"89"

A giant artery of travel traverses the North American continent from Fairbanks, Alaska, to the Mexican-Guatemalan border. This 6,500 mile highway is the great vertical international route of the western hemisphere including the Alaskan highway, Canadian highway 2, U.S. 89 and Mexico's 15 and 190 (the Pan-American Highway). It embraces the romance, engineering feats and lore of the Al-Can and part of the Pan-Am Highways which build a solid friendship of good will and brotherhood between the three nations of North America.

That portion of the international highway, U.S. 89 from Piegan, Montana, to Nogales, Arizona, crosses our western country through some of its most naturally spectacular and historically romantic areas-from Rocky Mountain fastness to desert vastness. For this approximately 1,775 miles (612 of which are in Arizona) U.S. 89 is a fine highway built either through or within short mile distance of six National Parks and 16 National Monuments, each set aside and preserved by the federal government for the pleasure and enlightment of all people.

From the arctic permafrost flowers of Alaska to the near tropic flora density of Southern Mexico the route offers the traveling world a panorama of many of nature's and man's greatest accomplishments. To drive the entire length of this great highway would be a traveler's dream supreme. Each section has its charm and appeal, its scenic splendor and historic importance, its interesting cities and countrysides.

A quick description of this North American route in its entirety would start with its northern terminus at Fairbanks. For 266 miles the highway cuts through the Alaskan landscape, then turns southeastward for 2,000 miles through Canada via Whitehorse in the Yukon and into British Columbia to Edmonton with its nearby Elk Island National Park. Veering on southward toward the United States border, Canadian highway 2 follows beside the great Canadian Rockies and from Calgary, home of the famous Stampede each summer, it is a matter of a few miles, when one considers the beauty offered, to the great National Parks of Banff, Jasper, Yoho and Kootenay.

The Canadian highway continues southward through Macleod, site of the first Northwest Mounted Police post, and at the Canadian-United States border the route parallels the Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park, which combines across a friendship curtain the allure of Waterton Lakes National Park in Canada and our own mighty Glacier National Park.

Beginning at the border, U.S. 89 skirts the park, crosses Montana southeastward into Yellowstone National Park, and traverses the length of Grand Teton National Park and the Jackson Hole country in Wyoming, before touching in Idaho along the shores of Bear Lake. Utah offers many of its cities, including Salt Lake City with its Mormon Temple Square, the unique fascination of the Great Salt Lake, besides the grandeur of Bryce Canyon and Zion National Parks and three noted National Monu-ments-Timpanogos Cave, Capitol Reef and Cedar Breaks.

Arizona's segment of this mighty highway brings a wonderland of color and inspiration, frontier history and miraculous development, as the route bisects the entire length of the state. The longest highway within the Arizona borders, 89 holds within its reach both the North

HIGHWAY OF INTERNATIONAL GRANDEUR

and South Rims of the Grand Canyon and a total of 13 National Monuments created by the works of nature or the hands of man for posterity. For 612 miles the scenic route traverses high plateau, pine-forested and desert country, through the state's largest cities, Phoenix and Tucson, and joins with Mexican Highway 15 at Nogales. In Mexico the highway follows for more than 1,500 miles along the western coastline, noted for its fishing and resort locations and ancient civilization, before swinging toward the interior and Mexico City. Southward of the country's capital it is 876 miles along the Pan American Highway to the Guatemalan border. The great Pan-Am stretches onward to the capitals of Central and South America with extensive construction planned for completion this year to close some of the last major gaps in the nearly 18,000 mile highway system. When these gaps are finished the dream of driving from Alaska to Buenos Aires will become a reality. Along the Mexican Highway, our neighbor “south of the border” offers its most colorful scenery to interest and intrigue all travelers, its universities, health and resort locations and ancient Spanish background, not to omit the picturesqueness one finds in visiting a “foreign” country. To do justice to all of the scenic and historic landmarks found along the length of Highway of International Grandeur would take a book to describe—they all contribute momentously. Too, the infinite variety of peoples and customs adds to the colorful miles. The many Indian tribes, quaint cow towns, remote mining and logging communities, modern cities and unique isolated villages are all within the view on this tour of the continent. Each offers its share to the long panorama for the vacation and traveling pleasure of the world. In this gigantic picture Arizona is proud to have an important part. So positive of the international value of this route are a large group of Arizonans that they formed an 89'er International Highway Association several years ago. Through a program of “boosting the scenic route of the Americas,” the 89'ers have as their second, though equally important aim, the “cementing of intercity, interstate and international public relations.” The wholehearted support of Mexican officials, businessmen and organizations has been evidenced in joint meetings held so far, attended also by representatives from cities, states and provinces touched by the highway. In time the 89'er Association will encompass the entire length of countryside through which the route passes, and afford numerous services to those who travel these miles. Within Arizona's boundaries is found 10 per cent of the total length of this international highway system and more than one-fourth of the distance that is within the United States. U.S. 89 in Arizona was built at a total cost surpassing 38 million dollars with an annual maintenance of $450,000. Its construction through deserts and mountains has been merited by the vast traffic flow along its way, by the increasing number of tourists seeking Arizona's vistas, and by the population within the state, an estimated 300,000 optimum annually, that depends upon this route. Serving as the connecting link between Mexico and all northern states, U.S. 89 has a real part in the movement of motorists in this modern world on wheels. The highway's economic value in Arizona is inesti-

Mable in dollars. It is vital for the movement of produce, manufacturing and mining products within the state to the rest of the nation, as a tourist route and for the use of bus and truck lines to serve the public. Nor can one surmise in monetary amounts the aesthetic import and spiritual comfort offered by U.S. 89 to a multitude of travelers as well as Arizona residents through the natural grandeur that is brought within their reach. The state's motto-Ditat Deus, meaning "God Enriches"-is personified to its supreme heighth along this route.Ever-changing scenic vistas, a variety of climatic conditions with native flora and fauna, and an awakening of the possibility of such a variance are opened to the traveling public by "89." Probably few places afford the variation of plant life in such few miles. It offers a wealth of knowledge for botanists who come from throughout the world to explore and study the climatic range from Canadian alpine to tropic-desert. Soaring upward from 4,671 foot elevation at Fredonia, just within the UtahArizona line, the highway climbs to a high of 7,921 feet at Jacob Lake on the lofty Kaibab plateau, drops and rises over high desert and mountain landscape through Flagstaff and Prescott, dips suddenly to the lowest point of 1,092 feet at Phoenix, and then maintains a fairly consistent rise through the home of the cacti to 3,865 feet at Nogales. Within this altitude change of 6,829 feet is found the mountain and desert splendor for which Arizona is noted -presented to the world by Highway 89.

The highway enters Arizona, just 2.5 miles south of Kanab, Utah, into what is generally referred to as "The Strip," which is simply that northwest portion of the state lying north of the Grand Canyon. For many years before the Colorado and Little Colorado rivers were spanned by bridges, it was isolated from the rest of the state and was once claimed by Utah.

Fredonia, with a population of around 500, is a pioneer Mormon settlement, established in the 1880's, and just 3.5 miles inside the Arizona border. This is the largest community between the state line and Flagstaff, some 200 miles to the south on U.S. 89 and 66, though there are numerous smaller service centers and many points of intriguing interest between. To the right out of Fredonia, a distance of three miles over an unimproved road, one can gain his first introduction to Indian inhabitants of Arizona. Here is located the Kaibab (Paiute, "on the mountain") Indian Reservation of the Paiutes who are found in various locations in Arizona, Utah, Nevada and California. Moccasin, agency headquarters and center of the reservation life, is 15.8 miles further on and also reached by this road, just past the junction to Moccasin, is Pipe Spring National Monument, the first site set aside by the government that the travelers can visit from Highway 89.

From Pipe Spring one can continue west and then southwest over a somewhat primitive road to Tuweep (about 60 miles) and gain a view of the inner gorge of the Colorado River in Grand Canyon National Monument, lying westward of the National Park. Only local inquiry can determine the advisability of this trip depending on road conditions.

Back at Fredonia and Highway 89, the motorist continues southward for 30 miles through ever rising land into Kaibab National Forest to reach Jacob Lake, gateway to the north rim of the Grand Canyon and highest poised settlement along 89 in Arizona. It is a picturesque 44 miles from Jacob Lake through pines, aspens and mountain meadows replete with the famed Kaibab deer to the mighty chasm that has awed and thrilled millions throughout the world. Grand Canyon National Park, either north or south rim, needs no introduction-its spectacular splendor stands alone on this earth. Most adequate accommodations are available at Jacob Lake, Kaibab Lodge and at the North Rim where numerous types of service are offered by the Utah Parks company.

From Jacob Lake, 89 now brings the traveler through a rapid succession of majestic vistas. Then out of the pine forest of Kaibab plateau the road emerges to present a panorama of endless miles-miles of distant formations in the Vermillion Cliffs, pulsing desert and barren rock outcroppings. From the heighth of the plateau Houserock Valley stretches far below and it is here that the traveler receives his initial introduction to the vastness and expanse of Arizona scenery. Down in Houserock Valley, if one is fortunate, may be seen the great buffalo herd that is maintained by the Arizona Game and Fish Commission.

After descending the winding cliff road, through the small settlement of Houserock, Highway 89 traverses across far-reaching desert and ragged bluff country for 30 miles to reach the roaring Colorado River at Marble Canyon. Navajo Bridge, 834 feet long, is an inspiring engineering accomplishment that spans the chasm 467 feet above the muddy torrent. This is the only highway crossing of the river for 1,000 miles. From the village at Marble Canyon it is but five miles, via the old "dug way," to Lee's Ferry, the famous crossing point of the Colorado for the earliest pioneers who were stout-hearted to face the perils of a flatboat portage in the swift current.

Crossing the bridge one enters the Navajo Indian Reservation, largest in the United States, and for the next 75 miles southward will be seen many signs of the Indian inhabitants, the family groups, hogan dwellings, the sheep herds and gardens along the highway. The Indian color blends harmoniously into the subtle hues and strange formations of the Painted Desert through which the highway is built. Thirty-three miles from the Colorado River is the trading post, Cedar Ridge, and six miles farther on is The Gap from which a dirt side road leads some 20 miles eastward into the White Mesa country and to Kaibito, deep within the reservation interior.

The main road from Highway 89 into the Navajo and Hopi reservations, however, lies 25 miles farther south where one can turn to Tuba City, a main Navajo trading center and the western reservation headquarters with schools and hospital. Here within a few miles are seen a petrified forest, dinosaur tracks and balanced rocks. This road also leads onward to Tonalea where it branches into the reservation roads that bring two remote National Monuments-Navajo and Rainbow Bridge-before the admiring eyes of those travelers who will take the time and make the effort to include in their trips an intimate view into Indian life and of nature's grandeur. Far inside the reservation are roads that go to Shonto and to Kayenta, entrance to Monument Valley. Or from Tuba City and Moenkopi branches the road to the Hopi villages on their lofty cliffs. Since accommodations throughout the reservations are limited, advance inquiry is recommended. Returning to Highway 89, the route leads ten miles farther south to Cameron, built beside the "singing" suspension bridge that spans the Little Colorado River. There are good accommodations at Cameron, which is the eastern entrance to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. At Grand Canyon Village, 56 miles along the rim, the facilities including those of the Fred Harvey system are complete to meet all needs. From the South Rim one can continue southward to rejoin Highway 89 near Williams in an alternate loop. A return to Highway 89 at Cameron, however, is urged so that the opportunity of seeing three National Monuments will not be missed.

Twenty miles south of Cameron on 89 is Wupatki National Monument, once flourishing trading center of pre-historic Indians, now viewed as imposing ruins. The Citadel formerly was a fortified apartment house that expounds the engineering skill of these early people. Wupatki (Hopi, "big house") is a point of archaeological importance and will aid in understanding the ancient life of this vast area.

Another National Monument, Sunset Crater, is only 17 miles farther south. The crater is a mountainous 1,000 foot cone of cinders from the last eruption about a thousand years ago and the road approaching it leads past ice caves, lava beds, cinder dunes and formations of lava "squeeze-ups." The chance to examine an extinct volcano is worthy of attention.

To the westward of Highway 89, opposite Sunset Crater, looms the lofty summit of Humphreys Peak, 12,670 feet, the highest peak in Arizona and part of the impressive San Francisco Mountains that make Flagstaff a noted winter sports resort and affords cool summer days. Just east of Flagstaff, Highway 89 joins with U.S. 66. From this junction it is a short trip of nine miles to beautiful Walnut Canyon National Monument, with its Indian ruins found under overhanging ledges and surrounded by former cultivated crop areas. Nowhere else in the world can such varied creations by ancient man and nature, now preserved in three National Monuments, be found in so few miles.

Flagstaff, with its 6,895 foot elevation and population of 16,000*, is four miles west from the junction of High-ways 89-66. This flourishing town is the county seat of Coconino (Piñon, "nut people") county through which the tourist has traveled since entering Arizona on 89. Here against a backdrop of mountain splendor are found in-tensive lumber operations, Arizona State College at Flag-staff, famed Lowell Astronomical Observatory, and the Northern Arizona Museum with its noteworthy exhibits of Indian culture. From Flagstaff also is reached the Snow Bowl, main Arizona field of winter sports.

The all-Indian Pow-Wow is the outstanding summer attraction with members of many tribes gathering to present a program of dances and races each Fourth of July. Flagstaff is the center for a great amount of Indian trading and these early Americans can be seen on the streets in considerable numbers. The headquarters for the Coconino National Forest is in this city, as are numerous other governmental agencies.

Just to the west of Flagstaff two routes are available to the motorist. Highway 89 continues along with 66 through Williams to near Ash Fork and thence southward to Prescott, while 89 Alternate turns south and tours the Oak Creek-Verde Valley area, rejoining 89 just north of Prescott.

Climate Evaluation U. S. HIGHWAY 89 ARIZONA

BY CARL R. ERICKSON The northern half of this highway is through high mountain country, much of it timbered, and through a stretch of the Painted Desert at a slightly lower elevation. Jacob Lake at 7921 feet above M.S.L. is the second highest point on a U.S. designated highway in Arizona. During winter months temperatures on this northern portion of the highway approach lows equivalent to latitudes much further north. Short periods with temperatures of zero and below are experienced most every winter. Severe snowstorms, while not frequent, are to be anticipated. There is usually some snow on the ground from December through March. Adequate radiator protec-tion and chains for emergencies in ice or snow are "musts" for winter travel on 89 from Fredonia southward through Jacob Lake, and from Flagstaff to Williams, to Prescott.Summer weather in this area is cool with frequent thundershowers. Thundershowers in the mountain sections occur frequently during July and August. The period of the day most free of showers is from 7 a.m. to noon. An exception to this general weather is along the stretch from House Rock to Wupatki Junction, which is of desert characteristic. Here higher summer temperatures will be encountered and only about one-half the shower activity present in the northern mountain portions of U.S. 89.

South of Yarnell Hill to Tucson the elevation is considerably lower and a warmer desert climate is encountered. Winter temperatures are mild in this area and only a minimum of radiator protection is necessary. Winter rains are infrequent, occurring on the average on about one day in eight and snow is a rarity. Summers are hot through the central portions of "89." Temperatures over 100° are the rule from June through mid-September with temperatures of 105° and over encountered frequently. The thundershower season is from July to September. The frequency of summer showers increases as one approaches the southern boundary of the state on "89." Showers occur mostly during late afternoons and evenings. Occasional severe thundershowers are encountered on this portion of the highway although delays due to flash floods are infrequent and usually of only a few hours' duration.

From Tucson south to Nogales the elevation rises slowly, reaching almost 4000 feet near the Mexican border. Winter temperatures are cooler, although not severe. Moderate radiator protection is advisable for early mornings. The frequency of winter precipitation does not increase along this stretch although snow is occasionally encountered. Snow melts, usually in a few hours after falling, and presents no hazard to the careful driver.During summer, temperatures are hot and days over 100° frequent. The summer thundershower season is from late June to early September. Showers are frequent during July and August, being encountered almost daily at times. Occasional traffic delays due to flash floods occur during this period although these delays are temporary. Shower activity is at a minimum from about 7 a.m. until noon.

Strong southwest winds with blowing dust may become a hazard on the southern portion of this highway during the months February to June. This condition is extremely variable.

U.S. HIGHWAY 89 ALTERNATE

This alternate portion of U.S. 89 begins at Flagstaff and extends to Prescott via Oak Creek Canyon, the Verde Valley, and over Mingus Mountain to Prescott. In winter portions of this highway experience quite low temperatures. For this reason moderate radiator protection is necessary over this route. No specific weather records are available for the Mingus Mountain divide although winter temperatures near zero and snow are probable. In upper Oak Creek both moderate rain and snow occur in winter, depending on the temperature. The Verde Valley, at intermediate elevation, has mild winters with snow only rarely.

In summer, temperatures are warm in Oak Creek Canyon, occasionally hot in the Verde Valley, and cool over Mingus Mountain. Summer shower activity is frequent in July and August, showers occurring on about one day out of three. Showers are occasionally severe although traffic delays due to flash floods are infrequent. The dry season is May and June.

From Flagstaff, 89 courses through the great pine flats of the Coconino Forest, across the Arizona Divide to Belmont, site of the USA Navajo Ordnance Depot, and on to Parks where to the left one gains glances of a very beautiful meadow area often called Garden Prairie. Just two miles from Williams is the junction with State Highway 64 leading northward to the Grand Canyon of Arizona, only 59 miles away. This is the point at which one who has taken the tour of the Canyon from the junction at Cameron will return to 89. While the traveler who has followed the highway from the Utah border has already had two opportunities to approach the Grand Canyon (from Jacob Lake and Cameron) if not done prior should not pass this third opportunity to go for a never forgotten visit to the great wonder spot of the world.

The town of Williams is the center of vast lumbering, cattle and recreational activities and home of the Bill Williams Mountain Men, who annually grow beards and make a horseback trek from their mountain haunts to the Valley of the Sun in southern Arizona. Williams, a community of 4,000, is the second largest in Coconino County and headquarters for the Kaibab National Forest. It was named for the famous mountain scout whose memory the inhabitants seek to keep alive. A prominent mountain nearby bears his name as does a stream arising in the pinecovered heights.

Continuing westward from Williams, Highway 89 again traverses part of the Kaibab National Forest through the yellow pines, coming to a great opening at the top of the Ash Fork Hill that gives gives a perspective of many miles to north, west and south. Descending to the juniper covered plain, 89 turns to the south while 66 goes on to Ash Fork, Seligman, Peach Springs and Kingman, crossing roads that lead into the Havasupai and Hualpai Indian reservations. One road to the Havasupai's canyon-bound home leads out from Ash Fork but the only means of entering this remote paradise is by foot or horseback and arrangements must be made in advance for the bringing of the horses to the rim.

On 89 southward (53 miles to Prescott) one continues over juniper covered hills of limestone in Yavapai (“people of the hills”) county, into terrain heavily populated with deer and across the famous canyons of the pioneers, appropriately named Little Hell and Hell Canyons, because of the terrific difficulty involved in bringing freighting wagons across them. The hills give way to the wide spreading valley of Big Chino Wash. Beyond Paulden is a grove of

giant old cottonwoods to the left of the highway which marks the area of Del Rio springs, near which was located the first Arizona Territorial government for a few months in 1864. The capital was moved to Prescott later that year, later to Tucson, back again to Prescott, and finally established in Phoenix in 1889.

The highway now approaches the farms of Chino Valley, a prospering small farm area surrounded by vast cattle outfits, some of the oldest in Arizona. The farms are irrigated either by deep wells or from impounded waters of Lake Watson. Pinto beans, alfalfa and small grains are the principal crops and there is a growing community of semi-retired persons who are obtaining small home sites in a locality of comparative mild temperatures affording an opportunity for gardening and relaxation. Beyond the farms again are seen the grassed plains and waterholes that support herds of Hereford cattle. Too, this is truly the land "where the deer and antelope play" and small groups of pronghorns (there really are no true antelope native to America) may be seen browsing along the way.

In Granite Dells, 12 miles farther on, Highway 89 is rejoined by 89A just five miles north of Prescott. This junction occurs in one of the most unique areas in the region and the great granite formations are often likened to the Garden of the Gods in Colorado.

Highway 89A, which separates from 89 at Flagstaff, is the alternate route to Prescott and presents in less than 100 miles as great a variety of spectacular scenes as can be found anywhere in the world. From Flagstaff, the route turns southward through the Coconino Forest and in two miles reaches the road to Lake Mary and Mormon Lake and hence to the Long Valley road to the Mogollon Rim. Within three miles along 89A one notes the fences of old Fort Tuthill (for many years the summer camp for Arizona's National Guard and now the property of Coconino County) and then the route leads over a plateau of hills and canyons through some of the richest timber lands of Arizona to the brink of Oak Creek Canyon. At the top of the canyon is a very inviting Forest Camp and a lookout that gives a view worthy of stopping to behold. Below is seen the winding modern highway that leads down the walls of a box canyon to an enchanting luscious narrow valley of quiet and contentment.

Once down in the canyon the road parallels Oak Creek whose gurgling sounds make happy the heart, and in various camp grounds along the way are ample opportunities for picnicking, camping and fun. Within the steep canyon walls and tall trees and ferns the miles pass all too quickly, past great red buttes with little verdant farms and orchards nestling beneath them. Oak Creek is a haven for fishermen and the area affords some of the best trout fishing in Arizona.

Sedona, which has grown rapidly in recent years from a sleepy village to an expanding center for beautyloving permanent residents and artists, is situated at the mouth of the canyon where the full splendor of the lauded red rock formations is revealed. The color and awesomeness of Sedona's natural setting will hold the traveler in admiration for indefinite time-so much so that it seems brutal to disrupt that spell to describe other places along the highway.

From Sedona a side road leads across the creek, past the lodge that is headquarters for numerous movie companies that have and are using the scenic beauty for fascinating backgrounds and out into more open country

NOTES FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS OPPOSITE PAGE

BY JOSEF MUENCH. Tumacacori Mission, a few miles north of Nogales on U.S. 89, is a National Monument, picturesque landmark reminding us of yesterday's colonial Spain. Taken with a Linhof camera, with 6" Xenar lens, 1/10th second at f.20 on 4x5 daylight Ektachrome film. The photographer was intrigued by a great cloud pushing up above the old mission, emphasizing its lines and filling the sky.

FOLLOWING PAGES "SAN FRANCISCO PEAKS, ARIZONA"-BY JOSEF

MUENCH. Taken with Speed Graphic-6" Ektar lens on 4x5 daylight Kodachrome film. Exposure 1/25th second at f.11. A hike up the slippery 1000-foot slopes of Sunset Crater is well worth the effort-showing below black cinder dunes, extensive forest cover and the splendid and regal view of San Francisco Peaks-often with a snowy drape as they were on this spring forenoon.

"NAVAJO ENCAMPMENT NEAR '89' "-BY JOSEF

MUENCH. Speed Graphic, 6" Ektar lens, 4x5 daylight Ektachrome film. Exposure-1/10th second at f.22. Driving along U.S. 89 in Northern Arizona, the photographer saw a group of wagons and pickups nearby on a side road and couldn't resist investigating. Probably there for a "Sing." A number of Navajos were gathered there on the colorful desert and did not mind having their picture taken in their colorful blankets. U.S. 89 traverses a large portion of the Navajo Indian Reservation.

"CLOUDS OVER SUNSET CRATER"-BY C. F.

STOODY. Taken in Coconino County near Flagstaff, 3 o'clock in the afternoon in August immediately after a light shower. View camera, 4x5 Ektachrome film, 1/20th second at f.18. Great, billowy thunderheads of summer, sweeping in over the high plateau and mountain country of Northern Arizona, add majesty to the majestic scenery.

RAY MANLEY. Scene is west of Lee's Ferry in the heart of the Vermilion Cliffs and Marble Canyon. Aerial view made on 5x7 Anscochrome, 1/475th second at f.9, 8½ inch Schneider Symar lens, 5x7 Linhof camera, film processed for correct exposure and color balance. The bridge is a historic landmark on "89," being the first bridge ever built crossing the Colorado.

"THE GREEN FIELDS OF SAN XAVIER"-BY RAY MANLEY

RAY MANLEY. Historic San Xavier Mission, with Tucson Mountains in background, is near "89" not far from Tucson. 5x7 Ektachrome, 1/10th second at f.18, 5x7 Deardorff camera. Typical summer thunderheads rising fast requiring fast setting up of camera in pre-selected location staked out on previous scouting trip. San Xavier still serves the Indians of the area, who have been tilling the fertile land nearby for generations.

"LAND OF THE GIANT CACTUS"-BY JOSEF MUENCH

RAY MANLEY. Taken with a Linhof camera with 6" Xenar lens at 1/10th second at f.16 with 4x5 daylight Ektachrome film. Summer thunderclouds on an August afternoon, with the Saguaros standing in irregular ranks, made an irresistible subject, among Ocotillos and Prickly Pear cactus, spreading clear to desert mountains on the skyline.

"'89' THROUGH GRANITE DELLS"-BY RAY MANLEY

Granite Dells recreation area is a few miles north of Prescott on "89." Road has been widened to four lanes and is a beautiful and safer road. It is the dividing point for "89" and "89 Alternate" going through Jerome and the Verde Valley via Oak Creek to Flagstaff. The photographer wouldn't advise climbing on these rocks without crepe or rubber soles, especially with 30-pound camera equipment. Camera: 5x7 Linhof, 8½ inch Symar lens, 1/25th second at f.20, daylight Anscochrome, October.

"SPRING FRESHET SABINO CANYON" BY ESTHER HENDERSON

It is a wet spring, that is, when Sabino Canyon, near Tucson, was filled with water gushing from the Catalina Mountains. Here, camera and photographer were both in waist-high water but out of the main swirl of the stream. 5x7 Deardorff View camera, Ektachrome film, Goerz Dagor lens, 1/25th at f.11. Sabino Canyon is a popular picnic area for Tucson residents and visitors.

OPPOSITE PAGE "ETERNAL WATERS OF OAK CREEK"-BY ROBERT E. LINDHOLM

As Oak Creek comes tumbling down from the base of the Mogollon Rim, it forms quiet pools and gay little waterfalls. The photographer here portrays one of the loveliest spots in Oak Creek Canyon.

where individual red rock formations loom high in the near distance. It is 15 miles to Montezuma Well, site of pre-historic ruins and a vast irrigation system, and onward nine miles to Montezuma Castle National Monument, outstanding for its lofty dwelling of five stories nestled against a high cliff. Misnamed for the famous Mexican Indian Chief Montezuma, who never saw the location, the structure of mud and timber is described better as a fortified apartment house rather than a castle. Extensive farmMining was carried on by these pre-historic dwellers before some undetermined peril forced them to leave.

Just beyond the junction with the road that had led from Montezuma Castle the traveler gains a sweeping view of the fertile Verde Valley with its towering cottonwood trees and irrigated farms along the Verde River, a main tributary of the Salt River. By looking carefully along the mountain range that looms ahead one should be able to discern the famous mining town of Jerome, clinging precariously to the steep slope, some miles distant to the right.

Cottonwood, trading center for the Verde residents, is a prospering community with beautiful shade trees about five miles from the bridge crossing. Its near neighbors are the old mining town of Clemenceau, named for the great French statesman, and the copper smelting city of Clarkdale, whose residents today await further development for utilization of the dormant smelter facilities.

Tuzigoot National Monument, two miles from Clarkdale, is an uncovered hilltop village of early age that discloses the intricate pattern of rooms and fortifications so vital for survival in that era. An interesting museum presents graphic evidence of the pre-historic culture of the settlement.

Clarkdale, named for Senator W. A. Clark, developer of Jerome, is a stereotype company town built by the United Verde Copper company in 1911 to house the smelter workers. From Clarkdale's altitude of 2,568 feet, Highway 89A begins a rapid climb up Mingus Mountain to Jerome, named for the grandfather of Winston Churchill. In six miles the highway soars upward to Jerome's 5,435 foot elevation and winds in unique fashion through narrow cobble-stoned streets. Now Arizona's most noted "ghost city," Jerome with its its vastly interesting museum of mining development, continues to slip down the mountainside, although its greatly decreased population of a few families from the peak of 15,000 people in 1929, steadfastly maintains its firm grip on the deeply tunneled site. The view from Jerome alone would induce many to hang on forever.

Old mining operations are revealed along the highway as 89A climbs upward from Jerome over Mingus Mountain to a high of 7,029 feet through thick pine country.try and side meadows. Dropping down from the summit the route emerges into Lonesome Valley, with its farreaching cattle range and the likely glimpse of pronghorns. Across the valley can be seen Granite Dells, where 89A rejoins 89, and the mountains that surround Prescott, 26 miles from Jerome.

Leaving Granite Dells one will see Lake Watson on the left from which the water is taken by open canal to the farms in Chino Valley. The impressive buildings grouped on the outskirts of Prescott house the Whipple Veterans Administration Center. This modern hospital is located on the site of the old frontier military establishment of Fort Whipple, once headquarters for the great Indian fighter, General George Crook, and many others of national fame. Beyond Whipple is the junction with Highway 69 that leads to Phoenix via Dewey, Humboldt, Mayer, Rock Springs and New River through an area rich in early mining lore.

Prescott, the "mile-high city" of Arizona, has more territorial history than probably any other location in the state. Established in 1864 as the first capital of the Territory of Arizona, this area had been the scene of rich gold mining before Fort Whipple was built to house the first government and give protection from the Indians. The original Governor's Mansion and the subsequently established Sharlot Hall Museum, founded by Arizona's beloved late poetess laureate, are focal points to portray the log cabin buildings of by-gone years and the mementos of that era.This modern town, with a trade area population of 14,000, also has the Arizona Pioneer's Home, where long-time residents of the state can spend their last days in congenial comradeship, is surrounded by numerous camps and resort locations testifying to its importance as a summer vacation spot, and is home of the Smoki People, local businessmen and women who in early August present the Smoki Ceremonials in which Indian dances and traditions are authentically depicted. Prescott, home of the first rodeo, carries on this tradition for three days each Fourth of July with a big Frontier Days celebration. Noteworthy also are the Smoki Museum, the courthouse of classic Grecian lines in a tree shaded plaza, Solon Borglum's statue "The Roughrider" commemorating the Spanish War company organized here to follow Teddy Roosevelt at San Juan Hill, and the many churches which are among the oldest of Protestant heritage in this last frontier state of the union.

The county seat for Yavapai county, Prescott is the shopping center for vast miles of ranching and farming areas as well as a newly increased interest in mining activities throughout the mountain region.

Leaving the town, Highway 89 rises immediately into ponderosa forest land, winding through what is known as "The White Spar" and dropping down into Kirkland and Peeple's valleys, large cattle sections, and then to Yarnell, 34 miles distant, which is a cool summer hiatus for Salt River Valley residents and a growing community. In Yarnell a sign points to the Shrine of St. Joseph, one mile off the highway, where almost life size statues depict events in the life of Jesus. From the top of Yarnell Hill

the highway descends rapidly along the mountainside dropping close to 2,000 feet in eight miles and affording endless views of the spreading desert below.

Congress Junction, once a center of mining and ranching importance, is the junction with Highway 71 (Aguila cutoff) that angles southwest toward Highways 60-70 and hence to the west coast. This area presents a most interesting variety of desert flora and a side road leads to a picturesque Joshua forest. However, Highway 89 continues on from Congress Junction, crossing the Maricopa county line, to Wickenburg, dude ranch capital of the world and famous for its western atmosphere. With an altitude of 2,076 feet and population of 3,000, Wickenburg offers a full program for its winter guests with almost weekly rodeos at various dude ranches, the annual Los Cabelleros and Los Damas horseback rides, the Easter on Horseback desert sunrise service, and tops its activity each spring with the Gold Rush Days celebration. The town's early history is linked with fabulous mining ventures and much of its legend hinges on the Hassayampa River flowing through the town. 'Tis said that those who drink from its waters never again can tell the truth.

In this interesting and colorful town, Highway 89 joins with Highways 60-70 as one route for a 100 mile stretch, through Phoenix and on eastward to Florence Junction before 89 turns southward toward Mexico. The road toward Phoenix from Wickenburg leads along the Hassayampa River and over a typical desert terrain which brings the southbound traveler the first glimpse of the transformation of desert cultivation for which the Salt River Valley has skyrocketed in importance. Cotton, alfalfa and vegetable fields extend far to the right and left.

In the winter there are many pastures filled with cattle and sheep for feeding.

At Morristown, 11 miles below Wickenburg, is a junction to the left that leads to the well-known Castle Hot Springs area in Hieroglyphic Mountains. This trip of 21 miles is one of the most spectacular in central Arizona. Beyond Morristown, 89 passes through the desert center of Wittman, to Beardsley, the division point between desert and cultivated land, on across the Agua Fria River, dry at this point because its water is stored behind Carl Pleasant Dam in the far purple mountains. Now the communities come in closer sequence, Agua Fria, Marinette and Peoria, on through Glendale from which leads a main road to Luke Air Force Base, Litchfield Park, location of Goodyear's experimental farms, and other of the northern Salt River Valley communities. From Glendale the next nine miles are in greatly increased traffic indicating the approach to the hub of Arizona's business and political life-Phoenix.

The state's rapidly-growing capital city, Phoenix (named for the phantom bird that arose from the ashes) is a happy combination of spreading industrialization and relaxed desert resort living. In the heart of a vast produce farming area, the city is Arizona's largest and offers a full calendar of urban attractions and events, along with many uniquely western activities such as its rodeos, fairs, gold treks and pioneer reunions. There is always much going on and each year sees new activities added. However, not everything in this great city is seasonal and every visitor should make an effort to see the city and its environs. The Capitol with its paintings and museum in the Archives should be seen; the fine city library at the Civic Center is worthy of a visit as are South Mountain and Papago Parks, the Historical Society and Heard Museums, the Art Center and such other places as Sky Harbor, one of the busiest airports in the United States. Baseball teams of the National and American Leagues hold their spring training at Phoenix and other cities of Southern Arizona with the warm-up series of games enthusiastically supported.

Pueblo Grande Ruins, home of the ancient Hohokam who were the original irrigation farmers in this area, is located on the eastern outskirts as one leaves Phoenix to continue along Highway 89. Before reaching Tempe, 16 miles away, is Papago State Park with its cactus and botanical gardens, picnic areas and natural stadium. Arizona State College at Tempe highlights the activity of this town of 15,000 population, which is the center also for a vast farming area that flourishes along the Salt River. Tempe's history goes back to 1870's with its origin as a trading post and ferry crossing over the river. The University of Arizona Experiment Farm is located about three miles away. Six miles along Highways 89-60-70 is Mesa, settled by Mormon pioneers and location of the Arizona Mormon Temple, spiritual center for the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints in the state. The Temple is surrounded by acres of gardens with perhaps the most extensive landscaping found anywhere in Arizona. Tours of the garden are conducted each day from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. with more than 100,000 visitors annually. The Mesa population of 32,000 (still based on the trade area figures) is largely engaged in produce and citrus farming, mill and packing house operations. Like all Mormon communities, the city was planned in its beginning with wide boulevards which even today in the increased flow of traffic are sufficiently wide.

During the 17 mile drive from Mesa to Apache Junction are found extensive farming areas, cultivated fields and groves, all fed by water from behind Roosevelt Dam. At the junction state Highway 88 turns northward-the famous Apache trail route that presents unsurpassed scenic views, Tonto National Monument and Roosevelt Lake. The main highways angle southeastward with the famed Superstition Mountains and their sought-after Lost Dutchman mine looming high to the left. The mountains' strange formations, resembling human figures on many of the peaks, and their foreboding secretiveness have inspired many of the state's most widely known legends which today entice hundreds to seek for lost treasures.

Florence Junction, 17 miles away, is the dividing point for the highways, with 89 turning southward. However, 12 miles eastward on Highways 60-70 is the Boyce Thompson Southwestern Arboretum with its tremendous collection of desert flora. These spectacular gardens definitely merit the short sidetrip. Along Highway 89 from Florence Junction the route is built through interesting desert landscape where varied cacti can be seen in all sizes, shapes and colors. In the springtime, the cacti blossoms are magnificent. An historical boundary is observed with the crossing of the Gila River which until the Gadsden Purchase in 1853 marked the border between Arizona and Mexico. The river today is primarily a dry, sandy wash with its waters impounded behind Coolidge Dam, many miles eastward.

Florence, the county seat of Pinal County, is reached in another 17 miles. Located amid colorful desert moun-tain surroundings, the town of 3,200 population blends into its background with many adobe structures. This is the site of the Arizona State Prison and within this county has been a fast developing cotton empire, rapidly chang-ing the entire economy and increasing the population. Florence itself is on the northern edge of this new devel-opment but is the nucleus for considerable economic in-crease. Eight miles west from Florence is Casa Grande National Monument, one of the best preserved of the an-cient adobe structures, with a four-story watch tower topping well-defined ruins.

Also from Florence is a second class improved road leading to Kelvin, Hayden, Winkleman and Christmas, important mining areas, then on to Mammoth, past the junction to San Manuel, Arizona's newly-built mining community, and on to Oracle to rejoin Highway 89 at Oracle Junction, just 42 miles southwest of Florence. From Oracle Junction to Tucson, a distance of 24 miles, the road skirts the Coronado National Forest, center for much of Tucson's outings and winter sports area. Near-ing the city are to be seen many fine desert homes and estates. This has long been a mecca for Americans from the harsher climes and many very famous names are con-nected with the ownership of homes in this region.

Tucson, meaning water at foot of black mountain, is Arizona's second largest city with an area population of 185,000 and one of the state's oldest settlements dating back to Mexican pueblo days. It is a beautiful desert city (elevation 2,389 feet) affording much in history, culture, amusement and an excellent warm winter climate. The county seat of Pima County, Tucson is the site of the University of Arizona with its many student activities. Within easy reach for the traveler are the grounds and buildings on the campus, the Pioneer Historical Society Museum, ruins of Old Fort Lowell, Old Tucson (rebuilt movie sets) and Tucson Mountain Park with its Desert Museum.

Davis-Monthan Air Base is nearby and Tucson itself has become the center for considerable development in the airplane industry and is destined to be a major point in the growing network of plane routes to various Mexican and South American cities. Other industries continue to locate in this city increasing its importance as a metropolis.

Most unusual scenic attraction around Tucson, of course, is Saguaro National Monument, just 17 miles to the east, where a large area has been set aside to preserve a forest of these giant cacti. The largest cactus in the United States, growing to heights from forty to sixty feet, the Saguaro's waxy white blossom is the state flower. Only in this area can one see mile after mile of the tower-ing plants with their arms reaching to the heavens.

From Tucson, Highway 89 heads directly southward to Nogales and the Mexican border, a distance of 67 miles. This entire area is replete with history of early Arizona. Here crossed and recrossed the trails of the Spaniards and here the Apache made history even before the Spaniards came. Still later Americans filled these pages of history with feats of daring and courage that give vital heritage to this ever changing land-modern yet with strands of ancient threads joined in the woven pattern of the life today.

Within view just beyond the junction with Highway A few hours out of the pines in Northern Arizona, "89" introduces the Arizona desert.

Way 80 is the U.S. Veterans Hospital, another of the fine facilities maintained in Arizona. At a point some six miles from Tucson is the road leading to Mission San Xavier Del Bac two miles away. Established in 1700 the Mission is conceded to be the most beautiful mission structure in the Southwest, and is located within the San Xavier Reservation of the Papago Indians.

Highway 89 continues south past several small communities-Saharita, Continental and Amado, to another side road leading one-half mile to Tubac. Now a cluster of mud-colored adobe houses, Tubac is the oldest Spanish settlement in Arizona and once the center of activity for the entire region. Just three miles from Tubac is Tumacacori National Monument, one of the finest of the early Spanish missions established in rich silver surroundings. Believed to be built on the site of a mission or rancheria visited by Father Kino in 1696, Tumacacori is the Papago Indian word meaning "white stone bending over."

A short distance below Calabasas one passes the old Pete Kitchen ranch which was the stronghold of resist-ance against the Apaches in early days. Here lived Pete Kitchen, the man the Apaches could not dislodge, although the Indians put so many arrows into his pigs that they looked like pin cushions. However the number of bullets that Kitchen and his family and workers put into Apache bodies was also one of considerable quantity. The old home still stands as a worthy pioneer monument.

The highway now approaches the valley settlements that mark the nearness to Nogales-a city that is divided by a fence on the international border. No one thinks alone of one Nogales-it is Ambos Nogales. The two cities with their altitude of 3,865 feet, number a trade area population of some 30,000 persons; the Arizona city is about 9,000.

The narrow canyon between the surrounding brown hills in which these two border cities are situated was an early Spanish pass and was used as a shortcut from the El Camino Real between Guaymas, Sonora and Tucson. The name meaning walnuts was taken from the grove of black walnut trees within this pass. Here, in 1880, Jacob Isaac-son erected a trading post and rest stop on the American side for passengers traveling the Tucson-Guaymas stage. While everything is quiet now at this largest port of entry from Mexico into Arizona, the period from 1897 to 1918 saw many frenzied days of border skirmishes and international tension. Such famous Mexican names as Obregon, Cabrel and Pancho Villa are recorded during that time. Because of its unique location Nogales is the entry point for much Mexican trade and the large imports of winter vegetables, especially tomatoes, that come from northwestern Mexico. On both sides of the border there are interesting shops, but it is on the Mexican side that most American tourists spend their hours while in the area. Here in this “Sonoran community vibrant with Mexican life” are the quaint hillside homes and shops of a happy and friendly people with scheduled bull fights an unusual attraction. Located in a cattle and mining region, Nogales, Arizona, is a thriving community that combines the bustle of a county seat (Santa Cruz county, the state's smallest in area) and the federal activities involved with a port of entry. Cattle and Mexican produce keep the railroad yards humming with the freight that is shipped from there. The year-round climate of Ambos Nogales promotes special celebrations in all seasons. Both the American and Mexican national holidays are observed by the people of both towns with the Cinco de Mayo Fiesta (Mexican Independence Day) probably the most colorful. Nogales, Arizona, thus is the doorway through which the Highway of International Grandeur leaves the United States into the coloquial charm and fascination of Mexico. The mighty highway of three nations completes its magic way in the land of manaña. From the frozen north to the tropic south each mile offers the traveler unforgettable portraits of nature's splendor and man's energic accomplishments. In this long cavalcade of roadside allurement Highway 89 in Arizona can claim its impressive share. Visitors from near or far will receive a hearty greeting-at the Utah state line and the Sonora border. There will be a warm “welcome to Arizona” and a sad “adios amigos.”