MOUNTAINS IN THE SUN

For driving, riding or hiking to the high places.

Most of the mountainous areas are within detached sections of Coronado National Forest. Booklets, maps and information may be obtained at the Supervisor's Office in the Federal Building, Tucson, and the superintendents of Saguaro National Monument, Tucson, and Chiricahua National Monument, Dos Cabezas, can furnish details about their special areas.

The southeastern corner of Arizona is high, averaging 4,000 feet to 5,000 feet elevation, and is pleasantly cool in summer. Interesting routes can be worked out between the different mountain ranges to include: San Xavier and Tumacacori Missions; the Mexican border towns of Nogales, Naco, Douglas and Agua Prieta; historic Tombstone; the new 20 million dollar open pit copper development at Bisbee; Old Fort Huachuaca, now a busy Signal Corps base; Aravaipa Canyon; ghost towns and vast cattle ranches.

The best times for visiting the high mountains, particularly if you camp, are from mid-May to early July, and again in September and October. Although the rainy season of July and August is perhaps the most enjoyable time of year in southeastern Arizona valleys, it is apt to be rather damp and chilly above 8,000 feet.

The following are thumbnail descriptions of the major mountain ranges.

The SANTA CATALINA MOUNTAINS rise directly north of Tucson. From town the all-paved Mount Lemmon highway loops up the south slope through fine stands of saguaro cactus, spectacular rock formations, and pine forests to Summerhaven, 7,600 feet. Here are lodge, cabins, store, saddle horses, and a small fishing lake. Along the highway are three Forest Service picnic grounds, improved campground, two summer home colonies, and the Palisade Ranger Station. Summerhaven can also be reached by a narrow, winding mountain road from Oracle, on the north side. Top point, Mount Lemmon, 9,185 feet, is now the site of an Air Force radar station and is closed to the public, but good trails lead to Bigelow Lookout, 8,385 feet, beautiful Marshall Gulch, and to Santa Catalina and Butterfly Peak natural areas. Sabino Canyon Recreation Area, 3,200 feet, on the lower south slope is sixteen miles from Tucson by paved road. It includes many shady stream-side picnic grounds in a rocky canyon. The Santa Catalinas are apt to be crowded weekends and holidays.

The RINCON MOUNTAINS, just east of Tucson, culminate in the broad, rounded summit of Mica Mountain, 8,700 feet. Heavily forested, the upper slopes are mostly within Saguaro National Monument, and can be A WINTER DAY IN SABINO CANYON" BY RAY MANLEY. 5x7 Linhof camera; Anscochrome; f.14 at 1/50th sec.; 8½" Symar lens; bright sunlight, 3:00 p.m. This picture was taken part way up Sabino Canyon Recreation area northeast of Tucson. Sabino Canyon offers the photographer good photographic subject matter in most all seasons. Occasionally it has been known to have snow in it in the upper levels, covering the fall colored leaves in a freak snowstorm in late November. A short drive to this beautiful canyon brings Tucson residents to beautiful picnic and recreation grounds.

reached only on foot or horseback. A twelve-mile trail climbs the south side of the mountains from Rincon Ranger Station to the picturesque Manning Cabin, 7,900 feet. Situated among pine groves and green meadows, this makes an excellent base for exploring the high country. Trails lead to Spud Rock, with panoramic views over Tucson and the desert, and loop over Mica Mountain to Spud Rock Ranger Station and back through a gap in the summit ridge. For the more ambitious there is trailless Rincon Mountain, 8,465 feet, five miles south.

The pointed peaks of the SANTA RITA MOUNTAINS are prominently outlined against the sky, forty miles south of Tucson. At Continental, on U.S. 89, a graded road branches east, thirteen miles, to Madera Canyon Recreation Area, 6,000 feet, with resort, lodge and improved camping facilities. A scenic six-mile trail leads to the sharp summit of Mount Wrightson, 9,432 feet, and Mount Hopkins, 8,572 feet. The Wrightson trail follows the main ridge north to Florida Pass, 8,000 feet, and descends precipitous Florida Canyon to Santa Rita Experimental Range Headquarters, twelve miles from Madera Canyon. Along the way are spectacular views and a fine forest of Douglas firs and pines. The strange, long-snouted coati mundi, Central American relative of the racoon, and the peccary or wild pig are sometimes seen in the Santa Ritas, Huachucas, and Chiri-cahuas.

With their south end over the line in Mexico, the HUACHUCA MOUNTAINS extend northward into Arizona for a distance of twenty miles. From State 92, along the east slope, short dirt roads lead into Ramsey, Carr and Miller canyons, from which trails climb to the divide. Miller Peak, 9,445 feet, may be ascended a steep, six-mile, forest trail from the road-end in Miller Canyon. In Carr Canyon a narrow, twisting road leads to the Reef, 7,000 feet, eight miles, and from there a delightful highline trail goes over the shoulder of Carr Peak, 9,214 feet, to Miller Peak, seven miles. Ramsey Peak, 8,751 feet, may also be reached from the Reef by a six-mile trail which drops into Ramsey Canyon and then climbs the headwall to the summit ridge. A twenty-five mile trail follows the tops of the Huachucas north from the road at Montezuma Pass, 6,500 feet, near the Mexican border, to Huachuca Peak. This pass is in Coronado National Memorial, established to commemorate the entrance of Coronado into Arizona in 1540. A grand circle drive through some of southern Arizona's finest cattle country can be made on fair dirt roads completely around the Huachucas, approximately seventy-five miles. This range is famous for mountain lion hunting, as are the Chiricahuas. Several guest ranches and motels are located along State 92 on the east slope. Historic Fort Grant and the sweeping grasslands of Sulphur Spring Valley from the Swift Trail on Mt. Graham

Miller Peak, highest point in the Huachucas In Rustler Park

HUACHUCA MOUNTAINS extend northward into Arizona for a distance of twenty miles. From State 92, along the east slope, short dirt roads lead into Ramsey, Carr and Miller canyons, from which trails climb to the divide. Miller Peak, 9,445 feet, may be ascended a steep, six-mile, forest trail from the road-end in Miller Canyon. In Carr Canyon a narrow, twisting road leads to the Reef, 7,000 feet, eight miles, and from there a delightful highline trail goes over the shoulder of Carr Peak, 9,214 feet, to Miller Peak, seven miles. Ramsey Peak, 8,751 feet, may also be reached from the Reef by a six-mile trail which drops into Ramsey Canyon and then climbs the headwall to the summit ridge. A twenty-five mile trail follows the tops of the Huachucas north from the road at Montezuma Pass, 6,500 feet, near the Mexican border, to Huachuca Peak. This pass is in Coronado National Memorial, established to commemorate the entrance of Coronado into Arizona in 1540. A grand circle drive through some of southern Arizona's finest cattle country can be made on fair dirt roads completely around the Huachucas, approximately seventy-five miles. This range is famous for mountain lion hunting, as are the Chiricahuas. Several guest ranches and motels are located along State 92 on the east slope.

The CHIRICAHUA MOUNTAINS are a large group, forty miles long and twenty miles wide in their broadest part, and they contain a rugged wilderness of forests, canyons, lofty ridges and amazing rock formations. The Chiricahuas are penetrated by several spur roads branching from U.S. 8o on the east and U.S. 666, to the west, and are crossed by two fair mountain roads. On the west side, in Rucker Canyon, is Rucker Lake, 6,000 feet, a popular trout pond with nearby improved campgrounds. Further north is Turkey Creek Recreation Area, 6,150 feet, with camp sites among oaks and pines in a 4,000-foot deep amphitheater under Chiricahua Peak.

Historic Fort Grant and the sweeping grasslands of Sulphur Spring Valley from the Swift Trail on Mt. Graham forests, canyons, lofty ridges and amazing rock formations. The Chiricahuas are penetrated by several spur roads branching from U.S. 8o on the east and U.S. 666, to the west, and are crossed by two fair mountain roads. On the west side, in Rucker Canyon, is Rucker Lake, 6,000 feet, a popular trout pond with nearby improved campgrounds. Further north is Turkey Creek Recreation Area, 6,150 feet, with camp sites among oaks and pines in a 4,000-foot deep amphitheater under Chiricahua Peak.

Trails ascend Monte Vista Peak, 9,373 feet, and Morse Canyon, connecting with the summit ridge trail. Chiricahua National Monument, on the west slope at the north end of the range, is reached by black-top State 181, thirty miles from U.S. 666. Locally called the Wonderland of Rocks, this seventeen-square-mile area includes a remarkable maze of fantastic rock formations eroded into an ancient field of rhyolitic lava. Beyond monument headquarters, 5,300 feet, the road ascends Bonita Canyon to Massai Point, 6,850 feet, on the summit ridge, where a startling view of jumbled rocks is spread out below,backed by distant valleys and mountains. North is the huge granite Indian profile of Cochise Head, 8,100 feet. Trails lead to Heart of Rocks, four miles, Echo Canyon, four miles round trip, and Sugarloaf, 7,308 feet, one mile. The National Park Service maintains excellent campgrounds in Bonita Canyon, picnic area at Massai Point, museum, and ranger-naturalist guided walks. There are also guest ranch accommodations and saddle horses for hire in the monument. Two miles west of the entrance, a winding mountain road leaves State 181 and follows Pinery Canyon to the summit ridge of the Chiricahuas at Onion Saddle, 7,700 feet. Three miles south is Rustler Park, 8,400 feet, a pine-rimmed meadow, with campgrounds and ranger station. An easy trail may be taken north to Buena Vista Peak, 8,820 feet, one-and-a-half miles, for an extensive view of the region. The summit ridge trail leads south through grand forests of pine, fir, Engelmann spruce and aspen, past a succession of flowercarpeted meadows to Fly Peak, 9,795 feet, four miles, Chiricahua Peak, 9,798 feet, eight miles, and Sentinel Peak, 9,490 feet, thirteen miles. Most of this high country is within the roadless 18,000-acre Chiricahua Wild Area. On the east slope the road descends colorful, 3,000-feetdeep Cave Creek Canyon to Portal. Cliffs, towers and pinnacles of buff, orange and pink latite rise hundreds of feet over the road. Fishing is fair in Cave Creek, and there are numerous improved camping and picnic grounds, and a small resort near Portal. In a beautiful situation beneath the towering cliffs of Cave Creek Canyon is the Southwestern Research Station of the American Museum of Natural History. Here, scientists come from all parts of the country to study the remarkable flora, fauna and geology of the area. Extensive but undeveloped Crystal Cave, 350-foot Sally Falls, and the trail to Silver Peak, 8,020 feet, five miles, are interesting. Rodeo, New Mexico, on Route 80, is eight miles east of eight miles east of Portal. In sheer bulk, Mount Graham, highest of the PINALEÑO or GRAHAM MOUNTAINS, is Arizona's biggest mountain, although not the highest. Rising 7,0008,000 feet above the Gila River valley, south of Safford, this range contains 400 million board feet of pine, fir, and spruce the largest and heaviest stand of timber in the southern part of the state. Seven miles south of Safford, the Swift Trail, a thirty-two-mile well-engineered, graded road, leaves U.S. 666 and climbs the shoulders of Mount Graham to 9,600 feet. It passes numerous picnic and campgrounds, and a small rustic lodge and store at Turkey Flat, 7,400 feet. Short side roads lead to Heliograph Peak, 10,028 feet, and Webb Peak, 10,029 feet, the second highest point in Arizona accessible by car. Both have Forest Service fire lookout towers commanding views over southern Arizona, western New Mexico and northern Mexico. There are improved campgrounds at Arcadia, Shannon Park, Hospital Flat, and Columbine, and a ranger station and summer home colony at the last point. The Grahams have an extensive trail system, and hikes may be taken to Mount Graham, 10,713 feet, four miles from Columbine or five miles from Hospital Flat; Grant Hill, 9,450 feet, one mile; the well-named Grandview Point, 9,500 feet, one mile; Clark Peak, 9,005 feet, one mile; and West Peak, 8,685 feet, six miles. Fishing is fair in Grant, Ash, and Marijilda creeks, and Frye Mesa Reservoir. Both the Grahams and Chiricahuas are ideal for three or four day knapsack trips. The famed Cochise Stronghold is in the DRAGOON MOUNTAINS, thirteen miles east of Pearce on Route 666. It is a Forest Service recreation area consisting of a jumble of granite rocks, rising 1,500-2,000 feet above oak-shaded picnic grounds. This was once the natural fortress of the Apache Indians, and their great chief, Cochise, is buried in the wilderness of upstanding rocks, but no white man knows where. In the GALIURO MOUNTAINS, north of Benson, is the incredibly rough Galiuro Wild Area of 55,000 acres, with knife-like peaks and ridges. Further north, reached from State 77 at Feldman, a clear perennial stream has cut a deep, narrow gorge completely through the Galiuro Mountains. Here is one of nature's superb hiding places-remote, littleknown Aravaipa Canyon, among the most beautiful in America. So, it can be seen that southern Arizona's mountain ranges are places of great variety and charm, which deserve to be better known. For these delectable sky islands provide a pleasant and easily accessible escape hatch from the increasing pressures of modern civilization.

RECEPTION IN BRAZIL:

My official work this year, on a United States government grant to Brazil as a Fulbright professor, has been to teach American literature at the Universidade de São Paulo. But beyond that, I have had the task of representing our country to this giant of South America; and ARIZONA HIGHWAYS has been an indispensable help.

So many Brazilian friends have been impressed with your magazine that I have given away my past-years' hoard. Given them gladly-for they serve as excellent ambassadors and bearers of good will.

By the way, we have been most interested to learn of the many resemblances between parts of Brazil and our West: from great mineral wealth to fearless leaders (here, the bandeirantes) who expanded national boundaries westward. Brazil's arid northeast possesses a climate like the ArizonaSonora desert, has produced a southernhemisphere cowboy (the sertanejo or vaqueiro) and inspired Brazil's most outstanding literary achievement: Os Sertoes (Rebellion in the Backlands) by Euclides da Cunha.

John Nist Fulbright Professor in American Literature Universidade de São Paulo São Paulo, Brazil

ZUÑI JEWELRY:

As most likely do all your regular subscribers, I look forward to each issue with enthusiastic anticipation. And, never has my enthusiasm been let down. This time I wish to make some comments on your August '59 issue.

Being a jewelry designer myself, Kathryn Sikorski's fine article, "Zuñi Jewelry," together with Josef Muench's superb camera work, was especially interesting.

Why some people refer to the Zuñi and Navajo jewelry as "native," I will never understand. There is nothing native about it if, by the use of that word, one is implying a feeling of naivete usually associated with it. Many of their pieces, worn under proper circumstances and with proper attire, would fit in with the "poshest" society. Fine jewelry is one of the highest of art forms, incorporating all the intricacies of design, sculpturing and color. Indeed, much of the Zuñi work more than fulfills these requirements and can take its place with pride among the beautiful jewels of the world. God is the Master Designer. If one looks to His works in nature for inspiration-as do these people-then I am afraid that my own creations of diamonds and gold and platinum are quite "native."

John B. Rowe Seattle, Washington

ADEE:

I was simply fascinated by your cover of the July issue of ARIZONA HIGHWAYS. The Blue Stallion was such a striking water color. I would like to know more about the artist.

Mrs. Tim Overholdt Tulsa, Oklahoma

BLUE PALOMΙΝΟ:

I have been overland and overseas a thousand miles or more, but I never saw a Palomino with a blue coat on before. (front cover, July issue) P.S. Love every issue.

Glenn Dolberg Broadcast Music Inc. New York, New York

IN NEW ZEALAND:

While in New Zealand last March I was shown a kitchen pampered with the most beautiful views from your magazine. This room belonged to the grandmother of our English speaking guide, a Maori, or aborigine of the country. Perhaps making better use of it than I who store mine away too precious to desecrate.

L. E. Gross Parsons, Kansas

OPPOSITE PAGE

"APACHE FALLS ON THE SALT RIVER" BY HUBERT A. LOWMAN "Brand 17"

4x5 View camera; Ektachrome; f.11 at 1/25th sec.; 5" Ektar lens; April; bright sun, late afternoon; ASA rating 12. Photograph taken on the Salt River, about one half mile upstream from U.S. 60 Bridge in Salt River Canyon. It is easy hiking and a worthwhile walk to park one's car at the north approach to the Salt River Canyon Bridge, then walk upstream along the north bank where a whole series of cascades and waterfalls await the photographer.

BACK COVER

"AN ARIZONA PASTORALE" BY JOSEF MUENCH. 4x5 Linhof camera; Ektachrome; f.8 at 1/50th sec. 6" Xenar lens; January; sunny day. These horses, gathered at a fence for a casual conversation, near a fine specimen of a Yucca flaunting last year's seedpods, were photographed east of Tucson in the foothills of the Rincon Mountains.

PIQUANT ARRIVAL

October heat Swept through the doorIn her most lush creation, Crashed the gate. BewitchingDrew all eyes' attention; Sure of her grand entrance, Arriving late.

A TIME WHEN

After living here for years, in the Southwest, Lines from books and readings from the skyThe love of sunshine and the yearning for rainBlur in the congealing mind to form a loose volume Of plates and impressions, footnotes and fables; Until feeling, not nimble recollection, Becomes a state of intelligence that will not again be broken down To dates and titles and first memories of sunsets, Or who came third, fourth, or fifth, tight in Spanish leather, To these wind-loose shores.

A time when, closer to dying, we become What once we strove to (memorizing) learn; Men buried too deep in living to set themselves Apart from history, for having drawn it, meaning by meaning, Into the attitude-like posture of the heart.

TALE OF THE OLD WEST

"He died in his boots," was the story that came. We said he was brave, and we honored his name.

"He died as he danced," came a still later word. We thought him quite dashing, and gay as a bird.

A man from those parts heard the tale and said, "NopeHe died as he danced at the end of a rope."

ALL A MAN MAY KNOW

He loved the walls he built of stone. He loved the river and its banks; Carved within the canyon's rim In solitude he offered thanks: Thanks for all he knew of earth Thanks for the gentleness of a doe Thanks for end of the long drought's pain Thanks for all a man may know. Thanks for the growing chant of life: Grief may come . but grief will go.

PROOF

If I could paint this sunsetScarlet bands across a turquoise skyAnd send my masterpiece back home, I know those skeptics would reply: "Such colors simply couldn't be-" "But wait," I'd say. "Come out and see."