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the world at your door at flagstaff college

Featured in the March 1943 Issue of Arizona Highways

"China Boy" is one of the best known rock figures in the monument. It is located near the Bonita Canyon Highway.
"China Boy" is one of the best known rock figures in the monument. It is located near the Bonita Canyon Highway.
BY: Bob Evans

Although Fort Bowie was established in Apache Pass in 1862, the demands of the Civil War kept the Fort so short handed that an organized campaign against Cochise and his Chiricahua Apaches was not possible. By 1870, white settlement and development of the re gion had been brought to a standstill, Cochise and his warriors from their strongholds in the Chiricahua and Dragoon Mountains practically controlling the region southward into Sonora, Mexico, and east as far as the Mimbres Moun tains in what is now New Mexico. However, in 1872, a truce was effected and for the final two years of his life, Cochise and his loyal followers remained at peace with the white men. Soon after the death of Cochise in 1874, the Chiricahua were removed from their for ested mountains and settled with other Apache tribal groups on the San Carlos Reservation. The home-loving Chiricahua were not happy, dissensions arose, and bands of the more ad venturous left the reservation time and again to attack and plunder the whites under such chieftains as Chato, Pionsenay, Victorio, Nana, Loco, and Juh. For ten years, settlers were constantly in fear of an Apache attack. Troops were sent to defend them, and these renegade bands were gradually reduced in numbers, their chieftains tried and convicted of murder, and their followers brought back to the reser vation. Most ferocious and determined of these renegade leaders was Geronimo who, from his ancestral stronghold in the Chiricahua Moun tatins, led raiding parties in all directions, even into Mexico. Familiar with every trail and retreat, and able to travel rapidly to distant hiding places, Geronimo kept the Southwest in an uproar until 1886 when he was finally cap tured. He was imprisoned in Fort Bowie from which historic post, on September 8, 1886, he and his ragged band were deported across the continent to Florida. This ended the organized uprisings of the Chiricahua Apaches, the long and persistent fight of a freedom-loving people against insurmountable odds. However, some of the Chiricahua eluded the soldiers, escaped into Mexico, and attacked a settlement of Mor mons there as late as 1900.

Somewhere en route to Florida one member of Geronimo's band, Big-foot Massai, is reported to have escaped from the train and, after in numerable hardships, returned to the land of his birth. Although he remained part of the time with members of his tribe on the San Carlos Reservation, he was unwilling to be con fined by man-made boundaries and roamed, alone, the haunts of his ancestors occasionally making the long trek into Mexico where, for a time, he lived with the band of Geronimo's fol lowers which had evaded the soldiers.. Last evidence of his presence in the Chiricahuas was in 1890 when his moccasin tracks, recognizable because of their large size, were reported seen in Bonita Canyon. The footprints were fol lowed up Rhyolite Canyon, then up a sidecanyon, and over a ridge, the canyon and ridge which now bears the name of Massai Canyon and Massai Point. With fear of Apache raids a thing of the past, prospectors, cattlemen, and ranchers established themselves in the Chiricahua region. Some were soldiers who had served in the Apache wars, liked the country, and decided to remain.

Two of these Jhu Stafford and Neil Erickson, took up land in Bonita Canyon, now the en trance to the monument. The original Stafford cabin still stands, and Faraway Ranch, the Erickson homeplace, now operated by Mr. and Mrs. Ed Riggs (nee Lillian Erickson, Neil's daughter), provides meals, lodgings, and saddle horses for monument visitors desiring these accommodations. The big ranch house fireplace is built of boulders, on which are names and dates inscribed by the soldier companions of Neil Erickson during the exciting days of the Apache campaign. With the opening of the country, develop ment of mines and smelters, and construction of roads, knowledge of the amazing features of the Wonderland of Rocks in the Chiricahua Moun tains became widespread, attracting visitors from far and near. That the area was worthy of national attention became recognized, and in April 1924, President Calvin Coolidge proclaimed it Chiricahua National Monument, thus assuring its protection from commercial exploitation and vandalism, and indicating such de velopment as would make its features comfortably accessible.

Today the monument is administered by the National Park Service of the Department of the Interior and is under the immediate super vision of a resident custodian, Frank Fish, with headquarters in an attractive, stone adminis tration building in Bonita Canyon about one mile beyond the monument gate. Here visi tors are furnished information about the roads and trails of the monument, and receive ex planations regarding the strange rock figures and other natural phenomena which they see or in which they are especially interested. Ex hibits interpreting the major features of the monument are being planned and, as time and funds permit, will be built and installed in display cases which have been prepared for them in the administration building lobby.

Construction of residence and utility buildings for the monument was completed by the Civilian Conservation Corps in 1940, the va cated camp buildings being remodeled to provide inexpensive but comfortable tourist ac commodations. This development, called Far away Lodge, is being fitted up, as this is written, especially for the benefit of organized groups for weekend use. The National Park Service will continue to furnish free guide and interpretive service, and if possible, will pro vide illustrated interpretive campfire talks re garding the various features of the monument on evenings when there are sufficient visitors at the free campground or at Faraway Lodge and Ranch. With a world at war, the tempo of living, especially in the industrial cities, has increased to fever pitch. War nerves are developed as much, perhaps, by the urgent demands for speed and the irritations of traffic jams, and supply bottlenecks, as by fear of actual attack.

vide inexpensive but comfortable tourist ac commodations. This development, called Far away Lodge, is being fitted up, as this is written, especially for the benefit of organized groups for weekend use. The National Park Service will continue to furnish free guide and interpretive service, and if possible, will pro vide illustrated interpretive campfire talks re garding the various features of the monument on evenings when there are sufficient visitors at the free campground or at Faraway Lodge and Ranch. With a world at war, the tempo of living, especially in the industrial cities, has increased to fever pitch. War nerves are developed as much, perhaps, by the urgent demands for speed and the irritations of traffic jams, and supply bottlenecks, as by fear of actual attack.

But deep in the heart of the Chiricahua Moun tains, neither the weird erosional figures, nor the deer, nor the nesting birds know that there is a war.

Summer breezes gently tug at drooping branches and set them swaying. Ed Rigg's well-fed horses surreptitiously snatch tempting bits of herbage from the trailside and feign indignation at slaps urging them to increased motion. Here is a refreshing interlude in a time of trouble, where the harmony of Nature prevails, nerves are quieted, worries dispelled, minds and bodies gradually relax, and physical reserves begin to restore energy, revive hope and optimism. Only the great, grey profile of Cochise Head, in dignified repose on the north ern skyline, and the blood-stirring roar of a force of basic trainers riding the beam remind the visitor to Chiricahua National Monument that human beings, still, are unable to live at peace with one another.

"THE WORLD'S LARGEST TEXTBOOK" ASTC Students at Flagstaff Study Geology Close to Home BY BOB EVANS

WITH all of its wonders of nature, Northern Arizona with Flagstaff as the center, has become a paradise for authorities and stuable amount of time, one would not realize that dents alike as a place to study Southwestern each different layer of rock is a page in a textand general geology. Within a 60 mile radius book and this textbook is lying open, ready for of Flagstaff a student may see excellent exa person to walk through it, reading as he amples of volcanos, glaciers, meteorites, and, goes. These natural wonders are the first with the exception of one, every climatic zone sparks of interest in the student's mind to learn in the world. Several colleges and universities more of the unexplored earth sciences. throughout the United States send their stuDr. Harold S. Colton, founder and director dents on long and expensive field trips and of the Museum of Northern Arizona, has done many leading authorities on all types of earth more than any one other person in bringing to sciences visit this compact, cross-section of the light and encouraging the study of Northern world in an effort to add to the meager knowlArizona geology. edge of the formation of our earth. In Flagstaff some of the nation's leading geoloAll of these natural wonders are in the backgists live, one of them being a professor on the yard of Arizona State Teachers College, ready subject at the college. This is John C. Mcfor the students to examine the formations Gregor, who is considered the leading authority page by page, paragraph by paragraph and on Southwestern archeology, also a popular sub line by line. For this reason, students have ject at the college, and an excellent authority been coming to the Flagstaff college from on geology. He is author of a textbook ennearly all corners of the nation for the purpose titled "Southwestern Archeology," the only of studying geology, or, after arriving at the up-to-date textbook on this subject. Another leading authority, especially on the college, have become interested in the subject Grand Canyon, is Edwin D. McKee, who is from a cultural, hobby or professional stand regularly employed by the Museum of North point. Many times a student, after seeing the ern Arizona and is now on a year's leave of wonderful geology facilities at the college, absence as a geology instructor at the University changes his curriculum to include at least some of Arizona. Mr. McKee is author of "Ancient studies in this field. Consequently, the num Landscape of the Grand Canyon Region," an ber of students in these classes is steadily outstanding book on this subject. Lowell Observatory, where Pluto was discov increasing. It is interesting to note that most students ered, and where more research work has been take the course as a cultural science or hobby. done on Mars than at any other place in the This is explained by the fact that most people, world, is within easy walking distance of the until they have the privilege of seeing such college. Dr. V. M. Slipher, considered the sights as Meteor Crater, Grand Canyon, Sun nation's leading authority on Mars and all of set Crater, Coal Canyon, and all the other its mysteries, personally takes the students on geological wonders Northern Arizona is blessed a tour of all of the facilities at Lowell Observa with, do not realize the story behind it all. The coloring is appreciated and the massive-

theory of which an excellent example cannot be found would be evidence of glaciation, although there are some evidences on the beautiful San Francisco Peaks, which are studied each year.

From the textbook an attempt is made to paint a picture for the student of what North ern Arizona looked like millions of years ago, but the picture is transformed into a vivid actuality when interesting field trips are taken Here they see the picture fossilized into solid rock. During the Triassic period, the age of dinosaurs, the country around colorful Coal Canyon, in the heart of the Navajo Land, was submerged by the ocean and students, while on a field trip, are thrilled when they find well preserved shells of brachiopods, coral, sponges and crinoids. Alternating beds of sandy, shale and lime material show the variation in depth of this prehistoric sea. Sights such as these give students the urge to dig in deeper for knowledge of our earth's formation.

During the fall, few trips are taken by students in this elementary geology course, be cause they would be unable to understand and appreciate the things pointed out to them until after they are instructed in the general theories. However, one trip, to the Museum of Northern Pictured are some of the students on their Grand Canyon field trip just before they enter the tunnel leading to the suspension bridge where they will cross the Colorado River and journey on to beautiful Phantom Ranch. In the front and center of the group is Dr. C. E. Hablutzel, professor of science at the college who often makes the trip just for enjoyment.

History. Included in the tour is a short study of the volcanos on the moon through the telescope. Much of the information learned in connection with these volcanos is a result of the study of earth's volcanos.

Major L. F. Brady, member of the Museum of Northern Arizona staff, is probably the most popular with students because of his unusual ability to tell the story of the formation of our earth in a humorous and highly entertaining fashion.

Dr. Agnes M. Allen, associate professor of science at the college, wrote her doctor's dis sertation on Verde Valley geology. A copy of this is kept in Gammage Library and often used as a reference by students. Dr. Allen attends nearly all field trips and teaches sev eral of the geology classes.

Aside from the above mentioned, students have the opportunity of hearing talks from authorities of Grand Canyon National Park, such as Dr. Harold C. Bryant, superintendent of the park, and Louis Shellback, chief natural ist and geologist.

All of the above mentioned contribute heavily to the success and popularity of geology courses for students at the college.

At present, facilities at the college do not permit a major in earth sciences, but following the war it is expected to add enough courses in this line to permit a major. Student demand has been the big factor causing the administra tion to increase geological facilities. Dr. T. J. Tormey, president of Arizona State Teachers College, has always attempted to add courses to the college, other than required classes, which the students express a desire for, and it is because of this popular demand that Dr. Tor mey has promised greatly increased attention to the earth sciences.

The first geology class offered students, and probably the most popular, is general geology, a pre-requisite to the balance of the earth sciences. In this class the student first studies the theory from various textbooks, and then goes into the field and actually sees all of the "dry" and bewildering theories graphically illustrated by Mother Nature the difference between Arizona State Teachers College and most other schools. In the course's textbook, a survey was made to see examples of all theories presented in the book. It was found 60 miles would be sufficient radius. The only As the students go further into their textbooks, hot weather causes all jackets and sweaters to come off and less attention points toward geolo gy in an effort to get to the food and showers at Phantom Ranch.

Pictured is a view of the oldest rocks in the world, found in the inner gorge of Grand Canyon which the mighty Colorado River is continually cutting deeper and thereby answer ing more questions concerning the earth sciences.

The volcanic area about Flagstaff always proves extremely interesting to the student. This is another page in the story of the world making that can be read in the "world's largest textbook."

Students always enjoy and appreciate the explanation of Major L. F. Brady about this pre-historic fossil. It is commonly referred to by students as "Major Brady's grasshopper."

The legend of how the pumpkins petrified is completely discarded by students after they learn of the geological theory. Dinosaur tracks always hold a great deal of interest for the students and, while examining huge tracks, one of the students, or Major Brady, nearly always suggests that some member of the class follow the tracks and eventually they will find a dinosaur's fossil. Often the visit to Moencopi village is the first time class members have the opportunity of seeing a real Indian village which has not been built by white man for the benefit of tourist. Of course, there is little value of this stop from a geological standpoint, but the instructors attempt to give the students a chance to see everything possible throughout the field trips.

Returning from Coal Canyon, all pockets bulge with the many fossils found in that area. After the first few field trips, the now amateur geologists have started a collection of rocks and fossils, sometimes developing into an exceptionally fine assortment. It has been traditional with class members to donate some of the finer specimens to the school's museum, As a result of this, many fine rocks and fossils are always available for new students to examine.

Many other fine field trips are taken each spring, but the place and time often depends on staff members of the Museum of Arizona.

A student studies a cross-section of Highway 66 from Lupton to Needles. Traveling from Lupton to Flagstaff, it is possible to observe rocks from every geological era in sequence, in more detail from Flagstaff to Needles.

Many times they will have some work to do in the field and invite the class to go along. Other times the staff members go along just for the enjoyment. The Museum often helps students through school by hiring them to classify fossils and doing other work. School officials have always been highly gratified by the fine cooperation of the Museum staff.

Several unusual students have attended the college and become interested in geology or physical science. Among them is Wayne Bryant, son of Dr. Bryant of the Grand Canyon. Mr. Bryant originally came to Flagstaff for a major in Biology, but after his freshman year, the major was switched to physical sciences. He plans to attend the University of Colorado his last year so that he will be able to obtain a degree in this line. A brother of Mr. Bryant, Herwil Bryant, was on the Byrd expedition to the Antarctic.

Another boy came to Flagstaff from Chicago to study geology and after taking all of the courses offered, he found his interests were pointed toward erosion. He is now employed by the government as an erosion expert among the Pinto bean farmers near Flagstaff. A girl attended San Diego State as a geology major for two years and then came to Flagstaff to continue her studies in the field. And there are numerous examples of other students coming to Flagstaff for this field, not because the class is pushed and highly advertised, but because they read of this part of the state in textbooks. Not only have the natural wonders near Arizona State Teachers College aroused interest in earth sciences, but also the Hiking club, one of the most active organizations on the campus, takes many trips each year. Nearly always, the geology students are leaders in this club. One major hike is taken by this organization each spring. The hike is to Rainbow Natural Bridge, Phantom Ranch or Havasu Canyon, depending on the year. Yes, Arizona State Teachers College at Flagstaff, like Arizona, is blessed with beauties of nature which cannot be taken away from her. After the war, many of her students will return to their campus and continue the studies of Mother Nature, thanking her for placing them at their disposal.