Yours Sincerely

"The Entrada of Coronado"

(Continued from Page 25) the hills, the river trails, ashes and ruins, back to Compostela.

"What hopes, what hungers, what vain dreams of gold"The seven cities in the cloudy north, the riches of some wandering orient, the seaways to the East-the fortunate islands.

"No bound to visions and desires, and now, the dust, the thirst, the rock beneath our feet that wears the iron from the charger's hoof, and the red courage from the strong man's heart...

"Land known too well, and the slow drums, and home."

Such is glory. Then (to quote the stage directions of the author), "the army, in rags, straggles along. Cardenas leads, with a small troop on horseback. Then a few foot soldiers, then Alvarado, with another troop; then some Mexican Indians. Then Jaramillo, followed by soldiers and the women; the women pause momentarily, and Jaramillo also pauses and looks back to see that they are coming. Then Coronado, riding alone, with his head bowed; just after he passes the center of the stage, he raises his head, and as he disappears, he seems to be looking forward bravely. A sorry troop, the weakest and most weary, follows him. At the end a few Indians..."

How different from the army of Coronado The Entradas to be given at Prescott and Clifton will be supervised by trained directors sent out by the U. S. Coronado commission. The casts will be selected from residents of the two Arizona cities. These entradas will give visitors to the Southwest a view of the first magnificent chapter of Southwestern history.

that marched so vaingloriously from Compostela to the north two short years before.

The final scene depicts the trial of Coronado. The lawyer speaks: "... This man led out an army for the service and profit of the crown. He wasted lives and treasure. He brought back nothing. He did not command or control his officers, and they left the land in ruins, the women violated, the cities devastated with fire and blood...

Coronado speaks in his own defense and concludes a stirring passage with this statement: "What we won is a knowledge and a vision. It is not proved that we went in vain, for only the centuries to come can make this sure."

The judges confer. The Viceroy Mendoza finds that the charges brought against Coronado have not been proven and ends with the pronouncement: "Coronado, you are free."

The Arizona Coronado Cuarto Centennial Commission, arranging the Celebration in this state, is as follows: Stuart M. Bailey, chairman; Mrs. Foster Rockwell, vice-chairman; O. S. Halseth, treasurer; Charles M. Morgan, executive secretary; and Walter Bimson, Nick C. Hall, Andy Matson, Peter Riley, Leo Weaver and Miss Virginia M. Thomas, members.

Leslie P. Jacobs of Prescott, representative of the U. S. Coronado Exposition in Arizona, is assisting in various parts of the program.

Along the Highways and Byways THE CORONADO TRAIL:

Stretching between the towns of Clifton and Springerville in eastern Arizona is 125 miles of spectacular scenicway -the Coronado Trail-so named because it follows along the general path of Coronado and his minions of the Conquest who passed this way four hundred years ago.

The Coronado Trail, which was dedicated in 1926, is possibly the most exciting scenic drive available to the traveler following the trails westward. It crosses mountain ranges, climbs peaks, slashes its way through heavy forests of pine and aspen, loiters through green meadows, and throughout its course reveals a personality, which, for infinite variety, is by far the most beautiful roadway in Arizona and one of the most spectacular in the west.

At its dedication in 1926, an important document was read at the dedicatory exercises which was unique in the history of American road building. The King of Spain sent his greetings, blessings and best wishes for an American highway.

For scenery, sweeping vista, and sheer greatness of roadbuilding, the Coronado Trail is, indeed, a blessed path for the traveler to follow.

You start your drive in Clifton, in Greenlee county, Arizona, 3460 feet above sea level. Clifton nestles in the shadows of the Blue range, a separate and distant range of mountains in eastern Arizona, which derives its name from the blue haze which hangs over its lofty peaks, its wooded canyons.

From Clifton the Coronado Trail climbs leisurely up Chase creek, and Metcalf canyon, past Metcalf, historic mining camp, now a ghost town. Climb-ing out of Metcalf canyon, the Trail brings you to Cherry lodge, 6000 feet in elevation. Seven miles more and the traveler arrives at Grey's peak, 7500 feet in elevation. It is important to note the elevations in order to visualize the ascent and descent.

From Grey's peak there are several miles of gentle descent and then a few miles of travel over a mesa. Then up to Rose peak, 8000 feet in elevation, the approach to which brings you into the heavy forests of eastern Arizona, the cool forest of pine. From Rose peak you can look down on Clifton 45 miles away. After Rose peak the Trail goes down again 15 miles to Rattlesnake Springs, and then begins your third steep climb of the trip. This time you reach the highest point in the Blues, at an elevation of about 10,000 feet, from where you can on a bright day see Mexico, many miles to the south. You have climbed up onto the Mogollon Rim.

Generally the Peak of the Blues is wrapped in clouds and the traveler seems to be isolated far above the world. Then down you go into the K. P. Cienega, along K. P. Creek, and into a forest wonderland. Here you find yourself in the greatest uncut stand of timber in the United States-yellow pine, Douglas fir, aspen, white pine and spruce of various varieties. The open meadows are carpeted with Spanish iris, white daisies, and blooming locust.

The forest is all around and about you and practically overwhelms you as you drive on. Seventy three miles from Clifton, you come into the lovely Hannigan Meadows, a garden spot in the mountains, at an elevation of 9000 feet.

Twenty two miles further you come to Alpine and Nutrioso, two picturesque mountain towns, and then your journey ends at Springerville, where U. S. high-way 60, U. S. highway 260, and State highway 73 join with U. S. highway 666, the numerical name for the Coronado Trail.

The Coronado Trail is a gravel road in excellent repair. You cannot travel swiftly but you can travel safely and every mile is a mile of scenic delight. To better illustrate the ruggedness of the country the Trail traverses, one can point out that the Trail is closed to all travel from October to May as heavy winter hangs its curtains of deep snow over the lofty peaks making the Trail impassable during that time of the year. Accommodations for the traveler are available at Springerville, Alpine, Nutrioso, Hannigan Meadows, Cherry Lodge and at Clifton.

CORONADO PLACE NAMES:

The good Conquistador has long since gone, but his name still remains in Arizona and it probably always will. There is, of course, that glorious scenic-way, the Coronado Trail.

Then there is "Coronado," a small railway station in Greenlee county. There is "Coronado Mountain" in the Clifton mining district about four miles west of Metcalf.

There is also the great Coronado National Forest, lying in Pinal, Pima, Santa Cruz and Cochise counties and a corner of Hidalgo county in New Mexico. The total area in Arizona in 1931 was 1,376,763 acres, no small memento to remember a person by.

W. V. Olin, genial secretary of the Greenlee county chamber of commerce, also reports that there is a Coronado Masonic lodge, the old Coronado mine, and the Coronado Woman's club, all of which indicates the good people of Greenlee county have not forgotten their first visitor.

NAVAJO FAIR:

The Navajo Tribal Fair, to be held at Window Rock, Arizona, Sept. 20, 21, and 22, is one event Arizona Highways recommends enthusiastically to every traveler following the trails westward for pleasure in this land of sunshine and scenic grandeur.

Put a big ring about your calendar at that time, because it will give you a chance to visit the land of the Navajos and to attend an event that will be entertaining and educational.

John C. McPhee, former editor of Arizona Highways, who is public relations counsel for the Navajo Nation, is executive secretary in charge of the fair. He has had great success in his work and his job in promoting this fair, with the cooperation of the Indian Bureau, has been a distinguished success.

Window Rock, the capital of the Navajo Nation, is one of the most beautiful reservations in the United States. It is situated in Apache county, near the Arizona-New Mexico border, about 25 miles from Gallup. It can be reached from Gallup; from Lupton on U. S. 66 by traveling due north 41 miles; or by traveling northward from Chambers to Ganado and then eastward. This distance is about 70 miles.

This year 15,000 Indians from every part of the Navajo reservation will gather at Window Rock for the Navajo Fair. There will be a complete program of events for the Indians, such as a rodeo, dances, races and other competitive events, and there will be an exhibit of Navajo arts and crafts, in which every form of Navajo handicraft will be displayed. This is one of the most ambitious presentations of Indian arts and crafts in America and every visitor will find it most worthwhile.

Not only will the Fair be of interest to all travelers, but it will also be a motive for one to take that interesting trip through the Navajo reservation. September is a grand time to visit this strange, exotic land of the Navajos.

TROUT FISHING IN THE GRAND CANYON:

If you are one of those people who go in heartily for any kind of sport as long as it is trout fishing, may we recommend for your consideration a fishing jaunt to the Grand Canyon.

That a person would want to spend his time fishing in such divine scenery is a point many people will not under stand, but then many people refuse to eat apple pie unless it is loaded with whipped cream. You'll understand the sentiment if you like trout fishing.

The National Park Service planted 40,000 fingerlings in Thunder River and Bright Angel Creek this summer. Stocking of these streams has been underway for several years, so the fishing supply is assured.

Before 1936, Bright Angel Creek was considered the best trout fishing stream in northern Arizona. Then along came the big floods of August of that year and the trout were washed out. Since then the stream has been carefully restocked.

Stocking of fish in the Grand Canyon streams is no easy task. Trout must be packed in ten gallon milk cans and iced. These cans are loaded on mule back and transported down the scenic and steep trails leading to the bottom of the canyon and then the fish are planted in quiet, cool pools to reach their maturity and do gallant combat each summer with those chaps who come poking along with their fishing rods and tantalizing bait.

NOTES: Mr. Clark Gable, a well-known figure of Hollywood and many other parts of the civilized world, spent five days To complete these cinema observations, it has been called to our attention that Lake Havasu, the body of water on the Colorado river formed by Parker dam, is favored almost every weekend by a group of motion picture people from Hollywood in quest of some of the finest bass in America's inland waters.

Nineteen forty is continuing to be the record travel year for Arizona. For the first six months of 1940, nearly 50,000 more foreign vehicles entered the state than during the same period last year. June of 1940 exceeded June of 1939 by 5,500 automobiles, and judging by the amount of traffic on the highways, this summer will be a record maker. Traffic in June was up both at Boulder Dam and at Grand Canyon. America is discovering Arizona.

The National Geographic Magazine, June issue, has an excellent article by Frederick Simpich, which should be called to the attention of every traveler following the trails westward. The article is entitled: "Seeing Our Spanish Southwest." It combines history, recreation and travel information in one big tasty bite and it is about as fine a guide to the Southwest as any travelwise person could possibly have.

"In this eventful 1940," Mr. Simpich writes, "just 400 years behind the Spanish Conquerors, sightseers by millions are again 'discovering' our southwest To their excited amazement these eager 1940 explorers are actually discovering this Southwest Wonderland, just as truly as did Coronado, Onate, Father Kino, and all that gallant band of knight-in-armor, courageous padres, and ragged, audacious adventurers who saw it first, who 'fell on their knees and then on the aborigines' and claimed it for the King of Spain a claim that was to stick for nearly 300 years."

Mr. Simpich has done very well with our Southwest. A brilliant writer and astute observer, this author finds the Southwest exciting and interestingwhich, of course, it is.

The Book-of-the-Month Club recommends "Arizona: Guide to the Sunset State" in its list of choice books for June. The guide was reviewed in the Book-of-the-Month Club News. The review said in part: "The compilers have been unusually full and interesting in treating the geology and geography of the state; and they have done justice to its scenery, which ranks among the most magnificent in the world, with a number of handsome photographs." The reception of the Arizona Guide has been gratifying to those in charge of the Arizona Writers Project. Critics throughout the country have praised it. The Arizona Writers Project is now turning its attention to an Arizona Fact Book, which when published will have under two covers a vast storehouse of information of a factual nature treating with a multitude of Arizona subjects, classified and indexed for perfect ref-erence use. R. C.

Yours Sincerely ARIZONA'S GLORY:

Every time I receive your interesting publication I visualize scenes of ancient grandeur. The great canyons are mementos of nature's constructive skill, a reminder of the civilizations of long ago. I seem to see the cliff-dwellers, the cave habitations, the men and women of fortitude battling the animals in search of shelter and food, the survival of the fittest.

Men have changed, the animals are destroyed, but nature's monuments live on and on as proof of Arizona's glory. The rocks and rills typify the simple life of a strong race and of a proud state.

I thank you for sending me the Arizona Highways. It increases daily my desire to visit your state.

Charles A. Oberwager, (Former Judge, New York City), New York, N. Y.

FOND MEMORIES:

For some time now I have been receiving your valuable and interesting magazine.

I should have thanked you long before this, but you may be assured that the thanks are more sincere now that I have had an opportunity to learn to appreciate your publication I have had the pleasure of driving through your state on numerous occasions and think that nature was at its best when the scenery of your country was conceived. Every issue of your magazine brings back fond memories of happy moments spent in Arizona.

W. G. Kaliska, The Coca Cola Company, Wilmington, Delaware.

FROM A FORMER RESIDENT:

I look forward to the arrival of your magazine and most certainly enjoy all its pictures and stories. I am especially fond of the old time stories and reference to the pioneers and their part in building Arizona.

It has been my privilege and good fortune to have been a real resident of Arizona. I lived in Jerome when United Verde was the "Big-hole" and United Verde Extension a pretty good mine too.

Please accept my congratulations to you and to Arizona for being so aggressivesive and progressive in the publication of Arizona Highways. Tom Hunt, Pacific Nash Motor Company, San Francisco, Calif.

THE HOPIS WERE EXCITED:

Congratulations on your highly interesting magazine. I read it from propeller to rudder every month and then pass it on so others may get the inspiration of its graphic pages.

Some Hopi Indian women were in to see me yesterday and by accident spied your June issue the Indian number. They got quite excited over the pictures of Hopi land and Hopi people. One of them wanted to know if she could get a copy of the magazine. Will you please send her a copy to her address if it is possible to do so.

Evon Z. Vogt, Editor and Publisher, The Gallup Gazette, Gallup, New Mexico.

FOREST SERVICE:

I have just glanced through a recent Arizona Highways and have put it aside for a real reading. I look forward to enjoying it thoroughly. Both my family and myself have been most pleased and commendatory of this magazine and while I know undoubtedly you receive many compliments, possibly you will be glad to know that in my opinion this magazine is of a very high standard of quality and interest.

T. W. Norcross, Chief, Division of Engineering, Forest Service, U. S. Dept. of Agriculture, Washington, D. C.

LAND OF SUNSHINE:

I am taking this opportunity to express appreciation of your publication Arizona Highways which in my humble opinion is the most impressive Highway and Tourist number finding its way to my desk.

I love Arizona, its scenery, its climate, its people and its Indians who are ever interesting, and surely your publication filled with interesting literature and splendid pictures makes me homesick for another plunge into that land of sunshine, pure air and contentment.

Joseph E. Noll, Mgr., Jackson Citizen Patriot, Jackson, Michigan.

FROM A FRIEND IN DETROIT:

I want to congratulate you on the June number. It is a most excellent one as a matter of interest and historically as well.

Last night, there was a Sioux Indian at my apartment and he liked the number so well that he is going to write for one. I told him to take mine that I was quite sure you would send me another copy.

Carl F. Clarke, Detroit, Michigan.

FROM AN ADVERTISING MAN:

Have just received five copies of the June issue of Arizona Highways and just wanted to make the comment that I thought it was a very fine number. Want to compliment you on the layout of the book and the fine collection of photographs which you presented.

F. O. Tredway, General Advertising Manager, Southern Pacific Company, San Francisco, Calif.

FRIENDLY CALIFORNIANS:

Permit me to express my appreciation for Arizona Highways.

I consider it one of the country's outstanding magazines.

Milton Offner, Secretary, Board of Public Works, Los Angeles, Calif.

Your monthly publication of Arizona Highways is, without doubt, one of the finest magazines we have ever read and your photographic illustrations are particularly outstanding.

A. P. Ireland, Division of State Lands, Sacramento, Calif.

Arizoniques

When Coronado was seeking the "Seven Cities of Cibola" in 1540, he was told by Indians of a great river to the north, and sent Cardenas, with twelve men, to investigate. After twenty days travel they came to a great chasm whose buttes and towers that "appeared from above to be the height of a man were higher than the tower of the Cathedral of Seville." This great spectacle was the now world famous Grand Canyon, wholly within Arizona's bounds.

Inscription House Ruin, one of a group of three ruins in Navajo National Monument, was so named for a Spanish inscription carved on one of the walls, "S-hapiero Ana Domo 1661."

It is generally agreed that the Coronado Expedition, traced by eminent scholars, marched down the San Pedro River to near Benson, through Dragoon Pass and Railroad Pass, reached the Gila River near Solomonsville, crossed the Gila Bonita in the southwest corner of the White Mountain reservation, crossed the Salt River, reached the head waters of the Little Colorado River somewhere near Springerville and St. Johns, and from there went on to the Zuni River.

Tucson is said to be one of the three oldest settlements in the United States. In 1822, with the termination of Spanish rule in Mexico, Tucson came under the jurisdiction of the Province of Sonora. In 1853 it came within the territory acquired by the United States in the Gadsden Purchase.

Antonio de Espejo, in 1652, marched into what is now Arizona as far as the Bill Williams Fork, west of Prescott, and found silver ore. He then returned to Mexico, taking samples of the ore with him which eventually stimulated Spanish interest in Mexico and the country north, and the vast territory, including Arizona was finally taken over in the name of the King of Spain.

The people of Hano, at the head of the First Mesa in Hopiland, are Tewans whose ancestors moved from the Rio Grande to the Hopi country during the great pueblo revolt against Spanish authority in 1680. Since that time they have been honored with the site where they still live, and are known as "The Guardians of the Trail."

While Coronado was marching to Cibola, Hernando de Alarcon and his men sailed up the west coast of Mexico, entered and explored the Gulf of California, and ascended the Colorado River in small boats for some distance. He was, so far as is known, the first white man to navigate that river.

Padre Garces received his crown of martyrdom at the hands of the Yuma Indians at the Mission site near present Yuma on July 17, 1781, when the Spanish Padres, while celebrating Mass; settlers, and soldiers at that place were nearly all slaughtered. A monument to Garces now stands near the spot.

Practically all writers agree that the first mission in Arizona was the mission of Guebabi or Guervavi, on the San Pedro or Santa Cruz river, about 1687, of which there is no trace now.

Casa Grande Ruins, now a national monument near Coolidge, is mentioned in the writings of Fray Marcos de Niza in 1539; Castaneda, in 1540; Padre Kino visited it in 1694, and several other early Spanish explorers found it in semi-ruins and apparently then hundreds of years old.

The fabulous "Seven Cities of Cibola" instead of being the jewel bedecked golden cities that sparkled from afar, were found by Coronado in reality to be a cluster of mud villages occupied by the Zuni tribe of Indians, just across the State Line into New Mexico from Arizona.

Coronado's Expedition was such a fiasco that everyone in official Mexico tried to forget the whole affair, which caused the expenditure of great wealth and much sacrifice. But few settlers were sent north thereafter and the country reverted to the Indians. Those Spanish who did try to enter were repulsed, the Apaches being in full control for about 150 years until the coming of the celebrated Padre Kino.

In 1776, Padre Garces saw a great river red with mud and called it "Colorado" (Spanish for red.) Previously, in 1540 it was called "The Firebrand" by Diaz because the Indians carried firebrands or torches to warm their hands or set fires. Alarcon in 1540, called it "River of Good Guidance or Safe Conduct." Onate in 1604 called it "River of Good Hope", and in 1776, Garces called it "River of Martyrs." The name "Colorado", however, even though called "River of Martyrs" by Garces, because of its redness, was finally retained by the great Franciscan Friar.

The wanderings of Cabeza de Vaca, (1535-36). Spanish explorer, covered a large area of what is now the United States, and his accounts thereof are the first records we have of this part of the Southwest.

In 1774, Padre Garces and Padre Juan Diaz accompanied an expedition led by Captain de Anza to lay out an overland route between the missions of Pimeria Alta (Northern Mexico and Southern Arizona) and those of California. The trail led from Tubac to the Gila River and west across the Colorado River to San Gabriel on the Pacific.

The Hopis, first visited by the Spanish explorers in 1540 were called Moki. or Moqui by them, which means "dead" in their language and was keenly resented by them. That region was called Tusayan by the Spanish.