Crafts

The machine, nearly lord of all creation, has not conquered all in Mexico.

The craftsman, with agile hands, great artistry, and patience, has his respected place under the sun, and the quest of his products is one of the great pleasures of a Mexican journey.

The motorist, then, is advised not to pack his automobile with so much equipment that there will be no room for at least some of the attractive articles and goods that will tempt him in the colorful market places. Shopping in Mexico is fun and cheap.

Remember, first, the dollar is worth 12.5 pesos. Twelve and a half pesos can go a long way, if judiciously spent.

Remember, second, returning residents of the United States, who have remained in Mexico 48 hours or longer, Regardless of age, may bring in, duty free, articles not to exceed $200 in value, provided such articles are for their personal use, the use of their families or for gifts. All articles acquired in Mexico, by purchase or gift, must be declared in writing if the total value exceeds $100. This exemption is allowed only once in thirty days. However, an additional exemption on articles up to $300 has been granted tourists returning from Mexico who have spent twelve full days or more in the country, not including the day of departure or return. Total exemption for the average motorist taking an extended trip into Mexico would be $500. Sales slips on purchases should be retained to facilitate inspection at Customs offices on the U. S. Border. Nogales, Sonora, will first introduce the products of Mexican craftsmen to the visitor. There is displayed in the many shops of the city everything Mexico producesProducts from the potter's wheel are dried in the sun, glazed, hand painted and fired in the kiln; then they are ready for the display room.

One of the well-known crafts of Mexico is the art of working glass. Visitors are always welcome to the glass factory at Guadalajara. everything from glassware from Guadalajara to wood creations from Uruapan, from fine silver ware from Taxco to porcelains from Puebla. A get-acquainted shopping tour in this city is both entertaining and rewarding.

For those who prefer to see the craftsman at workand there is so little opportunity to do this now in this streamlined, assembly-lined age of ours-Guadalajara is the place to go.

This mile-high city of a half million souls is unique for a modern city in that its industry does not come within the realm of the smoke-stack-symbol of big industry. Here there are countless small manufacturing establishments devoted to the various crafts producing articles in the same way they have been produced for decades. Skilled artisans learn their trades from their fathers and they, in turn, pass their artistry on to their sons. Skill, pride and art show in their work. It is little wonder that travel brochures recommend a visit of these places as one of the outstanding travel pleasures offered by the city, and a shopping tour unlike that offered anyplace in the U. S. A.The tourist-who has now become a shopper-should avail himself of the services of a guide. A guide saves one time and he'll show one more than anyone could possibly see in a limited time and with a necessarily limited knowledge of the city.

A guide is an institution peculiar to Mexico. An explanation of his services should be made now. First, he is bonded and licensed by the Mexican Tourist Department (Dirección General De Turismo) and must have his credentials with him at all times. Only persons of good repute in the community are licensed. The guide speaks English and must have a thorough knowledge of all phases of the city and its life which might be of interest to the visitor. He acts as an authorized travel counselor and interpreter. His duty is to make one's visit as pleasant as possible. These bonded guides can be hired at any of the larger hotels in Guadalajara. Their services are quite reasonable.

One of the first places the guide will recommend for a visit is San Pedro Tlaquepaque (tlaw-kay-paw-kay), a suburb of Guadalajara, and a place famed for its pottery. From Tlaquepaque comes the finest pottery made in all of Mexico and here one can see skilled craftsmen at work in many of the small factories which make up the suburb's formidable industry. Many of these factories have their own display and sales rooms where one can window-shop to one's heart's content.

Guadalajara, too, is famed for its glassware. The glass factories are all located in one part of the city and here, again, a large industry is made up of many small parts. These factories welcome visitors. Skilled glass blowers take pleasure in demonstrating their art, and it is quite an art when some of the more intricate designs are created.

The Cities and Towns OF MEXICO'S WEST COAST HIGHWAY

Our sentimental journey down the West Coast of Mexico, from Nogales to Guadalajara, a distance of 1047 miles, is interesting in many ways. In another section of this issue the highway itself is discussed. Our concern now is the people and where they live. We cross three states-Sonora, Sinaloa, Nayarit-and end at the great capital city of a fourth-Jalisco.

We visit four of Mexico's state capitals-Hermosillo, Culiacan, Tepic, and Guadalajara. There are other cities which give us pleasure, and countless small towns and villages to attract our attention as we motor along. Our journey ends at Guadalajara because here ends that portion of Mexico's West Coast Highway which only in the past year or so has been brought to a sufficient standard of construction to make motoring easy and enenjoyable. The highway continues, of course, another 400 miles to Mexico City, but that portion of the highway was modernized many years ago. Our interest is mainly centered on that more or less isolated portion of Mexico -the West Coast-which the new highway is now introducing to so many travelers.

We start at Nogales-Arizona and Sonora-separated by a wire fence representing the International Boundary, a boundary not particularly difficult to cross. Nogales, Arizona (altitude 3,855 feet, population 6,153) has splendid hotels and motels, is well equipped for the important part it is taking and will take in an ever-increasing flow of international travel. Nogales, Sonora (population 15,422) is the northern terminus of the Southern Pacific of Mexico, and the northern terminus of Mexico's Federal Highway No. 15. The city is a trading center for northern Sonora and an important travel center. Its largest hotel, Fray Marcos de Niza, is modern in every respect.

Nogales, Sonora, boasts one of the finest restaurants in Mexico-the Cafe Caverna-built in a cave in a hill of solid rock. The colorful host, Demetrio P. "Jimmy" Kyriakis-native of Greece, veteran of the U. S. Army, citizen of Mexico-runs a restaurant the way one should be run and a meal at his Caverna is always a good way to start a trip, whether north or south.

The two border cities join together each Fifth of May to celebrate Mexico's national holiday, Cinco de Mayo. La Fiesta de Flores, as this celebration is known, is a happy occasion enthusiastically participated in by good neighbors.

Fifty-six miles south of Nogales is the historic town of Magdalena, the principal community of the Altar Valley, northern Sonora's rich agricultural area. In the