The Trailblazers of Grand Canyon

BY CHARLES FRANKLIN PARKER WITH JEANNE S. HUMBURG Early tourists to the Grand Canyon of Arizona were hardy folks who roughed it to gain a soul filling experience. Their glowing reports ultimately brought millions to the two rims of the greatest of nature's canyons.

Today's caravan of travelers finds-and quite casually expects-a combination of modern facilities and gracious persons making the visits comfortable as well as inspiring. Yet behind this superb "serving of the public" lies a story of great romantic adventure, individual initiative and group endeavor that began just seventy years ago. Legend and fact intertwine in the record of the beginnings. Names and feats produce a theme of enterprise ever colorful and colossal like the backdrop of the giant chasm of mountains and valleys.

Early in the 1880's, before other than Indian trails were developed into the Canyon from the South Rim, the first tourists arrived and their enthusiasm set the pattern for the millions of travelers who have since viewed the colorful panorama. Members of the Edward Everett Ayer family of Chicago and Flagstaff probably were the initial sightseers for their trips in 1883 and 1884 coincided with the building of the Santa Fe and 'Frisco railroad across Northern Arizona which established towns in the vast frontier. Until the railroad pushed westward from Winslow in 1881, following the original survey of the Atlantic and Pacific line, there were only minute settlements, mere stopping points along the main wagon road to California, where the thriving towns of Flagstaff, Williams and Ashfork now stand.

Ayer, a capitalist from Chicago, learned of the Canyon shortly after he built the first big sawmill in Flagstaff in 1881 to provide the ties and lumber needed for the railroad construction. The description Philip and William Hull, sheep and cattlemen on the Coconino Plateau, gave of the awesome splendor inspired Ayer to journey to the South Rim and like Canyon visitors today he immediately wanted all of his family to see this natural wonder. The following year, in May 1884, a second trip was planned with Bill Hull as guide. In his "Reminiscences" Ayer said "we took two wagons, with six mules each, for supplies, a six-mule wagon for water, an ambulance for the ladies, several riding horses and about 20 men." When a trip into the Canyon was contemplated, Mrs. Aver insisted on accompanying the men, and was the first white woman to climb down into the gorge before trails were built. The perilous descent was made with ropes and for Mrs. Ayer's courage and agility a mountain to the right of Hance Canyon was named Aver Peak in her honor. The Ayers' trips and the great enthusiasm they voiced undoubtedly began the climbing spiral of public travel which last year brought almost three-quarters of a million people to see the mighty chasm. It is interesting to note that later in his life Ayer served as president of the Field Columbian Museum in Chicago, as a director of the Art Institute in that metropolis, and gave to the Newberry Library one of the most complete collections in the world on the history of the North American Indian.

Long before the Ayers' journey, however, many others had seen the Grand Canyon, but only a few are names in history books. The first to know of its existence must have been the cliff dwellers who made the brilliant gorges their home. Close to 500 archaeological sites indicate the dwellings of this prehistoric race existed in 1200 A.D.

From time immemorial the Indian tribes that reside throughout Northern Arizona and Southern Utah have known of the great chasm and its wondrous ways. The trails into the Canyon which explorers and adventurers were later to use were Indian trails following the original animal paths. Indian Gardens seen from Bright Angel Trail is proof that some early tribes found a livelihood within the depths, and the Havasupai Indians continue today to make their home in Cataract Canyon, the only tribe residing within the park boundaries.

Just forty-eight years after Columbus came to the new world the first white men stood at the South Rim. In 1540 Garcia Lopez de Cardenas and twelve other Coronado Conquistadores came upon the Canyon while seeking the fabled seven cities of Cibola. This was an historic event of continuing significance to the Southwest, because as M. R. Tillotson and Frank J. Taylor wisely disclose in their book, "Grand Canyon Country," "the Grand Canyon was the first of the great American natural wonders now preserved as national parks to be discovered by white men."

No further mention of the Canyon is made until 1776 when both Padre Garces and Padre Escalante reached its rims. In the detailed diary of his trip across Northern Arizona, Padre Garces named the river, "Colorado," and where Padre Escalante spanned the river at the Old Ute Ford near the head of Glen Canyon henceforth was called the "Crossing of the Fathers."

Probably the first Americans to see the Canyon region were fur trappers who pushed into the western mountains. James O. Pattie and his father, Sylvester, mountainmen and trappers of great courage, searched for beaver up the Colorado river in 1825 and journeyed eastward along the South Rim. According to Tillotson and Taylor, "theirs is the first recorded trip along either rim." What James Pattie thought of the mighty chasm was definitely uninspired, for like all others in that region water was a prime concern. He wrote of "the horrid mountains which cage it (the river) up, as to deprive all human beings of the ability to descend its banks and make use of its waters."

Throughout the early 19th century many other pioneer men of the West came to the area-brave individualists who sought their fortunes in the mineral wealth of the region and the fur animals to be trapped. They often followed Indian guides over the faint trails, but more frequently traveled alone seeking a livelihood amidst the Canyon's walls and forests. There is a definite possibility that Jebediah Smith and Bill Williams, frontiersmen and mountaineers of importance in the Southwest's development, were also among the early ones to view the chasm.

Indirectly the United States government gave its initial recognition to this great natural wonder in the 1850's. Lieutenant A. W. Whipple, on a topographical survey of the western wilderness in 1854, followed the lower Colorado river as far north as the mouth of Diamond Creek many miles below the park area, and in 1858 the War Department ordered Lieutenant enant J. C. Ives to explore the swift river more thoroughly. His purpose was to find if possible a cheap water route to supply the isolated military posts in New Mexico and Utah and avoid the long, costly overland hauls through dangerous Indian territory. While proving that the river was commercially unnavigable, Ives' exploration also added another chapter to the white man's ingress into the country for the first scientific explanation and description of the Canyon was brought out by Dr. John Strong Newberry, a member of the party and one of the outstanding geologists of that century.

Soon after the Mormons chose the Utah fastness for their home in 1847, they too learned of the colorful chasm and brought the first cattle into the North Rim areathose of the tithing herds. Besides utilizing the Kaibab meadows and grasslands, they were the first to envision a practical crossing of the Canyon to reach the southern part of Arizona. To accomplish this the Mormons became the first white men to improve any of the old Indian trails and their pioneering deeds are of great import in the area's history.

Between 1858 and 1871 Jacob Hamblin, noted scout, trailblazer and Mormon apostle, made ten crossings of the Grand Canyon into the Navajo-Hopi land and other points along the rim. At the request of Brigham Young, Hamblin made his first expedition in the vain hope of proving a rumor that the Hopi language contained certain Welch words-words believed learned from a group of Welchmen who had disappeared in that area many years before. Although that rumor could not be verified, Hamblin's reports kindled a deep interest in the land across the Canyon and also brought out the first information of the famous Hopi snake dance.

On several trips Hamblin used the Old Ute Ford, at another time crossed the river straight south of St. George, and in 1869 made use of the crossing at the mouth of the Paria Creek where it joins the Colorado many miles east of the Canyon country. This was the crossing site where

John D. Lee settled in 1872, the famous Lee's Ferry location and site of the old "Colorado Dug-way."

In spite of the high adventure and courage in the story of James White, it was Major John Wesley Powell who carved an historic place for himself in the scientific and equally perilous trip he and nine others undertook down the Colorado river through the gorge. Their story is that in 1867 White, in company with Captain Baker and Henry Strole, was attacked by Indians while working the gold fields in Western Colorado, that these men retreated down a canyon of the Green River and took to the current on a hastily built raft. Baker was killed by the Indians and Strole was swept from the raft in the rapids, but White miraculously survived. After great hardships and with tremendous endurance, White reached Callville below the Canyon September 8th, fourteen days later and 550 miles from where the raft had been built.

In spite of the high adventure and courage in the story of James White, it was Major John Wesley Powell who carved an historic place for himself in the scientific and equally perilous trip he and nine others undertook down the river in 1869. The three-months' survey made by this group from Green River, Wyoming, through the rapids and falls of the canyon-bound river to the smooth waters of the lower Colorado, still emerges today as a feat of unprecedented valor and determination. In the following years, Powell, later director of the United States Geological Survey, returned many times to the Canyon, for another trip on the river in 1877 and for a systematic exploration of its gorges and rim areas. It was he who first called this great wonder-Grand Canyon, and also gave us the beautiful naming of Bright Angel Creek. In 1882 he directed work on the first government trail, leading from the North Rim down Nankoweap Creek, so further geological study could be made.

By the early 1880's when the advent of tourist travel began with the memorable trips of the Ayer family, prospectors and mining men had located rich mineral deposits within the Canyon, and were successfully prov-ing their claims. The names of Ashurst, McClure, Mar-shall, Hance, Boucher, Rowe, Berry and Cameron-all recall men of pioneer fortitude who arrived at the Canyon to seek their fortunes in its wealth. Many other of these early mining men, active during those years, are today unknown but each has a well-earned place in the chron-icle of human endeavor at the Canyon. They were the giants of our race, the valiant ones who pushed ahead not faltering in the face of hardships. Outstanding among those pioneers was Captain John Hance, the first host to tourists at the mighty chasm, of whom William O. "Buckey" O'Neill, famous Rough Rider and early min-ing man, commented, "God made the cañon, John Hance the trails. Without the other neither would be complete."

to seek their fortunes in its wealth. Many other of these early mining men, active during those years, are today unknown but each has a well-earned place in the chronicle of human endeavor at the Canyon. They were the giants of our race, the valiant ones who pushed ahead not faltering in the face of hardships. Outstanding among those pioneers was Captain John Hance, the first host to tourists at the mighty chasm, of whom William O. "Buckey" O'Neill, famous Rough Rider and early mining man, commented, "God made the cañon, John Hance the trails. Without the other neither would be complete."

Hance first saw the Canyon in 1883 while on a prospecting tour; he admired it and stayed until his death in 1919. On his homestead, sixteen miles east of the present Grand Canyon Village, he erected the first building on the South Rim, a log cabin at the head of his trail leading to his copper and asbestos claims. Hance's trail was the first privately-built route into the colorful gorge and down its narrow path the early tourists that followed the Ayers were to enjoy the full magnitude and depth of the Canyon.

When visitors began to arrive, Hance welcomed them to his homestead where they pitched their tents around his cabin. In 1886 he advertised himself in the Flagstaff newspaper, The Arizona Champion, as a guide to tourists, and though his accommodations were rough and limited, countless persons responded. They were drawn by a newly-awakened interest in the Canyon, by Hance's congeniality as a host and by his widening fame as a storyteller (ARIZONA HIGHWAYS, June 1949). As more visitors arrived each year, Hance erected another log building to serve as a dining hall and kitchen. Scattered under the pines within a stone's throw of the rim was a tent city, with small single tents for the ladies and a large dormitory-type tent for the men. Travelers knew none of the superb accommodations people find today but did share with equal rapture the splendor of the Canyon spread out before them.

Richard E. Sloan in "Memories of an Arizona Judge," wrote of his first visit to the South Rim when he stayed with Hance. "Strange as it may now appear," Judge Sloan wrote, “comparatively few people had then seen the Canyon. Hance kept a book in which visitors were expected to write their names with such comments as they cared to make regarding their impressions of the Canyon. In looking over this book I was struck by the fact that more than half of those whose names appear in it were from foreign countries. Many of the names were those of men distinguished in science and literature.” In addition to a certain knowledge of the geological development and mineral wealth of the Canyon, Hance had a fascinating collection of Indian legends and his own flair for tall tales about the region. It is said that he had many story versions of the making of the chasm, varying from the continuous scratching of small ground squirrels to the fabled Scotchman digging for a lost penny. When incredulous guests inquired about the terror and distance of the descent to the river, they might draw from Hance the comment that his 80-year-old mother walked down each Monday morning to fetch water for the weekly wash. Some of the Hance stories are now added to the earlier legends of the Indian story-tellers, and while not accurate are often more colorful than the factual accounts given by the present day Park naturalists.

Hance spent his summers on the Rim entertaining his Canyon guests, but in October he closed his cabin since early travel was strictly a warm-weather event. Astride his mule and driving his cattle before him, he descended his trail into the gorge where his stock found ample browse at that lower altitude. From his pitched camp Hance set forth on daily explorations of new wonders. His findings were valuable additions to a growing knowledge of the Grand Canyon, and like his commercial development for tourists was the start of services so enlarged today. A cabin that Hance built, now owned by the National Park Service, still stands on the site of his original homestead, the most historic building in the Park.

During the 1880's a number of other men came into prominence in the establishment of guest accommodations. P. D. “Pete” Berry and W. W. Bass were men whose driving initiatives and love of the Canyon broughtthe awesome panorama within the reach of the traveling world.

Berry settled on the South Rim just a few miles west of John Hance and in 1889 built a temporary cabin at Grand View Point, a majestic promontory commanding a sweeping view. He began work on a trail known as Grand View, which was to lead to the Last Chance mining claims on Horseshoe Mesa, some four miles and 2,500 feet below the Rim. Berry soon transferred his interest, however, and together with Niles Cameron developed the most famous trail of them all-Bright Angel. The trail was constructed from a faint Indian path in 1890-91 and called Bright Angel toll road with tolls collected from all who used it. In places it was built solely of logs, anchored to the wall by chains, and scars of this original trail are visible from the more modernized route now in use.

Mules carried out the ore from the Berry-Cameron claims around Indian Gardens, the fore-runners of the famous animals that so safely transport thousands of visitors each year over the trails into the Canyon's depths. During this period, Joseph Gildner, a cook at the mining camp of these two trail makers, discovered the first cave within the gorge which geologists eagerly acclaimed since it provided additional study of the rock strata. Shortly after Bright Angel Trail was completed, Berry sold his franchise. In 1901 Ralph Cameron, one of the most outstanding figures ever to be associated with the Canyon's Passing Parade, bought out the original owners and continued to operate the trail as a tollroad. He also constructed a small hotel at the top of the trail to provide limited accommodations. After considerable political intrigue, the trail was finally declared the property of Coconino county and county officials continued it as a toll road. Following the creation of the National Park, extensive legal battles ensued before the trail was made public property and tolls discontinued. In June, 1928, this famous trail was finally obtained by the National Park Service.

When Berry sold his share in Bright Angel Trail in 1891 he returned to Grand View Point and completed that trail to the river. It was an efficient trail at that time,

Expanding operations. In a fertile spot within the Canyon, he had a garden and orchard which provided a welcome supply of fresh fruits and vegetables. Bass was the one to envision and carry out the first spanning of the Colorado river within the Canyon's depths. His energy and foresight were to provide an expedient route for early day travelers, afoot and horseback, who wished to cross from rim to rim and to save them the otherwise necessary hundreds of miles for a "dry" crossing at Lee's Ferry.

At the foot of his trail Bass had both a ferry to be used in low water and a suspended cableway during times of flood. With a cage capable of carrying one animal or a number of persons the cable crossing was quick and safe. Nevertheless it must have struck terror in many a brave heart, for the wires strung high above the current sagged alarmingly in the center as the cage rocked and swayed.

Bass, his mule, Joe, and inseparable dog, Shep, were favorites of all who traveled his way-not only the camp guests, those who used his trails and crossings, but the Havasupai Indians whose friendship he had earned with his first interest in the Canyon. "The greater part of his life was spent in exploring, studying and helping others to enjoy this place," wrote Mary G. Boyer about Bass in her book, "Arizona in Literature." This early host continued his camp until 1925 when he sold out to the Santa Fe Land and Improvement company.

While Bass had his own stageline, which could make the trip to Havasupai Point in eight or nine hours with four relays of horses, Sanford Rowe operated another livery service from Williams to the head of Bright Angel trail. Rowe's other interest were in mining, and his famous water tank on what was then called Rowe's Point, now Hopi Point, was not only an invaluable asset but a meeting place for old friends along the South Rim. When the Grand Canyon Forest Reserve was created, the chief ranger's station was located there.

Other transportation companies had quickly developed as tourist travel increased to the mighty chasm, and as early as 1889 it was revealed with great pride in The Arizona Champion at Flagstaff that on July 13 of that year twenty-two persons from various parts of the United States in company with seven from Flagstaff had made the trip. E. S. Wilcox was the efficient manager of the Grand Canyon Livery and Feed Stables in that town and in 1892 a tri-weekly schedule was permanently established. The sixty-five mile journey to Hance's camp on the South Rim required ten hours with three relays of horses and a noon-meal stop at Cedar Ranch, thirty-four miles north of Flagstaff. For the less hardy but equally inspired travelers, over-night accommodations were available.

From old photographs of those early days it seems the popular types of vehicles used for these trips were the regular four-horse stage and a buckboard-type covered wagon with similar trailer pulled by six horses. There was also an incredulous oddity brought into use for awhile-a double-decker stage that required eight horses.

In 1895 J. Wilbur Thurber and J. H. Tolfree, agents of the Grand Canyon stageline, took over Hance's hotel and trail and also secured the pioneer's agreement not to build more trails nor to serve as a guide into the Canyon. At this time there were four other improved trails, besides Hance's operating into the Canyon from the South Rim -Bright Angel, Grand View, Bass and Tanner. The Tanner trail, built in 1885, was named for Seth Tanner, a descendent of John Lee, and one of a group of men who constructed the route from Lipan Point to the river where it connected with Nankoweap trail built under Major Powell's direction. It was widely-known as "Horsethief Trail" since daring rustlers took advantage of this rim-torim route to drive stolen horses between Arizona and Utah with the river crossing made by swimming.

The North Rim wilderness during these days of rapid development on the South Rim was touched but lightly by the ingress of man due primarily to its inaccessibility from towns of any size. Along the rim area, however, there was already established a huge cattle operation known as the VT, run by Messrs. Van Slack and Thompson from Orderville, Utah. In 1890 this large VT herd was sold to the Grand Canyon Cattle company which used the Z Bar brand and centered operations around VT or DeMotte Park and Houserock Valley. The outfit continued a thriving business until the National Park was created in 1919.

While cattle roamed through the spacious Kaibab forest, hunters and trappers were also exploiting the natural bounty and prospectors were finding mineral deposits below the jagged rim. These claims were not developed to the degree of efficiency as those on the South Rim but added considerable weight to the glowing reports of gold, copper and asbestos wealth that created national interest during the 1890's. Mining in its development did much to focus attention on the Canyon and the subsequent reports of prominent persons who visited the area widened the knowledge of its grandeur.

In 1891 the International Congress of Geologists, directed by Major Powell, visited the South Rim following the group's fifth conference in Washington, D.C. Col. William Cody and a party of military men arrived the following year and included in their plans a trip across Bass' cableway for hunting on the North Rim.

From the paintings of Thomas Moran and the writings of John Muir, Charles F. Lummis of Century magazine and W. F. Clark of St. Nicholas magazine, all of whom visited the Canyon in the early 1890's, the glory of the mighty chasm as a tourist attraction reached people throughout the world. This early interest brought the first government action to preserve the natural setting of the entire section-the creation of Grand Canyon Forest Reserve by President Harrison on February 28, 1893. As early as 1886 the President, then a Senator from Indiana, had submitted a bill to Congress to make a national park of the lands on the southern border of Grand Canyon. At that time there was only one National Park-Yellowstone created in 1872-and political pressure continued for another thirty-three years to delay the progressive step toward the establishment of Grand Canyon National Park. Thus by the mid 1890's the pioneering era of earliest development at Grand Canyon had reached a full blown state of operation, and the robust trailblazers had established the facilities of travel and the accommodations for guests that had well advanced the growing spiral of tourists to the mighty chasm. By then new developments were in the near offing that were in some ways to displace these early and energetic enterprisers, but in others ways only served to enlarge the greater scope of their own visions for the future travel potential to Grand Canyon. Today these trailblazers ride at the very beginning, far out on the Western horizon, of the Canyon's Passing Parade.