THE SONOITA VALLEY

Sonoita Valley, near Patagonia in Southern Arizona, is unique in that it has an extensive wooded area in a normally arid region. Sonoita Creek, which flows through the valley, rises from springs located some eight or ten miles above Patagonia, to the north-east. The valley, which ranges from a half mile to a mile in width, starts here. Above this we find a higher plateau of level grass lands around the little town of Sonoita. The total length of this narrow valley lying between the Santa Rita Mountains to the north and the Patagonia Mountains on the south is about fifteen miles running from east to west. Here the stream flows into the Santa Cruz River. This valley has a fascinating history dating back to Spanish rule. Going back to the 17th and 18th centuries we find Spain wanted to protect a land route between Mexico and California across what is now Arizona. And the rulers proposed to do this by a Mission system across this great new region rather than with military might. Followers of southwestern history know that missions and visitas were founded under the leadership of Father Eusebio Francisco Kino. A visita, which was not a resident mission but received only occasional visitation by the Padres, was established at Sonoita in this valley. This visita was mentioned as early as 1699 in Father Kino's diary and was referred to as Los Reyes de Sonoitac. In some reports it has been written as Sonoidag. And the name was changed at least three times. In the Reyes report of 1772 another saint's name was used and the visita was referred to as San Ignacio de Sonoitac. Finally it was called San Jose de Sonoitac. English-speaking people have corrupted the name, probably because we fail to get the "ack" sound by placing the tongue in the roof of the mouth, so the name has been shortened to Sonoita. The visita was abandoned before 1784 but the name was still used for the area.

Several missions were established in the valley to the west along the Santa Cruz River. Guevavi, or Guebavi as it was sometimes written, near Calabasas was the oldest but now little is left to show its location. Tumacacori, farther north is a National Monument and San Xavier del Bac near Tucson has been restored and is used for worship.

The center of interest in Sonoita Valley is the year-long running stream starting from springs activated by drainage from the Santa Rita Mountains and fed by waters from the Patagonia Mountains. This is a stream which gurgles in early spring, hangs on tenaciously during the dry months which precede summer rains and sometimes in summer carries flood waters, particularly from heavy rains in the canyons which drain the Patagonias. Usually no serious damage results from these floods but sometimes the little stream can become a giant. Near the banks in shallow water the stream is green with water cress which people eagerly gather in spring. Trees arch gracefully over the water for most of its length. Underground water nurtures huge cottonwood, sycamore and ash trees along its banks. There are also hackberry, willow, walnut, mul-berry and mesquite trees. Elderberries, which I remember as shrubs in the mid-west, grow tree size here, some with trunks two feet in diameter and bearing fruit to be enjoyed by people and wildlife. The soapberry with its translucent amber fruit which is not edible, is also found. There are a few hedge or Osage orange trees probably carried in by flood waters or at least by some outside agent, which is also true of the mulberry. Live oaks cover the adjacent hillsides and grow to be ornamental trees in the canyons draining towards the stream.

The Indian tribes knew this area well. In 1700 it was estimated there were 500 natives living here, some driven from other areas through fear of the Apaches. To them it was a paradise with an abundance of water and game, with warm hill slopes and sheltered canyons for cool days, water and dense shade when the sun was overhead in summer. Their resentment of settlers coming in with herds of cattle is understandable. The present name, Patagonia, is derived from patagon, the word used by the Spaniards to describe the Indians of the region, meaning big people or by some interpretations big foot-prints or big feet.

The first land owner in the Sonoita Valley was Don Leon Herreras, a ranchero of Tubac who in the year 1821 was looking for new grazing lands for his herds of stock. Don Herreras had benefited by the far-sighted vision of Father Kino, the man who introduced domestic animals from Europe in support of his newly founded parishes. Fruit and grain were also introduced by Father Kino and it is very probable that Herreras planted these along the Sonoita since the land was fertile. We do know fruit trees flourished and grains were grown along the Santa Cruz River to the west in early mission days.

In asking for new lands Herreras petitioned the Commissary General of the Treasury, of the State of the West for two sitios of land near Sonoitac, said to be eight leagues distance from Tubac. A league in English-speaking countries being estimated at three miles would make Sonoitac about 25 miles distant from Tubac. The State of the West comprised at that time the present states of Sinoloa, Sonora and southern Arizona. Mexico became independent from Spain in this same year that Herreras was appealing for land, 1821. But the laws concerning grants of land remained about the same under the Mexican regime as they had under Spanish rule, the change just delayed the title. Land granted to one stockman was usually limited to not more than four square leagues. Don Herreras asked for two sitios of land and in June 1821 was granted one and three fourths sitios or about 7592 acres. A sitio equalled a square league containing roughly about 4338 acres. The land was valued at $60 per square league by appraisers since there was running water. Old records tell us that Herreras paid $105 plus the customary 18% tax for land fee, plus 2% for the general fund and a three peso fee to the royal treasury, which should remind us government taxes aren't a new thing. Don Herreras did not become owner in fact until four years later when title was issued to him in May 1825 by Juan Miguel Riesgo, Commissary General of Mexico for the State of the West.

For some thirty years after 1790 there was comparative peace in the valley. But in 1821 the Apaches began raiding the ranches and missions in the area and this made living on isolated ranches hazardous. Twice the Herreras family was driven from their hacienda on the Sonoita. How long they remained away each time is not known. For most of the land grants a proviso in the title stated that should the owner abandon the lands for a period of three years or more they would revert to the public domain but for some reason this proviso in the Herreras title read one year. A presidio was established in Tubac, the oldest Spanish settlement in Arizona, in 1752, and it may be assumed that the rancheros withtheir families fled there at times for protection from the raiding Apaches or to Calabasas six miles to the west where a garrison of American troopers was stationed later. Still later, in 1856, Fort Buchanan was established east of Patagonia but was abandoned in 1861. Then Camp Crittenden was set up in 1867. A roadside sign marks the site of the camp in the upper Sonoita Valley.

About 100 years ago, the Herreras heirs sold their interest in the lands to Joaquin Elias. A later owner was Matias Alsna whose claim wasn't approved for some years. In fact it took a Supreme Court ruling to settle his claim. The amount of land confirmed at that time was 5123 acres, or 2469 acres less than that granted originally to Don Herreras. Present owners of the Spanish Land Grant are Mr. and Mrs. Peter Lewis, with the exception of the Circle Z land which is owned by Fred Fendig.

Not all of the grant lies along the stream but it stretches back into the grassy hills. State Highway 82 drops down to Sonoita Creek about 15 miles northeast of Nogales. Coming from Nogales in spring we travel between grassy hill slopes until within about five miles of Patagonia where the road crowds into a canyon along the stream. Here we enter a new world, a green forest of new leaves of cottonwoods, ash, sycamore, walnut and other trees and shrubs which make a veritable park of the valley floor. A recent change in the road has marred this beauty somewhat and a scar will remain until nature has time to cover man's effects. The stream west from Patagonia for three miles is paralleled on both sides by roads. And here a road branches from Highway 82, crosses the stream by fording and extends north for some miles towards the Santa Rita Mountains. This road gives access to several ranches and mines to the north but is a dead-end road.

Patagonia is a quiet town, with striking views of mountains on two sides, at an elevation of 4050 feet. This is an altitude which makes for pleasant year round living in Arizona. Average rainfall is 17.3 inches. Summer rains begin about July 1st and these rains act as a check on high summer temperatures. A little snow may fall in winter but soon melts in a warm sun. No long range temperature records have been kept at Patagonia but according to records compiled since 1899 at Nogales, 18 miles to the southwest at 3800 feet elevation, the mean maximum temperature there is 79.4 degrees with the mean minimum 45.2 degrees. A high of 104 degrees may be reached in June, the hottest month, with an occasional low of 18 degrees in January.

The town of Patagonia has had its ups and downs, fluctuating with the mining activities surrounding it. Some $20,000,000 in ores have been taken from mines in the area in the past. Oldtimers claim that 100 years ago there were 350 mining claims within a fifteen mile radius of Patagonia. This was only a few years after the United States acquired this area from Mexico as part of the Gadsden purchase. Until recently two mines of The American Smelting and Refining Company, the Flux Mine and Mill, and the power plant at the Trench Mine were active, employing 125 men. But these were closed down in November 1957. With a population of around 850 people, Patagonia is the center of rich grazing lands and there are many large cattle ranches in the surrounding territory. There are two guest ranches in the valley, Rail X owned and operated by Mr. and Mrs. Walter Kolbe and Circle Z with Fred Fendig owner. The grade school sits on a hilltop overlooking the town while the newer high school building is at the east edge of town, near the Ranger Station of the Coronado National Forest. The Woman's Club sponsors a Library and their club house is used for community purposes. Three churches serve people of different faiths. Alert leaders guide the active 4 H club groups of boys and girls. The high light of the year for them being the annual 4 H Fair and sale where they realize profits from their labors in various projects. The scenery has appealed to Hollywood and scenes for some eight or ten movies have been filmed in the area. The present town council, with Edward G. Loftus as Mayor, boasts "there has never been a municipal tax levy, and none is contemplated."

At one time a railroad ran the length of the valley connecting the towns of Benson to the northeast with Nogales, via Patagonia and Calabasas. It crossed and recrossed the stream many times. A storm in 1929 washed out bridges and so the line was abandoned below Patagonia. Now the train whistle competes with the hum of the highway traffic only twice a week when a short train pulls into town from the east then returns the way it came. Mail by truck, and a bus line serve the community twice daily. The road from Patagonia over the Patagonia Mountains makes a scenic and interesting drive. Some of the old mine camps such as Harshaw, Washington Camp and Duquesne may be visited and at the other end is Lochiel, Port of Entry to Mexico. You may return by way of San Raphael Valley to complete the drive.

The raised abandoned right-of-way of the railroad is still a pleasant place for walking through the woods and along the stream, especially for those interested in Nature. There are no bridges, only the concrete abutments are left standing but they make good places to sit and watch the stream slide smoothly by or to watch for wildlife. In early morning or evening white-tailed deer, fox, coati mundi, or chulas as they are more often called may be seen. There are squirrels, jack rabbits, perhaps a bob-cat and in evenings the big Hooded and Hog-nosed skunks which won't hurt you at all. Mammalogists are quite interested in the Hooded since it isn't found far from the Mexican border.

The most accessible part of the woods, although privately owned has been used for many years as a public park by people of Southern Arizona. Populations are increasing so rapidly here that weekends and holidays find crowded conditions in these woods. During summer months there are literally swarms of people picnicking in the area extending three miles west from Patagonia and especially in the place popularly known as Blue Haven. Many car licenses are from Maricopa, Pima and Santa Cruz Counties, also many from Sonora, Mexico, across the border. And quite a few from more distant places have heard of this nice woodsy place with a running stream. Because of grazing and over-use by picnickers and litterbugs no new trees can get started and old ones die each year. The setting aside of a section of the woods which is so easily accessible, to insure proper supervision seems imperative if we are to have it to enjoy in the future. Rarely in desert country do you come upon a stream and a woods.