for

money, and the colonization of Baja Cali-fornia,

fornia was not undertaken again for

more than ten years, when Padre Juan

Maria de Salvatierra, Kino's friend, was in charge of the mission therein.

Late in 1686, Kino received from the chief Jesuit authorities in New Spain an assignment to share in the missionItary work among the Indians of northern Sonora. He left Mexico City November 20, 1686, made his way to the city of

Guadalajara and there secured from the

district court of Guadalajara (Audien-

cia) a decree which forbade the enslaving

ARIZONA HIGHWAYS MARCH, 1938

He penetrated farther north, to the ranch-eria of Bac, where he preached to some eight hundred Sobaipuris and other Pi-mas. His words on this occasion are so typical of many a missionary address, that it is perhaps worthwhile to repeat them: "I spoke to them of the Word of God, and on a map of the world showed them the lands, the rivers and the seas over which we fathers had come from afar to bring them the saving knowledge of our holy faith. And I told them also how in ancient times the Spaniards were not Christians; how Santiago (St James the Apostle, and the patron saint of Spain) came to teach them the faith, and how for the first fourteen years he was able to baptize only a few, because of which the holy Apostle was discouraged; but that the most holy Virgin appeared to him and consoled him, telling him that the Spaniards would convert the rest of the people of the world. And I showed them on a map of the world how the Span-iards and the faith had come by sea to Vera Cruz, and had gone in to Puebla and to Mexico, Guadalajara, Sinoloa, and So-nora, and now to Nuestra Senora de los Dolores del Cosari, in the land of the Pimas, where there were already many persons baptized, a house, a church, bells, and images of saints, plentiful supplies, wheat, maize, and many cattle and horses; that they could go and see it all, and even ask at once of their relatives, my ser-vants, who were with me. They listened with pleasure to these and other talks concerning God, heaven, and hell, and told me that they wished to be Christ-ians, and gave me some infants to bap-tize . . ."

In such a fashion did Kino address these earliest citizens of Arizona. It was not until eight years later, April 28, 1700, that he formally began the building of the famous old mission of San Xavier del Bac at this place, now some nine miles south of Tucson. The founding of San Xavier was followed next yearby the establishment of San Cayetano del Tumacacori and a little later by San Gabriel de Guevavi, which seem to have been the most flourishing and important missions of Arizona in his day. Yet these three earliest Jesuit missions of Arizona were only a small part of the work of Kino in mission-founding, for he is known to have begun at least twenty-five other missions, most of them in Sonora. Moreover, we should not forget his work as an explorer of this country. Scarcely a part of Arizona south of the Gila was unvisited by him, save in the extreme eastern portion, where fear of the Apaches prevented many visits by mis-sion padres. He traced the courses of the Santa Cruz and San Pedro, followed the Sonoita down to its sink in western Sonora, explored the volcanic Pinacate ranges, went down the Gila to it mouth, visiting the Cocomaricopa Indians along its valley, crossed the Colorado into Baja California, and marked the famous Ca-mino del Diablo from Sonoita by way of the desert water-tanks to the Gila a little above Yuma, a road traversed in later days by many Spanish settlers bound for California in the later eighteenth century. Besides, he is to be remem-bered for his advertising of this northern borderland and for his introduction of cattle among the Indians of northern So-nora and southern Arizona, an innova-tion which decidedly altered their man-ner of life. Altogether, he was probably the most benevolent of Arizona's pioneers in the days of her Spanish history. His interest in geography had a practical ob-jective, the search for a route around the head of the Gulf of California and southward into Baja California, where he hoped to send cattle for the support of Salvatierra's missions. Although he did not find such a route that was prac-ticable yet he pointed the way for later explorers and proved that Baja Cali-fornia was not an island, as was then currently supposed, but a long narrow peninsula.

Finally, his famous reminiscences of his life and career on this remote rim of Christendom furnish us with an elaborate and detailed picture of early Arizona and Sonora. These reminiscences he compiled into what he called his Favores Celestiales, or Heavenly Favors conferred upon his work by divine approval and assistance. The manuscript lay buried for nearly two centuries in the archives of Mexico, but when found it changed men's whole conception of the mission padres and their ways in this southwestern country.

At Kino's death, March 15, 1711, at Magdelena, he was the most revered man of his day in Sonora. The missions which he had helped to establish were doing more to civilize the Indians of Arizona and Sonora than all the efforts of conquistadors and settlers. And yet, by his influence over the red men and because of the respect shown him by his fellow-whites, he had been able to maintain during his twenty-four years of service a peace which prevailed for some forty years after his death, and which was broken only by Apache raids and, in 1751, by a desperate revolt of the Pimas against Spanish military authority.

ARIZONA HIGHWAYS cordially invites amateur photographers to submit pictures of scenic Arizona. Pictures tell the story best, and ARIZONA HIGHWAYS, whose mission it is to tell the story of Arizona, can best tell the story of Arizona with pictures. We offer as cash prizes to the amateur photographers, who, in the opinion of the judges, submit the best pictures, sums of $15, $10 and $5.

Pictures must be glossy 5x7 or 8x10 inch prints, unmounted, with name and address on back of every print, and with a typewritten caption accompanying each print. Take your camera into Arizona, the scenic wonderland, and bring back pictures we can use to tell the story of this state, whose beauty defies description by mere words.

Send your prints to the editor, ARIZONA HIGHWAYS, Arizona Highway department, Phoenix, Arizona, before April 15. Winning prints will be published in the June issue of this magazine. Arrangements will be made whereby other than the prize winning pictures will be published in other issues of the magazine.

The subject matter for prints submitted must be in Arizona. Employees of the Arizona Highway department. or members of their families will not be eligible to compete. Publication rights for the three prize winning pictures will be the property of this magazine.

MARCH, 1938 ARIZONA HIGHWAYS 23 SHOOTING THE RAPIDS For Science and Thrills

(Continued from Page 5) of geological importance began coming out of the canyon.

No attempt was made to hurry. Innumerable stops were made so the scientists could scramble over the canyon's walls in search of geological material and a great quantity of samples were collected.

By referring to the history of Colorado river voyages, you will find frequent reference to the morale of members sinking to a low ebb, and in some instances frayed nerves broke entirely. This was given special consideration by Dr. Campbell, and an attempt was made to keep the spirits of the party at a high order. That was an important function of the radio, and it worked perfectly. Each evening when the boats were tied up, radio contact was established with Park headquarters. The radio program pepped up the whole party. First, of course, came the weather report, and the stage of the river. In case of flood waters coming down the river, the expedition would have ample time to find safe ground until danger was past due. Then came newspaper headlines, personal messages, telegrams and the like. Only a few years ago a river party would have been completely isolated, but not this one. Cruising down the hard-boiled Colorado, the expedition kept in touch with the mainland at all times, and even received current football scores. On Saturday when important games were played, football was second only to the weather. On those days, great commotion existed in the bowels of the earth that was not the result of "bends," "folds," or mountain-building agencies supposed to be ever foremost in the minds of geologists. Wagers were placed. There was little cash in the group, however, so bets were strictly "on the cuff," and were confined mostly to "beers". A bet of "five beers" was placed on Stanford to win, while a Notre Dame rooter perhaps saw only a "four beers" prospect for his favorite to win. "Beers," in fact, was their standard of value.

A spirit of friendly competition was maintained, even in camp routine-including the drudgery of washing dishes, which was done by teams of two's, selected alphabetically. Each team got much satisfaction in finding fault with the ability of its predecessors. Shooting the rapids held an element of competition too. It was customary for the boatmen to "crawfish" their craft into the rapids -go down stern first-while they rowed violently upstream. That was done to check the speed of the boats and to give greater control in dodging rocks. Whoever happened to ride the stern of the boat frequently took a ducking when the boat hit a "pocket" and shipped water. If the wave struck him at his neck and trickled down to his toes, that scored as "taking one with the grain." If it reversed and went up his pants legs to his neck, that was "one against the grain."

Locating a suitable campsite often was a formidable problem. A sandbar with a good supply of driftwood was ideal. A spot for sleeping was a matter of individual choice. McKee bedded down in the sand. Stark tried the sand the first night, but a wind came up and blew his bed full. After that he always was found sleeping on a rock ledge.

Accustomed to working in more accessible locations the geologists early in their trip gave little thought to where they laid their sampling hammers. It wasn't long until there was a serious dearth of hammers. When a rapids was passed there was no returning for forgotten tools. The shortage became so acute that an enterprising boatman jokingly posted a sign in camp "Geological hammers for sale $250.00 each." The idea was good, but he couldn't produce a hammer for twice that price. So when the boats were loaded, each man saw to it that his hammer was accounted for.

With few exceptions all the rapids were shot in the 280-mile trip. It was not considered advisable to risk the boats in Lava Falls rapids and that was the only portage made. In six of the worst stretches, the boats were "lined," or steered through the rapids with ropes held by members of the crew who waded out in the marrow-chilling water up to their armpits. Life preservers were worn when lining boats and shooting rapids, not only for safety in case a man was sucked into the swirling current, but also for additional warmth. Other than the boats, life preservers were probably the most useful piece of equipment. When not otherwise used, they served as excellent seat cushions during quiet stretches of water, and at night, supplemented blankets.

ARIZONA HIGHWAYS MARCH, 1938

On the twentieth of November, the boats were moored at Diamond Creek just above Lake Mead, the body of water impounded by Boulder Dam. Thus far the trip had been routine work of navigating rapids and collecting geological data. At Diamond Creek, however, much to the surprise of the scientists, a lone boatman came paddling down the river and beached his craft alongside their boats. It was "Buzz" Holmstrum operating a "one-man" expedition. Holmstrum had come alone more than a thousand miles from Greenriver, Wyo. Equipped with a life-preserver and wearing a heavy beard, he was an impressive sight floating down stream. Dr. Campbell radioed "he looked like a man out of the past."

"I did it for adventure," said Holmstrum, when asked the reason for his trip. "I read Kolb brothers' book telling of their two trips. The more I thought about it, the more determined I was to make the trip myself. I was scared all the time, but after I started, I couldn't turn back. I had to keep my self-respect. When I was in quiet stretches of water and had to think, it was lonesome and de-pressing, but when I hit the rapids, I didn't have time to think I was much too busy. I've boated on every bad river in the United States but the Colorado is the worst I ever tackled. I've had enough I wouldn't try it again." Holmstrum adopted the name "Buzz", he explained because his real name might make people thing he was "sissy." Imagine a "sissy" soloing down one of the world's toughest streams. What a man!

When Holmstrum overtook the scien tific party, he was about out of supplies. He had one can of "roast beef hash" and still one bad stretch of water to nego tiate. The scientists offered him supplies, but he refused. "If I get past that bad water, I'll have enough. I'll eat my can of hash as a sort of celebration. If I don't well, I won't need any thing anyway." And he paddled around a bend and was lost to sight. When the scientists passed the rapids, there was the empty hash can and, painted on a rock, "Barnacle Buzz Holmstrum." The solo-boatman had crossed his last hazard.

As the scientists pulled into the placid waters of Lake Mead, they were met by a power launch, and, figuratively, "thumbed" a ride the next seventeen miles, towed by the power boat, to Pierce's Ferry, where they arrived on the twenty-sixth of November.

Both expeditions were successful-one for a thrill, and the other for science. But don't let your enthusiasm get the better of your good judgment and come scurrying out, armed with a canoe and a pair of water wings, to joust with the rugged old stream. It still has plenty of hair on its chest, and your chances of success are less than fifty per cent.

MAPPING Arizona

(Continued from Page 7) The foregoing data was absolutely essential to permit the drafting of base maps to a scale of one inch to the mile, showing thereon all details of the existing transportation system. The data will be further sorted, tabulated and analyzed to provide answers to many questions that have heretofore been necessarily assumed or approximated.

The actual drafting of the base maps has been practically completed, and all that now remains to be done is in the nature of final field checking and corrections to bring them up to date as of January 1, 1938.

GATHERING OF EXISTING DATA.

An outline of the general method by which the base map was constructed should prove of interest to all.

In the beginning, while the Inventory parties were busily engaged in collecting the enormous amount of necessary field data, there was a small office organization devoting its efforts to obtaining, classifying and checking for use all suitable authentic and accurate existing map data, tabulations and publications. These efforts resulted in the gathering together of perhaps the largest single collection of maps and related data pertaining to Arizona, that is now in existence.

The greatest number of contributors of such factual data were United States Governmental agencies, among which might be mentioned the General Land Office, Geological Survey, Coast and Geodetic Survey. Forest Service, Indian Service, National Park Service, Postal Service, Soil Conservation Service, Bureau of Census, Bureau of Reclamation, Bureau of Public Roads, Bureau of Air Commerce, and numerous others.

Valuable data were furnished by various Departments, including the University of Arizona, Corporation Commission, Department of Education, Land Department, Water Commissioner, Adjutant General, and last but not least, the Plans, Bridges and Dams divisions of the Highway Department. Due credit must also be given the County Engineers and Supervisors, the Southern Pacific and Santa Fe Railroad companies, all the large mining companies of the State, the Mountain States Telephone and Telegraph company, the City Engineers, Chambers of Commerce, postmasters, and many engineers and professional men in private practice.

One of the most important preliminary operations performed in this connection was the tracing and making of blueprints of more than 2,000 official township plats of the General Land Office. This phase of the work was accomplished through the medium of a Works Progress Administration project supervised by the Planning survey. Without the aid of the W. P. A. in this endeavor, the progress of the mapping would have been somewhat retarded and the costs thereof great ly increased.

MARCH, 1938 ARIZONA HIGHWAYS CONSTRUCTING THE BASE MAPS.

The county base maps were drawn on a polyconic projection, using North America Datum, and, as previously stated, on a one inch equal one mile scale. The initial step was plotting on detail paper work-sheets ten-minute coordinates of latitudes and longitudes. These coordinates are more commonly known as geographical lines.

The second step was plotting on each sheet, by very accurate geographical positions, a sufficient number of Geographical Survey triangulation points as to provide an accurate control and check on the plotting of subsequent features.

For several years the Forest Service, Geographical Survey and General Land Office have been taking measurements, or land ties as they are often called, between the triangulation stations of the Geological Survey and the nearest or most easily accessible corner of the sectionized surveys of the General Land Office. The third step of construction was the plotting of the land ties just mentioned.

The fourth step was the building up of the land grid (where surveyed) from the official townsite plats of the General Land Office. The township surveys of the General Land Office in Arizona date from the early seventies up to the present time. The early surveys were performed by private surveyors under contract to the government. In those early days land was of little value, and naturally much of the country was quite inaccessible. The above reason, together with the fact Chandler and area, showing completeness of map, giving minute detail. This project of highway department most complete ever attempted in this state.

that the Gunter's chain and other comparatively crude instruments were used to make surveys, to a great extent account for the many wide discrepancies which now exist between the earlier and more recent township plats. It was these discrepancies which presented one of the most difficult problems encountered during the entire process of compilation. In order to overcome this obstacle and still maintain as far as possible the accuracy of the map, it was necessary to consider each township plat individually. Adjustments, where necessary, were made almost exclusively in the very early surveys. The earliest survey, of course, received the greatest adjustments, and, conversely, the later surveys were adjusted but little, but no adjustment was attempted in the very recent surveys. Thus were the intercepting spaces between the definitely established land ties filled.

Fifth in order was the delineation of certain prominent topographical features. This included the showing of major drainage channels, main mountain ranges and peaks, valleys, canyons, cliffs, lakes, canals, etc. In the case of drainage lines, a distinction was made between continuous and intermittent flow streams. Different symbols were employed to depict dry, intermittent and live lakes. In desert and sparsely settled areas partic-ular attention was paid to the location of important springs and waterholes.

Plotting of the 3,413 miles of State Highways was the sixth step. The greater part of the State system has been accurately surveyed and tied in to the land surveys; hence, it furnished an excellent base from which to plot the secondary and feeder systems. Where surveys had been made on county roads such information was used to good advantage in supplementing the State system as a basis for plotting other roads.

The seventh step consisted of plotting all existing railroad lines within the State. This phase of the work was greatly facilitated by using the right-of-way maps of the various railroad companies. Also by aid of these maps many sidings, spurs, stations, drainage lines, etc., were definitely located, thus eliminating numerous discrepancies and questions which might have otherwise arisen. Furthermore, the definite position of these railroad lines and their adjacent accessories afforded another positive check on the location of many roads of greater or lesser importance.

Eighth in the process of compilation came the plotting of approximately 22,000 miles of rural and land-service roads. This was a large order and in many instances presented some most interesting and intricate compilations in

25 ARIZONA HIGHWAYS

trying to determine just where such and such a road was located. Nevertheless, in the majority of cases, thanks to the existence of aerial surveys, recent forest maps, or the efficient work of the Inventory Parties, it was possible to keep at a minimum the number of roads which necessitated further field checking.

The next or ninth step was the plotting of all cultural items adjacent to or visible from each and every mile of highway or road in the entire 26,000 miles. The locations of nearly all such items were determined and recorded as a part of the field Inventory Survey. The importance of indicating complete cultural data on the maps cannot be overestimated because, after all, the amount of such culture along any road is one of the primary factors to be considered in determining whether or not a road should be developed and, if so, to what extent it should be improved. In fact, this study will probably reveal that many roads now considered public roads do not have a legitimate excuse for existence at all. Furthermore, and included in this phase of the work, was the depicting of other objects that cause or influence traffic, such as cities, towns, centers of population, and highway connections with other transportation facilities. Airports and landing fields are shown by appropriate symbols. The foregoing, together with the items mentioned under field work, constitute only a partial list of the items, too numerous to mention, which have for the first time been adequately mapped for the entire State and in such a manner comprehensive enough as to enable the highway planner to use the same intelligently for the benefit of all concerned.

The tenth and final step in drafting the base map was the delineation of all national, state, county and municipal reservation boundaries by use of an ap propriate stipple band one-eighth inch in width, placed adjacent to and inside of such boundaries. Included in this stage also was the lettering of the official names of all reservations, cities, towns, rivers, streams, parks, etc. Populations of 1,000 persons or more for all places, incorporated or otherwise, have been indicated. Elevations of prominent peaks and other landmarks are shown where such information was available. Every road in the State Highway system has been properly marked with the correct number and symbol for U. S. and State Routes, as the case may be.

REVIEWING AND VERIFYING THE BASE MAP

Before any of the county base maps will be approved or ready for distribution they will have been reviewed, checked and verified by practically every competent and interested authority in each county. For example, each county map will be submitted to the county engineer of that particular county. After he has completed his review, all errors and omissions will be verified and corrected, if necessary. Similarly, the portions of the map covering each National Forest, Indian Reservation, National Park or Monument, etc., will be likewise reviewed by their respective administrators or qualified assistants. A final check, especially for uniformity of symbols, lettering and general completeness, will be made by representatives of the U. S. Bureau of Public Roads. After thus completing the process of verification, the Base Maps of the Arizona State-wide Highway Planning Survey will unquestionably be the most complete, up-to-date, accurate and comprehensive maps of the entire State that have ever been produced.

Statistically speaking, seventy work sheets, each thirty-six by sixty-six inches in size, were required to cover the State. Each sheet embraced one degree of longitude and thirty minutes of latitude. When these sheets were finally traced for the County Base Map series, more than one hundred tracings, each thirty-six inches wide and ranging from forty-four to seventy-two inches in length, were required. The several extremes in size and shape of the fourteen Arizona counties necessitated the wide variation in tracing lengths. To illustrate this point, consider Santa Cruz county with its convenient and comparatively regular shape and embracing only about 1,229 square miles; it required but one tracing.

As a contrast in the opposite extreme, take a look at Coconino county, the second largest in the United States. It contains approximately 18,623 square miles and is of such irregular proportions as to require thirteen tracings of varying lengths. Similarly consider Mohave county, which although only containing 13,390 square miles, also necessitated the preparation of thirteen tracings. This, however, was not due so much to its large area but principally to its very peculiar shape.

All in all a total of almost 1,300 square feet of tracing cloth was consumed in the preparation of this Base Map. Just to illustrate what this means, imagine those one hundred or more tracings being put together to form one large map of the State. Well, about the only place one could hang it would be on the front of one our downtown business buildings. Even then one would have to select a building at least four stories high or the map would still drag the ground, so to speak.

Perhaps by this time you are wondering how much this huge map will cost. The cost of the entire mapping process when completed will be in the neighborhood of $30,000. Of this sum only a small portion will have been contributed from regular State Highway funds, the greater portion being derived from Federal-aid Funds furnished by the U. S. Bureau of Public Roads.

SPECIAL MAPS.

Included in the cost estimate of $30,000 is the preparation of three special series of county maps, a small State Base Map and two special state maps.

The three special series of county maps will be prepared on reproductions of the County Base Map. One series will be called the General Highway and Transportation series. To the data shown on the Base Map will be added such information as road types, mileages between important points, airway routes, etc. Of especial interest is the seven classifications of road types to be symbolized as follows:

The second special county series will be termed the School Bus Series. Here only pertinent information relating to school districts and school bus routes will be added to the Base Map.

The Postal Route Series, as the third county series is known, will be mainly devoted to depicting the operations of the U. S. Postal Service in relation to the roads and highways of the State.

STATE MAP.

The small State Base Map previously referred to will be drawn to a scale of 1 inch equals 8 miles. It will be approximately 4 by 6 feet in size. The State Highway system and all important county roads will be shown thereon, and, of course, the usual other features of similar sized maps. This map will not differ greatly from several such maps now in existence except that it will undoubtedly be the most up-to-date.

On reproductions of the State Base Map will be prepared two special series State Maps. The first will be the General Highway and Transportation State Map and will show similar information as outlined for the county series of the same name.

The second special State Map will be known as the Bus and Truck Transportation Map. On this map will be outlined the roads and highways upon which all public carriers operate.

CONCLUSION.

The mass of detailed and special information which will be finally incorporated in the several maps described in a general way herein, will undoubtedly prove of inestimable value by presenting for the first time a comprehensive picture of the existing transportation system to be used as an aid in the planning of Arizona's future highways.