Trees of Stone from the Ancient Past

Of MORE than usual interest to the tourist, as well as to the home folks of Arizona, is the Petrified Forest National Monument in the northeastern portion of the state.

Located as it is between two main highways of the state, U. S. 66 and U. S. 260 converging at Holbrook, the area is very easily reached by many of the visitors coming to Arizona. About 200,000 visitors each year come to see this very interesting area.

Included within the boundaries of the monument is an area of 141 square miles and here are to be found the five largest petrified forests known to exist anywhere in the world. A large portion of that intriguing, colorful, and fascinating area known as the Painted Desert with its

Junior Park Naturalist Petrified Forest National Monument

Black Forest is included in this National Monument.

A proclamation by President Theodore Roosevelt in 1906 set this monument aside as one of the prized heritages of the American people to be preserved and protected for all time, for all people to come to see and enjoy.

Who may have been the first white man to see the Petrified Forest is still unknown. It is to be assumed that possibly a few of the early explorers of the Southwest may have passed through it or at least near the forests since the time of the coming to this region of the first white man, Fray Marcos de Niza, in 1539.

The discovery of these ancient forests by any of the early American pioneers is credited to Lieutenant Sitgreaves, who in 1851, reported finding petrified wood in Northern Arizona.

Two years later Lieutenant Whipple, who was surveying a route for a transcontinental railway, reported finding the Black Forest of the Painted Desert area.

In describing the petrified wood and the scenery of this National Monument, words seem very inadequate in portraying a true picture of the scenic, scientific and spiritual values presented to the human mind by these wonderful creations of the Creator.

All the colors of the spectrum and many shades and hues are to be found in the petrified wood and in the beds of shale and sandstone that served as the burial place of these ancient forests, and now form the colorful erosional features of the monument.

Just how the burial and petrifaction of these very old logs came about is still something of a geological puzzle. It is known that the trees grew and were buried in the geological age of the Upper Triassic about 160 million years ago. Truly a very long time ago, and time enough for a great many things to have happened to those trees of stone that were living trees in that Mesozoic Age.

Just what took place or just how the petrifying process was carried on by nature in those bygone ages of that very ancientpast is still something of a mystery. It is believed by the writer that the first stage in the petrifying process is that of infiltration or the absorbing of minerals from underground waters by the buried logs to the point of complete saturation or the complete filling of the wood cells and the intercellular spaces with minerals. A second stage is that of the replacement of the wood by minerals in perfect reproduction of the wood structure and figures seen or imagined to be seen in its polished surfaces but also for its strange formations of silica and its semi-precious stones in forms of agate, onyx, carnelian, jasper and amethyst How did these trees turn to stone? It is believed that most of these logs were floated into this area, where they are found today, by the streams of a rather large drainage basin and that the place of their burial was a wide spreading flood plain where the streams dropped their loads of silt, sand, and gravel, as well as the logs that were later to become precious gems of petrified wood in forms of agate, onyx, opal, jasper, Chalcedony and amethyst. Probably as soon as these logs were buried in their beds of sand, gravel and silt the process of decay due to the action of bacteria was stopped and very likely the petri faction began was probably brought about by the action of certain chemicals in the underground mineral water which dissolved molecular particles of wood and simultaneously deposited an equal amount of mineral in its place.

Today we find that the wood has been completely removed in the case of the majority of the logs and in its place we find silicondioxide, or as it is commonly called "silica" combined with a small percentage of iron and manganese oxides to give the colors.

As has been stated, all the colors of the rainbow are to be found in the petrified wood of the Arizona forests. These colors were produced by iron and manganese oxides combined with the silica in the solutions of the underground waters that served as the active agents in the petrifying process, so that we today may marvel and wonder at the sights of exquisite design and delicate colors of beauty presented in the polished sections of these petrified logs. Not only is this petrified wood remarkable because of its beauty of color and design of that make up a good portion of many of the petrified logs. Quartz crystals of many colors besides the amethyst crystals are found in the cavities of the logs and add much to their beauty.

The Agate Bridge, probably the most noted petrified log in the monument. It is said to be the World's Oldest natural bridge.

Some of the logs have had their central portions completely removed, probably by decay before the logs became buried and petrified, and may well be called the “Original Holler Logs.” A few of the logs have been uncovered by erosion in such a way as to be left on a support of shale or sandstone above the surrounding levels and have been called Pedestal Logs. Others are now found supported by the opposite banks of a wash or an arroyo and thus form natural bridges. The Agate Bridge, which is such a log, is possibly the most noted log in the Monument. It measures 110 feet in length and its central portion is about thirty feet above the bottom of the arroyo it crosses. According to Believe it or Not Ripley this Agate Bridge is the world's oldest natural bridge.

The forces of nature in endless and ever continuing struggle have brought about these marvels of her handiwork; the growth

sawed by some ancient woodsman or Paul Bunyan.

Many logs exposed for great periods of time have been nearly completely broken into tiny fragments and still are being broken into smaller bits to be carried away to the sea, there to be made a part of a new page in the Record of the And well hidden spots of the monument has revealed the presence of at least thirty-five other identified species of the flora of the Upper Triassic in Arizona. Cycads, ferns, fungi, horsetail-rushes, ginkgoes and others besides the before mentioned species of pine and gnetales have been identified.

These plants of the Triassic Flora and a few animals, in particular the Phytosaur and Stegocephalian, fossilized skeletons of which have been found, are known to have had their existence and to have flourished in the semiIndian Petroglyphs reveal the passing of some pre-historic people. A portion of the Newspaper Rock and a small sample of the thousand or more Prehistoric Indian picture writings in stone to be found in the Petrified Forest National Monument.

A small portion of the Third Forest is shown here. Paved trails lead to the most interesting parts of the various forests. Trail markers assist the visitor in learning the geological and scientific story of the petrified wood.

Of forests of gigantic trees; the death and burial of many of them; their transformation into gems petrified; and strangest of all their resurrection, of that of being brought to the surface so that we learn of the strange things nature has performed in preserving for us these trees of stone from the Ancient Past. Endless erosion and weathering still at work today have broken many of the petrified logs into very even-sized sections much as if they had been Rocks being written there today. The most common fossilized tree of the Petrified Forest of Arizona has been identified as a member of a very ancient pine tree family and is called "Araucariolyx arizonacum." Besides this tree two other species of the early pines have been identified namely: the "Podozamites arizonicus" and "Woodworth arizonica." Another tree of a different family, the Gnetales, has been found and named the "Schielderia adamanica."

tropical climes of that early day as evidenced by the fossils of the animals and the perfect impressions of the leaves and other plant parts preserved in the fine silt or mud laid down in the quiet water of small lakes or pools, later to become the hard beds of shale today; the preserving medium of the Paleobotanist's study specimens. A study of the plant fossils from the fossil leaf beds found in a few segregated And thus the work of nature; the preserving of fossils of plants and animals of the past ages; the uncovering of these same fossils by erosion has been carried out, so that we might read at this far distant date another page in the Record of Rocks. A page which helps in a measure to reveal the history of our world in a geological sense and to present a part of the story of the struggle for life and improvement up through the ages. A story of advancement from very simple forms of life in the earliest rocks of the earth to ever more complex forms of each succeeding age up to our present day. Besides its geological story, the Petrified Forest National Monument has scenic values of a nature not met with in many places of the world. There's a weirdness about the grotesque forms of the Painted Desert and some of the other erosional areas that is hard to explain. Some folks look in wonder and are pleased. Others look at what seems to them a scene of desolation and feel glad that they live some place else. Yet all of them can scarcely help but marvel at the beauty presented in the sculptured and their number remarkable but their display of color is truly a marvel of sheer beauty. The Petrified Forest National Monument can also be considered an important archaeological area for more than 240 sites of the Prehistoric man's dwelling places have been found within its boundaries. This large number of sites with approximately 700 rooms seems to indicate that a goodly number of these early Indians must have occupied the area during the past few centuries. The Agate House, a structure built of semiprecious stone, petrified wood, by these early peoples, illustrates the style of home making as practiced by these folks about a thousand years ago. This Prehistoric seven room apartment is but one of the more than 240 sites that have been excavated in part and five rooms of this village have been counted and it is believed that several more may have existed, judging by the amount of fallen rock about the still remaining base of the walls. Just how many of these early inhabitants occupied this region is problematic. A study of the artifacts found at a number of the sites indicates a few things about them. They made pottery of a very high order; built houses in stone and displayed remarkable masonry; tilled the soil in the Fossil leaves from the Upper Triassic Flora of the Petrified Forest. Many species of plants, ferns, cycads, rushes, and others, have been identified in the leaf fossils found in certain fossil leaf beds of this monument.

Large log sections as they have been for centuries. Erosion has scattered or left a number of the logs in queer positions. Many of them have become Pedestal Logs.

turrets, terraces, mounds and mesas of the badland areas that meet the eye at every turn. Without question the petrified trees are the chief attraction when we consider that many of these logs are giants in their own right, for many of them have been found to measure more than 150 feet in length and are from eight to ten feet in diameter. Not only is the size of the logs partly restored to what Archaeologists believe to be a true representation of its former self. It pictures, in part at least, the style of homes built by the Prehistoric Indians of the Petrified Forest Region. The Puerco River ruins located near the Puerco river ranger station is the site of a pueblo village dating from about 500 A. D. to about 1350 A. D. One hundred twenty production of most of their food supply; shaped implements of stone and petrified woods; and strangest of all managed to exist in an area where today, it would seem quite impossible for anyone to eke out an existence.

Corn and beans probably served as the most important of their foods for the number of corn grinders, metates and manos, found at the numerous sites is astonishing and all of them bear very marked evidence of a great deal of use.

Thousands of petroglyphs have been carved on the faces of the sandstone rocks in the neighborhood of many of the sites, possibly carved merely as a pastime, or possibly as an expression of artistic desires, or more probably as a playful expression of objects seen and enjoyed. Some called them “Prehistoric Boon-doggling.” Nevertheless all of this petroglyph making seems to indicate that at least some time for leisure was available, for it seems that a vast amount of time and energy was expended in the making of such a great number of stone carvings.

The Painted Desert Inn and Museum, constructed by CCC labor, houses a Park Service Museum, a restaurant and trading post. Auto court cabins are now under construction.

All in all, the records left by these early peoples in the form of stone structures, artifacts of many kinds, and a vast array of picture writing, tell a most fascinating story. A story yet incomplete; still waiting the tools and the technique of the Archaeologist in order that more monument from U. S. 260 at a point 19 miles east of Holbrook, and joins U. S. 66 at a point 25 miles east of Holbrook. Short side roads from the monument highway lead to the several points of interest, namely: Rainbow Forest and Museum, Indian Petroglyphs, Third Forest and Agate House, Second Forest, First Forest, Agate Bridge, Blue Forest, Newspaper Rock, Puerco River Indian Ruins and the Rim Drive of the Painted Desert as well as the Painted Desert Inn and Museum. The above points of interest are named in the order that they would be met by visitors entering the monument from U. S. 260 highway.

Three Museums, the Rainbow Forest for a very important purpose as far as the carver was concerned, but today meaningless to the present day Indian or to the Archaeologist. Today it seems that these petroglyphs may have been of the details about these folks may be brought to light so that a more com-plete story may become known.

The Petrified Forest National Monument is under the administration of the National Park Service, whose representative in immediate charge of the monument is Thomas E. Whitcraft, superintendent, with offices at the monument headquarters; address, Holbrook, Arizona.

An excellent paved highway crosses the Museum, the Puerco station, and the Painted Desert Inn Museum are maintained free of charge to visitors, and each explains a part of the story of the monument. The Rainbow Forest Museum tells the geological story and houses a marvelous display of polished petrified wood and the fossils of the ancient plants and animals.

The Puerco station presents the Archaeological story of the region while the Painted Desert Inn Museum tells the story of the Painted Desert and illustrates the Arts and Crafts of the present day Indians of Northeastern Arizona.

Park Naturalists are on duty at the Rainbow Forest Museum and the Painted Desert Inn Museum at all times and assist visitors in their enjoyment of the monument and the story presented and explained by the Museum exhibits.

Accommodations and services for the public are provided by the Rainbow Forest Lodge at the Headquarters area Oh, Ranger! Who sawed the logs? This question is often asked and it is a rather difficult one to answer. It is believed that the logs were cracked by forces exerted on them after they were petrified and still buried by the weight of the materials deposited above the logs. Shocks caused by earth movements, earthquakes, vibrations of the earth's crust during the period of uplift of this region, all had a part in the breakup of the logs as well as the erosion and weathering that has uncovered the logs.

and by the Painted Desert Inn at the Painted Desert area. Camping facilities are provided at the Headquarters area and provisions for picnic groups are provided for in the picnic area about one half mile north of the Camp Grounds.

The monument highway is closed at night. Opening and closing time corresponds very closely with the rising and setting of the sun. The opening time during summer months is 6 a. m., and the closing time 7:30 p. m.

A fee of 50 cents is charged for an auto permit, which is good for the entire calendar year. It is not transferable to other cars. The Museum and picnic and camp grounds are free.

The Petrified Forest National Monument and the Painted Desert within and without the monument boundaries can be visited to advantage all during the year. The weather in the area never attains