Apache Trail

The Apache Trail, modern surfaced scenicway, follows closely the old trail used by the Apache Indians, and possibly the prehistoric tribes before them, through the mountains east of the metropolis of Phoenix, and extending to the mining centers of Miami and Globe.

This natural wonderland, with mysterious Superstition mountain flaunting its western entrance, is matched mile for mile with mighty creations of man. A series of great reclamation dams whose impounded waters create power for huge hydro-electric plants, also form a chain of beautiful mountain lakes for more than sixty miles, the water to be released as desired to irrigate the vast agricultural empire in the Valley of the Sun. Also there are ruins of the homes of prehistoric Indians perched high in the cliffs.

Leaving Phoenix and traveling east over U. S. Highways-through Tempe, Mesa, and on to Apache Junction -the gateway to the Apache Trail is reached. The monument at this junction was erected to the memory of Jacob Walz, whose legendary gold mine of fabulous wealth is said to be hidden in the rugged fastness of Superstition mountain, the search for which goes on yet today. There are many legends about Superstition mountain. It is said the Indians shy away from it as being "bad medicine."

The precipitous west front of Superstition is skirted bythe highway to and beyond the old mining camp of Gold- field which once produced considerable rich ore. The Apache Trail cuts off to the north of the Superstitions and it is from here that its mountain is viewed in its most spectacular form. Desert flora grows in great profusion as the Tonto National Forest preserve is entered. Prominent are the graceful ocotillo, cholla, better known as "jumping cactus," saguaro, or giant cactus, greasewood, creosote bush and catclaw as well as the mesquite, ironwood and palo verde trees. In the spring the yellow blossoms of the palo verde suggest a mass of gold, and it is undoubtedly the most beautiful tree of the desert.

The trail now follows a winding mountain grade, weaving in and around through multi-colored spires and peaks studded with gorgeous desert flora. A great cavity through the mountains here is called Apache Gap. This broken country of colorful cliffs and palisades, unbelievable as it may seem, was an old and favorite battleground of the warring clans of Apaches. Farther on and to the left is Whirlpool Rocks, an intricate formation resembling whirling waters, caused by the erosive forces of wind and water through the countless years.

The trail descends rapidly toward Canyon Lake, the first of a chain of lakes formed by the impounded waters of the series of reclamation dams Roosevelt, Horse Mesa,Mormon Flat and Stewart Mountain dams. The latter dam, which holds Saguaro Lake, is ten miles below Mormon Flat dam and seven miles north of the Apache Trail. Neither the dam nor the lake can be seen from the Apache Trail. They are reached by a road leading north, from U. S. highway, eight miles east of Mesa.

Continuing on the Trail, a fork to the left leads to Mormon Flat Dam, which holds the waters of Canyon Lake. This dam is also hidden from view from the Apache Trail. Magnificent Canyon Lake, proclaimed by many to be one of the most beautiful in America, reflects the massive canyon walls which in some places reach heights well over a thousand feet, rising sheer from the surface of the water. The mirror-like reflections from the placid surface are almost as absorbing as are the views of the crags themselves. There is something overwhelming in the still majesty of the cliffs.

Boating, swimming, fishing and other recreational activities are enjoyed here throughout the year. Picnic parties often take boat trips far up into the canyons where the scenery is spectacular and ever-changing. In these canyons hundreds of familiar profiles can be seen outlined in the rocks of the cliffs, and with a little stretch of the imagination, many familiar profiles can be identified. There are many large bass, a fine game fish, to be caught here.

The road winds down, skirting Canyon lake, for some two miles, and, crossing Willow Creek and Canyon Lake bridge, the Port of Phoenix is reached. At the boat dock here, out board motor boats, taxi boats and row boats are available. Arrangements can be made for cruiser trips.

About a mile beyond, climbing back into the hills, a road branches off to Saguaro Park, and another mile along, a road turns out to another retreat, Surprise Canyon. The Apache Trail winds around and down to Tortilla Flat, so named because of rock formations resembling a huge platter stacked with tortillas, the Spanish word for pancakes.

The scene has changed considerably. There are cattle grazing on lush green fields, presenting a pastoral scene, a pleasant transition from the breath-taking trip thus far. Five and a half miles beyond Tortilla Flat a side road to the left leads to Horse Mesa Dam, which forms Apache Lake, soon to be reached.

For several miles the highway traverses a high plateau but after crossing Ash Creek bridge a few miles along, the most spectacular scenic excitement of the entire trip begins. The curving mountain road winds through canyons tortuous and high-walled, over steep summit ridges and along the ledge of precipices that sink for hundreds of feet below.

Whispering Horse Canyon, sometimes called Devil's Canyon, cuts a deep gash, appearing almost bottomless, through the pass. Looking over the protective railing into this rugged gorge, as fantastic as its name, the sight is awesome in its severity. The wind blowing through this canyon has given rise to legend that the whispering winds caused dread superstitions among the Indians.

Winding around four miles of upgrade, the summit of Fish Creek Hill is reached. From here there is a magnificent panorama as far as the eye can see. Looking down over the brink into Fish Creek Canyon, over a thousand feet below, it is almost unbelievable that a trail could be built safely to negotiate such a startling descent-in less than two and a half miles. Hugging the perpendicular walls, the trip down Fish Creek Hill is a never to be forgotten sensation in nature's handiwork and beauty. Painted cliffs in gorgeous colors of red, purple, gold, green, copper and bronze, blend and contrast in countless combinations. Grotesque carvings and crags of varied hues dazzle the eye and stimulate the imagination. Great Walls of Bronze rise sheer many hundreds of feet, almost shutting out the outside world, as the steep descent progresses. Twisting, turning, in and out in a series of hairpin turns, the trail, which has been cut through solid rock here at great cost, follows the contour of the tortuous canyon sides. Reaching the depths and driving south, crossing Fish Creek bridge, a sharp turn to the north is made and one can almost reach out and touch the road just passed, they parallel so closely.

Through the narrow depths of the canyons at the base of these mountains is beautiful Apache Lake, a long picturesque reservoir held by Horse Mesa dam. Like a magnificent mirror this body of water reflects the colorful cliffs which rise thousands of feet above its surface. Like some of the others it too is hidden from view far up the canyons.

On the north side of the canyon below Horse Mesa dam site and about a thousand feet above the water level, is situated a large cave known for years as Skeleton Cave. At this point in 1872, Captain Burns of the 5th U. S. Cavalry and his detachment of soldiers, after following the hostile Apaches all day, finally ran them into this cave, which is admirably situated for defense. Finding that he could not approach the cave he ordered his men to fire volleys at the roof and sides of the cave, and in this manner almost a hundred Apaches were killed by the ricochet of the soldiers' bullets. Only one Indian escaped alive a boy about seven years old. The soldiers took him over as a mascot and called him Mike. Later the name Burns was added. The boy grew to manhood and spent his entire life in Arizona, during which time he became quite a prominent figure.

The trail follows Apache Lake for several miles, and after crossing the Pine Creek bridge and looking back, Apache Lake sparkles in the Arizona sun like a myriad of jewels. The saguaro cactus grows thicker here almost a forest of these weird creations of plant life. Contrasting with the reds and whites of the road bed earlier on the trip, the road now cuts through rock of rich green and pale purple. Surely, of all the beauties of nature, none could The Apache Trail leads through many miles of beautiful country, skirts three man-made lakes formed by mighty reclamation dams, passes near the ruins of prehistoric Indians, perched high in the cliffs.

To be more fascinating than this sight. As the trail climbs the canyon sides and leads around the shoulders of the hills the scenery changes in infinite variety. Apache Lake parallels the highway almost to Roosevelt Dam which suddenly appears as suddenly and spectacular as the many other sensations of the Apache Trail. Spread out beyond the dam is placid Roosevelt Lake which when filled, extends for a distance of 23 miles and covers nearly 18,000 acres. A sixteen-foot roadway traverses the top of Roosevelt Dam. This road leads north to Tonto Basin, an area rich in history and the site of the notorious Graham-Tewksbury cattle-sheep feud; the Mogollon Rim, noted wild game region; Tonto Natural Bridge, world's largest travertine arch; Montezuma Well, natural phenomenon; and the northern lakes and Flagstaff. Three miles along the Apache Trail from Roosevelt is the entrance to Tonto National Monument, ruins of ancient cliff dwellings high up in the cliffs overlooking the fertile valleys below. From the entrance this road leads one mile south into a canyon, terminating at the monument headquarters, from which the lower dwellings can be plainly seen. The Lower Dwelling is 300 feet up in a cliff recess and is reached by a half-mile foot-trail which has been constructed in switch-back fashion in order to make the ascent less difficult. The Upper Dwelling is 300 feet beyond and is not visible from the lower ruin. Returning to the Apache Trail, there is a gradual drop toward the mining towns of Miami and Globe, after leaving the summit of the trail about fifteen miles beyond the cliff dwellings. From Roosevelt Lake to the summit, nearly 4,000 feet above sea level, a steady climb of some 2,000 feet has been made. The hills through here are rockstrewn and covered with a variety of vegetation.Passing Smoke Signal Peak, White Mountain, Pinal Canyon; and leaving Crook National Forest, soon the great Miami copper smelters appear. At Claypool Junction, the road to the right leads to Miami, three miles distant, and to the left, Globe, four miles beyond. The Globe-Miami mining district is one of the richest in the United States in the production of copper. On the return trip, the Superior Highway, one of the most fascinating scenic routes in the state, may be taken, completing the loop back to Apache Junction and Phoenix. Near Superior on this highway is the famed Southwest Arboretum, comprising 2,000 acres where more than 10,000 species of plants and flowers, gathered from every corner of the earth, are grown here for scientific study. It is one of the nation's most remarkable institutions and the thousands of cacti and other varieties, set out in the natural desert environs, present a striking picture of rare beauty.

Tonto National Monument consists of two separate ruins, the Upper and the Lower. These prehistoric cliff dwellings were built in the fourteenth century. There are over 100 rooms in the two units.