Bisbee

6. The Apache Trail from a lookout point on precipitous Fish Creek Hill where the grade drops 1,500 feet in a mile and a half. 7. Roosevelt Dam. Roadway crossing dam leads to Mogollon Rim mountain country. 8. A section of Fish Creek Canyon. 9. Upper end of Apache Lake. 10. Part of the Tonto Cliff Dwellings. The original Tonto upper house was a structure of 60 to 75 rooms. 11. The trail mingles with ever-changing scenes. 12. Farming area near the east end of the Apache Trail.

peaceful Indian population was harassed by ever-present problems such as exhaustion of the relatively few acres of soil that they could reach with their irrigation ditches, internal strife and friction, physical infirmities, and destruction by bands of plundering Apaches who had migrated to the Southwest.

Sometime after 1540 for the first time the trail may have experienced the rhythmic beat of horses' hoofs as the metallic ring of Spanish armor and the lusty shouts of Coronado's followers reverberated from the countenances in the cliffs as the conquistadores passed by leading a search for the legendary Seven Cities of Cibola. From that time on the hoofs of horses aided the procession of moccasined feet in inscribing the trail to the upper country even plainer.

The roving Apaches frequenting this passageway more and more soon held full sway. Their nomadic, aggressive and warlike tendencies made them the scourge of the Southwest from that time on until they were finally subdued around the end of the nineteenth century. The trail was an easy route of escape after depredation raids on the white settlers who came to the Southwest to build homes and communities on the fertile level lowlands along the Salt. The light of many a venturesome prospector went out with the thud of an Apache arrow in the Salt River canyons. Pursuit was touchy business, even for the trained Indian fighters of the U. S. Cavalry, for the wily Apaches blended into the maze of canyons to ambush hapless pursuers or to disappear completely. The Apache made a lasting impression on the white frontiersman. The history of Apache warfare is largely the history of Arizona, so there is little wonder that the route through this mysterious inner-fortress, infested with the ominous savages, became known as the Apache Trail.

By the twentieth century, with the Apaches tamed, the stone ancients of the rimrock had a new and strange act to observe in the peaceful canyon below. In 1906 the Federal Government cut sixty miles of wagon road from the west along the general route of the trail to the junction of Tonto Creek and the Salt River. At this location a great masonry dam was constructed, the first large government undertaking of this kind. The dam, named after President Teddy Roosevelt, was capable of backing up water from a drainage area of 5,760 square miles in a reservoir 23 miles long, covering nearly 18,000 acres. This was the forerunner of a chain of man-made lakes behind four dams on the Salt below Roosevelt. Where the old stone men of the mountains had looked down on seasons of dusty creek bed alternating with churning, roaring flood waters from cloud-bursts or sudden spring thaws, the cliffs now wore a chain of loosely strung, azygous pendants: blue-green lakes long and narrow, storing water for the cities and farmlands in the Valley of the Sun. The winding wagon road was widened, improved, andpushed on to the smelter area of Globe. The Apache Trail became one of the Southern Pacific Railroad's greatest scenic features of the Southwest. On a trip from the East to California travelers were encouraged to leave the comfort of the Pullman at Globe and enjoy the wonders of the Apache Trail on a two-day touring car trip to Phoenix with "experienced and careful drivers." There were the ancient cliff dwellings to visit, and many unusual rock formations and points of interest, to spur the imagination, such as The Pyramids, Flatiron Mountain, Eagle Rock, Old Woman's Shoe, Walls of Bronze, the latter are reddish-brown cliffs looming a thousand or more feet above the canyon floor with dull green patches giving the effect of aging bronze, Tortilla Flat, Hell's Canyon, Whirlpool Rock and the Superstition Mountains to name a few.

pushed on to the smelter area of Globe. The Apache Trail became one of the Southern Pacific Railroad's greatest scenic features of the Southwest. On a trip from the East to California travelers were encouraged to leave the comfort of the Pullman at Globe and enjoy the wonders of the Apache Trail on a two-day touring car trip to Phoenix with "experienced and careful drivers." There were the ancient cliff dwellings to visit, and many unusual rock formations and points of interest, to spur the imagination, such as The Pyramids, Flatiron Mountain, Eagle Rock, Old Woman's Shoe, Walls of Bronze, the latter are reddish-brown cliffs looming a thousand or more feet above the canyon floor with dull green patches giving the effect of aging bronze, Tortilla Flat, Hell's Canyon, Whirlpool Rock and the Superstition Mountains to name a few.

Today the Apache is a progressive, intelligent member of society in the Southwest: outstanding in his cattle-raising techniques and in many other fields. Today the Apache Trail is a highway: 79 miles of graded and partly hard-surfaced route that takes thousands of people each year through a scenic wonderland playground with its thousands of acres of fishing waters. It is the gateway to the pine-clad mountains of the Mogollon Rim country, and the dust that was once padded down by soft, silent hide moccasins and yuccafiber sandals along the lonesome trail is churned by the whirring wheels of autos. There are lunch and gasoline stops at the little village of Roosevelt by the dam, at Tortilla Flat and at the boat landings of the lakes.

Today the Apache is a progressive, intelligent member of society in the Southwest: outstanding in his cattle-raising techniques and in many other fields. Today the Apache Trail is a highway: 79 miles of graded and partly hard-surfaced route that takes thousands of people each year through a scenic wonderland playground with its thousands of acres of fishing waters. It is the gateway to the pine-clad mountains of the Mogollon Rim country, and the dust that was once padded down by soft, silent hide moccasins and yuccafiber sandals along the lonesome trail is churned by the whirring wheels of autos. There are lunch and gasoline stops at the little village of Roosevelt by the dam, at Tortilla Flat and at the boat landings of the lakes. Here in the land of spectacular scenery and legend the tourist unlimbers his camera. Here he picks up painted pottery shards, flint chips and points where they were dropped centuries ago. Here half-crouched he wanders through the low beam-ceilinged rooms of the well-preserved Tonto Cliff Dwellings and ponders over the metates and ancient implements about the floor, and the fingerprints in the hard mud-mortar where they were pressed something like eons ago. The soot he sees on the walls is from cook-fire embers that had already laid cold a half century before Columbus. Here he marvels at the massive oddly shaped cliffs and the raw scenery of Arizona's canyon and desert. With a touch of imagination he too may see the strange characters in the eroded faces of the bluffs. Here he meets firsthand the stately saguaro, and here he learns many legends of the Superstition Mountains, and here he might pull off the road a few hundred feet and visit abandoned gold claims or an operating mine.

This is the Apache Trail, highway out of the ages with something of the past and something of the present around each and every exciting turn. And the old stone men of the mountains sit silently against the sky and wait patiently to see what will happen next.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ESTHER HENDERSON AND CHUCK ABBOTT The picturesque mining community of Bisbee, Arizona, southernmost mile-high city in America, clings to the sides of Tombstone Canyon in the Mule Mountains. Bloody frontier history and the development of one of the richest copper mines in the country wove the pattern that placed Bisbee on the map. When the first pioneers entered the steep canyon they saw that nature had built two castlelike spires of grey granite that stand towering and majestic several hundred feet above what is now the west end of Bisbee's main street. These hardy men while looking for gold, silver and copper were constantly harassed by the vicious Apaches, and their discovery of the rich Copper Queen Mine and the ensuing struggle for power and wealth make the story of the town that is "different" worthy of the wildest fiction.

Even Bisbee's origin was contrary to other mining camps. The founder of the fabulous ore body was not a prospector but a government scout stationed at Fort Bowie. His name was Jack Dunn. With Lt. Rucker and a company of friendly Indian scouts, he entered Tombstone Canyon in