THE WESTERN BOOT

FEATURE BY WESTERN WAYS In the days of the Roman emperors, a girl could decorate her sandals with embroidery, jewelry, precious metals, cameos, and carved miniatures, but unless she was the wife of the emperor, or bore some other significant relationship to him, she would run afoul of a law that frowned upon aping one's betters. But there is no law to prevent an American girl's aping a cowboy and his western boots even though they are quite as definite a badge of caste and character as the sandals of Nero. When she makes up her wardrobe for a western vacation, she is perfectly free to take advantage of the great variety of colors, materials, and designs in which cowboy boots are available, and once she experiences the comfort they afford in the country to which they belong, she will also want them to be things of beauty and a source of pride. Since the possibilities for smart western outfits are practically unlimited and since the arrangement of colors, materials, and possibly even the boot design are entirely up to her, the assembling of a wardrobe becomes an exciting adventure as well as a step toward attractive appearance on her holiday. But unless she gives the matter careful consideration she will run into trouble, not with the law of an emperor but with the law of a much more durable authority, Good Taste. There are then dangers in this adventure just as there are dangers in any adventure. In fact there would be no such thing as an adventure if there were no dangers, and much of the fun of the thing comes from getting by them safely. But this particular adventure presents such unlimited possibilities that the dangers seem negligible by comparison.

To Easterners the ornamental top is one of the most distinctive features of the cowboy boot, even though colorful patterns and elaborate stitchings were not introduced until a comparatively recent year, 1916. But if, when the Easterner recovers from his astonishment at seeing them on grown men, he will analyze boot design, he will discover that ornamental patterns for the tops fall into two distinct categories, both capable of good use in a woman's wardrobe. The first pattern to be introduced to the western world over thirty years ago, and still a very popular one today, was stitched on a solid colored top. The second basic type of design came into use soon afterward and employed two or more leathers of different colors, the design being made by cutting it out of a piece of leather and then stitching that piece onto leather of another color which then showed through the cut-out. From these two basic techniques bootmakers have fashioned a great variety of patterns that can It can be had in any color combination that a buyer might want. But there is no good reason for sticking to ready-made designs prepared by the manufacturer and published in his catalog. If one has a flair for things artistic she may herself prepare a design based on a favorite brooch, pin, or bracelet, or she may create the entire design upon original ideas, giving due consideration to the rest of her outfit and to her own size, shape and complexion. But she must be on the lookout for the first two dangers to Good Taste: the Drab and the Gaudy.

A Western boot can be made of any soft leather suitable for other types of footwear. Most boots are made of calf, kangaroo, and kid, but alligator and suede are by no means rare. And not only can such a variety of leather be made up in any color that pleases the customer, but combinations of different kinds and colors may be used in the same pair of boots. Color or texture contrast may be provided by wing tips, by the tops themselves, or by the patterns for the tops. It is of course possible to use any two or even all three of these methods of creating contrast, but, like selecting a design, the choice should be made with reference to

the other parts of one's ensemble. At this point one must be on the lookout for the second pair of dangers to Good Taste: the Shoddy and the Ostentatious. When boots are being treated as part of a complete outfit they may be regarded as a basic item, as an accessory, or both, thus greatly enlarging the scope of their effectiveness. Boots can be made of the same material as a jacket that contrasts with blouse, skirt, and hat, or they may contrast with the jacket and harmonize with gloves, belt, and hatband. Or part of the boot may harmonize with the basic items and the rest of it with the accessories. It must be kept in mind, too, that western boots are made of soft material and are comfortable not only for riding and tramping but also for the old square dance on Saturday night. They are expected to be found not only on the mountain trails and along the arroyos but also in the parlors and dining rooms of exclusive ranches and fine hotels. And one pair of boots can be made to satisfy all these requirements and do it beautifully if one's entire wardrobe is properly planned for the purpose. But at this point one encounters the third couplet of dangers to Good Taste: the Careless and the Severe. It would be as difficult to specify all the possible arrangements that would be attractive as it would be to give a name to each bean in a carload. It is possible, however, to list the very few essentials of western dress and suggest the varieties of each one. To start from the topa big hat is necessary to protect one's head, eyes, and complexion from sun, wind, and rain, and may be had in black, white, or any color of the spectrum. A hat may be absolutely plain if the owner wishes it so, or it may have a hatband of cloth, leather, or beadwork. The cord that is used to hold the hat in place may be of cloth or leather and braided from materials of two or more colors, any one or all of which may contrast with the hatband or with the hat itself. A shirt or blouse may be of any sort sufficiently sturdy for