CANYON CREEK

Of all the streams and rivers that pulse lifeblood through our great state, few share the vibrant moods and sharp courses of Canyon Creek. In a tumbling descent of some sixty miles, this crystal clear artery plummets nearly 4,500 altitude-feet before blending its waters with those of the Salt River.

The changing moods of Canyon Creek reflect the many faces of Arizona. Bursting from underground springs in the Mogollon Rim, it gushes through a dense forest of pine and fir, nicking the northeast corner of Tonto National Forest. Soon, it spreads out in a relaxed flow through fertile ranchland marked. by signs of early Indian days and cattle wars.

Then, the stream necks down for its entry into the Fort Apache Indian Reservation and a race between towering canyon walls that lean out to cool her lonely waters. Leaving the pine country, Canyon Creek flows by ancient Indian ruins and deposits of asbestos and turquoise.

As Canyon Creek nears its confluence with the Salt, the face changes with saguaros replacing junipers, and the rocky land grows bleached and barren under the hot desert sun.

This is Canyon Creek, and those who know her best return again and again to drink in the clean aromas of pine forests, to fish splendid trout water, or just to escape the crowds and wander about in a wonderland of Arizona beauty and contrast.

As Arizona streams go, Canyon Creek is an introvert that has chosen to remain aloof from the state's booming population growth. There are none of the resorts and fishing camps such as are found along nearby Tonto Creek, Canyon Creek has its birth in a secluded pocket scalloped out of the gently wandering Rim precipice. The pocket rises a thousand font above the headwaters to a crest of 7,500 feet, it is three miles wide and three miks deep.

Three principal branches form the headwaters of the streams. The middle and right forks carry the heaviest volume of water and contribute most to the perennial flow of the creek. The watershed is protected by heavy stands of Douglas fir, white fir, ponderosa pine and Mexican white pine. The forest Boor is carpeted with bracken fern.

Canyon Creek cuts a violent course in its first two miles tumbling over limestone bedrock in a series of falls and swirling eddies, resting only in the stillness of an occasional beaver pond.

Windfalls and heushy thickets have done their best to seal off the upper reaches of the stream, leaving the primeval forest much as it was before the first white settlers entered the region during the early 1870's.

Upper Canyon Creek is a veritable paradise for wild-life. The forest abounds in mule deer, whitetail deer, bear, bobcat and coyote. Beaver are plentiful, and their ponds are loaded with brown and rainbow trour.

The huge Rim pocket also contains one of the largest concentrations of wild turkey in Arizona. We've perched on the lip of OW Point at dawn and counted up to eighteen gobblers in the span of two hours time.

The majestic wspici elk especially savers the upper region of Canyon Creek. Years ago, it wasn't uncommon so sight fifty to seventy-five alk in a single herd, but the beautiful animal is currently on the decline and seeing a dozen elk is a care sight today.

Mountain Hons prowl about in the rugged splendor of Canyon Creak, and each year professional hanters xide in bringing the baying of lion hounds echoing through the mountains.

This is also one of the few areas of the state where the baki eagle is found. Another unique bird seen along the stream is the bandtaled pigeon which nests here in the aummer months, migrating to Mexico and South America in the winter.

As Canyon Creek emerges from the Rim pocket, the forest suddenly withdraws and the stream wanders out into the broad, peaceful valley of the OW Ranch. This is the only portion of Canyon Creek where civilization has made any marked impression on the face of the land The OW holdings, totaling approximately 150 acres, follow the course of the stream for about three miles. It represents the longest stretch of privately owned stream in the state of Arizona.

The ranch, which is owned by a group of Phoenix sportsmen, is steeped in history and lore of pioneer days below the Mogollon Rim. During the years 1887-92. the Pleasant Valley War engulfed the OW as it did much of the country between Holbrook and Mes. The ranch house property was then known as the Blevins place, although several other homesteaders also shared the valley.

Today, the remains of an old cabin can be seen slowly weathering away on the grassy slopes above the stream. Its notched gunports serve as a vivid reminder of days gone by when the sound of gunfire rang across the valley of the OW.

The OW Ranch area can be reached on a well-graded road that turns off the main route between Heber and Young (Arizona 288), three miles south of the Colcord

(Please turn to 9826)

A Photo Tour Of Canyon Creek

OPPOSITE PAGE "WHERE CANYON CREEK IS BORN" BY ROBERT B. WHITAKER. This spring is located about a mile above the Valentine Ridge road crossing on Canyon Creek. It is one of several crystal clear springs that feed a perennial flow of life into the stream. Three main tributaries burst from under the Mogollon Rim to form Canyon Creek one of the most scenic streams in Arizona. Rolleiflex E3 camera; Ektachrome; f5.6 at 1/60th sec.; 3.5 Schneider Xenotar lens; June; deep shadows on a bright day; ASA rating 64.

FOLLOWING PAGES "NEAR HEADWATERS OF CANYON CREEK" This scene is above the OW ranch property, near the headwaters of Canyon Creek. The closer one gets to the headwaters, the faster Canyon Creek appears to race through the heavy forest. The stream is difficult to fish here but rainbow and brown trout await the angler expert enough to cast a fly through the thick underbrush. Rolleiflex E2 camera; Ektachrome; f.9 at 1/25th sec.; 3.5 Schneider Xenotar lens; June; bright day, strong shadows; ASA rating 64.

"CANYON CREEK IN OW VALLEY" One of the beautiful pools on Canyon Creek in the picturesque Valley of the OW. An all-weather road that leads off Arizona 288 between Young and Heber winds down to this peaceful setting on the OW Ranch. The Arizona Game and Fish Department keeps this portion of Canyon Creek well-stocked with trout. Excellent fishing is a summer-long event. Rolleiflex E2 camera; Ektachrome; f.14 at 1/25th sec.; 3.5 Schneider Xenotar lens; June; bright day; ASA rating 64.

"VIEW OF OW VALLEY" A primitive road marked "OW Point" takes you out to this breathtaking panorama of the OW Ranch and upper Canyon Creek. The road turns off Arizona 288, on top of the Mogollon Rim. The broad green meadows of the OW are visible as is much of the land owned by the OW Ranch. A short distance downstream, Canyon Creek enters the Fort Apache Indian Reservation. The surrounding forest abounds in deer, wild turkey, elk and other wildlife. This part of the stream is reserved for fly fishing. Rolleiflex E2 camera; Ektachrome; f.16 at 1/60th sec.; 3.5 Schneider Xenotar lens; July; bright day, some cloud buildup; ASA rating 64.

CENTER PANEL "CANYON CREEK ABOVE OW RANCH" This is a typical scene on Canyon Creek above the OW Ranch. It can be reached by hiking up from either the OW Ranch road or Valentine Ridge road. Here, on upper Canyon Creek, the angler finds superb fly fishing water. Trout rise readily to the dry fly, and very often a rainbow or brown can be taken from each swirling eddy and fast riffle. Rolleiflex E3 camera; Ektachrome Pro; f.10 at 1/25th sec.; 3.5 Schneider Xenotar lens; June; bright day, some high clouds; ASA rating 64.

"ALONG CANYON CREEK" This scene was taken between the OW Ranch and the Fort Apache Indian Reservation. As Canyon Creek nears the boundary of the Fort Apache Reservation, it flows over a shelf of solid bedrock. Fishing is not so good in this particular stretch because the stream runs shallow with few pools or deep riffles. Rolleiflex E2 camera; Ektachrome; f.11 at 1/25th sec.; 3.5 Schneider Xenotar lens; June; bright day; ASA rating 64.

"CANYON CREEK AT RESERVATION LINE" This fence separates Tonto National Forest from the Fort Apache Indian Reservation. The Reservation line can be reached by hiking about two miles downstream from the OW Ranch road. After leaving the OW, Canyon Creek becomes a wilderness stream. Only a few primitive roads mar her natural beauty from here to the Salt River. Rolleiflex E2 camera; Ektachrome; f.16 at 1/60th sec.; 3.5 Schneider Xenotar lens; June; bright day; ASA rating 64.

"CANYON CREEK NEAR LOST TANK RIDGE ROAD" The photograph was taken near the Lost Tank Ridge road crossing of Canyon Creek. This rough road, which connects Arizona 288 with Cibeque and Grasshopper, is not recommended for passenger cars. Canyon Creek has left the dense pine forest and now enters a new life zone dominated by piñon, juniper, bear grass and prickly pear. The sounds of quail and band-tailed pigeon lend a plaintive note to the desolate region. Anglers who fish here are the secretive type who seldom discuss their success. Rolleiflex E2 camera; Ektachrome; f.14 at 1/60th sec.; 3.5 Schneider Xenotar lens; August; bright day, mid-morning; ASA rating 64.

"BEAVER DAM ON CANYON CREEK" This picture was shot below the OW Ranch. Such beaver dams are a common sight along the OW and Tonto Forest portion of Canyon Creek. Beaver help bring better fishing to Canyon Creek. Their dams create sizeable ponds for rearing trout and also trap the silt which occasionally washes into the stream. Rolleiflex E2 camera; Ektachrome; f.16 at 1/60th sec.; 3.5 Schneider Xenotar lens; June; bright day, but storm brewing above the Rim; ASA rating 64.

OPPOSITE PAGE "WHERE CANYON CREEK MEETS THE SALT" This is the confluence of Canyon Creek and the Salt River. The photograph was taken looking upstream toward Canyon Creek. A road winding fifteen miles from the base of Salt River Canyon crosses Canyon Creek three miles above the juncture. From here it is a strenuous hike to the mouth of the stream. Barren rocks, saguaro, and extreme heat greet Canyon Creek as she ends her lonely journey. It has been an odyssey of amazing contrast and wild freedom. As the stream meets the strong current of the Salt River, this untamed freedom is destined to be lost in the servitude of reservoirs and irrigation canals. Bronica-S camera; Eastman So125; f.22 at 1/125th sec.; Nikkor 75mm 2.8 lens; June; bright day, rain clouds building up to north; ASA rating 160.

LEGEND

(Continued from page 15) A Mountain junction, on the downhill side of the Mogollon Rim.

A sign marks the OW road which then winds down a steep ridge for five miles in a steady descent to the stream. A few hundred yards above Canyon Creek, a Forest Service camping area spreads out on both sides of the road. Although the site is unimproved, plenty of space is available for camping and parking trailers.

The Forest Service has a long range plan of development which includes a maximum of eight campgrounds near the creek. A recently constructed road twisting down Valentine ridge from Arizona 288 now provides access to a new camping area located above the OW Ranch and a short distance below the headwaters.

Canyon Creek is one of the finest trout streams in Arizona. The broad meadows of the OW are particularly well suited to fly fishing where room is needed for long back casts.

Recently, the Arizona Game and Fish Department, recognizing the growing need for areas reserved exclusively for fly fishing, focused their attention on the upper end of Canyon Creek.

A long series of meetings led to an agreement being reached last summer with the OW owners whereby all of Canyon Creek above the Indian Reservation boundary would be zoned off for artificial fly fishing only. Under the agreement, the OW Ranch will continue to permit public access to all but a one-mile stretch near the ranch buildings, and the Game and Fish Department will continue to stock the stream, principally with rainbow trout. This became effective September 15, 1962.

In recent years, campers and fishermen created such a serious litter and vandalism problem, that the OW owners threatened to close the ranch entirely to the public. It is hoped that the new agreement will bring a greater degree of sportsmanship and respect for private property to the valley of the OW.

As the waters of Canyon Creek leave the OW Ranch, the forest closes in once again. The canyon also becomes tighter, although it never boxes up completely like so As many northern Arizona streams. As one hikes toward the Indian Reservation line, the canyon walls appear to rise higher and higher, but this is just an illusion created by the narrowing of the canyon gorge. Suddenly, the creek makes a horseshoe loop to the right, and you come upon the boundary of the Fort Apache Reservation. The border is marked by four twisted strands of barbed wire strung across the stream channel. This is the last Canyon Creek will see of Tonto National Forest. From here on down, it becomes an Indian stream. The area around the Reservation line is one of the most beautiful in all of Arizona. Craggy outcroppings tower periously above the stream. The forest is dense and except for the chatter of grey squirrels, the squawk of stellar jays, and the clatter of an occasional deer crossing the rocky streambed, all is quiet and serene. Few fishermen reach this portion of Canyon Creek, and the riffles and pools hold some bruising-big brown and rainbow trout. In addition to a State fishing license, a special Fort Apache permit is required for fishing below the Reservation line. Fort Apache permits are available from the White Mountain Recreation Enterprises, Whiteriver, Arizona. Most retail business firms on the Reservation also sell permits, as do various resorts and sporting goods dealers throughout the state. A few miles on downstream, Canyon Creek flows across the Red Lake road. This is the first crossing since the OW Ranch. The Colorado Fuel and Iron Company, which is making iron explorations in this area, maintains the road from its western approach. A gate bars entrance to private vehicles where the road turns off Arizona 288; but the CF&I generally permit visitors to use the road if they obtain permission. The other end of this road comes through from Grasshopper and Cibeque on the east, but it is rough and not recommended for low-centered passenger cars. One of the most spectacular sights to be found along the upper portion of Canyon Creek are the so-called "pyramids," which are clearly visible from the Red Lake crossing. The pyramids are flat-topped limestone projections that look like stubby fingers groping toward the Cumulus-flecked sky.

As it continues losing altitude, Canyon Creek enters a new world of contrast, dropping into the Upper Sonoran life zone.

On the mesas overlooking the stream, alligator bark junipers grow in weedlike abundance, and piñon, oak and prickly pear dominate the hillsides and bottomland.

This part of Canyon Creek is easiest reached by taking the Lost Tank Ridge road, branching off Arizona 288 at a point a short distance below the Red Lake road and ten miles above Young. The rough five-mile jaunt along Lost Tank Ridge calls for a sturdy vehicle, preferably a pickup truck or jeep-type critter.

This is the third road to cross the wilderness stream, and by far the most primitive. It eventually bounces out near Čibeque.

There is no way to reach the Canyon Creek ruins except by horseback or strong set of legs. A primitive Reservation road parallels Canyon Creek on the east from the Lost Tank Ridge crossing almost to the mouth. It comes close to the stream at this point, permitting the most convenient approach to the ruins.The cliff dwellings date back to the late 13th and 14th centuries, and were probably built by migrating inhabit-ants rather than as an expansion of a local settlement. The migrations may have been stimulated by crop fail-ures, exhausted springs, scarcity of game, internal strife, or raids by predatory people. Perhaps these migrations came from the Little Colorado River drainage, where the people saw the Canyon Creek area as a paradise with plen-ty of water, game, and terrain suitable for natural defenses. The Canyon Creek ruins are in a picturesque setting.

There is lots of excellent trout water both above and below the Lost Tank road crossing that seldom gets fished. The stream here flows a lonely journey through desolate country far removed from the weekend picnic throngs. The only sounds of life are the whistling wings of doves and bandtailed pigeon, and the call of gambel quail.

After picking up Lost Tank Creek (dry) and Swamp Creek (dry), the giant ridge of 6,000-foot Canyon Butte looms up in the distance.

For the archaeologist, interesting signs begin to appear in the surrounding country. The land has all the environmental characteristics associated with ancient cliff dwell-ings. There are the high farming mesas, sandstone cliffs set back from the stream, and an ample water supply.

A mile below the mouth of Oak Creek, the truth of this archaeological appraisal is revealed, for there, one thousand feet above the stream, nestled in a secluded box canyon, are the aboriginal ruins of a large cliff dwelling, Montezuma Castle.

The canyon is broad and deep with sycamores, oak and walnut trees growing along the base of the cliffs and wherever depressions hold moisture. Cactus is profuse, and the canyon slopes are speckled with piñon and juniper.

There is evidence of a spring near the large house and grasses surely were in abundance for weaving baskets, sandals, and other necessities. Further signs reveal farming was a major enterprise of these people, although the rugged countryside must have made for difficult tilling.

The sandstone cliff overhanging the ruins is subject to ever-changing hues, as the sun turns it from fiery red to golden tan. The precipice itself rises 175 feet to an ele-vation of 6,000 feet. The ruin has been constructed in a crevice of the cliff, with the main dwelling apparently a two-story structure. The remaining rooms are scattered about the base and upper levels of surrounding cliffs.

No one has yet ascertained why the Canyon Creek pueblo people left, but indications are that they pulled up stakes around 1350 and abandoned the entire region.

Next on the scene were the Apaches, who still hold title to the land.

Continuing its solitary route, Canyon Creek flows through a land of wilderness desolation that becomes hotter and drier with each successive mile. The altitude drops below 5,000 feet, and the waters become marginal with catfish replacing brown trout. Now the bulk of Canyon Butte casts a morning shadow across the boulder-strewn stream, its green-fringed summit appearing cool and inviting under the burning sun. There is little to attract Indians into this arid region and, except for a few cattle grazing the rocky soil, civilization seems as distant as another planet. Lower Canyon Creek holds one of the richest asbestos deposits in Arizona. White tailings tell the story of venturous miners exploiting this prized resource from the fall dictates. During the spring months, a beautiful waterfall spills over a ledge near the crossing of Rock Creek. When this stream is running, the waterfall becomes an attraction worthy of a trip from Phoenix or other distant point to see. The tailings from the Regal asbestos mine on the distant side of the Salt help keep you oriented with the main channel in following the road west toward Canyon Creek. At long last, the trail snakes down toward the Canyon Creek ford. Seeing the semi-desert stream, it is hard to visualize that this is the same Canyon Creek that was born in the lush green forest of the Mogollon Rim. No more the pine-clad canyon walls, chill night air, and crisp trout water. The ponderosas and Douglas fir have yielded to the prickly spires of the saguaro.

surrounding mountains. Closer to its confluence with the Salt, there are signs of turquoise mining. Rockhounds will enjoy combing the nearby hills in search of the semi-precious stone. The extreme lower end of Canyon Creek is best appreciated by the wilderness adventurer who likes to strike out on isolated game trails through a primitive region of grotesque rock formations. To reach the lower end of Canyon Creek, you can take a road leading west off U.S. 60 at the base of Salt River Canyon. It follows the Salt River a distance of fifteen miles before crossing Canyon Creek approximately three miles above the juncture of the two streams. The road is in fairly good condition, winding through the magnificent scenery of lower Salt River Canyon. Rocky pinnacles, hundreds of feet high, look down on long pools and cascading falls. The only trouble spots for automobiles may occur in low areas where the road fords Cibeque Creek and Salt River Wash. Cibeque Creek is perennial, while the other two streams flow as rainfall dictates. At an altitude of 3,000 feet, the canyon walls are oven-hot in midsummer. The deep pools now are bathtub warm and filled with catfish and other warm-water fish. A high water line warns where frequent flash floods have scoured out the stream channel. It's a tough hike from the road down to the mouth of Canyon Creek. Giant boulders block off trails that never really existed, and more than once you find your-self up the deadend of a box canyon. This then is Canyon Creek, stream of crowded forest and barren cliffs, Indian ruins and lunker trout, whose lonely course through a primitive wonderland mirrors the many faces of Arizona. The only unchanging feature is the vastness and depth of her wild beauty. Today, Canyon Creek is one of the few wilderness streams left in our state and, since the rugged splendor of her foreboding canyon will not readily submit to the advancing tide of civilization, Canyon Creek is destined to remain for future generations as a haven of escape from the bondage of zoth Century civilization.