KAIBAB

Share:
In summertime mountain north of Grand Canyon attracts visitors.

Featured in the July 1949 Issue of Arizona Highways

Rich vegetation covers the high Kaibab plateau.

comes to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, and you can look off into the Big Gorge. Keep a keen eye on the dark timber! You'll see the famed Kaibab deer. They are magnificent animals. Visitors to the forest there often vie with each other to see who can count the most deer in the forty-mile run to the Rim. Any morning early, or in the late afternoon, the total will run over a hundred. Sometimes it will double or even triple that. There will be herds of them in the open parks, the forest glades and even standing beside the road.

When you enter a most pleasant dining room you feel the warm hospitality of mountain people. No meal will ever be more pleasant than dinner in the A little side trip, along one of the ridges running off the main road, will let you see more of these wild creatures, standing statuesquely or trotting majestically, a part of God's landscaping scheme for the Kaibab. The climax, if there can be a climax of impressions on the Kaibab, comes when you drive around the bend in the road and come into the head of Pleasant Valley. You have evening alongside one of the windows. As the shadows of spruce finger darkly across VT Park, deer scamper out of the thick trees and the gloom of the forest. They hurry to catch the last caress of the day's sun as if they know it gives them a golden sheen. It is quite a floor show! There are cabins there, too, at Kaibab Lodge. You will find them rustic and comfortable and reasonably priced. At Kaibab Lodge you will be at 8,900 feet. The air has a snap to it, even in summer.

Having been driving through thick timber, and suddenly it is wide, rolling grass lands a meadow. The trees retreat on each side. Some whitefaced cattle graze there. You will see deer on the forest fringe. The road curves easily and you have that feeling of boundless freedom. A blue, blue sky, piled high, sometimes, with tremendous white, glistening clouds, is the canopy. The forest closes in swiftly as you come to the end of Pleasant Valley. There will be a rising curve in the road, and then. you drop into the head of VT Park.

Five miles south from Kaibab Lodge you pass from the U. S. National Forest into the Grand Canyon National Park on the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. Observing eyes can immediately see a difference in the vegetation. The Park area has been unused, and is rapidly returning to a near-pristine condition. There is lush grass of a hundred varieties. Wildflowers embedded in a kneedeep nap of ferns, grace the glens. All these are nearly absent on the forest outside. Here in the Park, the foliage is full, and you have the feeling of being one of the first persons in the area, even though an oiled and surfaced road stretches away from your car. If you watch closely you might even see the rare dusky grouse. Certainly though, you will see the deer, everywhere. Last fall, on a trip to the North Rim of the Canyon, my car turned the bend in the road. On one side, the ground dropped away to a deep gully, on the other it climbed steeply to a ridge. My companion saw a group of does up on Occasionally, you will find a beautiful pond of water beside the road. It won't be large. The lakes aren't large on the Kaibab, because the mountain is porous and water seeps away, but summer rains and melting winter snows keep them full. Wild ducks will often be on them. In the dim light of evening, deer step in neat tracks around the edges.

A sight you'll remember is your first glimpse of Kaibab Lodge. You will see it first from across VT Park. Whoever planned its construction and architecture did a perfect job of fitting a building into a background. Blue the hill, and called for me to stop. We got out and climbed the ridge. The does filed off slowly, and suddenly on the skyline a buck rose out of the brush where he had been bedding down. He was a magnificent animal in full antler. His new blue-gray fall coat glistened metallically. His muscular body rippled with fat as he trotted off across the skyline.

smoke from a log fire on the wide hearth curls upward. As On the North Rim, you'll find the magnificent Grand wonderful views from dining room, balcony and cabins. The Utah Parks Company operates this concession, together with a cafeteria, giving perfect service at modest prices. A stay at Grand Canyon Lodge is in itself one of the highlights of a trip to the Kaibab and the North Rim.

The North Rim of the Grand Canyon is set apart from the South Rim by a thirteen-mile wide, mile-deep gorge. And there is more of a difference than that. The North Rim has a native charm, is more isolated, less crowded.

Jacob Lake Inn on the Kaibab is open the year long. Kaibab Lodge and Grand Canyon Lodge open to accommodate tourists in late May-Memorial Day this year for the hotel and Kaibab Lodge will open as soon as the snow has been cleared from the roads and they are passable Kaibab Mountain is high. You will see last year's snow banks in late June. In fact they have a unique way of celebrating the Fourth of July at Kaibab Lodge. In preparation for the holiday they go deep into the forest and obtain enough snow from last winter's fall to make homemade ice cream, which is served on that eventful day!

There are many unusual side trips to be made from the tourist centers on the Kaibab. Some are easy to doin a car. Others are only for the very hardy adventurers to do on foot or horseback.

Take the trip off the East Rim in North Canyon. It's a tough, long climb on foot. It even takes a good, strong horse to make the trip without giving out. There is a trout stream down in North Canyon, not very much of it though, because the stream is small and short. It gushes forth from a spring and sinks into the sand after only a few miles.

The trip into Thunder River is only for the very strong and hardy fishermen and explorers. Thunder River is down off the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. To get there you go out on Little Saddle Trail, then... but a complete description of the trip is a story in itself. Don't attempt to do it without horses and a guide, and a qualified guide at that. They have been into Thunder River many times, alone and with fishing and adventuring people.

The trip to Thunder River affords excellent trout fish-ing in a setting of incomparable beauty.

Kaibab Mountain has a greater influx of visitors in the fall than in the summer. These people come during the deer hunting season. The finest Rocky Mountain Mule Deer trophies come from the Kaibab and it is world-famous for its venison: The annual hunt brings more than two thousand hunters into the area. Jacob Lake Inn, Kaibab Lodge, Big Saddle, Moquitch, Pine Flat, Bee Springs, Quaking Aspen and Parishawampitts camps will all be overflowing with hunters after prime venison.

A sojourn to the Kaibab will be an experience you'll file away in your memory, especially if you take a few side trips such as the ones to: The East Rim overlooking House Rock Valley, Cape Royall, Point Sublime, Crazy Jug Point, Castle Canyon.

The one into Castle Canyon for instance there is one to excite even the most sophisticated. At Castle Rock you will see old, old corrals, watering troughs made of hollowed-out logs, and one of the finest springs of water you could find anywhere. It comes out from under a huge overhang of cliff rock, which makes it almost a cave. There, 'way back in under the rock, a spring of water develops. Even the inexperienced eye can tell it has been used for years and years: by Indians, by early explorers, by hunters, by cowboys, and now by vacationers.

If you're around the old timers on the Kaibab, like Uncle Billy Crosby, you'll hear stories of the old West. John D. Lee will live again at Lee's Ferry. Samuel Clevenger and his wife, Sarah, will take their wagon train up through House Rock Valley on the old Emigrant Road and the Navajo Trail, to be murdered near Rock Canyon. If you listen closely you can hear the ghost hounds of ol' Jimmy Owens, running a lion's trail, or, hear the hilarious yarn about the time Buffalo Jones, Jimmy Owens and Uncle Dee Wooley brought buffalo to House Rock Valley.

You are literally as well as figuratively out of this world when you get acquainted with the pleasures, the people and the history of Kaibab Mountain on the North Rim of the Grand Canyon.

Arizona's College in the Pines

expansion and improvement program calling for an expenditure of $2,000,000. This is in addition to the $350,000 science building now under construction and the modern steel football stadium completed last fall.

During those 50 years the institution at Flagstaff grew academically from a normal school to a four-year teachers college authorized to grant bachelor degrees in education. Later a fifth year of study for a master's degree in education was authorized. More recently the legislature changed the name of the college from Arizona State Teachers College to Arizona State College, and in September, 1946, the Board of Regents granted the Flagstaff institution the authority to grant liberal arts and science degrees as well as the degrees in education.

For half a century college students at Flagstaff have enjoyed the unique advantages afforded by a "campus" of approximately 10,000 square miles, encompassing a wonderland of science and scientific resources unequaled by any other similar area in the world.

This is no idle Brobdingnagian boast. In 1903, Territorial Governor O. A. Brodie's annual report to the U. S. Secretary of Interior lauded the climate and surrounding scenery as making Flagstaff the ideal location for the newly-established Northern Arizona Normal School. More and more, down through the years, the college has stressed the full utilization of the surrounding natural resources. Outdoor classrooms and recreation areas regularly used bystudents and faculty spread over more than a 100-mile radius in almost every direction from Flagstaff.

Geology and botany students go into the field to actually see the things they read about in their text books. They walk down into the incomparable Grand Canyon, a mile deep and 13 miles wide; they explore enchanting Havasu Canyon, the semi-tropical home of the Havasupai Indians, with its blue green river and breath-taking waterfalls; they visit the Petrified Forest, lying about 100 miles to the east of Flagstaff; they penetrate beautiful Oak Creek Canyon and the Verde Valley to the south; they clamber into the artic zone above timber line on the towering San Francisco Peaks, rearing up to Arizona's highest elevation just north of the college; and they study Sunset Crater, the Ice Cave, and the lava beds, only a half hour easy motor trip to the northeast.

Pre-forestry students and others interested in natural resource management go into the vast Coconino National Forest, observing forest rangers at work on problems ranging from fire control to timber cruising, range management to supervision of recreation areas. They visit the nearby Southwestern Forest Experiment Station in Fort Valley. They observe the administration of national parks and national monuments, Indian reservations, soil conservation projects, game preserves, and fish hatcheries. They see sawmills and logging camps.

In addition to these classrooms provided by nature and By government agencies and industry working together with nature, there are the facilities provided by the international recognized Lowell Observatory, on Mars Hill, within walking distance from the college, and the Museum of Northern Arizona, just north of Flagstaff.

Former member of the Lowell Observatory staff is Dr. Arthur Adel, professor of physics and mathematics at the Flagstaff college. His discovery of nitrous oxide in the earth's atmosphere was recently confirmed by Belgian and British scientists.

It is interesting that students of art and home economics make good use of the displays on exhibit at the Museum of Northern Arizona. The home economics students study fabrics and designs used by the prehistoric as well as the present day southwestern Indians. Art students taking ceramics find much of value to them in studying the Indian pottery displays. Science students are the most frequent visitors at the museum, drawn by the splendid geological and archaeological displays.

At the college itself, students have an attractive choice of studies in which to concentrate their efforts. There are strong departments offering a full range of courses in art, education and psychology, English, commerce, modern languages, health and physical education, home economics, industrial arts, music, science, and social studies.

President Lacey A. Eastburn stresses that students should have a broad general education during the first Campus plant is designed for comfort and service for students during year. ASC at Flagstaff prides itself on democratic and informal life of students. College offers a complete four-year course.two years of college, with the last two years used for spe-cialization. This he feels makes for the development of a well-rounded personality and a good citizen. As a part of this program to develop its young people into competent, well-rounded adults, physical develop-ment is taken into account. Healthy, outdoor recreation is stressed in several ways. In addition to health and physical education classes that carry on their activities outdoors as much as possible, there are many college supervised trips, picnics and other outings scheduled for the weekends. Classes and club or-ganizations add to these opportunities for outdoor recrea-tion. One of the oldest organizations on the campus is the Hiking Club, and it usually has the largest membership. Weekend hikes to nearby points of interest are taken throughout the year. In the spring, when the hikers are seasoned, trips are lengthened. At least once, sometimes twice, the club schedules a hike to the bottom of Grand Canyon. The final hike in the spring is a three to four day outing, into Havasu Canyon or to Rainbow Natural Bridge. The hikers master camp cooking, carry their own food and bedding. One or more faculty members accom-pany them on each jaunt. The Ski Jacks organized more recently. Members are ski enthusiasts. After classes in the afternoons and on

Saturdays and Sundays the club membership can be found swooping down the ski courses of the Arizona Sno Bowl during the winter sports season. This ski area is only 15 miles from the college, high on the slopes of the San Francisco Peaks. Skiing is taught to beginners by Aaron McCreary, head of the health and physical education de-partment and sponsor of the Ski Jacks. Members partici-pate in the many ski meets held at the bowl, and a varsity team competes in intercollegiate meets at Flagstaff and in neighboring states. The summer session at the college, which opens each year early in June, offers many college supervised motor trips and outings. At a nominal cost students may travel by bus to Grand Canyon, Oak Creek Canyon, Walnut Can-yon Cliff Dwellings, Sunset Crater, Meteor Crater, Petri-fied Forest and the Painted Desert, the Hopi Indian vil-lages, the Navajo Indian reservation, and many other places of interest. These are organized trips sponsored by the college. The summer sessions are made particularly worth-while for teachers wanting to return to college for profes-sional improvement courses and to meet certification re-quirements. Nationally known educators are brought to the campus to conduct classes and workshop type of in-struction in various teaching fields. This summer the college offers a session of two fiveweek periods, the second starting in July. Students may profitably enroll in either or both of the five-week terms. Also, the curriculum is arranged so high school graduates may obtain first semester freshmen courses. Many of the regular year students, particularly the G. I. students, continue on at the campus and they too must be offered courses to fit their needs.

There are dormitory facilities for men and women students. In the summer, one dormitory is usually set aside for married couples without children. For married couples with children there are modern cottages and apartments. However, lodging facilities are limited, and reservation of rooms, cottages or apartments should be made in advance of registration. Since many of the married G. I. students continue in college throughout the year, cottages and apartments are especially limited in the summer sessions.

Going to college at Flagstaff is remarkably reasonable. During summer students pay $25 registration fee for each five-week term. For each of the two terms there is a student activity fee of $1.50, library fee of $1.00, and medical fee of $1.00. The $5.00 breakage deposit is returned, less cost for any breakage. Dormitory room and board cost $62.50 for five weeks, when there are two students to a room, $75 when one to a room. For board only, the cost is $50 for five weeks.

One-room cottages are $25 for five weeks, with gas for cooking and water heating, lights, and water furnished. Two-room cottages with individual baths are $37.50 for five weeks, gas, water and lights furnished. Students buy their own fuel oil for heaters. The heaters are furnished. There is no non-resident fee in the summer.

In regular college year, minimum expense for two semesters, including fees, books and supplies is estimated at $540.25. Activity and registration fees are $24 for a semester, library fee $2.00 a semester, medical fee $3.00 a semester, series fee $1.00 a semester, mimeographing fee $1.00 a semester. Books and supplies will approximate $30 a semester, and course fees and miscellaneous are figured at $3.50 a semester. Double these amounts for a fullyear. Board and room for 18 weeks semesters are $211.50, and $199.75 for 17 weeks semester. Cost for a year is figured at $411.25.

Cottages during regular year rent at $17.50 a calendar month for one-room and $27.50 for two-room and bath.

In addition to dormitories and cottages, the college has 80 two-room and bath apartments for married G.I.'s.

In summer these G. I. apartments rent for $42.50 for five weeks, with gas for heating, cooking, and water heaters, as well as lights and water, furnished.

During the regular year these apartments rent for $35 a calendar month.

SLIDES:

Is it possible to purchase kodachrome slide pictures of cactus flowers, birds, trees, scenery or other attractive things found in Arizona, similar to the pictures which appear in your magazine ARIZONA HIGHWAYS?

I took some on a recent trip to your state, but wish now that I had taken many more, and would appreciate knowing if there might be any for sale, which could be used on a projector for 828 film.

We hope this summer, however, to have slides for projection purposes made from all photographs appearing each month in the magazine. We also hope to have several series of slides produced under selected titles from outstanding photographs published in back issues. These slides, mounted for projection use, will be made from our original transparencies and we feel they will be very attractive. We hope to announce "COLOR CLASSICS FROM ARIZONA HIGHWAYS" shortly.

CIRCULATION:

I am employed as bookkeeper and accountant for the Ford Motor Company here, and read the article you wrote on "Adventure in Publishing," in the May issue of Ford Times. I was amazed at the outstanding circulation of your magazine and at the revenue from subscribers living in other states. Yours is a magazine to make one proud of having lived in such a grand state.

GIANTS ON EARTH:

I was very interested in the article on Sunset Crater. Having seen this crater and a number of other similar eruptions from New Mexico to the Mojave Desert in California, all of about the same age, I assayed their age at about 1,000 to 1,200 years long before I saw either Sunset Crater or the Meteor Crater. It is my opinion that all this volcanic activity of equal age was set off by the fall of the Winslow Meteor. The pine trees caught in the Sunset lava flow and others, found charred in pueblos within 500 miles of Winslow, accurately date the fall and subsequent eruptions at 885 AD, with only a few years leeway either side. Too little is done in collecting and integrat-

ing

"OLD LOG FENCE" BY ESTHER HENDERSON. This photograph was taken with a 5x7 Eastman View camera, Goerz Dogmar 8½ inch lens, exposure f22 at ½ second, on Kodachrome. The scene is on the road to San Francisco Peaks, between Flagstaff and Arizona Sno Bowl; the time October, 1947. This photograph explains why Esther Henderson is one of the West's outstanding photographers: her ability to portray the simplest of subjects in a way to give them great beauty and artistic merit. To her the old log fence is both romantic and beautiful and she portrays it that way in her photograph. The simplest of subjects many times make the memorable photographs.ing data known over wide ranges of time and space. I am sure many other interesting facts about the great desert are lost because nobody assembles them. To give a few instances: several years ago a couple of skeletons were dug up by an old lady near the Cactus Forest south of Florence. From the description one was a negro, age estimated by competent people, at least 500 years. I found a shaped flint as used in Spanish handguns of the time, less than one mile from where the skeletons were found. Evidence that one of the Spanish expeditions passed through there and evidently lost two men by death, one a negro, and buried them there.

A young mining engineer, to whom I gave a lift, told me about an interesting find he had made in the mountains north of the Superstitions: a fossilized imprint of a human foot 22 inches long, being proof that a) giants were on the Earth once, and b) the existence of man here at that geologic age.

HANS JAENISCH:

The water colors and drawings of Hans Jaenisch in your May magazine pleased me very much. Would you please give me his address? I hope to be able to purchase several for my collection.

IN KOREA:

For many years we enjoyed ARIZONA HIGHWAYS in Phoenix, but the pleasure your colorful magazine has brought to us in Korea and now in Japan, is tenfold. One young Korean boy studied every copy until he knew more of Arizona than most natives do. If the time ever comes when he can come to America, Arizona will have one citizen that will know the State from border to border.Here in Japan the magazine goes the rounds, as we have friends from all parts of the states, many have decided that upon their return, Arizona is one state they must see.

ARIZONA STARS

The mesa stars are friendly folk . . . When spent by heat They lean across their windowsills To breathe the scents the nightwind spills, And watch the scene spread out below, As women worn By daily toil find rest and know A city street.

CANYON DAYBREAK

Time seeps through the silence as morning's gentle glory casts blue shadows from the pinnacles. . . . The flush of first green lies close upon the mesas. . . . A rose awareness mists the canyon walls as the patient power of the waters chants from the depths and the echoes murmur their responsive litany....

THE OLD PROSPECTOR

They call him just a desert rat. His skin is tanned like leather. He's lived so long in wind and rain, His face is full of weather.

RECEPTION FOR SUMMER

While the hills skipped like young rams for the new summer the sun slashed the clouds with golden sabres.

BOTTLED FRAGRANCE

I have found the perfume of lily and rose; Pink clover and bluegrass the connoisseur knows; Exotic fragrance that hinted of musk; And strange-named concoctions like Passion at Dusk. But I have longed for and hunted in vain The scent.. of the desert after rain.

DESERT BURRO

He drags the shackles Of the unrelenting sun and turns his back . . . He staggers under the weight of stars Pinioning darkness . . . and turns his eyes . . . He hears the crescendo of silence Which mounts descending night and turns his head . . . He knows the presage of vultures, The funneling flight . . . and turns to die.

BACK COVER "ENCHANTED MEADOW" BY ALLEN C. REED. This is one of many enticing and changeable scenes you see as you wander up Sycamore Canyon trail. This trail takes you beneath cool shade trees along the stream, through little, grassy, flower-strewn meadows amply sprinkled with butterflies. It loses itself for a moment among pastel colored boulders in the old stream bed where you marvel at delicate shades of lavenders, greens, and pinks, of smooth, time-worn stones the size of your head. It takes you through cactus beds and a patch or two of thorn bushes. It will have you with your shoes in your hands, up to your knees in the creek where steep cliffs force a crossing. Camera data: Crown Graphic, 4x5, Ektar lens, f22 at ½ second. A scene such as this is heavy with the touch of Summer. The leaves of Autumn will turn the scene to gold.